Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Socalrob on October 21, 2017, 02:27:03 PM
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So how much do I have to work with and what is reasonable. Any path to increased alternator output?
Will changing over headlight and tail lights free up some amps?
I'd like heated grips, heated jacket, driving lights, and GPS. Will my V7iii drive all that?
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As long as the driving lights are LED, more than likely. My V7's have no problems, but they are both the older alternator versions. Work out the current draw, at night on high beam with e very thing blazing..
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So how much do I have to work with and what is reasonable. Any path to increased alternator output?
The stated alternator output capacity is 268 watts @ 12 volts, or just over 22 amps. Measure the existing load through the 30 amp fuse (fuse F) with the alternator temporarily disconnected. Work out what you have left, and load up accordingly.
LED lights will help reduce the total current drain. Dunno about heated jacket (don't you live in California?), but heated grips will only ask for a couple of amps maximum. GPS negligible, driving lights buy what the bike can take.
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Yeah I was gonna say convert head and taillights to led and use extra amps for heated accessories.
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Yeah I was gonna say convert head and taillights to led and use extra amps for heated accessories.
That's what I do.
I've got LED head and tail lights on my both my V7's ('14 Special, '13 Racer). The Special has heated grips, plus I run a heated jacket, and, if it is really cold, heated gloves (but not the heated grips at the same time). On the racer, heated jacket + gloves. I've never had a problem with the alternator keeping up with the gear on either bike.
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Hey Kev can you give me the bulb detail for the LED conversion, is it just bulbs or additional parts required? Thanks. Andy
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With regard to the tail light, I found a 2 pack of Sylvania bulbs for 20 bucks at O'Reileys. Direct 1157 replacement. Nice and bright with a good contrast between the tail and brake light. So, if you need one, you end up with a spare.
As mentioned, any additional lighting can be LED's.
If your bike does not have a volt meter somewhere in the dash menu, I would suggest using a volt meter to "manage" your usage. Likely at speed, you can run what you want. In town you might need to turn down the heat or something. That is what I refer to as managing your power. On my EV's, I would usually turn down my heated gear in town to keep the voltage where it belongs. Once out on the road and up to speed, (3K rpm's), I would turn it back up.
You can do what you want. You just need to be prudent of your power consumption.
John Henry
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Hey Kev can you give me the bulb detail for the LED conversion, is it just bulbs or additional parts required? Thanks. Andy
I haven't bothered on the V7, but John just gave you the right idea on the tail light and I'm sure Jay can answer on the headlight.
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I forgot to add, make sure the tail light LED is RED! The red lens will filter out anything else. (Do NOT use a white bulb.) It will be labeled on the pack.
John Henry
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I have ADVMonster "Mesh Monster" H4's. They have been replaced the H4 Rev 3. I don't know if the H4 Rev 3 will fit the V7's headlight bucket. I think that they may be a little longer.
http://stores.advmonster.com/h4-r3-led-headlight/ (http://stores.advmonster.com/h4-r3-led-headlight/)
The ADVMonster "Native H4", but, from what I've read, the beam isn't as good.
http://stores.advmonster.com/native-h4/ (http://stores.advmonster.com/native-h4/)
I had an early Cyclops H4 in my V7 Racer a while back. It was fine for "being seen", but, the low beam cutoff sucks. Their current products are a lot better. I have their H7's in my F800GT, they're very good.
I haven't tried their current H4 offering however, and don't know if it will fit the V7 headlight bucket.
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Socalrob
Be aware : If the alt. is a permanent magnet type putting out about 250 watts , then what ever don't get used will have to be burned off by the Rectifier . If the standard load is : 55 watts head light , 8 watts tail light , blinkers , horn , dash lights , ignition system , and etc . all add up to 150 watts , the Rectifier will be burning off about 100w. you know how hot 100w light bulb is . If you go ALL- LED then you'll be burning off 150-175 watts ... and you'll either relocate the rectifier or burn it up.
