Adjusting shift lever height? 2009 Stelvio

[orionengnr]

Hello all--
Just bought a 2009 Stelvio.
Both the rear brake pedal and the shift lever are too high.
I can probably figure out the brake pedal (haven't looked at it yet), but tried to adjust the shift lever today.
The linkage has the familiar one-RH threaded end and one-LH threaded end. Slackened off both jam nuts.
Now comes the part when I should be able to rotate the linkage rod and lower the shift lever, but it does not want to move.
Looks like it is adjusted all the way to the shortest possible length. Tried a small wrench on the rod. I didn't want to damage anything so I did not force it.
Next is to remove the nuts/bolts at both ends holding the rod on, then on the bench try to lengthen it.
Or is there something I am overlooking?
Thanks in advance, Rich

[Bisbonian]

Is the shifter on a splined nub? Can you turn it a tooth on the spline?

[orionengnr]

No, it is through a linkage with a double-ended Heim-jointed rod.
Usually adjustable for length, which adjusts height.
This one doesn't seem to want to move.

[Ryan]

If it is screwed down to the shortest position, there are a lot of threads in there. Try a little liquid wrench and see if it will seep in and free things up. My 2016 was not easy to move either, but a little oil and a little force and it broke free.

[John Warner]

What Bisbonian was getting at, is that the Lever on the Gearbox is Splined.
You can rotate that by a Spline to give a 'coarse' adjustment, then fine-tune with the Linkage Adjustment.
Not the easiest thing to reach mind, so I'd see if the Linkage can be loosened as Ryan suggests.

If it's been graunched up tight to the shortest length, it may need some heat.
Heat the Joints with a Hot Air Gun, or a Gas Torch, then quench in Penetrating Oil.
You may need to do it a couple of times.

Obviously, make sure you know which is which, L/H ~ R/H thread-wise.   

Also, remember the Lever end is adjustable too, it's on an eccentric Mount-Pin, loosen the Pinch-Bolt and rotate it.

[ridingron]

Check to see what  the cost of a new one is. Let that be a factor in determining how to proceed.

[orionengnr]

Removed the rod, put it in a vise, and the RH-thread end was easy to turn. The LH-thread end (bottom) was stiff and partially corroded into place. Took some patience, some persuasion, and some lube, but it finally loosened up.  Ref-fit it loose, adjusted the rod length to set the shift lever in the desired spot, tightened lock nuts.
Job done.

[John Warner]

Nice one.
I'd invest in a pot of ACF-50.
It's not cheap, but it's worth every penny.

A little goes a very long way, I apply it with a small 'Artists' Paintbrush.

On the Brake side (and I'm sure you know this), make sure you leave around 3-4mm of free-play in the Push-Rod (before it touches the M/C Piston).
Also, the Push-Rod Locknut is prone to loosening in use, put a spot of Loctite on it.

[orionengnr]

John--
Thank you. I read Brit bike mags and bought a can of ACF on Amazon a year ago. Wasn't too bad, $13.50 IIRC.
I looked at the brake last night after I got done with he shifter.
It seems perhaps I can adjust the pedal height using the pushrod (not seeing an actual stop screw), but I'm trying to figure out how to adjust the brake light switch after the pedal height is adjusted.
Oh well, one step at a time....

[John Warner]

If you use the Pushrod to move the Lever down, I think you'll end up with the Brake dragging, as the return Spring will be strong enough to push the Piston slightly.
That will also mean it'll get less effective as the Pads wear, because the Fluid Port will never be uncovered.

I think you may have to use the Switch itself to adjust the Lever height, there's nothing else as far as I recall.
Long time since I've had to fiddle with mine.
I think the Body of the Switch is the Stop, a Tab on the Lever rests on it.

I'll have to have a look tomorrow.