LED H4

[Dilliw]

I've been looking to upgrade the Griso to LED but fitting one of the 7" offerings but fitting one inside the little bucket seems like a pain.  Instead I went the easy way out and fitted an LED H4.  Three phillip screws and 5 minutes later I was done.  While I was there I replaced the parking light with an LED and another LED for the license plate, so total bill was $25.

The bulb I went with was the Auxito off of Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T4H4FR3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The little 194s:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WDBH2DX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I took a video of both and you can see them in this folder.  This is from about 25Ft from the bushes.  Sorry for the rainbow tonight but it's been raining. 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/t6jMrwr6Cq36KLHb9

[Scout63]

That’s a very smart install. I installed LED lights in my Norton and it made a world of difference. I can’t see why everyone doesn’t do it. Maybe someone can identify a downside. 

[Kiwi_Roy]

It makes perfect sense to do this, 
The LED only needs about 9 Volts for 100% output so a little bit of loss in the wiring can be ignored.

[redhawk47]

Downsides of putting a LED bulb in a headlight designed for H4 bulb:
1: The reflector is not designed for the LED bulb and may or may not provide a good light pattern.
2: Some of the LED elements are not in the location of the H4 filament and will scatter light in strange ways.
3: Many LED "bulbs" are too long/large to fit in many m/c light units.
4: Often poor or no low beam cutoff.
5: Most are "off road use only"; i.e., do not meet DOT specs.
6: Some bulbs, such as the one mentioned by the OP, have elements only on one side of the bulb, compromising the beam quality.

After trying 4 or 5 LED bulbs I bought a plug and play headlight unit for my V7II from Motodemic. Pricey, but good.

Dan

[bigbikerrick]

I have experimented with H 4 led bulbs for a while, and ran into some of the downsides redhawk 47 mentions above. The best I found, in just a bulb, was the ADV monster one.I ended up installing a  complete sealed led unit in my Griso , as suggested in the " griso ghetto"called a Koso thunderbolt.  It was pricey,and a PITA to install in the stock housing, but I think it was worth it in the end. How is your high beam pattern with the new bulb, George?
In the photos it looks pretty good!
Rick.

[huub]

I fitted led bulbs to most of my classics, they give the battery and charging  system a easier life.
I had none of the problems mentioned above.
Having said that, I am not that interested in getting excellent lighting,  if I run out of visibility I slow down.
The easiest solution in the world.

In the mean time failed bulbs due to vibration are a thing of the past, and handlebar switches might last a bit longer.
Worth the afford IMHO...

[Scout63]

I agree with hub on the importance of better lighting.  I slow down to fit my lighting.  But I think that LED lighting greatly improves visibility to other drivers. I installed Twisted Throttle LED small driving lights on my /5 and ithey really stand out.

[Dilliw]

I have experimented with H 4 led bulbs for a while, and ran into some of the downsides redhawk 47 mentions above. The best I found, in just a bulb, was the ADV monster one.I ended up installing a  complete sealed led unit in my Griso , as suggested in the " griso ghetto"called a Koso thunderbolt.  It was pricey,and a PITA to install in the stock housing, but I think it was worth it in the end. How is your high beam pattern with the new bulb, George?
In the photos it looks pretty good!
Rick.

Rick it was drizzling last night so around the block was the best I could do.  As redhawk says it's a compromise.  The lighting is single sided on this one and only shines up in the reflector.  That said I think they did some designing as the cutoff looks good.  I'll know more after next weekend with all the tunnels on the BRP.

Right now I'm going to say it's better than the Phillips that was in there and not as good as I could do with a sealed.  I originally went down the road you did but decided it was too much of a PITA to fit one in the stock bucket.  I bought a separate bucket that will easily fit a sealed unit but, and there's always a but, it is too deep to mount on the Griso.  My plan is to chop off the back end of it, get my friend to weld on a new back, and paint, but I'm going to try this out first.

