NGC..Anybody use these brush cutters?

[bobrebos]

They have a 10 inch blade.  Im looking for a brush cutter that will cut the brush (Up to three inch diameter) on a steep hill at my cabin.  Anybody have any experience using one like this? 

https://www.vassey.com/new-models/2019-echo-srm-410u-27097465b

[delrod]

I have, they're a wonderful tool for a young fit person. They are also a good way to get hurt. Mankiller could easily be used to describe them for steep slope work YMMV

[Lannis]

They have a 10 inch blade.  Im looking for a brush cutter that will cut the brush (Up to three inch diameter) on a steep hill at my cabin.  Anybody have any experience using one like this? 

https://www.vassey.com/new-models/2019-echo-srm-410u-27097465b

We've got a lot of brush to cut here, and I have to say that I've given up on string-trimmers-with-a-saw-blade.

I've had some pretty powerful ones, and they are HARD work.   They'll do OK on small brush, where you swing the blade against it and it goes through in one swipe, but that only works on 1" or less brush.   On anything bigger, the blade generally binds up in the cut and you have to have someone else hold the brush back so it won't bind, which is pretty sporty with that blade zinging around.    I think that the 3" capacity is a pipe dream with any kind of woody stem.

That's just me, though.   Someone else may have had good luck with them.

Lannis

[oldbike54]

 I have used the older Stihl version of those quite a bit . Basically a large *weed Eater* with a metal blade . Don't expect them to just cut straight thru a 3" woody stem , it normally requires striking the stem a couple of times to make the cut . Remember , the blade is on the end of a long lever , it will kick away from whatever you are cutting . Another thing to consider , any large displacement trimmer is heavy and will vibrate considerably , they can be very tiring to operate , and can cause issues in your hands from the vibration .

 That said , the Echo brand is well respected , and for cutting on a hill side are probably the best tool for the job , just don't expect it to be easy .

 Dusty

[larrys]

I have an old Echo with one of these on it.
https://www.amazon.com/Forester-Chainsaw-Tooth-Brush-Blade/dp/B00I548C9Y/ref=asc_df_B00I548C9Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198123788296&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12736420938393329168&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003327&hvtargid=pla-379017052964&psc=1

You can cut up to 3" stuff with it. Don't cut rocks or dirt with it. The teeth can be sharpened if you do, though.
Larry

[s1120]

Ya, they are fun!  You really are not going to cut a lot of 3" stuff.  Its great for the whispy 1" stuff but mind that swinging blade! What works good for the thicker stuff is a pole saw.. I have a pole saw attachment for mine, and its great. Allows you to reach into thick brush and cut the branches, and trunks of the small trees. 

[Vagrant]

Do yourself a favor and get a Stihl FS91 or FS111or Fs131 they have the bicycle handle bars for safety when using a metal blade.  You want the chisel tooth blade. It's made like a chain saw chain and can be sharpened with a file even by a nonexpert. It will take on any 3" tree. Yes I'm a bit bias i worked for 37 years for them. Nothing else is equal to the quality and parts accessibility.

[Idontwantapickle]

They have a 10 inch blade.  Im looking for a brush cutter that will cut the brush (Up to three inch diameter) on a steep hill at my cabin.  Anybody have any experience using one like this? 

https://www.vassey.com/new-models/2019-echo-srm-410u-27097465b

You may find this video helpful in your quest:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYOlZb2bmmU

[bobrebos]

Do yourself a favor and get a Stihl FS91 or FS111or Fs131 they have the bicycle handle bars for safety when using a metal blade.  You want the chisel tooth blade. It's made like a chain saw chain and can be sharpened with a file even by a nonexpert. It will take on any 3" tree. Yes I'm a bit bias i worked for 37 years for them. Nothing else is equal to the quality and parts accessibility.

Il be looking at the Stihl ones this coming week.  Thank You

[bobrebos]

You may find this video helpful in your quest:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYOlZb2bmmU

Great Info.  Thank You

[John Croucher]

Over the last 5 weeks, I have been cleaning up a 6 acre property that had 4 foot grass/weeds and years of overgrowth small trees.   I found the first approach is woody brush killer sprayed on with a pump sprayer.  Easy to isolate the spray pattern to avoid over killing. 

