Author Topic: Paint Refinish Question - Barn Find (Read 3108 times)

sign216 · « **on:** March 25, 2021, 06:15:50 AM »

It's actually my own bike. A '58 R50 that I bought as a young man as my first "big" motorcycle (remember when a 500 could be considered big?). I put it away in a rural Berkshire barn almost 30 yrs ago.

I got it back now out of the barn, and want to get it running. When I put it away, I put on a coat of paste wax, but didn't polish it off, thinking the thicker unpolished wax would offer more protection. Now, decades later, that wax is stuck. Hardened, and won't come off with a rag.

So...how can I safely remove it? A fellow BMW rider suggested Prep-All by Klean-Strip as a safe solvent to remove the wax, but I want to make 100% sure it's safe to the antique paint.

Joe

lucian · « **Reply #1 on:** March 25, 2021, 06:43:25 AM »

Hi Joe , Sounds like a fun project to resurrect the beemer. I use a wax remover / degreaser/ cleaner available at any auto paint supply or body shop. Many brands out there .

fotoguzzi · « **Reply #2 on:** March 25, 2021, 07:03:30 AM »

cliffrod · « **Reply #3 on:** March 25, 2021, 07:06:14 AM »

Before I used any wax remover, I would first try a generous application of very wet wax/polish like the once a year polish products to see if it will soften the old wax enough to facilitate removal. These products usually don't have any abrasive. Probably have to do a small area at a a time and it might take a few applications per area. Different fabrics used for application may help. I've found rescuing old paint like this requires careful work around old pin striping if it's there. The base paint is usually much more durable and forgiving.

If I used a wax remover product, I would also start with a typical mild off the shelf consumer product versus an actual paint-prep product that is designed to prepare the surface for new paint. There's no going back...

It's great to hear you still have this bike after all these years. Very cool.

Mayor_of_BBQ · « **Reply #4 on:** March 25, 2021, 07:11:12 AM »

I think AC is onto something. Maybe something even as mild as pledge! I would spray it on thick, let it soak a bit and wipe/buff it off. But then again I'm no expert!

One thing I would be concerned about would be all the barn dust that settled and stuck on that wax before it hardened completely and now could form an abrasive paste when you start agitating it

Ncdan · « **Reply #5 on:** March 25, 2021, 07:22:29 AM »

One would think that HOT, not just warm, soapy water and dishwashing detergent, would soften the wax and allow for removal.I have hot and cold water in my basement. I would attach my sprayer dispenser to the hot water side put the dishwashing liquid in the quart Reservoir and spray the foaming solution on the bike for several minutes. Let it sit a bit to work it’s Magic in breaking down the old harden wax then spray off with hot water. Apply fresh wax. Then you can continue the restoration by replacing all the gaskets and seals, removing and rebuilding the carbs etc and make sure to remove the rats nest from the air box😂

80CX100 · « **Reply #6 on:** March 25, 2021, 07:35:56 AM »

I wouldn't use any type of chemical, I'd get it good and wet with hot water and a gentle soap, then cover everything with heavy paper towels and soak them in hot water and let time and patience do the bulk of the work for you.

Extremely gentle cloths and as Cliff says, be very careful around the pin striping, in those areas make sure you only rub with the grain, be careful not to rub in a circular pattern where you would rub against the edge.

Old beemers were known to have very heavy thick quality original paint and I would guess their pin striping would be of a similar quality; time, hot water and a gentle soap should preserve what sounds like an amazing project; could it get any better than resurrecting your own barn find bike

cliffrod · « **Reply #7 on:** March 25, 2021, 08:12:56 AM »

Fwiw, my R69S needed some very similar careful work to make the all original paint look great. The original black paint was sturdy and no problem, but the pinstripes were less forgiving.

Using a soft bristle brush with with either natural bristle or synthetic with flagged ends instead of a piece of fabric can be a better option for gentle no-pressure removal. If the paint does need actual compounding/polishing after the wax is removed, you can easily dilute polishing compound or cleaner wax to slow the removal of fatigued paint and go slow to preserve all you can,

There's good advice posted here. Just go slow. And post some pics.... Before and after are always fun.

RinkRat II · « **Reply #8 on:** March 25, 2021, 09:34:59 AM »

Over the years I've learned to try WD 40 if hot soapy water won't budge it. I have removed some pretty stubborn coatings, decals and stickers with it, but patience is required. My $.02

Paul B

s1120 · « **Reply #9 on:** March 25, 2021, 09:57:21 AM »

If hot soapy water will not work, I would try using some more wax. Maybe try to swirl on a little more paste wax on a small aera, and see if it softens it up any. Just thinking the oils from the new wax, might find there way into the old and soften it.

n3303j · « **Reply #10 on:** March 25, 2021, 10:00:37 AM »

I'm a great fan of Naptha.
It dissolves oil, grease, wax and adhesives.
It doesn't bother paint or plastics.
Try it on an inconspicuous spot first.
Local hardware store has it as VM&P Naptha (varnish makers & painters).

drdwb · « **Reply #11 on:** March 25, 2021, 12:49:27 PM »

My go to parts cleaner is spray starting fluid the cheaper the better. I would try the warm soapy H2O first, if that didn’t work try a shot of the starting fluid see if it softens it up with a very soft rags.

geoff in almonte · « **Reply #12 on:** March 25, 2021, 02:31:09 PM »

Kelly & NCDAN have it right.

