V7 II - Help with Removing Stator and Rotor

[Dirk_S]

I should be receiving my new stator in a few days, and I could use some guidance on how to remove the rotor from the shaft. Will I need the special tool that Guzzi recommends, or can I get by with a dead blow, bearing remover, screwdriver, crow bar, cordless drill, axe, chainsaw, sledge hammer, shuriken…

[n3303j]

Buy the tool.
It's cheap.
Works well.
Won't damage the parts or the bike.

[Dirk_S]

Thanks, Ron.

The V7 II manual doesn’t specify the tool part #, as you can see here:









However, the V7 II shares the same stator and shaft screw as the V7 III:








…and the V7 III does specify the tool (020847Y) and also specifies a spacer (the V7 II manual’s photo of the spacer is impossible to read):






So, should I purchase that tool? Should I also purchase the spacer? Or are these things easily found at a local auto store?

[Tom H]

From the way the tool looks. It looks like it threads onto the rotor, then you turn in the bolt part of it to pull it off.

The tool would be the right way. But...

If the rotor is just slid on and a key keeps it from turning, I would think a 3 leg puller would work???????? If it's a press fit like many of the rotors "were", I'm not sure if you could pull on the edges without warping the rotor. If you decide to try a 3 leg puller and it's a press type fit. Tighten up the puller "firmly", don't try to just crank it off.  Once tightened, give the bolt on the puller a good rap with a hammer. If it dosen't pop right off, tighten puller a bit more and repeat.

Oh, that little bit of metal keeps the puller from damaging the threads in the nose of the crank. Might not be needed with a 3 leg puller.

This is just a thought, hop it helps,
Tom

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

https://www.amazon.com/Aprilia-2009-2019-Mitsubishi-Flywheel-Puller/dp/B0848CXG4X
https://www.af1racing.com/OEM-Aprilia-Flywheel-Puller-Mitsubishi-020847Y

Looks like it has a 33mm internal thread, perhaps 1.5 thread pitch? If so, that makes it easier to find.
https://www.chapmoto.com/motion-pro-flywheel-puller-m33-x-1.5-rh-internal-thread.html

The aluminum spacer piece is not included, but is just a section of alloy bar and easily made.

[moto-uno]

  Why are you bothering with the rotor ? 99 times out of 80 it's the stator and that
  is easy peasey , no special tools ! Unless summer lasts forever where you're at !
  Peter

[Dirk_S]

  Why are you bothering with the rotor ? 99 times out of 80 it's the stator and that
  is easy peasey , no special tools ! Unless summer lasts forever where you're at !

A) I don’t want to chance not doing the whole job and it backfiring on me…

B) I have a new rotor anyway in this unit that’s arriving, so I might as well throw the new part on, and…

C) Just to say I’ve done a complete job and learn from the experience. I’m still new to opening up motors, so empirical knowledge wins this department.


When it happens again (hopefully far) down the road, I’ll probably just replace the rotor, if indeed it only appears to be the coils.

[guzzisteve]

If you get a hold of Vagrant he did a write up on his with pictures. You may find it w/a search.

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

Hey Dirk there is also an ebay seller who makes them... I dont have a link or any further info, but you can prob find it... thats where I got a puller for my v-65

Sucks there is a postal holiday monday, will delay getting your order in

[moto-uno]

  The "whole job" is correcting the problem no ? Spend your time riding it and change the rotor (if you must) ,
when it's snowing out  . Peter

[Vagrant]

Look for posts by Kiwi Roy or me from a couple of years back.
Just the POS stator fails. As you will see by the 4 foot of lead on it I think it came off a scooter straight from China. FYI , as I recall Guzzi wanted $600 for the package with the rotor and it was the only way they sold it. Pricks wouldn't warantee mine as the far from perfect PADS said it was good.
There is a screw up on the top of the frame that is only accesable by a ball allen wrench. Just open it up with a drill. The screws that hold the stator in are locktited. Heat them and remove them one at a time. The stator comes off easily. Kiwi and I didn't touch the rotor but it looked tappered to me. Make sure you have a new gasket and hot oil pruff silicone for the hole the cord passes through. Oh, and aa lot of beer.