Keep-up with the numbers and save your-self some heart ache down the road ! :grin:
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Great advice all.
Thanks.
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Socalrob
Be aware : If the alt. is a permanent magnet type putting out about 250 watts , then what ever don't get used will have to be burned off by the Rectifier . If the standard load is : 55 watts head light , 8 watts tail light , blinkers , horn , dash lights , ignition system , and etc . all add up to 150 watts , the Rectifier will be burning off about 100w. you know how hot 100w light bulb is . If you go ALL- LED then you'll be burning off 150-175 watts ... and you'll either relocate the rectifier or burn it up.
Keep-up with the numbers and save your-self some heart ache down the road ! :grin:
No, false. That's not how regulators work. The rectifier/regulator simply drops enough voltage to get the voltage to the correct range. If the load is lighter, the current (Amps) is Lower, and there is less power actually being dissipated in the regulator. Power dissipated is the voltage drop multiple by the current. Yes, the voltage drop may be a little higher for lighter loads, because the output voltage of the alternator will be higher, but, not that much. That is, of course, assuming a linear regulator. If it is a digital regulator, then even less power is disputed, as digital regulators use PWM (pulse width modulation) to control the voltage.
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With regard to the tail light, I found a 2 pack of Sylvania bulbs for 20 bucks at O'Reileys. Direct 1157 replacement. Nice and bright with a good contrast between the tail and brake light. So, if you need one, you end up with a spare.
These for the taillight:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CO1F31I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm using this bulb in the headlight of my Convert:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M3V9J5Z/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You might also consider a "purpose built" LED headlight such as those made by Truck-Lite and JW Speaker.
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_154&products_id=5025
(http://www.mgcycle.com/images/atrex/10740452_01.jpg)
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Jas
Fact is :
if you want lower wattage out of a alt. then you either have to reduce the magnet force or reduce the field of that is trying to catch the magnet .
When your dealing with a permeant magnet ... their ain't no changing the force a "Permeant Magnet" puts out.
The Stator is also a fixed quantity of coils ... So , unless the regulating gismo can remove and add coils as the load changes , Then the OUT-PUT can not change .
Now , if you have an Electro Magnet that has brushes to connect with the rotating magnet , then you can lower the power of the magnet or raise the power of the magnet as you need to.
So ,
Does Guzzi use :
1. Permeant Magnet
2. Electro Magnet
????? :undecided:
I was under the impression Guzzi uses a Permeant Magnet .... So , tell me which is it ? :undecided:
Moto Guzzi v7 Classic alternator stator rotor , Don't look like a Wound Rotor to me ???
(http://thumb.ibb.co/feveWR/Alt.jpg) (http://ibb.co/feveWR)
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Socalrob
Be aware : If the alt. is a permanent magnet type putting out about 250 watts , then what ever don't get used will have to be burned off by the Rectifier . If the standard load is : 55 watts head light , 8 watts tail light , blinkers , horn , dash lights , ignition system , and etc . all add up to 150 watts , the Rectifier will be burning off about 100w. you know how hot 100w light bulb is . If you go ALL- LED then you'll be burning off 150-175 watts ... and you'll either relocate the rectifier or burn it up.
Keep-up with the numbers and save your-self some heart ache down the road ! :grin:
I don't think this is quite correct as far as the guzzi goes
The earlier series regulators just left the SCRs turned off when the battery is full no power is consumed.
If it's a shunt type they short the alternator out when the battery is full, contrary to what you might think this reduces the power output of the alternator
When it's shorted sure you get some higher current but the Voltage is zero 22 Amps x 0 Volts = 0 Watts
The worst thing you can do with one of these alternators is partially short them because then you have high current and Voltage
The earlier Honda Goldwings had 3 connections at the back of the gearbox where the alternator wires plugged into the loom, these would get corroded creating resistance
allowing the Voltage to build up when it was shorted and the stator would burn out.
