98EV, 3years in storage. Won't rev up

[ccoli]

Working on my son's 98EV.  He hasn't used it much, if at all in the last year's. Not prepped for storage. Not much gas in it, but that is probably Ethanol based. Put a fresh battery in an it fired right up and idled smoothly. Try to give some throttle and it sputtered and died. Starts right back up, just won't rev up.
I'm suspecting clogged fuel, filter or maybe nonfunctional electric petcock.
What says the WG gurus?
Putting fresh tires on tomorrow at the son of Stottlemeyers garage.

[Murray]

Possibly a filter IMO if the petock isn't opening you'd be getting nothing, you could also have a gummed up fuel pump or some other kind of fuel pressure issue, I'd also have a look for vacuum leaks on the intake and make sure something hasn't moved into the air box causing a massive blockage.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Probably electrical..

[Zoom Zoom]

Fuel filter

ZZ

[ccoli]

Fuel filter

ZZ

Ok, anybody got the NAPA part number?

[Zoom Zoom]

Iirc Napa gold 3008. I'm not 100 percent on that but...

ZZ

[Wayne Orwig]

Mouse nest in air filter.
Bad fuel.
Bad TPS.
Plugged up fuel petcock/solenoid.

[s1120]

Mouse nest in air filter.
Bad fuel.
Bad TPS.
Plugged up fuel petcock/solenoid.

Really thats hitting the nail on the head. Pull the tank, and drain it. Check air filter, then pull that petcock to see if its all full of gummy jell. Change the fuel filter while its off also.. if for no other reason then it may never have been changed. Thats the first step with known old gas. After that, if it keeps up you can dig deeper. But gotta care for the known bad first.

[Vagrant]

when u unplug the fuel tap and the low fuel light wires mark them or u will screw up and fry the unit.

[Kiwi_Roy]

I picked up a 98EV sight unseen in Denver. The fuel pump seemed very noisy and the bike lost power going over the mountains, got so bad I camped beside the road.
It turned out the filter was full of rust, all I did was fill it with gas shake it up then let it run backwards out the inlet, the rust came with it, I never did put on a new filter. It ran like a champion all the way back to BC.
Listen to the pump, it will tell you if its struggling, it should only draw 4 Amps measured at the pump relay socket (poke your ammeter probes in the relay socket with the key Off), far right relay from memory.
Its a very common problem with the EV, the filler moat drain plugs up so water has nowhere to go but into the tank where it rusts
Patrick told me about it and how to fix it with an inner cable in electric drill.

If it's missing it could be faulty plug leads, mine came with that nasty carbon core type, copper is the way to go, it will have resistor caps as well.
If you measure from the plug cap to chassis it should read the same resistance on both sides, about 8k from memory but at least the same both sides.

[Tkelly]

Have fun changing the filter,it really can be done.

[Wayne Orwig]

Have fun changing the filter,it really can be done.

I hate that job. Buried up in the frame like it is.

[JoeB]

I hate that job. Buried up in the frame like it is.

Always remembered the phrase you look like your doing a "monkey mating ritual dance" when replacing it.

[pehayes]

Plugged up fuel petcock/solenoid.

+1

I chased one like this.  The Fuel Injection Filter is HUGE and it would take a shovel full of dirt to plug it up.  However, the electric petcock has its own internal filter which is about the diameter of a pencil and two inches long.  Plugs quite readily.

Disconnect the delivery hose, hold a catch can in place,  and turn on the key.  You will likely see a weak dribble of fuel instead of the steady stream intended.

Remove the petcock.  Pour out all the junk in the tank and rinse repeatedly.  Clean the pencil filter.  Reinstall.

While you have the tank off, look up under the center of the tank's tunnel.  That metal tube is a drain for the moat surrounding the fuel cap.  Intended for overfill fuel spill, it also serves to drain away rain and wash water.  If the drain gets plugged (often) any water gets past the filler cap seal and drains into the bottom of the tank.  Makes rust and sludge.  Plugs the pencil filter. 

If the moat drain is plugged, you can use a thin control cable from a bicycle and an electric drill to slowly snake out the drain.  The drain is a coiled tube which you can see inside the tank by looking through the filler hole.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[ccoli]

Thanks All! Once I have new rubber mounted on the wheels,  I will Head back to the garage, 35 miles away, and get my best man on it. Will update progress as we go.

[ccoli]

A rodent did set up a dining area in the airbox, but wasn't living there.
The tank had more than twice the amount of rusty sludge as seen in the drain pan. The filter was rusted and had more sludge in it.
Petcock valve doesn't seem to be working.
Time for an mg cycle order.
Found a NAPA gold 3008, but only at the main distribution center. Individual store didn't stock it.
Need to find my old bicycle parts to get skinny cable to clean out little drain tube by filler.
How far do I need to go on getting rust out of tank? I've flushed it several times. Have some POR left from another project including acid flush and solvent rinse. Was really hoping not to go that far.

[pehayes]

Just flush out the tank repeatedly.  Run it through some simple filter so that you can re-use the flush fluid over and over.
Maybe toss in some ferrous nuts to rattle around and break away any bits of debris.  Then you can magnet out the loose  hardware.