[Dirk_S]

  The "whole job" is correcting the problem no ? Spend your time riding it and change the rotor (if you must) ,
when it's snowing out  . Peter

Peter, I appreciate the recommendation, but I think you’re assuming a few things that aren’t there:

I don’t have a garage, so opening up the bike in winter is a big nope for me. I’m sure you know what it’s like to wrench outside in cold temps. Besides, I’m riding through the winter, so I’d rather open it up once at the end of summer and get the whole job done, rather than opening it up twice within a year (and dealing with sealing the cover, oil refill, etc.)

Also—I’m riding right now as it is, charging up every couple nights and carrying the jumper pack just in case. Still enjoying the weather :)

Hey Dirk there is also an ebay seller who makes them... I dont have a link or any further info, but you can prob find it... thats where I got a puller for my v-65.

Thankya. If Charlie’s assumptions are correct on RH internal thread pitch, which it appears to be a ubiquitous spec, then I see a few on Amazon, ebay, etc. I just purchased one off Amazon last night—looks like it’ll arrive tomorrow or Sunday. I’ll try to get in touch with my dealer’s tech or someone else who knows the job, and confirm if it’s correct. If not, back to Amazon it goes for a refund, and I just wait another week.

Look for posts by Kiwi Roy or me from a couple of years back.
Just the POS stator fails. As you will see by the 4 foot of lead on it I think it came off a scooter straight from China. FYI , as I recall Guzzi wanted $600 for the package with the rotor and it was the only way they sold it. Pricks wouldn't warantee mine as the far from perfect PADS said it was good.
There is a screw up on the top of the frame that is only accesable by a ball allen wrench. Just open it up with a drill. The screws that hold the stator in are locktited. Heat them and remove them one at a time. The stator comes off easily. Kiwi and I didn't touch the rotor but it looked tappered to me. Make sure you have a new gasket and hot oil pruff silicone for the hole the cord passes through. Oh, and aa lot of beer.

Thanks, Vagrant. I had previously read your and Roy’s posts and didn’t recall either of you changing out your rotors. Appreciate your coming on here to confirm what I remembered. I still plan to do the rotor. If I have something new, then why not, especially as a learning experience.

Will a cute lil’ butane torch do the job, or do I need the bigger propane torch?

Thanks all. Step by step.

[Dirk_S]

FYI , as I recall Guzzi wanted $600 for the package with the rotor and it was the only way they sold it.

Got mine new from Cadre for $330 . They done good on me.

There is a screw up on the top of the frame that is only accesable by a ball allen wrench. Just open it up with a drill.

Oh yes, that bit stood out to me, and I look forward to drilling /cutting even more into my frame (I might be serious, I’m not sure)

Oh, and a lot of beer.

Well…I mean…duh. That’s where all the necessary carbohydrates come from in order to have so much energy to get the job done… and dull the pain when banging or pinching fingers.

..Not so good for congealing blood, though.

[Kev m]

Just to be clear. No one replaces the rotor. Unless physically damaged they RARAELY go bad.

** That is all **

[Dirk_S]

Just to be clear. No one replaces the rotor. Unless physically damaged they RARAELY go bad.

** That is all **

‘People don’t normally do it’ — I get that, and I got it before I made the post. But nobody’s told me why I shouldn’t do it. Is it easy to cause damage to the shaft, even if I use the correct tool? Can I easily damage something else? From what I’ve read and seen on other web pages outside of WG, stators often come without the rotor. Since I will have a brand new rotor, why not?

[Kev m]

‘People don’t normally do it’ — I get that, and I got it before I made the post. But nobody’s told me why I shouldn’t do it. Is it easy to cause damage to the shaft, even if I use the correct tool? Can I easily damage something else? From what I’ve read and seen on other web pages outside of WG, stators often come without the rotor. Since I will have a brand new rotor, why not?

You already said why not.

Is it EASY to screw up the crank? Define "Easy" some people could screw up changing their air cleaner (not saying that's you).

But WHY DO IT if it's not necessary? There's a chance of screwing something up every time you touch anything. Moreso if you need "special" tools to do it. Even if it's a small chance, it's a wasted chance.

