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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: arveno on June 07, 2016, 07:58:06 PM
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Hi All
I would like to buy a small welder for some small welds, nothing "PRO" but just to be able to welds brackets , do some small repairs etc.
I was looking around and I would like to get a Mig welder but i do not like the idea of having the shield Gas .
I then found out about the so called Flux core welder , no gas necessary .( I like it )
What is your thought ?
I am a very beginner....
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-90a-flux-core-welder.html
thanks
Marco
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I don't like flux core for quality welds. Get a MIG outfit if you can find a way to afford it. Maybe find a used kit?
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I'm not an expert but I'd strongly suggest MIG. Flux core is useful when it is windy, but otherwise MIG is far superior.
Rich A
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Have you tried out the fluxcore welder yet or had it demonstrated to you?
With your acknowledged skill level, MiG is really a better choice...if the gas expense is an issue, see if you can find a shop that will let you get in on their bulk order...
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Mig will give a better, cleaner, stronger weld than flux core. It took me a couple years but I saved up and bought a Hobart 140. Glad I did, using it to make saddlebag mounts now and the welds look just like factory with no slag or splatter and good penetration.
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Just been there on a welder purchase this spring.
The flux makes its own shield gas. That's the only good thing to say about it. That and flux gear is available at harbor freight. Aside from that according to everything I read and all the welders I talk to it's a waste of time and materials. I was easily talked out of it despite the attractive buy-in price.
You can get a hobby bottle of gas -- knee high. If you remember to turn it off after a burn it will last a long time the way you want to use it. Then you can do aluminum, steel . . .
I got a "Coplay" 200 refurb off of ebay for $400. It's a Miller clone. It will burn up to 1/4" with no problem. Economical to use (110/220 convertible), and with a spool gun does thin aluminum pretty well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/REFURBISHED-Coplay-Norstar-Dual-Voltage-Input-MIG-Welder-Package-M200-M-/181873723355?hash=item2a5884c7db:g:r8sAAOSwKIpV-r-~
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My strong preference is TIG, but you said you're a beginner, etc.. It would be a great idea to go to a welding equipment supplier that has welders set up for demo and get one of the guys to let you try MIG and TIG.
TIG is by far the most versitile of all the types. MIG's advantage is mainly speed, so it's great if you're going into production making boat trailers, for example. It is probably also easier to learn than TIG, although if you've ever welded with oxy-acetylene, TIG is a very easy step to take.
In my experience, once you commit to shielding gas, you're way better off getting a TIG setup, and there are some very reasonably priced TIG machines coming from the far east these days.
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I bought a Lincoln. I set it up to use flux core. It has done well for me.
I can add a regulator and the lines to it to convert it to MIG, but never felt the need.
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Thanks everyone for the feedback.
the only experience i have is with stick welding ( don't laugh lol ) that's why i thought the next step should be a Mig or fluxcore welder and make some experience.
I see that with a budget of around 300/400 bulks it's possible to buy a decent welder to begin with.
This one for example...http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-110vac-135a-output.html
what do you think ?
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There's nothing to laugh about with stick welding. If it were me, I'd stay with stick until I saved enough for a TIG setup. Stick really isn't much different from flux core wire feed when you get down to it, and you don't get more economical.
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Unless you weld a lot, there is no super huge advantage to the gas shielded wire. I have both and the flux core works just fine even if the gas shielded is a bit better to deal with. I also welded flux core and regular for years with Caterpillar and never saw a strength of weld difference.
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A 135 is very limited. Anything larger would be more versatile even at the home level.
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Flux core, it has its uses and can produce strong welds if cleaning, preparation are done correctly.
You are VERY limited with a 110v 90 amp welder.
Much better to save your money for something 220v and 175 to 200 amp.
The quality will be better, duty cycle will be reasonable and with practice you will be able to weld from 1mm through to 8 mm.
Plus when you decide gas is a better way to go, you have a quality unit to put it on.
