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I don’t recall ever seeing Allen-head bolts used to hold a flywheel. The danger would be that the internal hex would strip when the (locktited) bolts were removed. I don’t think I’d use them.
The harder grades are also more brittle. Matteo can tell you what happened when the heads broke off my 12.9 flywheel bolts. I'll just say that they then sheared flush with the crankshaft and were a girl-dog to drill out in situ.BTW -- IIRC, my 1200 sport flywheel was held on with socket head bolts out of the crate. Someone else can confirm.
You amuse me. I'd suggest you get more information before passing judgement.
Now where *is* that popcorn emoji? Oh, here it is..
Pete Mcgee - Ive fitted 12.9 allen headed bolts to mine, they fit, nothing fouls.Thanks for that info, which bike did you fit them to?
A few years ago one of the flywheel attach bolts failed on my 1000SP engined Loop. Stopped at a stop sign, pulled in the clutch and when released it wouldn't engage. Pulled and released a few times and it worked, but would jam up every once in a while. Got it home and pulled apart to find that one attach bolt's head had broken off leaving almost the entire threaded portion in place. They were new parts from MG Cycle w/ schnorr washers torqued with an old dial-type Snap-On 360 in. lb. torque wrench (admittedly not recently calibrated. I took the wrench to a calibration place and they found that it didn't even need to be re-calibrated so torque was correct per the manual. I replaced all the bolts at correct torque and no problem since. They BTW, had been in service for about 10,000 mi. I can only surmise that it was a defective bolt. There has been a lot of issues with crap fasteners for quite a while (especially aircraft spec). For actually meeting spec, it's sadly a bit of a crap shoot nowadays unless you go to extra expensive trouble. (shrug)
Were they plated bolts? Did you lube the bolts when you installed them?On really critical bolts or bolts you might be suspect of you can pull them up to torque on the bench with simple fixture and measure the stretch then back them off again and see if they have taken a "set" or come back to their original length. It's not a bullet proof test but gives you some idea if they really are poor quality. Plated bolts are a no, no in high stress applications and Moly lubes can lead to as much as 20% over torqueing when not specified. Ciao
I can only surmise that it was a defective bolt. There has been a lot of issues with crap fasteners for quite a while (especially aircraft spec).
Clamping force is the result of thread pitch and torque applied! It has nothing to do with what the bolt is made of**.If the bolts are the same pitch and diameter (same surface finish and lubrication) they will apply equal clamping force at an equal torque value whether they are 8.8, 10.9 or 12.9 as long as they are not torqued beyond limit.Therefore using a higher grade bolt in an application does not require applying a torque beyond that specified for the stock (lower grade) bolt. They both apply the same clamping force at the specified torque.Really shouldn't be exceeding Young's Modulus of Elasticity on any Guzzi flywheel bolt**. They should return to initial length at removal. They don't need "stretch" to provide clamping force. They are glorified wedges.Only reason for bolt replacement is the potential for fatigue.
Stretch is needed to maintain the bolt tension and therefore clamping force and the higher grade the fastener material the greater the force required to obtain the required stretch to maintain the bolt tension. A grade 12.9 bolt torqued to 8.8 torque may not have the required stretch to maintain it's tension. If that happens then the clamping force drops off and it's then the slippery slope to failure. Ciao