[Wirespokes] has my old Bassa - Please support him

[Huzo]

Huzo, The TB setups are different. Simular, but the linkages are different and there is no TPS reset in the ECU. The EV's had a TPS that was adjustable, you can loosen the securing screws and turn the TPS.  Norge/Stelvio, not adjustable.

BTW: Nice work on the test rig!

Thank you!
Tom

No worries.
I knew they were different, but not where and how.

[wirespokes]

Much food for thought! Thank you guys.

The idea of the sacred screw had me afraid to touch anything - but once I had the right video/instructions it wasn't too bad. No sacred screws on this bike. I think this is the newest Guzzi I want to fool with - unless I convert back to carbs. And I may just do that. The earlier carb bikes are sooooo much simpler!

I actually find it pretty easy pulling back the TPS connection and inserting two safety pins in the outer terminals, then reading the Mv from there. However, I'll give it another try with 11 and 22 at the ECU.

The last time I adjusted the TPS, I backed it down to about 425 mv to bring the idle down. It runs well, but pops sometimes at low RPMs when backing off, or even a steady throttle. But mostly it's running better and runs strong too. Since the intake manifolds look good, it's got new bypass o-rings, so I'm thinking the butterfly seals are the next to inspect. It's getting too much air.

[Shiny Hat]

Run it at night, seriously, that’s how I found my cracked intake boot. It would backfire and I could see a flame at the boot at the edge of the clamp. The boots are stiff and I couldn’t see the crack, once removed the left boot was split half its circumference right at the edge of the clamp.
Be sure to first set the TPS with the linkage off and the left throttle stop screw backed off, 150 mv, this sets the stage for the rest of the adjustments and is very important.
You can also spray some brake clean around the TB, injector and boots, listen for an RPM bump.

[normzone]

Intake boots replacements a couple of years ago, but check it out ...

[JoeB]

T It runs well, but pops sometimes at low RPMs when backing off, or even a steady throttle. But mostly it's running better and runs strong too.

During your tune up did you do any adjustments at the trim pot in back of the computer?
Can affect mix, noticed especially when decelerating.
If you do want to adjust it ask the board first for tips.

Edit: Vagrants post below mine is correct. Different computer.

[Vagrant]

During your tune up did you do any adjustments at the trim pot in back of the computer?
Can affect mix, noticed especially when decelerating.
If you do want to adjust it ask the board first for tips.

That's on the 98.His trim needs Guzzi dia for adjustment/ FWIW, my 2001 needed +30 on the trim and would still pop on rare occasions. FYI, the balance needs to be perfect.

[wirespokes]

I don't have guzzi diag, so that's not possible currently. When I adjusted the base setting of 150 mv, I couldn't get it set to exactly 150. It was like five or six mv plus or minus. Will that little bit make a difference? If so, how the heck do you get it to not move when tightening the fasteners?

Thanks for the tip, hat. I don't ride at night so don't think about stuff like that, but will do. Right now, forget it! It's too fricken cold!!!

Another question - that red light near the ECU - where do I get the data on that?

[Shiny Hat]

You should be fine being off a couple mv at base, meter accuracy also comes into play but I wouldn’t sweat it.
No idea about the red light.

[Tom H]

I just want to know for sure which ECU is in this Bassa. 15M mounted under the LH side cover or the P8 mounted on the fender under the drivers seat?

Makes a bit of a difference on tuning.

150mV +/- 5 no problem.

Tom

[wirespokes]

Yup, 15M behind the left side cover.

Good - I won't worry about not getting the base setting exactly right.

Thanks for the new intake rubbers Norm. They still look good.

[normzone]

Sean Fader had the bike in the shop in Orange County to do a clutch, and I told him anything he thought should be upgraded while it was there just go ahead and do it. Off the top of my head that included the intake rubbers, some seals, bearings in the transmission, drive line, etc.

[Tom H]

15M, good.

Just to be clear.......

The 150mV is with the tie rod between the 2 TB's disconnected and the idle stop screw fully backed out on the LH TB.

Once TPS is set to 150mV or as very close as you can (145, 155 is good enough). Turn in the idle stop screw until you get a TPS reading of about 525mV. Now leave the LH TB and TPS alone.

Make sure air bleed screws are closed.

Then follow instructions for the RH TB and balancing.

Tom

[wirespokes]

Today I got around to pulling the throttle bodies. Good thing too - as John warned, the seals were installed backwards. Cleaned everything in pinesol and re-assembled. One of the seals was damaged, but n, one in town to be found anywhere in a 60 mile radius. One report is they're going to be discontinued.

And they're not $3 anymore - list is $9, but that doesn't stop shops from charging ten or eleven for them - not that they even have them. On line they can be found cheaper, but with $9 shipping it's a wash whether to drive to the Yamaha shop a week later or pay the shipping.

The Throttle bodies weren't at all carboned up and that made it easier. I installed new 2mm cross section orings - 4mm inside, 8mm ouitside on the bleed screws. The old ones didn't look too hot, not sure if that'll make any difference though.

Another thing that might make a difference is the finishing work on the throttle bodies was terrible - as in - nonexistent.They were anodized, but the sealing edges still had casting lines that took quite a bit to smooth, plus casting imperfections all along the sealing edges. I worked them over pretty good and wound up without a lot of anodized surface.

One of the butterfly shaft seals was damaged and that's how I know they're not available - I was trying to find one locally. When I couldn't find one,  I built up the damaged lip with silicone sealer and put it back together. In the end, I could have left it alone, or even left it out, since there's a metal cap sealing that end off completely. No air leaks there, no way, now how!

While looking around I noticed that injectors at Harpers are three or four hundred bucks. Seems crazy to me - these FI systems are way more expensive than carburetors and a lot more trouble - unless they're working. And the seals - yeow! Carburetors are making more sense all the time.

[Tom H]

There is a place I think in Texas called injectorex or something like that. Also a place in Torrance, Ca. that fixes them. I;d need to look it i=up on who it is.

If there is a P/n on the injector, try the bay of fleas for a matching one.

Tom