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Somehow I don't think this will end well . Sounds like you have effectively reduced the tappet clearance to near zero , why do you think this is a good idea ? Dusty
I’m with Dusty on this. You may want to rethink it....Mark
What bike? Edit, a couple more questions Will it run when it’s hot?Steel or aluminum pushrods?Are you going to do the valve job or take it somewhere?
Irregardless...?
Awkward but acceptable , sorry . Dusty
Well if it’s not unwrong, then I’m not disaccepting of it...
I've always set clearances at TDC, if there's a standard baseline, why aim for something else?I've read many times that it doesn't have to be set exactly at tdc as long as the valves are both loose, you're close enough;idk?I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around your technique and the concept, but irregardless, isn't there a saying "noisy valves are happy valves" ? fwiw Kelly
I'm sure there's a fancy grammatical term for it.
77 T3, all stock, quite a few milesJust got back from stoplight racing for an hour an a halfIntake and exhaust at .009 go, .010 no go.Carbs balanced.Starts, runs, stops. No misfire, no backfire.Alternator is good, points look new.Been wrenching 40 years, just can't stand a valve train beating itself to death.
I think your technique removed the worn spots on your rockersDave R in guzziology mentions it on high mileage bikesThe valve stem pounds a depression that sits masked by the width of the feeler gauge That depression depth adds to your clearance when the feeler gauge is removed and bingo, too much clearance My machine shop wouldn’t reface the rockers suggesting I’d lose hardening on the surfaceNeat trick on the bottom of the cam, never heard of it