DIY Tubeless conversion + Conti Road Attack 3 Radial Tire on V7 III Special

[jas67]

Today's rainy day shop activity was to replace the rear tire on my 2017 V7 III Special.   The Sport Demon had perished in a mere 3,850 miles (cords showing).   We have a lot of coarse chip-sealed roads around here, which may contribute to the short life of my tires in general.

Based on the recommendation of a few members here, I'm giving the Continental Road Attack 3 Radial tire a try.    New tread depth is 6.5mm.   I'll report back with wear measurements.

I decided give sealing the rim and going tubeless a try, as per this thread on ADVRider: https://advrider.com/f/threads/tiger-800xc-tubeless-converts.845718/ Add me as another data point. 2017 Moto Guzzi V7 III Special. There are a couple methods people use in that thread. Some use 3M 5220 Marine Sealant, some use 3M4412N sealant tape, some use a combination of both products. Results all seem to be good. Some use sticker dots over the spokes to allow them to be adjusted without compromising the tube. I don't know that anyone has tested if that makes a difference or not. I used sticker dots on the spokes, and 3M 4412N sealant tape, but no other sealant. Pic is before pulling the protective backer.

I first put the tape in the drop center, and trimmed the part of the tape that climbed up the sides of the drop center.     I had one leaky spoke when I tested with soapy water.     So, I addd a second wrap of tape, this time not trimming the part that went up the sides of the drop center, and also heating with a heat gun, and more slowly and methodically pressing the it into the corner of the drop center with a clean tire spoon.   Sorry, I failed to take a picture of the result before putting the tire back on.

The profile of the rim is very good for doing a tubeless conversion.   No special tricks were required to seal the bead.   Just air and go.
I did have to enlargen the tire stem hole to 7/16" for the valve stem that I had purchased at the local auto parts store.



The sealant tape costs $26 per role, so, no savings over a tube.   Of course, it could be a big ride saver if you get a pluggable puncture and have a plug kit and compressor along.
You can do two, possibly three wheels with a single layer.   I'm thinking that I could have gotten away with a single layer had I not trimmed the sides.   

I wouldn't recommend doing this if you're paying someone to mount your tires, as you might end up pulling the tire to redo something as I had too.

Oh, and one last hint for V7-III owners.    Unlike my previous V7's (2009 V7C, 2013 V7R, and 2014 V7 Special), I was unable to get the tire past the final drive vanes by just letting the air out of the tire.   The rim was going to contact the final drive vanes.   I was, however, able to change the angle of the wheel to get it off by removing the brake rotor and tone ring, giving more clearance to the left side of the swing arm.   IMHO, this is less additional work than removing the final drive as some have done.

I just have to remember to be careful breaking the bead at the next tire change so I don't damage the tape, otherwise, I'll have to re-seal -- yet another reason I don't recommend this to those who have a shop mount their tires.

[wirespokes]

Your rim has the safety bead. Nice!

Next tire change I'll be doing this to the 1000S clone.

[Kiwi_Roy]

I fully intend to do my V7iii over the winter.
Other wheels on my 72 Eldorado were done with simple GE all-purpose silicon without dots or tape but that product you used sure looks better 
Can you post a link to the tire valve and give details on how you sealed around that.
What did you use to de-grease the rim?
Which width of tape did you use?

[Perazzimx14]

Most auto parts stores around the area carry something very similar to the NAPA - NTH 90416 in .453 in. Or .625 in. diameter.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Most auto parts stores around the area carry something very similar to the NAPA - NTH 90416 in .453 in. Or .625 in. diameter.

Thanks, that's the one I used on my Eldorado but I didn't know where it came from.

[jas67]

I fully intend to do my V7iii over the winter.
Other wheels on my 72 Eldorado were done with simple GE all-purpose silicon without dots or tape but that product you used sure looks better 
Can you post a link to the tire valve and give details on how you sealed around that.
What did you use to de-grease the rim?
Which width of tape did you use?

The rim was already pretty clean, but, I used regular isopropyl alcohol to clean the rim, and then compressed air to make sure it was dry.
Tire valve is as Perazzimx14 described, from Auto Zone.

I cut the tape out around the valve so the rubber seal of the valve would seal against the rim.

I used 2 inch tape.

[ratguzzi]

I did a Ti with steel wheels, my '14 V7 and recently my SWM Superdual X. I used a marine sealant on all three that takes 3 days to cure. I just rode the Superdual from IL to Los Angeles with zero loss of air.

JB

[wirespokes]

I did a Ti with steel wheels, my '14 V7 and recently my SWM Superdual X. I used a marine sealant on all three that takes 3 days to cure. I just rode the Superdual from IL to Los Angeles with zero loss of air.

JB

John - mind telling us what sealant you used?

[ratguzzi]

John - mind telling us what sealant you used?

3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 (06501)– Permanent Bonding and Sealing for Boats and RVs – Tan – 1/10 Gallon Cartridge
JB

[wirespokes]

Thanks, John!

Did you cover the nipples or just apply the sealant into the dimple till it was filled? I've read reports where they filled the dimple part way, then filled it the rest of the way when that dried.

Sounds to me like you just filled it up, then waited three days for it to cure.

[Cdn850T5NT]

I would have thought that as the air pressure in the tire pushed the stickers / tape radially inwards getting it to  conform with the spoke well surface that the shearing action on the adhesive nearby would break some adhesion and allow for an air pressure leakage path... Interesting to know that this use of that special tape is an accepted and safe practise.

[rocker59]

Thanks for the write-up!   

[ratguzzi]

Thanks, John!

Did you cover the nipples or just apply the sealant into the dimple till it was filled? I've read reports where they filled the dimple part way, then filled it the rest of the way when that dried.

Sounds to me like you just filled it up, then waited three days for it to cure.

I put it right into the dimple area and used a large toothpick to sort of work it in to make sure there wasn't any air pockets. Time consuming but worked very well.
Yeah, can't adjust the spokes but with about a million miles on a multitude of bikes, I never once had to tighten a spoke unless I smacked into something.
JB

[Chuck in Indiana]

I would have thought that as the air pressure in the tire pushed the stickers / tape radially inwards getting it to  conform with the spoke well surface that the shearing action on the adhesive nearby would break some adhesion and allow for an air pressure leakage path... Interesting to know that this use of that special tape is an accepted and safe practise.

Some have done it to good effect. I couldn't, however. The G5 wheels have a pronounced drop center and I couldn't make the tape work. (grumble grumble) Cleaned all that mess up, prepped, and used the marine sealant. Made up a squeegee to fit the wheel, and applied two coats. They hold air better than any motorcycle tire I've ever had. Check it after a month, and they'll still be what you set them at. YMMV, of course.