Have a read through this site;
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/ , they also have a great friendly forum.
Read through that and find a welding course in your local area BEFORE you buy.
Welders are a bit like bikes, if you start cheap and small you out grow it very quickly or you try to get it to work beyond its capabilities.
That's my advice and I have oxy, stick mig and tig, I started with a small 140 stick welder and have been steadily working through bigger machines ever since.
Cheers
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Having been exposed to lots of welding (Pipefitter) for the last 24+ years, sporadic welding experience in the field and 1 year of weld classes in my Apprenticeship I can stick two pieces of metal together but can not do so efficiently or effectively. If you are not an experienced welder, are not going to dedicate many hours of practice, have someone to show you proper technique and will not be welding on the regular basses, take the money you think you'll spend on a weld rig setup and use that money to pay a welder when projects come up.
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Our community college offers welding classes so I took every one they had. Based on that I bought a MIG machine. Later I got TIG. Recently I got an inverter stick machine. Each has its advantages but all are pretty useless unless you get some instruction on how to use them correctly. I'd recommend at least 150 amp on any machine you get, 200 is even better. MIG is my first choice for the tinkering I do. In an hour I'm taking the stick machine out to repair a steel fence in a local park. Local welders charge $50/hour so not only is it handy to have your own machine, it ends up saving a lot of money too (that's my story and my wife believes it!).
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I bought a Miller 130 120 volt MIG 20 years ago...I've built several hot rods, and modified many motorcycles and general hillbilly repairs with the machine..It's fine for 1/8 inch steel.... A TIG has more versatility for sure and will make the very trendy "row of dimes" weld bead ....Bottom line is money and what you will really do with the machine...
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I bought a Lincoln 180c with gas regulator and the optional aluminum feed several years ago. It has the variable volt/amp rheostat rather than the fixed step control that comes in handy when welding sheet metal. I prefer the shielding gas as it greatly reduces splatter over the flux core wire.
The main selling point of the Lincoln is that I can get parts locally (never needed one), the higher duty cycle over the cheaper ones and the quality feed gun (important). Being somewhat a poor welder, I needed all the help I can get.
I could have bought a mig machine for half of what I paid for the Lincoln, but prorating the additional cost over 20 years or more, its not that much.
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I bought a Lincoln SP 100 over twenty years ago and fitted it with gas. Gas is so much cleaner than flux core I gave the flux core wire away. The time saved cleaning up the flux core welds alone is worth the price of the gas. I use a 70 series wire and it has proved to be very versatile.Thin sheetmetal to 1/8 in one pass. For heavy stuff I use the stick welder. Mike
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I will be buying a new welder soon as well. Have used stick for hobby stuff for 40 years. The only real downside to me is flux cleanup and splatter. Flux core has the same problem. I'd get another stick machine before I'd get a flux core.
I'll be getting a MIG outfit. It is night and day difference between flux or stick.
For most common stuff a high duty cycle and current/voltage is not a big deal. BUT...it limits you a lot. The minute you have a light machine you'll end up with several projects that need the higher capacity. Like a tow hitch for a truck :)
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so not only is it handy to have your own machine, it ends up saving a lot of money too (that's my story and my wife believes it!).
Same here. Ended up convincing her that a small oxy-acetylene setup would save me $$ too. :thewife:
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I got a baby 105 Amper years ago that came set up for flux cored welding but could be converted to gas if so desired.
Works OK for 90% of what I need to do.
However, I realised that my non fan cooled welder had the same casing as the fan cooled version and by happy coincidence I dismembered a microwave at some point and found that the fan in it fitted the mounting holes already in the welders casing.
Voila a fan cooled welder - doesn't help the amps but does improve the duty cycle
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I would chose MIG(MAG) as the first welder also.