The fix was to chop out the connections and solder the wires thus ensuring a solid connection.
So make sure any connections in the yellow wires are in good shape.
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How do we know if the V7 regulator is Series or Shunt?
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2013_V7_Series.gif
If you were to monitor the yellow wires with your meter on the AC range
On a series regulator you should see spikes of high Voltage as the battery gets fully charged
On a shunt regulator I suspect you would never see more than 16 to 18 Volts
This might give you some odd results on a multimeter, you really need an oscilloscope to show what's happening
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The stated alternator output capacity is 268 watts @ 12 volts, or just over 22 amps. Measure the existing load through the 30 amp fuse (fuse F) with the alternator temporarily disconnected. Work out what you have left, and load up accordingly.
LED lights will help reduce the total current drain. Dunno about heated jacket (don't you live in California?), but heated grips will only ask for a couple of amps maximum. GPS negligible, driving lights buy what the bike can take.
Most multimeters have a maximum current range of 10 Amps so how are we to measure up to 22?
Easy, make a simple shunt out of a short length of copper wire, lets say 12" and measure millivolts drop across two points a certain distance apart.
Just bare 2 spots of insulation near the middle and touch or jamb the meter leads between strands
2.9" for #16
4.5" for #14
7.7" for #12
This distance will give you 1 millivolt per Amp, if you want better resolution use a longer wire and bare spots at 29", 45" or 77" this will give you 10 millivolts per Amp
Once again the meter leads need to be an inch or two from where the current connector is made or you get extra millivolts from the joint.
Using a #12 shunt you can easily measure the starter current, about 180 Amps for a big block Guzzi, just don't do it for too long that's all or the wire will heat up and you will get some error due to the increase in resistance. Sorry I don't have any metric size wire but I can easily show you how to work those out as well.
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The ADVMonster "Native H4", but, from what I've read, the beam isn't as good
I run two Natives in my Quota, work great.In fact cars will flash their high beams if I leave them on high beam
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Jas
Fact is :
if you want lower wattage out of a alt. then you either have to reduce the magnet force or reduce the field of that is trying to catch the magnet .
When your dealing with a permeant magnet ... their ain't no changing the force a "Permeant Magnet" puts out.
The Stator is also a fixed quantity of coils ... So , unless the regulating gismo can remove and add coils as the load changes , Then the OUT-PUT can not change .
Now , if you have an Electro Magnet that has brushes to connect with the rotating magnet , then you can lower the power of the magnet or raise the power of the magnet as you need to.
So ,
Does Guzzi use :
1. Permeant Magnet
2. Electro Magnet
????? :undecided:
I was under the impression Guzzi uses a Permeant Magnet .... So , tell me which is it ? :undecided:
Moto Guzzi v7 Classic alternator stator rotor , Don't look like a Wound Rotor to me ???
(http://thumb.ibb.co/feveWR/Alt.jpg) (http://ibb.co/feveWR)
What you say is true about VOLTAGE, not POWER.
So, you're saying that the rectifier regulator would be dissipating the full output capacity of the alternator under no load? It would burn up quickly for sure. But, that's not how it works.
I don't have time today, but, can do a test. Assuming the all R-R's work the same (I have an aftermarket one now on my both my V7s), if I measure the temperature of the heatsink of my R-R with and without the additional load of heated grips, gloves, and jacket, given the same ambient condition, the R-R should be cooler with the additional load if you're correct, and warmer if I'm correct.
BTW, being an electrical engineer, I have a pretty thorough understand of the various types of voltage regulators and how they work.
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I run two Natives in my Quota, work great.In fact cars will flash their high beams if I leave them on high beam
I was referring to their low-beam cutoff. No doubt that their bright, but, is the low-beam cutoff enough to not glare oncoming drivers?
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Most multimeters have a maximum current range of 10 Amps so how are we to measure up to 22?
