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Instead of that trig formula, why not calculate the diameter, divide by 360, then multiply by 8?
Yes, there's more than one way to figure this! That works as long as you measure that distance along the diameter (curve) vs a straight line distance measured with a caliper. Not a big difference for the 16mm but the 34 degree advance timing mark is 67mm (tangent) and a bit more than 68.2mm along the diameter. Nerd stuff...
In my opinion, yes.
Thanks Charlie.. Do you have a suggestion for a new flywheel? MGC sells a 17067050 ~9.5 lb model that I believe will fit the 850T. Should I consider one of the lighter versions (5.5 lbs)?
I spent today cleaning out my garage attic and buried in a container is a flywheel, pressure plate etc... stop by next time you are up in Edmonton and take it away, I need the space!
I've gone as far as I can with the engine assembly as I'm waiting for the head work to be completed at Universal Cycle in Calgary. I'm also trying to source locally the 2 bearings (large 2 row input and output) before I can assemble the transmission. So, moving on to the rear drive...I hadn't taken too close a look at the drive shaft when I took the swing arm and rear drive apart but I did note that the remaining grease was very thin and had a rusty look. I cleaned up the pieces in solvent today and removed the corrosion with a brass wire brush. Following picture is the drive shaft splines and rear pinion splines that fit into the coupling. Noticeable pitting where rust was removed with a wire brush.Next is the opposite end of the drive shaft that fits into the U-joint. The splines on the opposite end of the drive shaft are in much better condition and only exhibit a very slight axial play when inserted into the U-joint. The picture does contrast what the splines should look like on the pinion gear.The U-joint itself is very tight, but I can feel a very slight amount of play when I twist the opposite ends of the U-joint.All put together, the following video shows the lash in the entire drive shaft from the U-joint to the read drive. The splines on the output shaft of the transmission are in good shape, the mating end of the U-joint has no discern-able play/movement.https://youtu.be/hS1es3Cpoz4Unless someone has a different suggestion, I'll be needing a new drive shaft, coupler sleeve and ring & pinion gear set. The latter is regrettable due to the cost and complexity taking apart the pinion bearing assembly and the required shimming on the ring gear to make it all run smooth .
I'd replace the driveshaft and coupler, but not the ring & pinion (unless there's more damage, like chipped gear teeth or something). If kept greased, those input splines will most likely run a long time.
Beautiful work! Astonished you describe yourself as a newbie. I'll be referencing this thread when I have to get deep into the LeMonIII.
Great work Check Home Depot in the hardware section, plastic revolving parts bins in Edmonton they have a selection of small hard steel shims, you may luck out and find one that fits the speedo drive shaft.
Home Depot? No kidding - I'll give that a try today!I did find a thread that pointed to Fastenal (https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/11511041), minimum order is 20 pieces at $7.50 each ($150 for the order!).
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