[pehayes]

I too was doing recent experimentation on LED bulbs.  Especially for my '87 SPII which has the weak Saprisa charging system.
The problem I confronted was that most LED bulbs use the P43T socket base format.  But, my Guzzi reflector uses the P45T socket.  I think a similar reflector might be used in a bunch of Guzzi models at that age point.  So, how to convert?  I found this guy in Canada and purchased a pair of P45T-to-P43T adapter rings.

http://www.volvosolutions.com/Misc_P45T.html

They were available singly and cheaper on EBAY but would have to come from Croatia and I didn't want to wait.  Works a treat!  I'm now using this 6,000 lumen bulb and the charging system bootstraps itself and is much more productive to the battery.  I did have to bodge up a safety wire system to hold the bulb in place as the adapter ring and new bulb won't work with the existing Guzzi retainer clips.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BC4G48W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The adapter rings are sold in pairs.  So, I still have one left over if anyone would like to have it.  $15 plus postage.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[Dilliw]

Here you can see the single sidedness of this bulb

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I too was doing recent experimentation on LED bulbs.  Especially for my '87 SPII which has the weak Saprisa charging system.
The problem I confronted was that most LED bulbs use the P43T socket base format.  But, my Guzzi reflector uses the P45T socket.  I think a similar reflector might be used in a bunch of Guzzi models at that age point.  So, how to convert?  I found this guy in Canada and purchased a pair of P45T-to-P43T adapter rings.

http://www.volvosolutions.com/Misc_P45T.html

Ran into that problem on my Morini K2 headlight. I bought these: https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/p45t-r2-h5-to-p43t-h4-bulb-adapter

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I have a JW Speaker LED sealed beam unit in my Convert and it works well - nice beam spread, very bright. For my V700, I didn't want the "modern" look, so purchased a Hella H4 headlight and ADV Monster H4R2 LED bulb (no longer available). The result? Beam spread is actually a bit better and it's just as bright, at half the cost.

[Zoom Zoom]

I'm kind of curious. Does any one who has used any of these bulbs pulled one out to see how warm they get? I realize they use less power but since they all have a heat sink and some have a small fan on them, I can't help but wonder just how much heat they generate.

I understand the power savings, but in a completely enclosed housing, I wonder how well generated heat can be dissipated. Particularly with the modern stuff using plastics for the housing, reflector, and lens.

John Henry 

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I'm kind of curious. Does any one who has used any of these bulbs pulled one out to see how warm they get? I realize they use less power but since they all have a heat sink and some have a small fan on them, I can't help but wonder just how much heat they generate.

I understand the power savings, but in a completely enclosed housing, I wonder how well generated heat can be dissipated. Particularly with the modern stuff using plastics for the housing, reflector, and lens.

John Henry

I haven't removed the bulb to see how warm it gets, but it can't be much. The (glass) lens of the Hella in my V700 isn't even warm to the touch like it would be with a halogen. I'm not sure about the (metal) reflector since I'd have to remove the headlight to check that and I'm just not that curious/too lazy. 

[Dilliw]

I'm kind of curious. Does any one who has used any of these bulbs pulled one out to see how warm they get? I realize they use less power but since they all have a heat sink and some have a small fan on them, I can't help but wonder just how much heat they generate.

I understand the power savings, but in a completely enclosed housing, I wonder how well generated heat can be dissipated. Particularly with the modern stuff using plastics for the housing, reflector, and lens.

John Henry

My understanding is that they generate less heat than halogen but that heat can shorten the life of the LEDs.  The cooling is all about getting the extra life out of the bulb.

[Wayne Orwig]

I'm kind of curious. Does any one who has used any of these bulbs pulled one out to see how warm they get? I realize they use less power but since they all have a heat sink and some have a small fan on them, I can't help but wonder just how much heat they generate.

I understand the power savings, but in a completely enclosed housing, I wonder how well generated heat can be dissipated. Particularly with the modern stuff using plastics for the housing, reflector, and lens.