I have a Migatronic 183 MIG and it has payed for itself many times over with car repairs and such. Also very easy to wip out and weld something quickly. I prefer to be able to do my own projects everything included and have a tendency to spend way more on tools than what would be reasonable for the project, but hey! the tools can be used for other projects right!? :grin:
I have Stick, MIG and TIG, and like Triple Jim I prefer the TIG welder above the others, but thats mainly because most of my private work is small stuff. Bigger stuff stick have the advantage IMO.
And don't laugh about stick welding.
From this:
(http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/yy237/Sandbergcal/P9183079.jpg)
To This:
(http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/yy237/Sandbergcal/P5300134.jpg)
99,99% of what you see here is done by stick welding.
It is a limestone mill capable of crushing more than 8000ton/day of raw limestone into powder , btw :grin:
My little work project :grin: you can see the scale by the worker in the blue on the bottom picture.
-Ulrik
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Oh and I forgot.
For technique and tips check out weldingtipsandtrick s on youtube, Jodi/Jody, have made a bunch of good videos to give you an idea on how to weld.
Might not be as good as a welding course, but it will get you started. I'm sure there a bunch of other guys making welding videos, but I like Jody's style of showing the actual puddle as he's moving along with the welds. Gives you a better idea of handcontrol/motions.
-Ulrik
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Speaking of tips and tricks.. I can weld very well (gas) *if* I can see the puddle. I don't know if it's my eyes, helmet, or what, but I have a very difficult time seeing the puddle with TIG unless it is on very heavy metal. Whatup wit dat?
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I don't know for sure, Chuck, but you may need more lens power at your eyes. I use 4 diopters over my "distance" lenses for welding, so I can get down to 8 or 10 inches from the work. I used to use the little clip-on, flip-up fly tying lenses you can get from places like Cabella's, but once I homed in on the lenses I liked, I got a pair of trifocals made for the purpose, with my distance lenses at the top, my normal bifocal lenses in the middle, and another +2 for the bottom lenses. Years ago I learned that for welding, I *have* to get my eyes down close to do good work.
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Thanks for that, Jim. Close vision is no problem. I have bifocal implants in both eyes, and I'm 20/15 at 12 inches or so.
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Hobby welder here, with a little Lincoln 140. Duty cycle is short, but I've never run afoul of it, by the time I get set up. things clamped, etc
Flux is great for quick and dirty jobs where looks aren't important.
Mig is much cleaner, but needs pretty still air... not an issue most of the time.
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Speaking of tips and tricks.. I can weld very well (gas) *if* I can see the puddle. I don't know if it's my eyes, helmet, or what, but I have a very difficult time seeing the puddle with TIG unless it is on very heavy metal. Whatup wit dat?
Speaking of which, for my next waste of money upgrade, I was thinking about getting an automatic darkening shield. Not being able to see the initial strike location is a pain.
Do those help?
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wow , this thread had more interest than i thought .
I am aware i should take some class and i will , soon.
I am not planning on become a professional welder but i like to be independent , like motorcycle maintenance , i tent to do everything myself.... i would like to be able to do some welding just for fun , hobby ..etc.
If i would need to weld a frame of something that will require a professional welder... i would pay someone to do it ( i know my limit ) but i like to learn new things.
thanks for the feedback
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Speaking of tips and tricks.. I can weld very well (gas) *if* I can see the puddle. I don't know if it's my eyes, helmet, or what, but I have a very difficult time seeing the puddle with TIG unless it is on very heavy metal. Whatup wit dat?
I was having problems seeing the puddle too. I got a variable-dimming helmet (9-13, whatever that means) I keep it down at 9 and I can see well enough when it autodarkens. At higher values I can't see anything.
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I was having problems seeing the puddle too. I got a variable-dimming helmet (9-13, whatever that means) I keep it down at 9 and I can see well enough when it autodarkens. At higher values I can't see anything.
A lot of guys use a bright light to help see the welding puddle...Sometimes mounted on the helmet... You may need to get it positioned just so to avoid the light causing problems with an auto darkening helmet...