I agree with Delrod, young and fit.  I have been hiring young guys to work for me a few hours a day.  Well worth it.  We have loaded 44 pickup/trailer loads and 2 30 yard roll back dumpsters of debris from the property.  Looks great now.  Need to be cut again, darn it.  4 more hours of bike riding time on the lawn tractor seat. 

I am not a burner.  I have an area that I pile to allow nature to do Her thing and pick thru to have a camp fire occasionally.  Be careful.

[Murray]

Got a husky 525.. I think i'd have to go look. Works pretty well as others have said get one with the cow horns and the harness I've knocked the hub around quiet a bit on the thicker stuff however will get through it. Tend to use the string head the most as it cuts a much wider area then clean up the bits it won't do with the blade.

 Although first I do as much as I can with the two stroke push mower as despite the effort its faster and does a better job, two stroke so I don't need to worry about oil strvation. It will depend on how much you need to do and how often. I found once you bash the thicker stuff down what shoots again is relatively thin and easier work next time around. Flail mower might be the other consideration but you will need to spend money for one of them.

[80CX100]

The best cost/benefit/ratio tool I ever bought, was a Stihl FS85, should have bought one much earlier; for decades I trimmed miles of trails by hand tools or a full sized chainsaw.

I'm not that familiar with Echos(good reputation) or that style of blade(looks too fine w too many teeth to my eye,jmho).

There is a learning curve to using a brush cutter safely and effectively,,, don't just swing in an arc in front of you back and forth, it will kick back dangerously and it's very hard on the machine's bearings & shafts. For smooth efficient cutting, start your cuts with the machine on the right side of your material,move to the left and let the spinning blade force the material into the corner of the heavy shoe base plate and pull itself into the material,,. think about wood tension/angles/gravity and how it interacts with the blade,,, you want your material cuts opening,,, not closing and binding on the blade.

I like more open chisel style blades, less teeth to sharpen,,, but more importantly less teeth to "set" those brush blades need a good tooth set to clear the cut and work properly.

I've literally beat my old FS85 Stihl to the point I've now relegated it to steel lawn blade duty, and picked up a used FS120 for brush work (I've yet to use it, but I'm sure it's a good one.

3" soft woods are definitely doable with the right tool,patience and technique,,, depending on the type of hardwood, 3" may be doable on a fresh blade or sharpening & set,,, but expect it to struggle,,,,pita.

If I had a lot of 3" material to cut to ground level,,, I'd be reaching for a small chainsaw with an old stump bar & chain, fwiw ymmv.

Just like a bike, a decent local parts supplier for whatever brand you purchase is something to keep in mind, you may get a deal at a big box store, but initial set up and tuning may be lacking, good dealer support can be worth it's weight in gold,,, poor dealer support is just that.

If you're into researching a bit to ensure you don't get stuck with a disposable lemon,,, the brush cutter threads on the http://forestryforum.com/board/index and the https://www.arboristsite.com both will have a ton of good info. fwiw

While using brush cutters, wear lots of good protective gear, heavy boots&pants, hand, ear, eyes, face screens aren't a bad idea,,, take the time to properly adjust your shoulder straps for the blade level that works best for you, you'll be glad you did at the end of the day.

Set yourself up with the right files/setter tools to maintain your blades,,, and keep an eye out for cracks developing in the gullets of the blades,,, they can turn into very painful pieces of shrapnel,,, you don't want that,lol.

Good luck

Kelly

[bobrebos]

The best cost/benefit/ratio tool I ever bought, was a Stihl FS85, should have bought one much earlier; for decades I trimmed miles of trails by hand tools or a full sized chainsaw.

I'm not that familiar with Echos(good reputation) or that style of blade(looks too fine to my eye,jmho).

There is a learning curve to using a brush cutter safely and effectively,,, don't just swing in an arc in front of you back and forth, it will kick back dangerously and it's very hard on the machines bearings & shafts. For smooth efficient cutting, start your cuts with the machine on the right side of your material,move to the left and let the spinning blade force the material into the corner of the heavy shoe base plate and pull itself into the material,,. think about wood tension/angles/gravity and how it interacts with the blade,,, you want your material cuts opening,,, not closing and binding on the blade.

I like more open chisel style blades, less teeth to sharpen,,, but more importantly less teeth to "set" those brush blades need a good tooth set to clear the cut and work properly.