I'm not suggesting you will need a meter that will read up to 22 amps, just one that will measure the existing current which will be less than 10 amps. Then do the subtraction to see how much is still available. Personally, I wouldn't run anywhere near the stated capacity, but I'm saying there's plenty available for what Solcalrob wants to do.
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Most multimeters have a maximum current range of 10 Amps so how are we to measure up to 22?
https://www.amazon.com/Extech-MA120-Clamp-Current-Detector/dp/B000BEZV5O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509306473&sr=8-3&keywords=clamp+on+dc+ammeter (https://www.amazon.com/Extech-MA120-Clamp-Current-Detector/dp/B000BEZV5O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509306473&sr=8-3&keywords=clamp+on+dc+ammeter)
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41NKK2BF48L.jpg)
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Jas
That would be a good experiment . :cool:
One of my Nephews (GXR? 750) burnt the RR out on his bike , put another one on and with-in 10 miles burned the new one up too. Well , they are over $100.oo. So , before he put another one on he came asking me , "Whats going on"
After him telling me all about the LED lighting his and his buddies had installed and how cool they were ... I knew what the problem was . Yea , the problem is : Those LED's are too Cool , and the excess electrons are going to the RR to find their way back to ground. His problem was solved when he ... Re-installed his original head-light .
This last summer I hosted a bunch of friends from all over the country to mid-Tn. for a week . Well , one of them was having the same problem as my nephew had . First couple of days he had to borrow one of my other bikes because his New RR had burned up (again).
He had done the same thing that Nephew had done ... LED's every where he could put one ... thinking the alt. having to do less = more power to the rear wheel ...
I could see : if the stator coils were not connected to anything (just open-ends) , then the alt would have "0 (zero)" output .
So , if a regulator was to "open and close" connection to the fields (stator coils) then you could regulate the output ,
but that would be a really big load to put on a PNP or NPN chunk on silicone ... :undecided:
I've only got a Tech. School 18 month degree in electronics , and don't claim to know everything , but I though I understood how RR's work.
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Jas
That would be a good experiment . :cool:
One of my Nephews (GXR? 750) burnt the RR out on his bike , put another one on and with-in 10 miles burned the new one up too. Well , they are over $100.oo. So , before he put another one on he came asking me , "Whats going on"
After him telling me all about the LED lighting his and his buddies had installed and how cool they were ... I knew what the problem was . Yea , the problem is : Those LED's are too Cool , and the excess electrons are going to the RR to find their way back to ground. His problem was solved when he ... Re-installed his original head-light .
This last summer I hosted a bunch of friends from all over the country to mid-Tn. for a week . Well , one of them was having the same problem as my nephew had . First couple of days he had to borrow one of my other bikes because his New RR had burned up (again).
He had done the same thing that Nephew had done ... LED's every where he could put one ... thinking the alt. having to do less = more power to the rear wheel ...
I could see : if the stator coils were not connected to anything (just open-ends) , then the alt would have "0 (zero)" output .
So , if a regulator was to "open and close" connection to the fields (stator coils) then you could regulate the output ,
but that would be a really big load to put on a PNP or NPN chunk on silicone ... :undecided:
In the 1960's and 1970's, having enough load was critical has, some bikes didn't even have voltage regulation.
In the case of the CB77, aka 305 Super Hawk, there is a signal from the headlight switch to the alternator that boosts output when the headlight is on. If the bulb is blown, it is possible to over volt the tail light and blow it too.
As for the GXSR, that should be a modern enough solid state regulator that too light a load shouldn't be a problem. The whole point of a voltage regulator is to regulate the voltage regardless of load.
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Jas
I hope your right and we can put all the Heated gear we want on a V-7 , with out concern of overloading the charging system OR under loading with LED's .
I don't know how much a replacement RR is (and hope never to be forced to find out :laugh: )
You stated you have after-market RR's on your bikes ...
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You stated you have after-market RR's on your bikes ...