So yeah, that's the why. Then there's the fact that you need to buy more tools to do it, why spend that money if you don't have to?

[Dirk_S]

But WHY DO IT if it's not necessary?

So yeah, that's the why. Then there's the fact that you need to buy more tools to do it, why spend that money if you don't have to?

Time, space, and knowledge are big resource factors as to why.

I don’t know what all can go wrong with rotors. I’ve read that the internal magnets can sometimes be an issue.

A good follow-up question is—How do I know if a rotor is damaged? Can the magnets become an issue within the rotor and I might not see it, or is a damaged rotor always something that will reveal itself?

The new rotor’s there, and I live in a small apartment. I can only keep so much. I just decided to keep my extra cylinder heads, but I can’t make that same decision with everything, so I’d rather throw on the new rotor now than consider tossing it.

Not having the garage means I have to be selective and efficient with my work time. Sure, I can cut the work down by not doing it, but if I have a chance to learn AND have a new part on, then I see it as a win.

True, the extra cost is there in the tools, around $40…but maybe I can also rent. Maybe.

Anyway, the new stator and rotor just arrived. As Vagrant showed in his experience, there’s a minor amount of wear, possibly from how the unit comes shipped. Pics attached:

[Vagrant]

I bought mine right from China for $97. to the door. I think Guzzi has now lowered theirs to 200-300.
It's your time and bike. Change the rotor or not. I'd use it for a paper weight rather than screw with something that's not broken.

[guzzisteve]

" I'd use it for a paper weight rather than screw with something that's not broken."   Good advice rather than a boat anchor. That way do it when it goes bad.

[Kev m]

Time, space, and knowledge are big resource factors as to why.

I don’t know what all can go wrong with rotors. I’ve read that the internal magnets can sometimes be an issue.

A good follow-up question is—How do I know if a rotor is damaged? Can the magnets become an issue within the rotor and I might not see it, or is a damaged rotor always something that will reveal itself?

The new rotor’s there, and I live in a small apartment. I can only keep so much. I just decided to keep my extra cylinder heads, but I can’t make that same decision with everything, so I’d rather throw on the new rotor now than consider tossing it.

Not having the garage means I have to be selective and efficient with my work time. Sure, I can cut the work down by not doing it, but if I have a chance to learn AND have a new part on, then I see it as a win.

True, the extra cost is there in the tools, around $40…but maybe I can also rent. Maybe.

Anyway, the new stator and rotor just arrived. As Vagrant showed in his experience, there’s a minor amount of wear, possibly from how the unit comes shipped. Pics attached:

On some bike rotors the magnets are external and bonded. They can become physically (obviously) damaged, mostly during service when someone damages one with a strap wrench.

You'd have to ask an engineer like my little bro Jays67 how/why rotors might otherwise be damaged in terms of losing magmatism. I don't know how or why or even if, but just can't come up with an example of it happening in my experience.

When we say people just don't replace the rotors, I assume it's for this same reason, they just don't go bad. I'm sure there's an exception somewhere but you know that old exception proves the rule thing.

[moto-uno]

  Centuries ago when I serviced British motorcycles , some of the charging systems seemed overly weak . But
  nothing seemed really bad . I made a simple ( like myself) device with a bathroom scale and measured the pull
  of each magnet on the scale . In all those years I found 2 that had a single weak magnet ( and they were British, remember).
  Each had the center so loose that the magnets were being hammered so often that they lost some of their strength.
  Not a likely situation with yours , but if you're gonna change it , let us know how that goes . And you can probably
  check the magnets  strength in your rotor with a piece of steel and a scale ! Good luck , Peter

[Dirk_S]

Just an update/closure to the thread—Since I experienced engine failure and purchased a donor engine, I’ll be using that engine’s stator; returned the new stator/rotor for a refund.

But curious—one of my stator’s phases read very low voltage, so I expected a third of the stator would look like it was torched. However, it turned out to not look that bad. I did see a couple of the wires between coils looked a little dark—maybe those are the failure points?

[Vagrant]

I suspect it is just starting to burn up. I'd replace it now.

[Navydad]

Doesn't need to look bad to be bad. A small short to ground or between wires is all it takes and those don't often show themselves.