All lighting is horrible inefficient. As in, a 55 watt halogen generates nearly 55 watts of heat. A 35 watt HID, generates about 35 watts of heat. A 20 watt LED generates about 20 watts of heat. You can nit pick that because the LED is a touch more efficient, but it is close enough.
Generally, the real issue is that a halogen with the quartz bulb NEEDS heat to keep the halogen cycle going and help keep the bulb clean. The HID quartz bulb generates a bit more light when hot, so it is also OK with heat. The LED burns up and dies when hot, so it needs a lot of heat sinks or fans. A good LED may even automatically dim a bit when hot to protect it.

My original Stelvio headlight housing literally cooked in just a few months with my commuting home from work daily with the halogen high beam on. The housing was replaced under warranty and I switched to 35 watt HID bulbs. Never a bit more damage. (remember, that bike turned on the LOW and HIGH element at the same time, so 55 watts PLUS 55 or 60 watts each bulb, versus just 35 watts) I suppose today I would get LEDs, but I really dislike the glare from the goofy blue 6000k color most of them have.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Disclaimer:
I've never ridden it at night. It is *not* aimed. This is the high beam.. no stupid blue color. It has high/low.

Dang! My voltmeter bulb is toast..
I spent a princely sum of 17 bucks for this bad boy a year ago. Still working..  My alternator likes it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C1AOSVS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[SED]

Thanks for the LED recommendations - I'll be switching soon.   

Question: would the LED indicator bulb work in the charging circuit (charge indicator bulb)?  1980s Bosch alternator.  This is the bulb that disables the charging system if it burns out.  I suspect the difference in resistance between incandescent and LED would be a problem but don't know.

Anyone know?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WDBH2DX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Zoom Zoom]

Thanks for the info regarding heat. When I was looking the other day, I was coming up with more questions than answers. I'm more concerned about visibility than anything else. If I saved a few watts, then that's icing on the cake. But what I don't want to do is melt something.

ZZ

[coast range rider]

I fitted led bulbs to most of my classics, they give the battery and charging  system a easier life.
I had none of the problems mentioned above.
Having said that, I am not that interested in getting excellent lighting,  if I run out of visibility I slow down.
The easiest solution in the world.

In the mean time failed bulbs due to vibration are a thing of the past, and handlebar switches might last a bit longer.
Worth the afford IMHO...

Although I was riding through the thick fog at 10 mph, when the bike hit the curb it shot out from under me at about 100 mph. Years after replacing the easiest solution in the world with DOT approved LED lights I have not had a problem and feel much safer.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Thanks for the LED recommendations - I'll be switching soon.   

Question: would the LED indicator bulb work in the charging circuit (charge indicator bulb)?  1980s Bosch alternator.  This is the bulb that disables the charging system if it burns out.  I suspect the difference in resistance between incandescent and LED would be a problem but don't know.

Anyone know?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WDBH2DX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

An LED bulb will work fine if you install a simple harness with a resistor in it to "bootstrap" the alternator. Greg Bender sells a ready made one for $6.75.




With the harness in place, it doesn't matter what bulb is in there or even if no bulb is used.

[SED]

An LED bulb will work fine if you install a simple harness with a resistor in it to "bootstrap" the alternator. Greg Bender sells a ready made one for $6.75.




With the harness in place, it doesn't matter what bulb is in there or even if no bulb is used.

I like that!  Thanks   

[wirespokes]

Question: would the LED indicator bulb work in the charging circuit (charge indicator bulb)?  1980s Bosch alternator.

The LED bulb will block most of the current necessary to energize the alternator, so it won't work. But adding a bypass around the bulb with something like a 320-500 ohm resistor will permit enough current to to energize it.

[Wayne Orwig]

Disclaimer:
I've never ridden it at night. It is *not* aimed. This is the high beam.. no stupid blue color. It has high/low.

Dang! My voltmeter bulb is toast..
I spent a princely sum of 17 bucks for this bad boy a year ago. Still working..  My alternator likes it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C1AOSVS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Chuck, oddly there isn't a single word on that Amazon ad about the actual color. Pretty much all of the LEDs that I have seen are 65000k or bluer. I use 4500k warm white HID lights. They are, to me, a good strong light, with less annoying glare. The 6500k LEDs that I have seen, have annoying glare. LED chips DO come in warmer colors, so maybe that unit has a warmer color light. But the ad doesn't say a single thing. Would you happen to still have the packaging? Maybe it has some info.

