Author Topic: 98 ev11 questions (Read 8656 times)

Wayne Orwig · « **Reply #30 on:** July 09, 2020, 06:29:51 PM »

One of the locals had a modified brake pedal on his EV. I was bleeding the brakes and changing the brake pads. As I sat on the floor, I reached up to pump the brake pedal by hand. It bent using hand pressure.

Not something I would want.

Loop Tonti EV · « **Reply #31 on:** July 09, 2020, 08:08:41 PM »

I bought my 01 EV new. It wasn't long before I knew that with my size 14 boots I had issues with the stock brake pedal. It was a couple years old when I fabricated my own pedal with my torch, grinder and licoln buzz box welder. That was over 100,000 miles ago and I never looked back. Soon after I posted pics of my design the "Avance Pedal" went on the market and was a direct copy of mine. The advance pedal is no longer available and if I am correct the manufacturer passed away. Here are some pics of my fabricated pedal.

LowRyter · « **Reply #32 on:** July 09, 2020, 08:47:05 PM »

Quote from: Bill on July 09, 2020, 04:19:27 PM

I have no super hero capabilities, but it took me 2 rides to conquer the brake pedal stub. Loved it ever since. It gives you a supportive pivot point for your foot to make precise braking action. Maybe I do have super hero traits.
Bill

I think it's a good feature. Gives you leverage on the brake pedal and puts both feet on the same level when down shifting.

When I purchased my EV, I wanted to take off the boards and de-link the brakes. Then I rode it and it all makes sense.

Guzzi knew what they were going with this one.

ivantheterrible · « **Reply #33 on:** July 09, 2020, 08:50:20 PM »

Quote from: Tom on July 09, 2020, 04:02:15 PM

How tall are you? How much do you weigh? Relevant questions for the EV.

I'm 6' 1'' 160#

ivantheterrible · « **Reply #34 on:** July 09, 2020, 08:53:45 PM »

Quote from: Loop Tonti EV on July 09, 2020, 08:08:41 PM

I bought my 01 EV new. It wasn't long before I knew that with my size 14 boots I had issues with the stock brake pedal. It was a couple years old when I fabricated my own pedal with my torch, grinder and licoln buzz box welder. That was over 100,000 miles ago and I never looked back. Soon after I posted pics of my design the "Avance Pedal" went on the market and was a direct copy of mine. The advance pedal is no longer available and if I am correct the manufacturer passed away. Here are some pics of my fabricated pedal.

thanks for the pics! I'm a visual learner and the pictures are very helpful.

Tom · « **Reply #35 on:** July 09, 2020, 08:58:19 PM »

Don't know your shoe size but from your height, my guess is that the bike feels kind of tight. Get rid of the seat, trade it. Replace the handle bars with something that will work for your height. The common height that the factory uses is 5'10". That's tall for Europeans not American. I like 6' sizing. I'm 5'9". The brake pivot wouldn't work the same way for you as it does for me. You might definitely need to modify the foot brake and shift levers.

Texas Turnip · « **Reply #36 on:** July 10, 2020, 07:08:53 AM »

With over 1/4 million miles on 98 EVs I think I can give relevant info.

Side stand switch was disconnected before I left the dealership Do what you want. it's ok with me.

Relays. A few riders had bad relays and posted on WildGoose and the the relay pandemic started. Carry a few spares if you want.

Brake lever. I wear a size 15 cow pasture pump (boot) and never had a problem with the nob or the floorboards.

Here is what you should be worried about. 1 The handgrips will wear out and need to be replace at 110K. JU from MN felt sorry for me and gave me a new set. 2. The Valeo starter will crap out in 3 years with a measly 145K on the bike.

The seat to me was a torture device, yet good Guzzi friend from Vancouver, WA rode the four Corners Tour on the stock seat.

Put a few thousand miloes on the 98 and then you will know if you need to change the handlebars, stock seat, final drive windshield ,etc.
BTW. The '98 is such a mileage eater that I added a 4 gallon fuel cell so I didn't have to stop as much. Even did a SS1000 in January using only secondary roads in Texas.