Sunlight dish soap in HOT water and some patience.

Cheers!

G

injundave · « **Reply #13 on:** March 25, 2021, 02:58:28 PM »

You could also try some vegetable oil. Paint it on thick with a brush and let sit for several minutes then see what happens. I have seen vegetable oil used to remove bikini wax and earwax. Worth trying. Good luck.

sign216 · « **Reply #14 on:** March 25, 2021, 03:22:06 PM »

A picture of my relic, my first "big" motorcycle.

I am liking the hot soapy water idea. The more wax or vegetable oil are also good.
Glad I asked. The Prep-All and paint prep chemicals sound more aggressive. Might go to them if I get stuck.

Joe

Tom · « **Reply #15 on:** March 25, 2021, 04:14:37 PM »

I'd say go for the vegetable oil. Least aggressive with moisturizing the wax.

sidecarnutz · « **Reply #16 on:** March 25, 2021, 04:41:19 PM »

WD40, veggie oil, try rewaxing to soften it. The hand painted stripes are fragile and will wear off first IME. Good luck, its gonna be a beaut!

Scout63 · « **Reply #17 on:** March 25, 2021, 05:14:14 PM »

Hi Joe - I’m happy to come pick it up, work on the paint, get it running and ride it for a couple of years. 30 yo fuel will probably kick right over. It’s a sweet looking motorcycle.

n3303j · « **Reply #18 on:** March 25, 2021, 05:30:27 PM »

Carnuba Wax melts at 180°F
Did you try hot sunny day or a heat gun and rag?

Carnuba based auto waxes are often blended with turpentine to dissolve the components.

lucian · « **Reply #19 on:** March 25, 2021, 06:46:15 PM »

Joe. if the hot water and mild soap doesn't do it , this stuff is soy based . I just used it on my lemans to strip all the old wax with no problems. I got it at the local Oreillys auto parts. Of course try on an inconspicuous spot first.
Very cool vintage bike.

fotoguzzi · « **Reply #20 on:** March 25, 2021, 07:03:39 PM »

That's nice, Thankyou for posting a before picture.

dguzzi · « **Reply #21 on:** March 25, 2021, 07:48:39 PM »

You might also ask a wax company. I think you have good answers here though.

Moparnut72 · « **Reply #22 on:** March 25, 2021, 08:27:04 PM »

A dental supplier may have what you need. Dental inlays were cast with wax and solvent was available for cleanup. At least it was done this way when I was in the Army but that was much years ago.
kk

reidy · « **Reply #23 on:** March 25, 2021, 10:49:10 PM »

If you take a look at the SDS for a lot of car waxes you will note that in some cases a large percentage is a petroleum product such as kerosene. The petroleum part is what gives it the ability to be rubbed smooth. The petroleum will then largely evaporate.

If you could get the ingredient list for the original product and see what the base petroleum part was, that would be ideal.
The idea about using something like kerosene on the wax is to put back in what has evaporated out. The wax should behave like it originally did. This will give you the opportunity to buff it. If you can't get the original list I would try something like kerosene, paraffin oil or something like that in an obscure place.

Steve

Muzz · « **Reply #24 on:** March 26, 2021, 05:37:58 AM »

Nice "find" Joe.

Will be interesting to see how it all goes.

"Ran when parked" was it?

SIR REAL ED · « **Reply #25 on:** March 26, 2021, 07:08:08 AM »

Quote from: sign216 on March 25, 2021, 03:22:06 PM

A picture of my relic, my first "big" motorcycle.

I am liking the hot soapy water idea. The more wax or vegetable oil are also good.
Glad I asked. The Prep-All and paint prep chemicals sound more aggressive. Might go to them if I get stuck.

Joe

The above sounds like good advice. If it doesn't work, I'd go with WD-40, Deep Creep, or PB Blaster. Soak and be patient.

sign216 · « **Reply #26 on:** March 26, 2021, 05:35:33 PM »

Quote from: Muzz on March 26, 2021, 05:37:58 AM

Nice "find" Joe.

Will be interesting to see how it all goes.

"Ran when parked" was it?

Muzz,
Ran when parked like 20 yrs ago. I have confidence it'll run fine this spring.

Lucian, Sir Real Ed, Moparnut, Reidy, Dguzzi, and all,
Let me give hot water and soap a shot. If that doesn't work, you know I'll back for more wisdom.

I already like your advice over the BMW guys, that just said to use a chem stripper.

Tom · « **Reply #27 on:** March 26, 2021, 08:55:46 PM »

No on the chem stripper.

dsrdave · « **Reply #28 on:** March 27, 2021, 05:11:51 AM »

I’d recommend a 50/50 mix of mineral spirits and linseed oil. It is not aggressive and imparts some of the natural oils. I understand this is what’s used at a number of museums to preserve old paint. Particularly at Dale’s wheels through time!!

sign216 · « **Reply #29 on:** March 27, 2021, 06:43:32 AM »

Thanks Tom and Dave,
The info continues to pour in!

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Author Topic: Paint Refinish Question - Barn Find (Read 3108 times)