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Speaking of which, for my next waste of money upgrade, I was thinking about getting an automatic darkening shield. Not being able to see the initial strike location is a pain.
Do those help?
Well worth it. I got one from HF and it works just fine. Tons better than 'flipping' the helmet.
Like above, get a good light on the surface so you can see more than just the arc :)
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Thanks for that, Jim. Close vision is no problem. I have bifocal implants in both eyes, and I'm 20/15 at 12 inches or so.
I just put on my trifocals and checked... my eyes are about 8" from the weld.
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For technique and tips check out weldingtipsandtrick s on youtube, Jodi/Jody, have made a bunch of good videos to give you an idea on how to weld.
Might not be as good as a welding course, but it will get you started. I'm sure there a bunch of other guys making welding videos, but I like Jody's style of showing the actual puddle as he's moving along with the welds. Gives you a better idea of handcontrol/motions.
^^^^ THIS ^^^^
I learned to weld by watching him and just farting around with a welder.
I first learned on a POS harbor freight welder and then went to the thermalarc 181i 3-in-1 welder that could do stick tig and mig. A very capable little machine, BUT... If you want to learn TIG I strongly suggest that you NOT go with that welder as it doesn't have a pedal and it's scratch start which almost invariably destroys the tip of your tungsten as it sticks to the project and breaks off. It's a great little mig and flux core welder though. I did a lot of field work running it off a generator and starting grass fires....
What you buy doesn't matter since pretty much all MIG welders can also do flux core. But for welder size I'll echo what others have said, you have to buy something that is going to be big enough to handle the kinds of projects you eventually intend to work on. You can't make a small rig weld big things, but you can make a big rig weld small things and you're best off spending the money now instead of spending more later when you realize what you have can't hack it.
I would start with flux core until you get the hang of the proper combination of wire feed speeds, amps and travel speed. Then move to gas. The first welds are invariably hideous and you're better off not wasting gas on that. You can make some very nice welds with flux core and it's especially handy when working outside in the wind on big projects. It's really fun when a blob of molten slag jumps off the project and goes down the back of your shirt!
If you want to have fun welding, by all means buy a TIG setup. It's the most challenging to learn, but also the most rewarding.
Oh and auto-darkening is the only way to go. I would always lose my spot when I used a flip down helmet.
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Call me a Luddite , but stick welding is still great . No issues with wire feeds getting jammed up , much easier to tailor for a given application , rod choices are almost infinite , and there is something cool about watching the rod as it joins the base metals together .
Dusty
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I was having problems seeing the puddle too. I got a variable-dimming helmet (9-13, whatever that means) I keep it down at 9 and I can see well enough when it autodarkens. At higher values I can't see anything.
The higher the number the darker the shade and more protection to your eyes. #9 is the lowest (least amount of shading) you should and still offer some level of protection to you eyes. Career welders when they have to rely on using #9 lenses are definately in the end stages of their welding career.
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Well worth it. I got one from HF and it works just fine. Tons better than 'flipping' the helmet.
Like above, get a good light on the surface so you can see more than just the arc :)
I had a a cheap auto darkening helmet for a few years.... I gave in and bought a 175 buck Jackson auto helmet...The difference is well worth the money for me...I do a lot of bike fabrication and the Jackson has a better field a vision and clarity while welding...
Right now I'm considering a TIG, looking at Hobart smaller AC/DC 240 volt machines....About $1200...
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Not sure which Jackson you mean, but definitely look at the Jackson Nexgen. It does a lot of useful stuff and is really good about not darkening for things like fluorescent lights, but always darkening when you need it to.
