Help! stripped? nut in changing brake lever

[sickora]

Hi all,

I got new levers for my 2019 V7iii night pack.  I bought cheap levers from aliexpress, with the theory that if they didn't fit, I was only out $20 and I'd spend more on Pazzo.  Anyway, they came today and I put them both on. I was a bit worried about the clutch lever, after reading some stories, but it went on easy enough, as did the brake lever. After a quick test ride, I noticed the brake lever was loose (Had some play moving it up and down). No big deal I thought, I'll just tighten the bolt a little more.

Well, I don't know what I did, but I did something. Pics are below.  I can spin the nut with my hand. But If I turn it to tighten it, it just keeps spinning, never really meeting resistance.  If I turn it to loosen it, I can get it to where the pic shows below, but no lower. It just spins and spins and spins, never moving lower on the bolt.  At this point, I think I need to cut the bolt and order a new one. I found the appropriate bolt on af1 to order. I am pretty pissed at myself for costing myself a week or more of riding.  A few questions I'm hoping someone can answer.

Has this every happened to anyone?  My only thought is that I damaged a thread by accident, or stripped the threads on the nut? I've never had this exact situation before. I'm assuming I tightened too much?

Is the bolt something common place?  Like I said, I'll have to order it, but if I could get something from a local hardware store to replace it, that'd be great. I don't have high hopes for that.

When I get the new bolt, has anyone had aftermarket levers where the fitment is a little small? Could I solve that by using a very thin washer on top of the brake assembly? 

[guzzisteve]

Do you have a die grinder?  That will cut the nut off, then get new hardware. They make a wheel for a dremel tool also.

[Dirk_S]

Is the bolt something common place?  Like I said, I'll have to order it, but if I could get something from a local hardware store to replace it, that'd be great. I don't have high hopes for that.

I don’t know for sure, but I doubt it. Pivot bolts have a greased, non-threaded section after the head where the bolt spins against the shaft of the lever and lever housing.

[lucky phil]

Hi all,

I got new levers for my 2019 V7iii night pack.  I bought cheap levers from aliexpress, with the theory that if they didn't fit, I was only out $20 and I'd spend more on Pazzo.  Anyway, they came today and I put them both on. I was a bit worried about the clutch lever, after reading some stories, but it went on easy enough, as did the brake lever. After a quick test ride, I noticed the brake lever was loose (Had some play moving it up and down). No big deal I thought, I'll just tighten the bolt a little more.

Well, I don't know what I did, but I did something. Pics are below.  I can spin the nut with my hand. But If I turn it to tighten it, it just keeps spinning, never really meeting resistance.  If I turn it to loosen it, I can get it to where the pic shows below, but no lower. It just spins and spins and spins, never moving lower on the bolt.  At this point, I think I need to cut the bolt and order a new one. I found the appropriate bolt on af1 to order. I am pretty pissed at myself for costing myself a week or more of riding.  A few questions I'm hoping someone can answer.

Has this every happened to anyone?  My only thought is that I damaged a thread by accident, or stripped the threads on the nut? I've never had this exact situation before. I'm assuming I tightened too much?

Is the bolt something common place?  Like I said, I'll have to order it, but if I could get something from a local hardware store to replace it, that'd be great. I don't have high hopes for that.

When I get the new bolt, has anyone had aftermarket levers where the fitment is a little small? Could I solve that by using a very thin washer on top of the brake assembly? 

Grab the nut with some lock jaw pliers and pull down as you rotate the nut. Should come off. Then check the bolt threads for damage.

Ciao

[sickora]

Grab the nut with some lock jaw pliers and pull down as you rotate the nut. Should come off. Then check the bolt threads for damage.

Ciao

Didn't think of that. I was pushing down with a screwdriver as I turned, but nothing. I'm going to try the locking pliers tomorrow and see what happens.  I did order new hardware, but I'm curious to just look and see what is going on with these threads.

[lucky phil]

Didn't think of that. I was pushing down with a screwdriver as I turned, but nothing. I'm going to try the locking pliers tomorrow and see what happens.  I did order new hardware, but I'm curious to just look and see what is going on with these threads.

The pivot bolt generally has a shoulder and threads into the aluminium brake/clutch lever bracket until it beds against the bolts shoulder and the nut on the bottom is only a "locking" nut.
Makes sure the threads on the bolts arent damaged as when you then unscrew it from the clutch bracket it will damage the aluminium threads on the way out. If you need to after the nut is off clean up the bolt threads with a thread file before removal.

