1200 Sport Headlight Relay

[Bulldog9]

On my Labor Day weekend trip, I got caught in some nasty rain, and ran with my high beams on for a while. At one point the high beams (at least the indicator) would stay on when flashed or switched off, but the bulb itself would not light up. 

I initially thought the bulb burned out, but changed it and still no light. The Fuse is good, and the indicator lights up when flashed or switched on. Wiring to the bulb is good, so I am thinking it is either the relay, or relay plug.

At one point, I thought I smelled some electrical 'burning' but not sure. 

Where is the headlight/high beam relay on the 1200S/Norge?  I'm thinking it is under the tank on the left side?

 

[guzzisteve]

Behind battery hanging on rubber holders & under R/H side cover on the Sport like a Breva. To find out which one it is either use lites & feel for click OR go to wiring diagram and match which one has the correct colored wires(what I do).
I would clean all the plugs for the relays after 12yrs.

[Bulldog9]

Behind battery hanging on rubber holders & under R/H side cover on the Sport like a Breva. To find out which one it is either use lites & feel for click OR go to wiring diagram and match which one has the correct colored wires(what I do).
I would clean all the plugs for the relays after 12yrs.

Great thanks. Saved me from having to pull the tank.

[Kiwi_Roy]

If the High beam indicator was On and the bulb was not it would likely be a bad connection on the holder or bad ground.
The High beam indicator has its own ground through the dash and it picks up the relay status direct from the relay.
The schematic shows separate bulbs for High and Low is that the case? (I believe the Sport and the Norge use the same schematic)
You can see the white wire from the switch splits going one way to the lamp and the other way to the dash to turn on the light. So we can say the white wire is alive in High Beam position.
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2007_Norge.gif
As above only this is switched by a relay.
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2007_Norge_ABS.gif
You should be able to get a new lamp holder c/w leads at any Auto parts store.

[Bulldog9]

If the High beam indicator was On and the bulb was not it would likely be a bad connection on the holder or bad ground.
The High beam indicator has its own ground through the dash and it picks up the relay status direct from the relay.
The schematic shows separate bulbs for High and Low is that the case? (I believe the Sport and the Norge use the same schematic)
You can see the white wire from the switch splits going one way to the lamp and the other way to the dash to turn on the light. So we can say the white wire is alive in High Beam position.
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2007_Norge.gif
As above only this is switched by a relay.
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2007_Norge_ABS.gif
You should be able to get a new lamp holder c/w leads at any Auto parts store.

I tested all the relays in the battery area, and all tested good, with good connections. Will re-look the bulb side and grounds.  I did a hasty roadside/parking lot bulb change, so just a quick look.

Why did I think the Breva/Norge took the feed for the lights direct from the alternator and there were relays for ignition and lights under the tank?  So many bikes over so many years, it all blends. ;-)  I will take a look at the schematics and hobble back out to the garage later.

[Bulldog9]

Once again, I prove I have no reason to be prideful...... 

Due to my relative unfamiliarity with the 1200S and headlight unit,  that you turn it upside down when changing the bulbs, and even though I changed the high beam bulb twice.....  today, while installing some driving LED lights, and tracking down the wiring for the high beam, discovered I was changing the WRONG bulb.......  Yeah, color me stupid.

I almost always add driving lights to my bikes, and lately have been tying in small LED lights to the fused GPS power point. No switch, just direct key on power.  I have added these lights to 4 bikes over the last 5 years, and they look and perform well, especially for the sub $25 price. These are more 'to be seen' than to see, but do a great job with the up close road and terrain.

I pulled the front fender off, retapped the front bolt holes to M6, then added a 1" Nylon spacer and used 60mm M6 bolts to secure the brackets and fender.  Very happy with the results. 3/4" would have been a bit better, but is good enough. This is the first time I have AUX lights on the lower forks since my FJR.

Final product






Wired up the lights by making extensions to the provided lines, and zip tied them to the brake lines, running behind the headlight unit and then soldered in to a standard battery tender plug. All is powered by the stock GPS powered lead. This gives some flexibility for options rather than just wiring in a USB power port. I then plug a waterproof dual USB power port with voltmeter into the lead.




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Proof that both lights do indeed work ;-)