being a trip around France.

[Daniel Kalal]

 
It has been awhile. My last two European motorcycle rides were three years ago  (2019) when I (on the first trip) rode through the Carpathian Mountains and then  (on the second trip) England. For 2020, I had  also made plans for two trips: the first was to be to Ireland and the second  would have been to the Portuguese island of Madeira.  Tickets were  purchased and plans were made.
 
None of it would happen.
 
- happened, instead.
 
Europe Motorcycle  Trip #23
 
For my return to Italy and beyond, I didn't make many plans--at least  not more than would be required to know which maps I should have with me.
 
While I've ridden across France many times, I'd never actually made that  country the main focus.  But, for this trip, I decided to just ride  around France for a couple of weeks.  I didn't initially intend to  literally “ride around France”, but that's pretty much what I did.
 
This will be a trip around France.
 
Illinois
 
There are a few options for getting to Milan, but this has to be the best.  Chicago O'Hare has a nonstop flight to Italy on a Boeing 787.
 
I've always liked this United Airlines tunnel between terminals.   The colors change, but the ethereal music playing softly is always George  Gershwin.
 

 
I'm waiting in the lounge.  My plane was parked just outside the window, so there was no need to be early to the gate.
 
   
 
   
 
This was my first time on a 787.  I like it.  The higher pressurization (effectively a lower altitude) is an advantage.
 

 
Italy
 
Malpensa Airport has made plenty of changes over the years.  The baggage area is now much better.
 
 
 
Milano Porta Garibaldi now has more frequent trains to Lecco, so it makes  sense to take the train from Malpensa to this station instead of Milano Central  as I used to do.
 

 
Lecco, Italy.  I'll be staying two nights--to acclimate  myself--before starting the ride.
 
 
 
Lecco cannot really be considered a tourist town, but that's only because  there are more attractive towns that cater to tourists not far from here.   But, it's a gentle place and perfect for what I need.
 
   
 
I'll be taking the ferry to Bellagio.  Depending on the day of the  week, you don't need to wait more than a couple of hours for the next ferry.
 
 
 
Bellagio.  There's no question but that Bellagio is a town that does cater to tourists.
 

 
I'm looking at Varenna across the lake.  Varenna has to be on the  list of most attractive towns on Lake Como.
 

 
Lunch at Ristorante La Punta.  I got here at the right time.   Soon after, people were being turned away if they did not have a  reservation.
 
   
 
Bellagio.  Today is my day for relaxing.  I'm just walking  around.
 
 
 
 
 
Lots and lots of steps.
 

 
The shoreline of Lake Como is dotted with villas such as this one.   This remains a private house even though the grounds are open (if you buy a  ticket).
 
 
 
The ferry that will take me back to Lecco.  You'd best make sure of  the time of the last departure.  The Lecco-side leg of Lake Como does  not have nearly the ferry traffic as the Como-side leg of the lake.
 

 
I've returned to Lecco and have done my laundry before having a light  meal and buying my ticket to Mandello del Lario for tomorrow's short, morning train  to Mandello.
 
   
 
Mandello del Lario and the Moto Guzzi dealership.  I've been here  many times.  I've not changed my packing: everything I need is in the  yellow duffle bag.  While available, I do not mount the saddlebags nor  the top trunk.  I mount the GPS on the bars (there are no wires to  connect--it uses its own batteries).  I'll be riding a Moto Guzzi  850TT, just as I did in 2019.
 

 
Stopping for a break along the Torrente Maira, near Savigliano.
 
 
 
I'm crossing into France across the France/Italy Alps with the idea of  heading more-or-less to the Pyrenees Mountains.
 
Vinadio, Italy.  The hotel reception is in the gas station across  the road.
 
 
 
Campeggio dei Forti
 

 
This is an impressively large fortress that dates back to the Kingdom of  Sardinia (and likely well before).  You might think the island of  Sardinia is not really nearby; the history of this region is complex.
 
   
 

 
France
 
I'll be turning south off this relatively important two-lane highway onto  roads that are often not wide enough for two cars to pass.
 

 
The view of Mont Pelat in the Maritime Alps.  This is a stunning  area that does not seem to be visited much.
 

 
The pass near La Foux d'Allos.  This would have been the pass taken  when foot traffic was the only thing, but today's paved road takes a  different route just north of here.
 

 
Colmars-les-Alpes.  Every pass is fortified.
 

 
I'm following part of the Route de Napoleon.


 
Torrent La Vaire
 

 
A bother.  The main zipper (the one that extends from the bottom of  my leg to my collar) of my Aerostich riding suit has failed.  I spent  time trying to deal with it, but gave up.  I'll need to either repair  it (doubtful) or otherwise figure out how to continue the trip without a  riding suit or a riding jacket.
 
Digne-Les-Bains, France.  None of the older hotels in the center of  town seemed to be operating, but I found this chain-hotel on the outskirts.   Yes; I did give the cat a little bit of my dinner.
 