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Been teaching welding at the high school level for the past 36 years. This by no means makes me an expert just someone who has been around welding for awhile. Each process has its advantages and disadvantages. Mig is a process that will give you a pretty weld but if the settings are not correct it will look great but may not have any penetration. This process is used in fabrication inside where air movement can be controlled. Flux core is designed for continuous welding in an outside environment. Think building a skyscraper, the welds are done with with flux core at a quicker rate than with stick. You are not loosing time switching out rods. Tig welding while being more versatile than some of the other processes requires more skill and equipment. If you want to weld aluminum you will need a different shielding gas than if you are welding mild steel, along with with different filler rods depending what you are welding. This also holds true for mig, flux core and stick. The filler rod or wire or stick must match what you are trying to weld. No one process makes a stronger weld. If any weld is done properly the weld should be stronger than the base metal around it. As for the welding helmets the auto darkening style can make starting the arc easier simply due the fact that you can see where everything is right up to striking the arc. It should be noted that some people are sensitive to the split second of arc flash that gets through before the shield goes dark. Most of my students wear the auto darkening but every so often one of them just can't get used to them and has to use a regular helmet. The helmets that adjust the darkness, shade 9-13 allow you to have a shield for higher amperage welding. With 9 being the lightest and 13 being the darkest. Think more amps equals a brighter arc therefore a darker shield is needed. Hope this helps. I would say this is my two cents but with inflation it really is only worth one cent.
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Not sure which Jackson you mean, but definitely look at the Jackson Nexgen. It does a lot of useful stuff and is really good about not darkening for things like fluorescent lights, but always darkening when you need it to.
I have the Jackson Balder.....It doesn't darken when grinding and is good for Mig and Tig...
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Been teaching welding at the high school level for the past 36 years. This by no means makes me an expert just someone who has been around welding for awhile. Each process has its advantages and disadvantages. Mig is a process that will give you a pretty weld but if the settings are not correct it will look great but may not have any penetration. This process is used in fabrication inside where air movement can be controlled. Flux core is designed for continuous welding in an outside environment. Think building a skyscraper, the welds are done with with flux core at a quicker rate than with stick. You are not loosing time switching out rods. Tig welding while being more versatile than some of the other processes requires more skill and equipment. If you want to weld aluminum you will need a different shielding gas than if you are welding mild steel, along with with different filler rods depending what you are welding. This also holds true for mig, flux core and stick. The filler rod or wire or stick must match what you are trying to weld. No one process makes a stronger weld. If any weld is done properly the weld should be stronger than the base metal around it. As for the welding helmets the auto darkening style can make starting the arc easier simply due the fact that you can see where everything is right up to striking the arc. It should be noted that some people are sensitive to the split second of arc flash that gets through before the shield goes dark. Most of my students wear the auto darkening but every so often one of them just can't get used to them and has to use a regular helmet. The helmets that adjust the darkness, shade 9-13 allow you to have a shield for higher amperage welding. With 9 being the lightest and 13 being the darkest. Think more amps equals a brighter arc therefore a darker shield is needed. Hope this helps. I would say this is my two cents but with inflation it really is only worth one cent.
Thank you for your one Cent . :thumb:
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I will add another cent to tcunniens post.
Auto helmets are great IF you buy a quality one, one that darken in 1/25000th of a second or quicker.
Might/flux core would be my pick just because of its versitility and relative ease of use.
Welding is an interesting hobby, lots to learn, preparation, technique, metallurgy,safety.
Practice is the secret.
If you go flux core, you will need breathing protection, 3m make suitable disposable welding masks, use them.
Do a welding course, watch weldingtipsandtrick s.
A metal working course is also useful to bend up and manufacture things to weld.
Do your home work ask questions and get into it.
Enjoy.
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I have a Miller SyncroWave 180 SD, absolutely love it. I did gas before and stick, so it was quick to learn. I demoed several at the dealer during a demo show. This was years ago, and I still use it from time to time. Love the ability to do aluminum.
This box will also do stick, which I use a lot.
I wear reading glasses when I weld. Had a cheap HF auto helmet but it went south as it is now too slow to darken. I will take the advice from the experts here and get a Jackson.