I've literally beat my old FS85 Stihl to the point I've now relegated it to steel lawn blade duty, and picked up a used FS120 for brush work (I've yet to use it, but I'm sure it's a good one.

3" soft woods are definitely doable with the right tool,patience and technique,,, depending on the type of hardwood, 3" may be doable on a fresh blade or sharpening & set,,, but expect it to struggle,,,,pita.

If I had a lot of 3" material to cut to ground level,,, I'd be reaching for a small chainsaw with an old stump bar & chain, fwiw ymmv.

Just like a bike, a decent local parts supplier for whatever brand you purchase is something to keep in mind, you may get a deal at a big box store, but initial set up and tuning may be lacking, good dealer support can be worth it's weight in gold,,, poor dealer support is just that.

If you're into researching a bit to ensure you don't get stuck with a disposable lemon,,, the brush cutter threads on the http://forestryforum.com/board/index and the https://www.arboristsite.com both will have a ton of good info. fwiw

While using brush cutters, wear lots of good protective gear, heavy boots&pants, hand, ear, eyes, face screens aren't a bad idea,,, take the time to properly adjust your should straps for the blade level that works best for you, you'll be glad you did at the end of the day.

Set yourself up with the right files/setter tools to maintain your blades,,, and keep an eye out for cracks developing in the gullets of the blades,,, they can turn into very painful pieces of shrapnel,,, you don't want that,lol.

Good luck

Kelly

Great info.  Thank you very much!

[Lannis]

Il be looking at the Stihl ones this coming week.  Thank You

Between my mother's place and mine, I've had 3 Stihls, 3 Echos, and one Husqvarna.

As far as I can tell, there's not a lot of difference in functionality, life, or value for the dollar in the actual equipment.

The difference is in the dealer service.   Stihls are USUALLY sold by outdoor equipment dealers who will service or source parts for what they sell.   Echo and Husky are often sold by big-box stores or local hardware stores who do not have the facilities or staff to service them, so you're on your own.

I'd get whichever one your favorite dealer sells and services.   That'll make a lot more difference than the decal on the equipment!

Lannis

[cliffrod]

After owning, using & self-servicing a number of both large & small Stihl & Husqvarna chainsaws and a few other machines by both, I have found the Stihls usually cost more to purchase new with parts being less expensive later while the Husqvarna products are exactly the opposite.    Comparable OEM service/replacement items for the Husqvarna machines seem to be consistently more expensive.  Machine performance is equivalent.

With that said, I have no regrets with the two Husqvarna saws I have now (an XP372 bought new about 20 yrs ago and a great little 36 that cost $25 at a yard sale) but will probably not replace them with new versions when that time comes. I'll buy a equivalent size Stihl product.

[Muzz]

I have two Echo chain saws and they are as they say, good shit.

I have a 4 in one kit, a Chinese KNK. 52cc two stroke.  The weed eater attachment normally is a two line bump model, which I have replaced with an ally block type which uses 4 heavy serrated nylon pieces. Works a treat.  Also a 12" chainsaw attachment on the end of a pole which is positively brilliant.  I have yet to use the 3 blade light brush cutter or the saw blade.  Also comes with an edging tool.

The KNK range was designed "for the American and Spanish markets"  , and although Chinese made it has performed faultlessly in the two years I have had it.  Must be the easiest starting two stroke ever.  I have four gardens that I look after in my retirement and it gets a lot of use.  Really happy with it.

If the motor fails I can get a brand new motor, complete with clutch, for $120 NZ.

[Vagrant]

here's the facts.
when smaller brush cutters were first brought here in the 70's they were called "swing scythes."  and yes I probably spelled that wrong but it seems to be too old of a word for spell check. With the smaller engines they are designed to be swung from right to left making the cut. then as you swing back to the right you cut nothing to let the revs come back up.
don't worry about abuse of gear boxes or shafts. the clutch on the engine relieves the hard hits. Stihl in the past offered a lifetime warranty on theirs.
each blade has its own speciality use. there is a four tooth blade made for grass and weeds and up to 1/4 in trees. both sides are sharpened and it is designed to be flipped over in the field. sharpen on a grinder or a sanding disc.
the triangle or 3 tooth same thing but is very heavy and made for weeds that are very thick and vines and up to 1/2" wood. it too is sharpened on both sides. don't use it on 3/4 and up trees. too big of a hit.
they need to balanced on a cheap lawn mower blade balancer ( about $5.) after sharpening.
the 80 tooth is a throw away balde that's why I suggested the chisel blade. I have one that's over 30 years old. just try to avoid rocks!
the Stihl name brand blades have more nickel in them so they don't shatter. cheap ones don't. the blade with chain saw cutters on it is subject to having them fly off. It's your blood. consider it a $20 rear tire!
Very important! Always tap the blade after and before use with something metal. it should ring like a wine glass. if it doesn't it is either mounted wrong or it's cracked. dispose of it.