You said the electric petcock isn't working.  Is that because it is plugged up?  Or because the solenoid is failing to open it up?

Are you aware there are TWO electrical connections adjacent to each other?  One runs the petcock while the other runs the fuel level sensor.  Identical electrical connections.  Get them backwards and you will fry the fuel sensor and fail to run the petcock.  Look back at the electrical connectors and wires.  There is a small bit of RED heat shrink wrap on one set of wires just back from the connector ends.  That pair will be  the petcock pair.  Did you connect red to red?  I hope so.  What an absolutely dumb idea from the Guzzi engineers.  Many people have F'd this up because of the identical connectors.  There are a dozen better ways to solve this problem at the factory instead of just adding a little heat shrink wrap.

Get a bit of solder on  the end of your bicycle control cable so that it doesn't try to unravel in usage.  You only need about 15".

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[Kiwi_Roy]

I used some rust Mort in my tank, it turned the rust to a grey finish a little like galvanizing.

As Patrick says the importance of establishing the correct connector under the tank cannot be stressed enough, get it wrong and it will cost you the level thermistor.
The petcock has a dedicated fuse under the Right hand cover, with the key on you should hear it click when you pull or re-instal the fuse.
Is by chance the low fuel light on as soon as you turn the key, that's a dead giveaway that the plugs are crossed, normally the low fuel light comes on slowly.
Look under the tank for a pair of wires coming out further forward and unplug the connector for now, it has no effect on the bike running.

You might find this useful to identify the various components under there. I highly recommend note 3 40 Amp fuse

Don't be surprised if the order from Left to Right is slightly different go by the wire colours they won't change.
The rust just sits on the surface of the fuel filter, back flush it and 90% will come out, I got about half a small pop bottle out of mine. Put your finger over the inlet, pour some gas in the outlet and shake up, let it back out the inlet.

[Tom H]

When you clean the moat drain tube, do it from the underside of the tank. The top side at the gas fill at least on my EVT has a little nib blocking the hole. I use a bit of old speedo cable mounted in a drill. Just like doing a sewer drain. When I tried to just shove the cable, it only went part way, the drill made it work it's way through.

Good luck!!
Tom

[JoeB]

If debris from the rodent was under the filter into the air box you may want to take a look into the intakes to the throttle bodies.

[ccoli]

Well aware of the identical plug wiring issue, but not of the dedicated fuse. There is no action of any kind when the key is turned on.  The pump runs but is dry now so I don't want to run it long. Ordered a manual petcock which will be here before I get the tank clean and ready.
Mouse stuff was above the air  filter. Fuel filter has been changed.

[ccoli]

Spent a few days cleaning up the tank and drain. What a poor design.
Put the tank on and connected everything back except for the electronic petcock. Put a manual petcock on it.
Started and ran better, until I noticed the fuel spewing up near the front of the tank. Turns out the high pressure line has cracked. This is the hose that runs from the regulator to the tank. The one with a banjo at the regulator, and a metal threaded hose fitting at the front of the tank.
Anyone know who might stock these? Or do I take it to a hydraulic shop and have them reuse the fittings?  Or can I just buy good hose and use quality hose clamps and do it myself?

[fotoguzzi]

Can't you just use automotive FI hose and hose clamps?

[pehayes]

Anyone know who might stock these?

That's not a pressure hose.  After the regulator, this just bleeds off excess flow back to the tank and cycles like a fish tank.  Still shouldn't be leaking.
Sounds like you are describing #22 from this sheet:





Not sure why it wouldn't load my clipped image:



MGCycle doesn't list it.
AF1 in Texas does.  Guzzi part GU30108770.
Harper's has the same part but need to search without the letters.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[ccoli]

That's the one Patrick.  Sure leaks like there's a lot of pressure, but I suppose you are correct
May just try the hose clamps with new hose.

[s1120]

That's the one Patrick.  Sure leaks like there's a lot of pressure, but I suppose you are correct
May just try the hose clamps with new hose.

I would check all the hoses. They do dry rot over the years, and by now most will be due to replace. I have replaced about 90% of them on my 02. And that has low miles. Get good FI hose, and FI hose clamps when you do it.

[ccoli]

Its Alive! Got some quality fuel line and FI rated clamps, cut the old crimped ends away and reused the fittings. Actually had room to,put 2 clamps on each end. No leaks! Checked other hoses, most had already been replaced. Rear brake pads,  new oils, tires manual petcock and fuel filter.
Will deliver to the son this weekend. Then back to my own projects.
Thanks for the advice!

[s1120]

Nice to hear!!  There are a lot of hoses on these bikes!!  Only one that was in nice shape was the main injector feed Y hose to the injectors on my 02. But it is hidden pretty well deep in the block V.  That will get ordered soon also for a future tear down.. 

Im sure there will be other things crop up for a bit. Most of these need a little sorting when put back on the road. But at least it can have some miles put on it now, and work them out with time.

[Vagrant]

Change the brake fluid!

[Murray]

Change the brake fluid!

And the fork oil.