1971 Ambassador revival

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Hi guys quick question on routing fuel lines. I'm using the dual banjo setup, does it matter if the fuel lines go below the carbs? Looking at some pictures it looks like it's OK if they do so. Or do they need to stay above te floats for gravity to pull fuel? Trying to find cleanest install I can and it seems like going under might be helpful. Thanks.

Also, do people ever run fuel lines diagonally, as in right petcock feeds left carb and vice versa?

Under is fine, and in fact is can be helpful - dirt or water will settle to the lowest point. Running them to the opposite side works well too, helps with routing sometimes.

[demet]

Thank you, fuel lines installed, petcocks installed with stainless stand screens from John G. On the left side the it seems like the petcock switch is really close to the cables coming off the carb, does that look OK?

Any suggestions on retaining clips for the fuel lines?

Next is getting the carbs set up/tuned. Is this doable without special tools? I've been starting to research it, will plug away at it.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Thank you, fuel lines installed, petcocks installed with stainless stand screens from John G. On the left side the it seems like the petcock switch is really close to the cables coming off the carb, does that look OK?

Any suggestions on retaining clips for the fuel lines?

Next is getting the carbs set up/tuned. Is this doable without special tools? I've been starting to research it, will plug away at it.

Looks fine.

I use these spring clamps on Tygon hose:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/195670111426

What kind of hose is that? Ethanol resistant or ethanol proof I hope.

https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_carburetor_-_setting_them_up.html
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_carburetor_balancing_synchronizing_without_carb_sticks.html

[demet]

OK cool. I used "CLEAR MOTION PRO PREMIUM FUEL LINE, 5/16", 3 FEET" from MG CYCLE:

https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=30&products_id=4439

Let me know if that's a problem! OK, on to the carbs...

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

OK cool. I used "CLEAR MOTION PRO PREMIUM FUEL LINE, 5/16", 3 FEET" from MG CYCLE:

https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=30&products_id=4439

Let me know if that's a problem! OK, on to the carbs...

You should be "good to go" then. 5/16" fits a bit loose on the petcocks and banjos for my liking, I prefer 1/4". The clamps I linked to may not work with 5/16" hose.

[demet]

OK I followed the instructions and I think I did it correctly. But I noticed I'm missing a lock nut on the Right side throttle cable... and I have what appears to be an oversized lock nut on the Left side chock cable. I'm assuming I should definitly get one for the missing one right? Can i just use an oversized one from the hardware store? Or should I replace both with the correct one I can order from MG cycle? just seems like a waste of shipping cost haha.
Thanks!

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

The missing locknut was likely removed so that the cable would have enough slack. If you install one, the cable may be too short for adequate slack.

Good luck finding a nut at the hardware store - M6-.75 thread is not common like an M6-1.0. Plus it'll be a 10 mm hex not 8 mm like the originals.

[demet]

So I can do without it? At least for now? If so, I'm close to trying to start it I think! I bought a gallon of premium fuel. Waiting for the fuel line clips, arriving tomorrow I think. Haven't changed the oil, but it's Ok to start start it? Will do full oil change before riding.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

So I can do without it? At least for now? If so, I'm close to trying to start it I think! I bought a gallon of premium fuel. Waiting for the fuel line clips, arriving tomorrow I think. Haven't changed the oil, but it's Ok to start start it? Will do full oil change before riding.

Sure, won't hurt anything as-is. I'd dump the oil that's in it and start fresh. 3 qts. only.

[demet]

So change the oil before trying to start it? I can do that, but thought I should get it warm before draining oil. Not sure why I thought that, but I can drain oil while cold and refill. What kind of oil do you recommend?
I'm excited to see it running, have had the bike almost two years without it running lolol!!

Sure, won't hurt anything as-is. I'd dump the oil that's in it and start fresh. 3 qts. only.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

So change the oil before trying to start it? I can do that, but thought I should get it warm before draining oil. Not sure why I thought that, but I can drain oil while cold and refill. What kind of oil do you recommend?
I'm excited to see it running, have had the bike almost two years without it running lolol!!

I run Shell Rotella T4 15w40.

[Cam3512]

Might want to just drain the oil cold, then drop the sump and clean out any sludge.  Have a fresh gasket, and a dab of anti seize on each pan bolt when putting it back on.  Don’t over tighten.  You don’t want to strip anything on the block.

[demet]

So I thought I would just crank the engine before adding fuel, just to check. I got nothing when pushing start button. Clutch was engaged. Couldn't get neutral light to come on, and not familiar with gears to know if I found it or not. Battery is showing 12 volts. I guess I need to start checking continuity of electrical wiring... Any suggestions? Is there some some special condition that needs to be met for start button to work?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

So I thought I would just crank the engine before adding fuel, just to check. I got nothing when pushing start button. Clutch was engaged. Couldn't get neutral light to come on, and not familiar with gears to know if I found it or not. Battery is showing 12 volts. I guess I need to start checking continuity of electrical wiring... Any suggestions? Is there some some special condition that needs to be met for start button to work?

Your Ambo may still be wired so that the starter will only engage if the transmission is in neutral. It's easy to tell and fix - if there is both a green wire and black wire connected to the neutral switch stud, then it will only start in neutral. If you want it to start in gear, then the green wire will remain on the neutral switch stud, but the black wire should be connected to a nearby bolt on the transmission case.