Great bike, Enjoy,Tex

s1120 · « **Reply #37 on:** July 10, 2020, 07:43:24 AM »

Strange that the seat is so high... but the bucket part looks so far forward?? Past owner must have been tall with short arms. I lost the sidestand switch on mine early. Main reason was the side stand was so long, that when I rode with my daughter her toe would hit the stand and kill the motor. I could have adjusted it some.. but Ive rode a lot of miles on bikes without them. Dont sweat the warm ups either. Have a seat, fire it up, put on helmet, and gloves, and shes ready to go. It really takes less then a min to have it settle down and be ready to go.

LowRyter · « **Reply #38 on:** July 10, 2020, 09:51:31 AM »

Dang Tex, you'd think Guzzi would fix those lousy handgrips?

Sooner or later, these bikes will let you down.

Tom H · « **Reply #39 on:** July 10, 2020, 11:03:09 AM »

I don't know if the '98 can be changed with a relay or something, my '04 can be started in neutral with the side stand down. I know the switch works because if you put it in gear with the stand down, it kills the engine, even with the clutch lever pulled.

I do like to let it warm up for a few moments, long enough to zip the jacket and put my gloves on. With FI it's not so much the "warm up" so it runs, but to let the oil move a bit.

Tom

Wayne Orwig · « **Reply #40 on:** July 10, 2020, 02:25:12 PM »

Quote from: Texas Turnip on July 10, 2020, 07:08:53 AM

The handgrips will wear out and need to be replace at 110K.

Mine didn't even make it to 80,000 miles. I should check to see if the are under warranty.

ivantheterrible · « **Reply #41 on:** July 11, 2020, 07:40:31 AM »

thanks for all the feedback y'all.

ivantheterrible · « **Reply #42 on:** July 13, 2020, 09:18:16 AM »

couple more questions.

What is this light and is it important? I was digging around my bike and noticed that this little light had what appears to be a wire pulled out.

Also, what's involved with removing the evap system? just tracing the hoses and capping where they plug in? Is there a downside to taking it out?

Rich A · « **Reply #43 on:** July 13, 2020, 09:38:25 AM »

Quote from: ivantheterrible on July 13, 2020, 09:18:16 AM

couple more questions.

What is this light and is it important? I was digging around my bike and noticed that this little light had what appears to be a wire pulled out.

I think it is a diagnostic light for reading fault codes.

Rich A

pehayes · « **Reply #44 on:** July 13, 2020, 11:37:20 AM »

Just behind the seat latch, right side.
Diagnostic code display.
The computer does not SAVE fault codes. The fault must be currently active to display.
Keep looking in the wires and you will see another loose cap tethered in place.
Plug in the cap. Turn the key to ON but don't start. Observe the LED for flashing. Count the flashes and pauses. It will keep repeating. Consult the manual for the code reference.
It is a VERY crude system and it only detects a few simple errors such as disconnected sensors. But, I have had it properly report broken wires and such on several occasions.

See here:

Patrick Hayes
Fremont A

ivantheterrible · « **Reply #45 on:** July 13, 2020, 11:55:43 AM »

thanks! very helpful.

JoeB · « **Reply #46 on:** July 13, 2020, 03:22:16 PM »

Here is the efi manual that has info to decipher the flashing fault codes: https://dpguzzi.com/efiman.pdf
Pulled, err, I mean the canisters fell of mine early on. Quite a bit of tubing if I remember right.
There will be a tube coming from each throttle body. I pulled the nipples in the throttle body holding those hoses and replaced with appropriate size bolt and washer. Some just connect one hose between them or cap the nipples.
If you pull the nipples, save them for balancing when tuning the system.

n3303j · « **Reply #47 on:** July 13, 2020, 04:54:53 PM »

When the vapor recovery system disappears you need to provide an alternate breather for the fuel tank. The factory line has a tip over device that will close the line if the bike is laying on its side. You can put that device (mechanical) anywhere in the line where it will be vertical when the bike is vertical.

JoeB · « **Reply #48 on:** July 13, 2020, 05:16:24 PM »

Quote from: n3303j on July 13, 2020, 04:54:53 PM

When the vapor recovery system disappears you need to provide an alternate breather for the fuel tank. The factory line has a tip over device that will close the line if the bike is laying on its side. You can put that device (mechanical) anywhere in the line where it will be vertical when the bike is vertical.