[Stevex]

Going to check this bulbs dimensions to see if it'll fit my LM2.
Appears to be an excellent product.
https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/latest-led-headlight-h4-motorcycle

[Ratso88]

In my '13 GRiSO I'm running the Cyclops 10.0 with no issues. Mostly dropped right in, I had to separate the emitter from the base to get the condom installed around the lamp. A bit of Velcro used to secure the converter in the headlight bucket. Very bright with a good pattern. I usually don't ride after sunset but the few times I have I was really very impressed. The marketing is geared more to the Adventure crowd but the lamp works just fine on a road bike. Not cheap, around 80 bucks.

https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/Cyclops-100-H4-LED-headlight-bulb_p_192.html?redirect=1

 

[Chuck in Indiana]

Chuck, oddly there isn't a single word on that Amazon ad about the actual color. Pretty much all of the LEDs that I have seen are 65000k or bluer. I use 4500k warm white HID lights. They are, to me, a good strong light, with less annoying glare. The 6500k LEDs that I have seen, have annoying glare. LED chips DO come in warmer colors, so maybe that unit has a warmer color light. But the ad doesn't say a single thing. Would you happen to still have the packaging? Maybe it has some info.

Nope, sorry. I'll bet it's 5000+ though. Doesn't look "blue" at all to me, looks white.
Comma but 
The Mighty Scura's light in comparison looks yellow.

[motoTommaso]

I don't know if I can explain this clearly, maybe other photographers can do a better job, but you can't judge from a picture like Chuck's in his garage whether a headlight is warm or blue. 

Our eyes will adjust color balance automatically but most digital cameras (including cellphones), have an Automatic White Balance feature. It references the image and kind of guesses (most likely thru an algorithm) where "white" is.  Any color below that value will render warmer (or redder) and any value below that will render cooler (or bluer). You could have a 6000K or 4500K or 3000K bulb and put a white surface in front of it, the camera will try to render each source as white. Only if you standardize or baseline the white value can you tell whether a source is "warmer" or "cooler" in relation to it. 

If you're not bored yet and still interested, here's the real test.

Set your camera on a tripod. Bring in a cycle with an alleged 4500K LED headlight and aim it at a large white surface like a wall. Go into the menu and set a manual white balance. This will no doubt require some RTFM but it can be done. Bring in another cycle with a 3000K halogen headlight and park it next to the 4500K cycle. Bring in another cycle with a 6000K headlight and park it. Crank all the bikes, turn on all the headlights, and shoot a couple of shots at the same shutter speed but different f-stops. Then look at them on a fairly good computer. The referenced white (in this case the 4500K) will look white and the other two will look warmer or cooler depending on their respective color temperatures. If you photographed the same bikes shining on the same white surface without setting a manual white balance, each bike's headlight would most likely photograph as "white".

Apologies for the pedantry.

[Bert Remington]

mT -- I don't know about that balance stuff -- my Royal Enfield looks Yellow (old vs new).






Just kidding.  Your explanation was quite clear.  Thanks.

The old is regular 5K H4 I had laying around and the new is an Hella 3K Amber H4.  I assume the background etc was helping the camera with the Automatic White Balance.

The Amber headlight and Red/Green pilot lights are part of my emphasizing RE's "The best 1955 motorcycle made today" theme.  The headlight is a bit dim for mountain roads but neither the RE nor I are all that fast.  And besides it's really a daytime toy.

[motoTommaso]

Well good I guess I did get the point across. The camera sees that outdoors sunny day as 6000-1000 Kelvin and bases it's white balance on that. I guess the moral is don't rely on internet pictures.

I'm in the market for an LED H4 that doesn't cost $600 so I'm really interested in user reviews on the various choices.