‘17 V9 Starting Issue Help

[Dirk_S]

The 2017 V9 that I brought home a few weeks back asks for the code. I still don’t fully understand it (no need to explain, I’ll eventually do my due diligence and read the manual), but it’s there.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Heres the schematic
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2017_V9_Bobber.gif
Fuses A,B & C seem to be switched by the key switch, does the tail light turn On with the key?
If not it would point to the switch or associated wiring.
Your bike is getting older perhaps the grease in the switch is getting dried out, that can hold the contacts apart I opened up the switch on my 2017 V7III and replaced the grease with fresh Vaseline a couple of years ago.

[Kiwi_Roy]

So, my electrical adventure continues. My local bike shop too busy to pick up my bike. Maybe next week.

In the meantime, I’m doing what I can and learning about this bike.

Summary of what I’ve done/tried:

New AGM battery. Charged. Voltage checked. Connections clean and tight.

Ground to motor, cleaned up and tightened.

All fuses replaced. Fuse block cleaned with contact cleaner.

Ignition switch inspected, wires coming out look good. Sprayed some contact inside, exercised with key several times. Tried both keys.

Kill switch - contact sprayed inside, exercised numerous times.

Generally looked for loose wires and checked where they connect.

So, still left with this situation: red light flashes on dash with key off, as per usual. Turn key to on, no dash lights, no fuel pump sound, no horn, no indicators, no headlight, no taillight, no hazards, no start, no clicking sound, nada.

I’m at a loss. I’m giving up and next week my mechanic will pick up the useless (but still good looking) lump of metal.

Maybe, if I’m feeling energetic, I’ll dive deeper into the ignition switch…

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2017_V9_Bobber.gif
No TailLight, that means fuses A,B & C are dead check for 12 Volts with the key On with a Voltmeter or 12V test light.
Fuses D, E & F should be alive with the key Off
The power goes to the ignition switch item (12) via the Red/White Wire and comes back to ABC via the Green/Black.
Sometimes the grease inside the switch goes hard holding the switch contacts apart this can be fixed by wiping out the old grease and replacing it with fresh Vaseline.
If Vaseline is good enough for a babie's b.um its good enough for your guzzi.

I have seen on older bikes where the wires routed around the steering head the copper strands can go brittle with work hardening, (constant bending) the copper can break under the insulation leaving a tiny gap.

[Lowflying]

Well, I’ve done what I can, which is less than a lot of you guys are able to do.

It’s in the hands of my local bike mechanic now.

I’ll report back when it’s on the road again.

Thanks for all the ideas.