Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Aldo on March 01, 2019, 08:21:42 PM
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So, as per my previous thread, was able to get my hands on a very nice, original '75 Convert. I've been enjoying it so far, but I think I would find it more to my liking with the 'civilian' style handlebar, vice the braced 'police' bars it currently has mounted. In an effort to keep it original, I like to swop to a Civilian convert bar and keep the original switches and wiring.
The question I have is, how difficult is it to move the switches and internal wiring from one bar to the other? The switches don't appear to be easily removed, and I am a bit worried they could break apart in the process (even though they appear as new and work just fine). Are there any tricks to removing the switches and the internal wiring and moving the assembly to another handlebar?
Ideally if I could find a civilian handlebar to swop with all the switches and wiring still on it, that would be ideal...but that seems to be an unlikely scenario.
Thoughts?
(https://i.ibb.co/zh8shXb/IMG-20190301-200712901.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zh8shXb)
(https://i.ibb.co/j55Mmx0/IMG-20190301-200703270.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j55Mmx0)
(https://i.ibb.co/YW2TRjr/IMG-20190301-200650260.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YW2TRjr)
(https://i.ibb.co/mSQs92n/IMG-20190218-102950626.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mSQs92n)
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It's really not that difficult, but it is time consuming - you need to work slowly to avoid damaging the switches and/or wiring.
First thing you'll need is a Molex pin extractor, this is the type I use:
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31x9DpQSoeL.jpg)
Then it's a matter of carefully sliding the switches off a little, carefully fishing the wires out through the opening under them, repeat. The wires are taped together inside the 'bars, so you usually can't fish them out one at a time. A small hooked tool will help ease them out. Lubing the heck out of the wires with silicone spray will help too.
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FWIW I have a set of original switches carefully removed from a 78 T3. Needle nose pliers will work to compress the Molex tabs so the wires can be removed from the plugs and bars...
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FWIW I have a set of original switches carefully removed from a 78 T3. Needle nose pliers will work to compress the Molex tabs so the wires can be removed from the plugs and bars...
The tool I showed also works on the sockets, something needle nose pliers won't do.
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Thanks for the replies, gents. When I get some time on my hands I will try to tackle this project. I take some pics of the moles before I move forward with it so I can recall where all the wires go. Hopefully the switches stay intact during the process!!
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I've said it before and I'll say it again (not that anyone cares): Those braced bars are the most comfortable upright-riding bars I've ever used, liked them so much on my old Convert, I swapped a pair onto my Cal 2. Every man has his favorites.
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I've said it before and I'll say it again (not that anyone cares): Those braced bars are the most comfortable upright-riding bars I've ever used, liked them so much on my old Convert, I swapped a pair onto my Cal 2. Every man has his favorites.
One of my converts had the civilian bars and I had to put a pull back riser on them brcause my back hurt.I like the police bars better.When I put after market switchgear on, I run the wires out side in a vinyl sleeve. Much better imho.
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"Different strokes for different folks". The braced pullback 'bars make me feel like I'm running a rototiller, not riding the Guzzi. :wink: Seriously, all 'bars of that type place my wrists at an awkward angle and they start to ache before long. Civvy 'bars for me.
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Convert/i-XJDF42W/0/abecf9dc/M/20180916_154330-M.jpg) (https://relic.smugmug.com/Convert/i-XJDF42W/A)
These were on my recently acquired Convert and they did not work for me. I'm short and have short arms I suppose and not only was I reaching for them, I found them too narrow. The fact that I'm hacking my bike also plays a role as I needed something wider with more leverage.
I have just replaced them with some 850T3 bars that I purchased from Frank Wedge. Plus I added 2" risers/bar backs. And although I haven't ridden it yet, (due to the 3 feet of snow we have) sitting on the bike they feel "right".
I'd part with these but I don't know for sure what they are. And I'm in Canada so shipping won't be cheap. It cost me about $25 US to get my new bars here from Kansas.
Ken
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This thread really drifted . the original poster was talking about switches and such. Handlebar configurations are a different discussion .
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This thread really drifted . the original poster was talking about switches and such. Handlebar configurations are a different discussion .
Yep, sorry about that.
But he did say that he'd like to find someone who would swap civi bars with switches for his. And I'm offering my civi bars without switches for the cost of shipping.
Ken
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Yep, sorry about that.
But he did say that he'd like to find someone who would swap civi bars with switches for his. And I'm offering my civi bars without switches for the cost of shipping.
Ken
Thanks, it's all good. I do have a set of good handlebars that are very close to the Civilian Convert bars that I drilled for the job. Took me several hours to remove the switches and all the wiring out of the police bars and then into the new 'civilian' bars. Biggest pain in the ass ever, IMHO....but I got it done, and the switches still work a charm.
I just need to take some pics of the finished work.
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Thanks, it's all good. I do have a set of good handlebars that are very close to the Civilian Convert bars that I drilled for the job. Took me several hours to remove the switches and all the wiring out of the police bars and then into the new 'civilian' bars. Biggest pain in the ass ever, IMHO....but I got it done, and the switches still work a charm.
I just need to take some pics of the finished work.
Glad you got it done. Cool that you've still got the original switches on the bike and they work.
Enjoy!
Ken