Good call, forgot about that. Seems there was another filter of some sort downstream. If memory serves me, which is dubious, it kept a small amount of positive pressure in the tank. (?)

ivantheterrible · « **Reply #49 on:** July 17, 2020, 01:16:08 PM »

New Question. My tach is non-operable so I'm shifting, like on most bikes I've owned, when the engine tells me I should. this has always worked out fine and I think it still is but I find I'm not shifting to 4th until about 55 mph. that sound about right? Never owned a motorcycle (that I remember) where I was going that fast before shifting to 4th. I've read several folks comment that 5th gear is useless until 70+ and I've found that to be true but I'm a little surprised by 4th at 55.

Tom · « **Reply #50 on:** July 17, 2020, 03:40:52 PM »

Try shifting at 60 mph into 4th. 75 & above for 5th.

LowRyter · « **Reply #51 on:** July 17, 2020, 04:39:56 PM »

Quote from: Tom on July 17, 2020, 03:40:52 PM

Try shifting at 60 mph into 4th. 75 & above for 5th.

this

Tom · « **Reply #52 on:** July 17, 2020, 05:58:58 PM »

On my '80 SP1000NT. 5th gear at 5K rpms is 80 mph. Can't tell you on my Jackal. My 1000S is 5th gear at 5K 80 mph but with more torque on the low end. The V11 LeMans Nero Corsa is almost the same with more gearing from 1st to 6th. Don't know with the Eldo hack. No speedo. One caveat oem gauges. YMMV

https://oi372.photobucket.com/albums/oo165/1000s1991/DSC00534.jpg On my way to 90 mph maybe 6K rpms on I90 heading west. Not 100% sure with the tach. I was a little busy with passing traffic.

ivantheterrible · « **Reply #53 on:** July 17, 2020, 08:01:38 PM »

that's very interesting. I actually thought I was shifting closer to 60 but decided that was crazy and I couldn't have possibly been shifting into 4th at that speed! So that's pretty standard? Wild!

Tom · « **Reply #54 on:** July 17, 2020, 08:58:22 PM »

Forgot to tell you. The pix is for my '80 SP1000NT and yes the clock works. After hitting 90 mph and holding there for about 10 minutes. I backed off the throttle and was cruising at the 5K rpms. I could see in the mirrors something big and moving fast. I got passed by a black Suburban towing a large Bayliner. I was doing 80 and they disappeared heading west out of Missoula, MT. I ramped it back up to 90 and they still pulled away from me.

ivantheterrible · « **Reply #55 on:** July 18, 2020, 07:05:35 AM »

clearly running away from or to something!

randy yocum · « **Reply #56 on:** July 18, 2020, 10:32:54 PM »

About the troublesome tachometers on the 98 EV's I bought this one from Equus #8068 about 10 years ago,it wasn't a direct swap I spent some time making it fit as I recall.The wiring part was simple there were instructions included,and you clamp an electronic pickup to one of your spark plug cables.It has never failed to work perfectly.I think the company is still in business.

John A · « **Reply #57 on:** July 18, 2020, 11:15:31 PM »

With my small 13 boots the frame covers had to go, it helped the shifter the most but the brake as well.

Vagrant · « **Reply #58 on:** July 19, 2020, 08:55:14 AM »

Quote from: ivantheterrible on July 17, 2020, 08:01:38 PM

that's very interesting. I actually thought I was shifting closer to 60 but decided that was crazy and I couldn't have possibly been shifting into 4th at that speed! So that's pretty standard? Wild!

the speedo's suck at 70 your really about 62. at 80 72. an honest 65 or so is perfect for fourth gear. anything under 4000RPM in 4-5 is lugging.

Zoom Zoom · « **Reply #59 on:** July 19, 2020, 09:08:52 AM »

Another thing to add to your shift points. The bike does have a rev limiter. Once you find it, you will know when to shift before you hit it.

As stated, the speedometer is off. I calculated to be 11.66% some time ago. I have found that to be an accurate number for the bikes of the era. You can use that number to figure out your speeds. Odometer is much closer to correct. Go figure. I think mine was off by about 3 miles over 100 actual, IIRC.

John Henry

News:

Author Topic: 98 ev11 questions (Read 8656 times)

Loop Tonti EV