[bobrebos]

Well...with the different blades needed, safety equipment, harness, hardhat with face shield (I like to be safe the older I get, and its MY BLOOD not yours) , im well close to a grand, so its between the stihl and the echo right now.  I could probably buy a few good hand sickles for that price.  lol.  Oh well, I will make the decision soon...…..

[Knuckle Dragger]

As a young forester in the late 70s/early 80s we had a pretty extensive (for Tasmanian standards anyway) Eucalyptus regrowth  forest estate to look after.  To assist in providing early and rapid growth of clear sawlogs, we'd thin the scrub & understorey spp. away, with the aim of increased incremental volumetric return and controlled branch (i.e. knothole) suppression.

Manual thinning is slow & expensive.  Chain saws were back-breakingly difficult to use low-to-the-ground all day.  We instead invited a young, fit crew over from Sweden's softwood factory forests, to teach us how to accomplish the task properly, efficiently & economically.  They used big, powerful Husqvarna "clearing saws", which were basically brushcutters on steroids.  Big, powerful 2-stroke motors, cast alloy half-shafts suspended from full ergonomic double-harness with hip pads and a specialist hand sharpenable CIRCULAR saw blade fitted. 

These were capable of felling 200-250mm (8-10") diameter stems when double-cut, with safety and control.  The few teeth involved (some 8-12 I think) in the blades required a light 1, 2 or 3 stroke touch-up with a circular file each & every tankful.  Remarkably effective, a properly trained fellow could thin approx 1-2 hectares per day.  A quantum leap in efficiency over previous techniques..

Husky seems to be a world specialist in dedicated professional clearing saws.  Stihl might make the odd one or 2 "heavy-duty " machines, whereas Husky makes a comprehensive range.  This from a lifetime Stihl chainsaw fanboy.  I have Stihl brushcutters at home now: FS80? petrol & a 1500w (2hp) electric. But for clearing saws, nobody does it better than Husqvarna.

[bobrebos]

As a young forester in the late 70s/early 80s we had a pretty extensive (for Tasmanian standards anyway) Eucalyptus regrowth  forest estate to look after.  To assist in providing early and rapid growth of clear sawlogs, we'd thin the scrub & understorey spp. away, with the aim of increased incremental volumetric return and controlled branch (i.e. knothole) suppression.

Manual thinning is slow & expensive.  Chain saws were back-breakingly difficult to use low-to-the-ground all day.  We instead invited a young, fit crew over from Sweden's softwood factory forests, to teach us how to accomplish the task properly, efficiently & economically.  They used big, powerful Husqvarna "clearing saws", which were basically brushcutters on steroids.  Big, powerful 2-stroke motors, cast alloy half-shafts suspended from full ergonomic double-harness with hip pads and a specialist hand sharpenable CIRCULAR saw blade fitted. 

These were capable of felling 200-250mm (8-10") diameter stems when double-cut, with safety and control.  The few teeth involved (some 8-12 I think) in the blades required a light 1, 2 or 3 light stroke touch-up each & every tankful.  Remarkably effective, a properly trained fellow could thin approx 1-2 hectares per day.  A quantum leap in efficiency over previous techniques..

Husky seems to be world specialist in dedicated professional clearing saws.  Stihl might make the odd one or 2 "heavy-duty " machines, whereas Husky makes a comprehensive range.  This from a lifetime Stihl chainsaw fanboy.  I have Stihl brushcutters at home now: FS80? petrol & a 1500w (2hp) electric. But for clearing saws, nobody does it better than Husqvarna.

I love my Husqvarna chain saw and will look at their clearing saws/brush cutters.  Thank You