Remember that the shift pattern is "backwards" - one up, three down - so you may not be in the "real" neutral.

[demet]

Your Ambo may still be wired so that the starter will only engage if the transmission is in neutral. It's easy to tell and fix - if there is both a green wire and black wire connected to the neutral switch stud, then it will only start in neutral. If you want it to start in gear, then the green wire will remain on the neutral switch stud, but the black wire should be connected to a nearby bolt on the transmission case.

Remember that the shift pattern is "backwards" - one up, three down - so you may not be in the "real" neutral.

OK that was it. I tried to move black wire to one of the bolts holding on the neutral switch, but I can't thread the bolt back in. I haven't tried very hard but it's definitely meeting some resistance a few turns in. Hope I haven't damaged threads. Guess I'll have to try and chase it out?

So I attached black wire to a different bolt and it cranks. Let fuel flow and it cranked for a bit but no joy. Now won't crank, maybe I wore down the battery, need to check voltage tomorrow. Thanks for the help!

[John A]

Probly goo on the threads, pesky leaks there sometimes. Won’t leak much, sometimes enough to make a drip. It can migrate up and out of the connector as well.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

OK that was it. I tried to move black wire to one of the bolts holding on the neutral switch, but I can't thread the bolt back in. I haven't tried very hard but it's definitely meeting some resistance a few turns in. Hope I haven't damaged threads. Guess I'll have to try and chase it out?

So I attached black wire to a different bolt and it cranks. Let fuel flow and it cranked for a bit but no joy. Now won't crank, maybe I wore down the battery, need to check voltage tomorrow. Thanks for the help!

The black plastic of the neutral switch gets deformed from the bolt compressing it. I too have trouble getting them to go back in on occasion. What usually works is a short M10 socket on the nut driver handle - that way I can guide it straight and apply pressure as well. You might also try running an M6-1.0 tap in to chase the threads, taking care to get it straight.

[demet]

OK so I'm not getting any spark, checked by grounding plug body and seeing no arc. Should I check the plugs/leads in some other way? Coil is showing 12 volts, so maybe distributor is issue? Any tips on troubleshooting that? Here is picture of inside of distributor.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

The contacts (the points) look white and fluffy with corrosion. They don't work too well like that - clean the contacts with very fine (something like 600 grit) sandpaper until they're clean and shiny. Spray them down with contact cleaner afterwards. Gap them to .016". Clean the cam and apply a little dab of distributor grease.

Looks like the advance spring in the photos was mangled during installation too.

[John A]

What Charlie says. It also looks like corrosion on the points spring and its connection .

[demet]

OK thanks guys! Will try that today, hopefully I have the correct feeler gauge already. I'm supposed to advance the rear wheel until the points open up or something? Any guide/tutorial somewhere for this, I looked on This Old Tractor but didn't find.

Also what do you think of the Guzziology book? I noticed Greg Bender recommended it, thought I might get a copy?

[Dave Swanson]

OK thanks guys! Will try that today, hopefully I have the correct feeler gauge already. I'm supposed to advance the rear wheel until the points open up or something? Any guide/tutorial somewhere for this, I looked on This Old Tractor but didn't find.

Also what do you think of the Guzziology book? I noticed Greg Bender recommended it, thought I might get a copy?

Guzziology is a fantastic resource, a must for the library.  That along with TOT, Chilton's,  and the resident experts here you will all the bases covered

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

OK thanks guys! Will try that today, hopefully I have the correct feeler gauge already. I'm supposed to advance the rear wheel until the points open up or something? Any guide/tutorial somewhere for this, I looked on This Old Tractor but didn't find.

Also what do you think of the Guzziology book? I noticed Greg Bender recommended it, thought I might get a copy?

I prefer to remove the spark plugs and generator belt cover, then use a ratchet w/26 mm socket to turn the engine. A 1 1/16" wrench will work as well. There are two lobes on the distributor cam, turn the engine until the rub block of the points is on the center of the wider one, and set the gap there.

This might be the best manual for you:
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/tune_up_guide_for_the_shade_tree_mechanic.pdf
and/or
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/workshop_manual_chilton.pdf

[demet]

It lives! Got it started, see video on YouTube below. How does it sound? I probably need to do some tuning/timing. I only ran it for 30 seconds or so.

https://youtu.be/znF85SjojCQ

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Was that running on choke?

[demet]

At first no, but I think I opened the choke up after a few seconds. I could do another video with it on or off, and for longer time period. Helpful?

Was that running on choke?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Sounded good, sounded like it was on choke though.

[demet]

Thanks so much for all your help Charlie, I'm feeling close to actually giving it a ride!  If you or anyone else can spare 3 minutes here's a longer video where you can see me playing with choke. I'm curious if you have any tuning tips, and/or should I check the timing? I don't have a timing light, but could buy one if needed. Thanks!

https://youtu.be/-4X_O0AjrVg

[adaven]

Charlie, I wonder how you can tell that the choke is on in the first 30 sec. video?

[John A]

I don’t want to answer for Charlie, I learn something every time he posts but the exhaust note sounds duller with the choke on.