The OEM units on the early 1TB models were spec'd to run high (up to 15 volts was considered "normal") and many were found to be charging at rates even higher than that so many of us have replaced them with aftermarket units the charge at a more acceptable low to mid 14's.
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The OEM units on the early 1TB models were spec'd to run high (up to 15 volts was considered "normal") and many were found to be charging at rates even higher than that so many of us have replaced them with aftermarket units the charge at a more acceptable low to mid 14's.
This got me thinking that I should check the output on my V7-III Stone. Happy to say that it was charging around 14.2 volts @ approx 3,000 rpm. Griso 1200SE gave a similar result.
Just for giggles, I checked the cage, a Holden LS3 6.2 liter V8 (similar to a Chev SS sedan). It read over 15 volts at idle, wasn't able to rev the engine while observing the voltmeter easily. But it sounds a little high according to this conversation. Should I get it checked properly?
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as I would also like to add heated grip to my system, I also like to test my amp allowable.
You mentioned disconnecting the alternator...I can't see to find in the manual on where the alternator is connecting TO...perhaps a picture would help?
Don't feel like to randomly pulling stuff apart without knowing what to look for...
my is a V7 not, a III...wet alternator...
not sure if it would make any difference...
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It's unlikely to make any difference if the alternator/rectifier is connected or not. I was just suggesting in case there was a destination for the battery current to dissipate to. Probably a couple of milliamps at most.
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I'm not suggesting you will need a meter that will read up to 22 amps, just one that will measure the existing current which will be less than 10 amps. Then do the subtraction to see how much is still available. Personally, I wouldn't run anywhere near the stated capacity, but I'm saying there's plenty available for what Solcalrob wants to do.
Sorry, I thought you were, anyway someone might want to measure higher.
https://www.amazon.com/Extech-MA120-Clamp-Current-Detector/dp/B000BEZV5O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509306473&sr=8-3&keywords=clamp+on+dc+ammeter (https://www.amazon.com/Extech-MA120-Clamp-Current-Detector/dp/B000BEZV5O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509306473&sr=8-3&keywords=clamp+on+dc+ammeter)
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41NKK2BF48L.jpg)
The Hall Effect meters must be coming down in price, this one is ~$100, they used to be prohibitive
zzthis type of meter can be made more sensitive by putting more turns through the jaws
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This got me thinking that I should check the output on my V7-III Stone. Happy to say that it was charging around 14.2 volts @ approx 3,000 rpm. Griso 1200SE gave a similar result.
Just for giggles, I checked the cage, a Holden LS3 6.2 liter V8 (similar to a Chev SS sedan). It read over 15 volts at idle, wasn't able to rev the engine while observing the voltmeter easily. But it sounds a little high according to this conversation. Should I get it checked properly?
It's funny. So like I said Guzzi seems to have specifically spec'd a VR that is considered in spec up to 15V.
And some research suggested that there are many batteries (most dry/gel cells) that tolerate that or even benefit from it, but only for a certain amount of time.
When this came to light and I tested and was surprised at the output I'd already had my bike for 3.5 years and maybe 10-12k miles and I seemed to have no other symptoms.
Todd at GT was stirring up the villagers with tales of fried ECU's or CPS's.
The only thing I suspect is that maybe it's shortened my battery life because now at 5 years old it takes significantly longer for the battery tender light to go to blinking green than it does my wife's 7 year old Duc!
So I dunno... What does Holden or their battery supplier say?
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I haven't asked. Previous experience says I'll hit a brick wall. And the model is now obsolete, last one rolled off the assembly line a few days ago. No more RWD Commodores. Did I say I detest front wheel drive vehicles?
But I'm feeling more comfortable about the 15v charging after a bit of research.
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But I'm feeling more comfortable about the 15v charging after a bit of research.
What, you mean the ECU isn't going to automatically fry?!? ( end sarcasm ).
