which one is exhaust valve?

[WHY]

I am gonna do my 1st valve adjustment on a 2011 V7 racer. just double checking is the exhaust valve the one closer to the exhaust pipe (facing forward of the bike) on both cylinders?

[oldbike54]

 Yes . Ask questions , or do a search here , or both . Get it right the first time 

 Dusty

[Wayne Orwig]

Yes, in front.

[oldbike54]

 What RK said , just don't ask us about oil unless you have lots of spare time 


  Dusty

[WHY]

Thanks guys, by the look of it its not too difficult. tried to change the air filter but fail to unplug the fuel quick connect so I gave up. worst part is unable to put the tank back on. the bolt was off by a few mm. end up trimming off some of the "puck" at the front to have a bit more room for the bolt to go back in. Yeah, lets not start another oil thread. been sticking with Agip 10w60 ever since. probably gonna switch to Motul 10W60 once I used up my Agip stock. over CAD 30$ difference for 4L.

[oldbike54]

 You wouldn't be the first one to have trouble with that "quick" disconnect . Someone give us some help here .

 Dusty

[Kiwi_Roy]

The valves should be very close, if it looks like they are more than one flat on the adjuster or a thou or 2 out get back.

[boatdetective]

Good for you!  Remember, the best part of adjusting your valves is casually dropping this information with family and friends.

As mentioned- the easiest way to get messed up is to mistake the two times that the piston is at TDC. I would recommend taking the plugs out and spinning the wheel while staring enrapt at the valve actuation. After several turns, you will be chanting "Intake, Compression, Power, Exhaust". I use a section of 1/2" dowel to stick down the plug hole. It's stable enough to not wiggle around and jam. Very quickly, you will visually correlate the movement of the stick with the opening and closing of the respective valves.

On other smallblock matters, our member sign216 has done some very nice basic maintenance videos on his V7- you might want to look them up. Joe's a great guy.

[chuck peterson]

And the 4 cycle motor goes....

Suck...

Push...

Bang....

Blow...


You'll want to adjust your valves at the point between push and bang

[Kev m]

And the 4 cycle motor goes....

Suck...

Squeeze...

Bang....

Blow...

FIXORED

[twowings]

I SAW that movie!

[sib]

What RK said , just don't ask us about oil unless you have lots of spare time 


  Dusty

And don't believe the reply that says both exhaust valves are on the right side of the engine, and both intake valves are on the left.

[oldbike54]

And don't believe the reply that says both exhaust valves are on the right side of the engine, and both intake valves are on the left.

    Computer screen
 I'm thinking that WHY may never come here again for advice . Wait , is this a two stroke ????

 Dusty

 Hey , one of you smart guys come up with an emoji that indicates coffee sprayed onto the pooter screen .

[drlapo]

Only the seat requires removal to access the air filter

[twhitaker]

I use a soda straw rather than a wooden dowel.

[Two Checks]

Oil...that's a slippery subject.

[Moto Fugazzi]

The 2011 V7 should be the 2TB model, and the filter is under the tank. To remove the tank:
1. Unplug the connections going to the fuel pump assembly
2.Try to start the engine. Let it turn over a few times until the pressure is out of the fuel lines
3. Squeeze the round FI disconnect, and whilst squeezing, push it into the connector attached to the fuel pump. This should release it,           and then pull the round FI disconnect away from the pump connector. I also keep my other hand on the pump connector, as it's plastic and somewhat fragile.

Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SYAS5xsUlo

Ken

[boatdetective]

RE the fitting:

You can follow the instructions and it very well may work. However, I'd just offer the question: "how long are you prepared to fight, curse, and cry over a ten dollar fitting?"  There are replacement fittings at your local Autozone for only ten bucks that are way, way better than the shyte you have. I've had to replace them on two pikes and never regretted it. The only potential draw back is that you'll need a special set of pliers ($10-15) and "Oetiker" clamps to clamp on the new section of hose. Afterwards, of course, you'll still have the tool.

I know that you'll find plenty of folks here who have had no problems with the fitting. You'll find just as many who want to send a letter bomb to the person who spec'd this fitting.

[malik]

I must be missing something. I can't see how removing the tank would give you access to the air filter on a 2TB 750. On the V7C, I remove the horn(s), the reg/rec & the plastic "splash guard" above it. That gives me access & room to wield the screwdriver for the 4 self tappers that fasten the door to the airbox where the filter lives. There's a bit of juggliing to get the cover out from between the frame rails, then a hand can go in & slide the filter out from its rails.

The last time I changed the filter a few days back was the easiest yet. But then there was only the airbox, the wiring loom & the front end left on the bike, so access was easy.

I've had the pleasure of removing the tank 3 times over the last few days (the V7C twice & the Breva once) and it seems to be getting easier, or I'm developing the knack. Took the time to examine the locking mechanism inside the QD coupler. It doesn't actually have to move very far at all, perhaps a millimeter or two. I had always been expecting a bigger movement & struggled to get it. It doesn't need much. A little silicone spray seemed to help loosen it. The Breva was more difficult to get the movement out of - don't think it had ever been off since leaving the factory - and it was stiffer.