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The trick for slow-to-darken lenses is to briefly close your eyes just as you start the arc. Not ideal, of course, but better than seeing a brief flash.
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Good thread here. :thumb:
I have had both gas and arc (180 amp continuous rated) for about 30 years. Both have their uses. The stick is great on thicker steel but on thin stuff, well, not so good.
I recently purchased a second hand but barely used 170 amp Mig/Tig/Arc BOC unit (rebranded Kempi) inverter unit. Have yet to use the Tig and Arc but the control with the stick is superb with the inverter. Hot start and then it backs off. Although it came with all the torches I will need to get a throw away bottle of Argon and a mini regulator for the Tig and an adaptor for the CO2 bottle that it came with.
As said previously, the Tig and Mig have their uses. However, as I am only doing steel of at least 1.5 to 2mm thick at this stage, I am happy with the stick as the control on this unit is superb.
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I don't know what you ended up buying, but I can tell you that once you've got a welder everything needs a burn. I spent $400 for mine in January, and at $1.00/bead it's already paid for itself. I just worked over the smoke house hinges, in a few seconds welding in place hardware that would have taken an hour or more to drill, tap, and screw. It's one thing after another.
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And if you have a 3" x 1mm thick cut off disk in a die grinder (for example), welds are no more permanent than nuts and bolts.
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And if you have a 3" x 1mm thick cut off disk in a die grinder (for example), welds are no more permanent than nuts and bolts.
That bit I find interesting Jim. First saw that setup when I worked with American guy. I had to specially buy in those 3" discs for him. It was a nice wee setup though. However, our engineers tended to use the 5" ones. Cutting speed was hugely superior to the 100mm and even the 115mm ones. (4" and 4.1/2") Price of the discs were about the same, speed and longevity way better.
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Friday I bought a Lincoln Square Wave 200 from the local welding supply. It AC/DC Tig and stick...it was 1700 bucks with an argon tank ,some consumables and tax...
I watched videos on U tube and have been practicing on scrap steel...It's more difficult than Mig and sort of artistic...but not very different from gas welding...
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That bit I find interesting Jim. First saw that setup when I worked with American guy. I had to specially buy in those 3" discs for him. It was a nice wee setup though. However, our engineers tended to use the 5" ones. Cutting speed was hugely superior to the 100mm and even the 115mm ones. (4" and 4.1/2") Price of the discs were about the same, speed and longevity way better.
I also use the larger ones in an angle grinder when necessary, and get decent life out of those. Are you saying the 5" ones cut the fastest? I do know that the faster you can run any of them, up to the maximum on the label, the better they work and the longer they last, and the 5" size has the advantage when it comes to surface speed, at least until they wear down to 4-1/2". :grin:
Friday I bought a Lincoln Square Wave 200 from the local welding supply. It AC/DC Tig and stick...it was 1700 bucks with an argon tank ,some consumables and tax...
I watched videos on U tube and have been practicing on scrap steel...It's more difficult than Mig and sort of artistic...but not very different from gas welding...
I'm sure that the more you use TIG, the more you'll like it. I'm glad I'm not the only one who sees the similarity to oxy-acetylene. :cheesy:
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I'm sure that the more you use TIG, the more you'll like it. I'm glad I'm not the only one who sees the similarity to oxy-acetylene. :cheesy:
It's a learning curve and the hardest part for me is maintaining a close distance to the work and not getting the tungsten electrode into the puddle...You know, then it's contaminated and need to grind a new point on it... :wink:
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You probably know, but some guys use the ceramic cup to maintain the distance, sometimes known as "walking the cup".
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If you're real familiar with the 4.5" grinding wheels on those little angle grinders, be very careful going to a 5" wheel. That blade is spinning closer to your hand than it used to . . .
I buy the 5's when I can find them, but they're not real popular around here. I have one grinder that is slightly longer than a standard Makita and it spins a 5" pretty good. I don't put them on my short ones though. I never know who might pick it up and have their hand in the wrong place.
