Cal 2 wiring continued woes...

[brider]

My last plea for help was in this thread, where my BATT light on the dash wouldn't come on, and the starter relay would "click", but the starter wouldn't spin:

https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=101122.msg1598977#msg1598977

For continued reference, I was using this wiring diagram:

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1981_California_II.gif

I now suspect my ignition switch is shot along with the rectifier, although I am always suspicious that a device can go bad "just by sitting". The bike operated perfectly when I pulled it off the road 2 yrs ago.

Since my last post I:

 - Pulled starter relay and cleaned all connections. Verified continuity on small red wire from relay to starter solenoid.
 - Pulled all connections to the coils and cleaned them and re-connected them.
 - Pulled all connections to the rectifier and cleaned and re-connected them, same to the INPUT wires to the fuse block.

Here's what happens NOW:

Oil pressure light comes on with the switch "off", or in Pos 1:



Starter now spins the motor just fine! But there is still no BATT light. The instrument lights come on @ Pos 2, as they should, and shut off @ Pos 1. I can't tell from the wiring diagram where the power for the lights comes from, and why the instrument lights would be switched while the starter is NOT, it's always "on".

Verified that fuse position 6 is getting power with the ignition "off" (Pos 1), meaning post 30 is getting power. I conclude from this that the switch must have suddenly gone "bad".

On to the BATT light that won't come on: In this image below from the wiring diagram, it looks like the fat bluish wire from the rectifier should light up the BATT light, and the NEUTRAL light along with it. Neither come on, but I can't discern WHICH wire this is on the rectifier:



In this image, the upper red and dual-blue circled wires are what I was checking. Because I get no power at either, in any switch position, I deduced that the rectifier must also be bad? Against my intuition? Can someone tell me WHICH rectifier wire is the D+ and T wires?



Please also note the lower circled female end dangling free. It's red/yellow. I'm POSITIVE it has always dangle free, but I'd appreciate any suggestion as to what it is. Also, can anyone verify that everything is plugged in where it should be? I noticed that it looks like the fuse wiring puts F6 at the bottom and F1 at the top, the reverse of the diagram 

Please also verify the plugs on the alternator, and back of the rectifier:




I really, REALLY wish I'd never touched a wire when this bike has been down, and just stuck to the heads, brakes, and driveline, which were the reasons for taking it off the road. NOT the wiring 

[Kiwi_Roy]

No there's something wrong with your switch, it shouldn't be On, is the brown wire to the top 3 fuses alive with the key On?

Yes I think the fuse block is inverted, there should be a fairly thick brown wire coming from the ignition switch this goes to 3 fuses ganged together.
The diagram shows them at the top, it really doesn't matter but certainly easier to understand if you keep it as per drawing.
I believe the red wire at the top of the fuse block is battery + and it might be one of the reds at the Voltage regulator, the white connector on the left goes to the battery.
The T terminal at the alternator is the one on the lower right The terminal on the left is DF coming from the regulator, I think the one we see poking out on the RH side of the regulator.

The 3 pin plug under the regulator (not the 3 yellows) has Ground (black) 61 (blue) which is the charge light and D+ to the regulator.
61 and D+ are tied together.
You can test the charge light by grounding the blue wire to chassis then it should also turn on when everything is hooked up, it won't charge if the lights not working.
It goes ignition switch to charge light to 61 at rectifier to DF at regulator to D+ at alternator, The regulator must be grounded so it turns On
If you lift one of the brushes or pull the spade connector off the alternator the charge light will go out.

We'll make an electrician out of you yet LOL

[brider]

Yes I think the fuse block is inverted, there should be a fairly thick brown wire coming from the ignition switch this goes to 3 fuses ganged together.

You can test the charge light by grounding the blue wire to chassis then it should also turn on when everything is hooked up, it won't charge if the lights not working.
It goes ignition switch to charge light to 61 at rectifier to DF at regulator to D+ at alternator, The regulator must be grounded so it turns On
If you lift one of the brushes or pull the spade connector off the alternator the charge light will go out

So, do my rectifier and alt connections look correct?

By "...grounding the blue wire to chassis …"  , do you mean the blue wire circled in the rectifier photo, which actually has (2) blue wires ganged into that single plug, or the single blue wire visible in the battery-side rectifier photo, over on the right (rear side of the rectifier)?

Full disclosure: My rectifier is damaged, the forward-most of the (3) yellow wires pulled the post clean off the circuit board when I tried to pull the plug. I figured I can still trouble-shoot the system,  but would this have any bearing on the BATT light?

[Kiwi_Roy]

I think the pale blue wire is the one from the charge light shorting that to chassis will make the light go, the dark blue is the one going to the alternator brush.
I think the Red Yellow is normally grounded although it's also grounded thru two of the mounting bolts Is that the one dangling?

That schematic has a mistake, the common wire for charge and Neutral lights should be +12 Volts, the lights are turned on by grounding out the neutral or charge lights see this Lemans III, it shows it correctly.
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1981_LeMans_III.gif
Note also this drawing shows the three different switch positions On, Off and Park (shown in the On position)