Ciao

[sickora]

well,  I tried with the vise grip pliers, but same result, the nut would spin but not advance down the bolt any.  I ended cutting off the nut with a mini hacksaw, only took me a few minutes.  I looked at the nut afterwards, still not sure what happened. My best guess is that I somehow damaged the threads by overtighting. 

Hopefully the new hardware will be here this week. I guess lesson learned for myself for this one.

[sickora]

Just thought I'd update with the final resolution.  The Bolt/Nut came this week from MG cycle. As I stated before, the underlying issue on all of this is that my cheap aftermarket levers do not have the best fit on the bike. After looking some more, the issue isn't that there is a gap between mount on the handlebars and the lever, where one could fit a washer.  The issue is that the hole that the bolt goes through is very slightly larger than the OEM whole, so that the bolt isn't as snug and there is some wiggle there.
Well, after thinking of a few actions that didn't work, my solutin was to use heat-shrink tubing. I tested out a sleeve on the bolt, which gave me a nice tight fit. Then moved it to the lever hole, heated it up gently to stick to the sides of the hole, then remounted it.  And guess what, it works!  No wiggle, good action when I squeeze the brake.

So what did it cost by cheaping out? Well, it was $200 Pazzo levers versus $21 cheap levers, + $16 for the new bolt (stupid $9 shipping) + 1 week of missed riding time.  I think I'm still coming out ahead, but if this fix fails, I'm going to just suck it up and buy the Pazzos.

[Ncdan]

I guess this is a proof story that you get what you pay for, good lesson for me also👍

[wrbix]

I’d be concerned re the heat shrink PLASTIC wearing and thereby either loosening or binding.
Suggest disassemble and cut off PLASTIC and do proper shimming with beer can Al (snapping red braces).

[Zoom Zoom]

I’d be concerned re the heat shrink PLASTIC wearing and thereby either loosening or binding.
Suggest disassemble and cut off PLASTIC and do proper shimming with beer can Al (snapping red braces).

I would agree with this.

John Henry

[fotoguzzi]

I'm having a hard time understanding what is so good about aftermarket levers? And what's wrong with the stock parts? I've never felt a need to change out the levers on any of my bikes.

[Dirk_S]

I'm having a hard time understanding what is so good about aftermarket levers? And what's wrong with the stock parts? I've never felt a need to change out the levers on any of my bikes.

I ride in conditions sometimes in which standing is beneficial. The left OEM lever is difficult for me to control with two fingers (other two fingers get in the way), and I like the extra adjustability that some aftermarket levers provide. Unfortunately, I’ve yet to find any adjustable aftermarket levers that are cheaper than the OEMs AND that actually work. Because I’ve been spending so much on other bits, those are farther down the list... but still on the list. Maybe I’ll open up the wallet and pay for premiums... or not.

[Huzo]

I’d be concerned re the heat shrink PLASTIC wearing and thereby either loosening or binding.
Suggest disassemble and cut off PLASTIC and do proper shimming with beer can Al (snapping red braces).

Aluminium bushing ?
Won’t last 5 minutes. Bore the lever out clean, make a bronze bush and shrink fit it in..

[Ncdan]

Could you just put the OEM back on and do an adjustment by re positioning the angles?

[Huzo]

Could you just put the OEM back on and do an adjustment by re positioning the angles?

If our man was looking to reduce the reach, it’s not going to be easy.

[Moparnut72]

I could make a bushing with ID, OD and length. The hole will have to true though.
kk

[malik]

FWIW, I found the cheap Chinese pazzo knock-offs ($20-30 a set) are a BETTER fit than the OEM ($40-50 each). I found the adjustable & short levers fit in my fingers more comfortably, besides looking prettier. Being shorter, a fringe benefit is that if (or when) the bike does fall over, the levers are out of the way & don't break. I did use the OEM top-hat spacers/washers to ensure a tighter fit. I'll see if I can't take some apart later today for a photo - in this case a photo would definitely be worth a thousand words.

[sickora]

To address a few questions asked.  I chose aftermarket mainly for the adjustability, then for asthetics. I have tiny little hands, so the closer levers are much comfortable for me.

I've also thought about how long this solution will last.  If it fails, my next step would be to to use a nylon spacer. I'd have to work on it myself as I looked and looked and couldn't find something premade that would work. Or I'll hit up Morparnut72.  The OEM clutch lever has a nylon spacer/top hat on it for fitment so I'd think that nylon would work.