 
Needing a riding suit, I looked for the nearest full-service BMW dealer,  knowing that they'd have something.  The nearest to me is in Aix-en-Provence,  on the coast, so that's where I am heading.
 
The old suit is strapped to the back,\ and I'm wearing what would have  been under the protection of the suit--it's cold, but this isn't too  bad.
 

 

 
I was very lucky.  The web site said they were open, but I had not  known that they were only open for two hours on Saturday.  I arrived at  the shop with just 15 minutes before they closed.
 
Most luckily, however, was that the only suit they had in stock (amongst  the hundreds of other “angry-biker-wear”) actually fit me, and should work  fine.  The color was unimportant to me.  They had one suite, it  fits, I'll take it.
 
I'll be figuring out the zippers and pockets and just how this thing actually works, along the way.

[Daniel Kalal]

BMW Bayern Aix-en-Provence.  Thanks for staying open for me.
 
 
 
Filling up in Port-de-Bouc.  I think I only encountered three stations  in France that would not accept my credit card (or any US credit cards).   Even so, being low on fuel and not being able to buy gasoline is annoying.
 

 
Alès, France.  Aim for the center of town; look around for something  that will work.  This is fine.
 
 
 
I am very early to even think about finding a place that will serve anything  but drinks, but in an hour or so, this street will be full of people.
 

 
 
 

 
   
 
Valflaunes.  I'm heading back to the Mediterranean coastline.
 

 
Bouzigues on the Thau Basin.  This is an inlet off the Mediterranean  Sea.
 

 

 
Millas.  Let's stop for a bite to eat and a break from riding.
 
 
 
My first entry into the Pyrenees Mountains.  I love this area.
 

 

 
A farming community tucked away in the mountains.
 

 
Spain
 
Llívia, Spain is entirely surrounded by France.  You'll find several  examples across Europe of borders that are actually bubbles within another  country.  No matter which road you take out of this Spanish town,  you'll need to cross into France.
 

 
The hotel in Llívia is unexpectedly nice.
 
 
 

 
   
 

 
The next morning, I found a post office and mailed the Aerostich riding  suit that I'd been carrying.  I'll be in Spain--mostly--but touching  France now and again.  My plan is to stay within these mountains all  the way to the Atlantic Ocean.
 


Narrow roads without traffic and small villages with character,  I love  riding here.
 

 
Stopping for fuel and Schweppes.  I am impressed by the benches.   Nobody will be sleeping on them.
 

 
Following rivers across Spain and the Pyrenees Mountains.
 

 

 
Horses seem free to go where they want, and this one wanted to go for a  walk on the road.  I parked and moved him to the grassy area where it  might be a bit safer for him (and me).
 
 
 
These are very rugged mountains.
 

 
What a great road for a motorcycle.
 

 
I am riding along the Garonne River, which I'll be following off-and-on until  it reaches the ocean.
 

 
Arròs, Spain.  I did pretty well finding good hotels along the way
 
   
 
Relaxing on the hotel grounds with a Spritz.
 
   
 
France
 
I'm well off the well-travelled highway.  It's easy to stop at this  waterfall without any concern that another car will come along.
 

 

 
A little rain is fine.  Sometimes a lot of rain fell, but that did  not last long enough to make me consider stopping.
 

 
Vast views across southern France that feels (and tastes) as much Spanish as  it does French.
 

 
Stopping for coffee.
 
   
 

 
When the roads become so narrow that two vehicles cannot safely pass, no  centerline stripe will be used.  This is probably safer as it forces  drivers to think before charging into a blind curve.  For motorcycles,  it doesn't matter, too much, although I had plenty of cars try to take over  my space on the road.  You learn to expect it and to just deal with it  before it's a problem.
 

 

 

 
Steep and narrow roads, but almost no traffic.  I am making very  slow progress, so I'm continually adjusting what options I have for the  trip.  The most important thing is that I must arrive back in Italy on  the correct date without too much rushing the days before.
 
Will I have time to cross the channel and ride in southern England?   I think “Yes” at this point, but this slow pace makes me wonder.   Eventually, the answer will be “No.”
 

 

 

 
The pass was incredibly windy.  It seemed dangerous to just sit  motionless on the motorcycle and walking was just about impossible.   When I walked out here to take the photograph, my thoughts were always back  at the motorcycle with a worry that it'd soon be tumbling across the meadow.
 

 
Yes, that's the road that has been cut across the bare granite sides of  the mountains.  There are plenty of tunnels that are dark and also  curved.
 

 
I've crossed the last major pass and am taking a break.  I looked around  for a hotel, but didn't see anything that looked interesting.
 

 
Following the Gave d'Ossau (river)
 

 
Bielle, France.  My room is in the attic.
 
   
 

 
What a beautiful place for a morning ride.
 