Yeah I was surprised it wasn't completely black and white. But it didn't seem there was any negative to replacing our regulators with something that held it to low or mid 14's. And, well, it seems like a lot of our regulators were ABOVE 15 anyway... If only by a fraction.
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I never had any worries about the electronics frying due to the 15V that the VR on the V7's were putting out. I was only concerned about the battery life.
Electronics are usually concerned with a pretty good safety margin on input voltage. 15V is only 7% higher than 14V. Now, if the voltage were 20 volts or higher, electronics would probably start to fry. Certainly the light bulbs would be burning out, or at least very short lived.
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It will make a difference because with the alternator connected it takes the load directly what's passing
through the fuse is charging/dis-charging current
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2013_V7_Series.gif
If this drawing is correct just unplug the yellow wires between stator and regulator while you test it.
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It will make a difference because with the alternator connected it takes the load directly what's passing
through the fuse is charging/dis-charging current
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2013_V7_Series.gif
If this drawing is correct just unplug the yellow wires between stator and regulator while you test it.
But only if the motor is running, right?
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It will make a difference because with the alternator connected it takes the load directly what's passing
through the fuse is charging/dis-charging current
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2013_V7_Series.gif
If this drawing is correct just unplug the yellow wires between stator and regulator while you test it.
Correct me if I am wrong, the flywheel in the diagram is the alternator?
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But only if the motor is running, right?
Yes, you are right, without the motor running there will only be a milliamp or 2 going into the regulator.
The headlight on my Griso only operates while the motor is running, it goes out if I press the kill switch (I'm new to the bike there may be a trick to turn it on) That's why I said unplug the alternator.
The V7 appears to have the same Light Logic Relay setup, I assumed it would be the same and you would need the light on while you do the test, it would be no use measuring fuse F as you wouldn't know how much the alternator was adding so just unplug it.
Note: I don't have a V7 to play with I'm just reading the schematic so take what I say with a grain of salt LOL
Correct me if I am wrong, the flywheel in the diagram is the alternator?
Yes item (31)
The charging circuit is rated at 268 Watts but that's at 3000 revs, if you are in stop and go traffic I doubt you will get much more than 100 average, but you soon learn and crank the heat down to match.
You are in Southern California aren't you?
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Actually I am just north of Seattle
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Actually I am just north of Seattle
Ok, I can forgive you asking about heated gear then LOL
It can get pretty miserable when the wind is blowing off the snow
I rode down there for a show one January, the wind blowing across the fields was numbing, I had a heated vest by the time I rode back again
As I said earlier the bike will handle the gear just scale it back when running under 3000, if you have a Voltmeter that is useful also.
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Ok, I can forgive you asking about heated gear then LOL
It can get pretty miserable when the wind is blowing off the snow
I rode down there for a show one January, the wind blowing across the fields was numbing, I had a heated vest by the time I rode back again
As I said earlier the bike will handle the gear just scale it back when running under 3000, if you have a Voltmeter that is useful also.
LOL...thanks...
ya...body I can bundle up, but man, fingers sometimes frozen and usually it when you need to clutch in and brake LOL...
Ya, I got a Voltmeter gauge that I am going to add onto the bike as well while I am doing other things to it...
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Re V7iii Alternator Output Update
Since last posting I purchased a new V7, the alternator output is definitely on the low side, it will handle a pair of gloves or grips but if you want to run a vest be prepared to
turn it down or off a few minutes before you stop otherwise it will not crank.
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Re V7iii Alternator Output Update
Since last posting I purchased a new V7, the alternator output is definitely on the low side, it will handle a pair of gloves or grips but if you want to run a vest be prepared to
turn it down or off a few minutes before you stop otherwise it will not crank.
Hi, folks.