I find flapper disks undo a lot of my welding damage. Right now I buy a pound of flappers per spool of wire. As I get better I hope the ratio improves.
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I find flapper disks undo a lot of my welding damage. Right now I buy a pound of flappers per spool of wire. As I get better I hope the ratio improves.
ROFLMAO Someday I'll get better too :)
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I also use the larger ones in an angle grinder when necessary, and get decent life out of those. Are you saying the 5" ones cut the fastest? I do know that the faster you can run any of them, up to the maximum on the label, the better they work and the longer they last, and the 5" size has the advantage when it comes to surface speed, at least until they wear down to 4-1/2". :grin:
Correct. Surface speed. The three sizes all use basically the same spindle speed; the disk material from 5" to 4.1/2" is basically free, or at least only a few cents.
When I was working in the retail side of an engineering firm there was a guy who had a 4" grinder I sold disks to. I advised him that when it blew to get a 5" for the reasons mentioned. Bumped in to him a couple of years later when I was up there on holiday and he mentioned that he had done precisely that, and he could not believe the difference in performance and cost effectiveness.
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I run my 3" disks on an air die grinder that spins pretty darned fast, so maybe that's why they cut fast and last a while.
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You probably know, but some guys use the ceramic cup to maintain the distance, sometimes known as "walking the cup".
So the electrode is flush with the cup? Does that hide the puddle or cause any other problems?
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Not flush, you hold the torch so the tungsten is an an angle, not 90 degrees to the work. Do a search for "walking the cup" and you'll come up with a lot of information and videos about it.
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So the electrode is flush with the cup? Does that hide the puddle or cause any other problems?
You prop the cup on the work piece or some other kind of aid to give yourself a fulcrum, once you have the angle right, all you do is move the torch back and forth and the tungsten will never touch the puddle (in theory).
Something I learned from Jody and weldingtipsandtrick s is to always use a gas lens diffuser instead of just a regular tip. It shields way better and that way you can work with your tungsten more exposed without it burning up. Handy if you're trying to get into a tight corner, or if your torch plain sucks like mine did.
If you're cheap or in a pinch I've heard of some people cutting some green scotchbrite to the diameter of the cup, putting it in the cup and then shoving the tungsten thru it. Voila, DIY diffuser.
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Angle? At the welding supply shop I got some tips from a very experienced welder. Several U tube videos by welding "celebrities" also stressed the less angle is better........He said several times to only angle the torch enough to see the puddle. ... 90 percent of my welding is tubing joints exhaust pipes, small brackets , stop and go welds and out of position work..
At any rate, it would be simple to rig a guide on the torch to keep a proper distance from the work...But it might be best for me to take the time to learn the hard way first ...
EDIT, I watched a few "walking the cup" videos... it appears to be technique used in situations such as filet welding on large pipes for example..
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Walking the cup is just a technique I mentioned after you brought up difficulty in keeping the tungsten out of the puddle. I don't normally use it. For long, straight welds on tricky material, specifically when I'm welding 2-stroke expansion chamber seams (20 ga. mild steel or 22 ga. stainless), I use a guide I made that clamps to the side of my welding table and supports my torch hand, letting me slide it along the guide. It's a fusion weld, so I can steady the torch with my other hand too. It takes the shakiness away so I can make a pretty weld.
As you said, you can rig up whatever it takes for the job. There isn't one technique for everything.
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I often MIG weld with two hands on smaller stuff for better accuracy... My latest LSR bike frame is ready for finish welding so I'll try the TIG on it...
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I use CO2 for my MIG at home, much cheaper than an argo mix. I got an alloy dive tank for nothing, had it retested and filled. I can't afford a shield gas tank, but you can use dive bottles, even fire extinguisher tanks for CO2. I've been repairing a rusty JD mower deck at home, the CO2 has been working just fine.