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I'm currently looking at purchasing a V7 III for my wife (new rider), and it will be important for her to be able to run both heated grips and a heated jacket liner. My initial plan will be to do as others have suggested, and substitute LED lighting in order to gain capacity, but I'm wondering if there is a better/additional way? On my V85TT, there apparently is logic built into the integrated grip controller to turn the grips off (temporarily) when the bike is running at less than 2000rpm. This got me thinking. What I'm wondering is if one of our resident electrical experts could weigh-in on the practicality of creating a standalone circuit that could be used to supply electrical gear, and that could modulate power based upon engine RPM, alternator output, or, likely more easily, current battery voltage? That way, whenever we find ourselves in that in-town, slow-speed mode, this circuit could just turn the heat down until full alternator output resumes. Thoughts?
I'm aware of the Oxford Battery Saving Mode, which is a good (if sometimes confusing) feature that monitors battery voltage and turns off the grips if voltage drops below 11.5 volts (or if it senses that the engine is not running). However, this seems more targeted at situations where a person forgets to turn the grips off when they stop riding, and I'm wondering if something a little more proactive (maybe at 12.0v) and dynamic (variable, not just a simple shut-off) would be practical? My hope is that something could be devised using standard electrical components without needing to get into complex microprocessor-based controls, etc.
Anyway, just a thought I'd ask if anyone had any thoughts on the subject.
Cheers,
Shaun
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I have my V7III setup to ride year around.
I have a Girbing Vest and gloves,
LED headlight (the OEM one draws too much) and two 10 Watt driving lights.
Most essential is a Voltmeter otherwise for sure I would be draining the battery requiring a push start.
The system will just maintain the load when its spinning over 2,000 revs.
With the Voltmeter if I see the Voltage dropping below 12 (typical at the lights) I shed some load.
And of course when the key is turned off its essential to shed the heating load.
I have my Voltmeter connected across the city light.
https://www.amazon.com/DAIERTEK-Voltmeter-Waterproof-Universal-Terminals/dp/B08D1QNH6G/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&keywords=Automotive+Replacement+Voltmeter+Gauges&qid=1636319002&s=automotive&sr=1-12-spons&ts_id=15729811&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFBWDAwTk1QUFNGOFUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5NDIwNTcyQjNFMzM0R1Y5UERHJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0NDc2MDMxTTFMNVRQNUVWQjZGJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
This type is not waterproof.
https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Display-Voltmeter-Waterproof-Motorcycle/dp/B078LVLHNF/ref=pd_bxgy_img_1/135-3489330-4859034?pd_rd_w=66vwq&pf_rd_p=c64372fa-c41c-422e-990d-9e034f73989b&pf_rd_r=05FKGPNT0S0XXX0FPKP9&pd_rd_r=4c89314e-62b0-40a5-9c06-e86b61786a9d&pd_rd_wg=ReNi2&pd_rd_i=B078LVLHNF&psc=1
These small Battery Voltmeters come really cheap $3 - $10 so buy several, they only read from about 8 - 24 Volt because they use the two wires to also power them up, some aren't waterproof but you can pour some 2 part epoxy into them to make at least shower proof, I think green or blue is better than red as far as visibility.
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I have my V7III setup to ride year around.
I have a Girbing Vest and gloves,
LED headlight (the OEM one draws too much) and two 10 Watt driving lights.
Most essential is a Voltmeter otherwise for sure I would be draining the battery requiring a push start.
The system will just maintain the load when its spinning over 2,000 revs.
With the Voltmeter if I see the Voltage dropping below 12 (typical at the lights) I shed some load.
And of course when the key is turned off its essential to shed the heating load.
I have my Voltmeter connected across the city light.
https://www.amazon.com/DAIERTEK-Voltmeter-Waterproof-Universal-Terminals/dp/B08D1QNH6G/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&keywords=Automotive+Replacement+Voltmeter+Gauges&qid=1636319002&s=automotive&sr=1-12-spons&ts_id=15729811&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFBWDAwTk1QUFNGOFUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5NDIwNTcyQjNFMzM0R1Y5UERHJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0NDc2MDMxTTFMNVRQNUVWQjZGJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
This type is not waterproof.
https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Display-Voltmeter-Waterproof-Motorcycle/dp/B078LVLHNF/ref=pd_bxgy_img_1/135-3489330-4859034?pd_rd_w=66vwq&pf_rd_p=c64372fa-c41c-422e-990d-9e034f73989b&pf_rd_r=05FKGPNT0S0XXX0FPKP9&pd_rd_r=4c89314e-62b0-40a5-9c06-e86b61786a9d&pd_rd_wg=ReNi2&pd_rd_i=B078LVLHNF&psc=1
These small Battery Voltmeters come really cheap $3 - $10 so buy several, they only read from about 8 - 24 Volt because they use the two wires to also power them up, some aren't waterproof but you can pour some 2 part epoxy into them to make at least shower proof, I think green or blue is better than red as far as visibility.
Thanks, Roy. I added a Gammatronix voltage monitor to Stelvio, and found that it worked very well.
https://gammatronixltd.com/epages/bae94c71-c5b6-4572-89a1-e89006e78fbe.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/bae94c71-c5b6-4572-89a1-e89006e78fbe/Categories/Category1
I'm planning to add one to the V85, and will likely do the same with the V7 when we get that. They're waterproof and intuitive, and I especially likely the periodic flash to indicate status when the key is off. I always leave the bike on a tender, so it works well for me. I also think their prices are very reasonable for what you get, although not as inexpensive a those you listed.
Cheers,
Shaun
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Hi, folks.
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I'm currently looking at purchasing a V7 III for my wife (new rider), and it will be important for her to be able to run both heated grips and a heated jacket liner. My initial plan will be to do as others have suggested, and substitute LED lighting in order to gain capacity, but I'm wondering if there is a better/additional way? On my V85TT, there apparently is logic built into the integrated grip controller to turn the grips off (temporarily) when the bike is running at less than 2000rpm. This got me thinking. What I'm wondering is if one of our resident electrical experts could weigh-in on the practicality of creating a standalone circuit that could be used to supply electrical gear, and that could modulate power based upon engine RPM, alternator output, or, likely more easily, current battery voltage? That way, whenever we find ourselves in that in-town, slow-speed mode, this circuit could just turn the heat down until full alternator output resumes. Thoughts?
I'm aware of the Oxford Battery Saving Mode, which is a good (if sometimes confusing) feature that monitors battery voltage and turns off the grips if voltage drops below 11.5 volts (or if it senses that the engine is not running). However, this seems more targeted at situations where a person forgets to turn the grips off when they stop riding, and I'm wondering if something a little more proactive (maybe at 12.0v) and dynamic (variable, not just a simple shut-off) would be practical? My hope is that something could be devised using standard electrical components without needing to get into complex microprocessor-based controls, etc.
Anyway, just a thought I'd ask if anyone had any thoughts on the subject.
Cheers,
Shaun
I think as long as you turn it off when the engine is stopped you will be ok, even at idle the alternator almost manages to hold its own, its when you turn the motor off and the heat is left on that it really takes a dive in a matter of a few minutes, with a Voltage readout its easy to see if you are getting into trouble. Pick up a signal after the kill switch so if that or the key is off the heats off. You want to keep it simple.
Check out the bluetooth 2 channel controllers that Girbing sell, you can put that under the seat or plastic side cover and mount the controls on the bars, makes for a neat and tidy installation.
I don't have heated grips but use heated gloves on the second channel.
I glued the controller to the side of the air-box under the LH side cover.
The first one overheated and burnt out, I now have a tiny fan keeping it cool and seems ok.
(https://i.ibb.co/v17mFys/DSCN0510.jpg) (https://ibb.co/v17mFys)
The bluetooth unit has an internal battery, it didn't work very well here, too much metal.
I now have it out by the LH mirror where it works much better, you can also see my Voltmeter.
(https://i.ibb.co/41v40FL/DSCN0505.jpg) (https://ibb.co/41v40FL)