 

[Daniel Kalal]

A smooth road with no traffic.  Gorgeous.
 

 

 
I've sorted out that having taken several days to run the length of the  Pyrenees Mountains, any side trip to England or anyplace else isn't really  possible.  As I've been following the border of France, I think I'll  just keep doing that the whole way 'round.
 
Looking at the map, drinking my Schweppes and wondering where the nearest  bridge might be to get me across this river.
 
 
 
Moliets-et-Maa, France along the Bay of Biscay.
 
   
 

 
Surfing in France?  But, of course!
 

 
This is level ground, which has likely been modified considerably from  what was here hundreds of years ago.  The sandy soil now supports miles  of forests, but these are clearly forests that have been planted for their  wood or their pulp.
 
 
 
This was a constant problem today and the next.  Fires.  Big  fires.  I often had to take grand detours to get around them.   Many roads were closed, so I'll turn one way or the other, hoping to be able  to continue riding north (mostly).
 

 
I'm back to the coast of the Bay of Biscay.  The tumbled concrete gun  boxes are part of Germany's Atlantic Wall.  Time and erosion has brought  them down to the beach, where they are now only the target of graffiti artists.
 

 
Crossing La Gironde River by ferry.
 

 
I didn't wait too long, and took the time to find a hotel that I'd stay  in, across the river at Royan.
 

 

 

 
Royan, France. My hotel isn't too far behind me while I take this shot.   The building that has unaccountably been built on the beach is the Casino.
 

 
That's my hotel on the left (below).  Everything I carry on a trip  is in that yellow bag.
 
 
 
This is (or was) a popular place for a summer house of the rich (but not  ultra rich).
 

 

 
Choices...
 

 
Sunset over the Atlantic Ocean.
 

 
I've added tarts (available, fresh, at any small village) to my standard  coffee-break.  These school children are  participating in some sort of class-against-class competition to see who  could pick up the most trash.  Pretty clever.
 
 
 
Dinan, France.  I've been nearby, but had never stopped for any  length of time.  It's a remarkable place, and would make an excellent  headquarters for an extended visit.
 
That's my hotel (below), which is on the border of the old town and  perfectly located for me.  There's parking under it for the motorcycle.
 
 
 
I'll spend tonight and all of the next day in Dinan.  It's time to  relax a bit from the day-by-day riding that I'd been doing.  I won't be  riding tomorrow.  For one day, I'll just walk.
 
We're in the heart of Brittany, where things can feel like England, but  sound like France.
 
   
 
 
 
 
 
River Rance is where you'll find the lower part of Denan.  It's a  good walk down there, and even more so coming back up.
 

 
   
 

 
I am sitting along the river and enjoying my crepe while I watch the  progress of that artist with his brushes.
 
   
 
 
 
Near Lillemer, France.  I find myself riding through some out-of-the-way  places where you're more likely to meet a tractor on the road than a car.
 

 

 
This is the site of the command headquarters of General Bradley, after the 1944,  June 6 D-day invasion.  It's only a few miles inland from the  invasion-beaches.
 
 
 
Pointe du Hoc.  It's now (and was) an easy landmark from the sea.
 

 
The view north (towards Omaha Beach)...
 

 
...and the view south (towards Utah Beach).
 

 
U.S. Army Rangers climbed these cliffs to take out the large guns that  had the potential to disrupt the invasion force.  Information that all  the guns were not yet installed had reached the Rangers beforehand, but the  plan went forward, in order to eliminate the threat from this location,  entirely.
 
   
 
Thousands of bombs were dropped on this site before the invasion.  It's  all still clear.
 

 
Looking for a place that would take my card sometimes required several  miles of detour.  This Carrefour self-service station worked.
 

 
Riding across fairly flat terrain of Normandy.
 

 
Amblie, France is marked by the steeple.
 

 
I've stopped at the Canada cemetery, just inland from Juno Beach.
 

 

 
Hermanville-sur-Mer and another view of the BMW suit, which I've become used  to.  I wish the suite had a front map pocket, and I wish it had some other  good features of my Aerostich suit, but it's working fine.  The has a rigid  back-protector, which hasn't turned out to be noticeable when seated on the  motorcycle.
 
 
 
Deauville, France looks like a good place to stop for the night.   That's my hotel (below); my balcony is the first one up.
 
 
 
Walking through the town.  Deauville has quite a nice harbor,  protected from the English Channel.

[Daniel Kalal]

   
 

 
Some of the houses of Deauville.
 
   
 
   
 
   
 

 
Having my dinner at a sidewalk cafe.
 
   
 
The Tancarville Bridge across the Seine River.  I'm still (mostly)  riding north, following the coast.
 

 
Valliquerville, France: the community well, the war memorial and the church.
 
   
 
Neufchâtel, France is rather proud of their cheese.
 

 
These semi-exposed urinals seem a throwback to a much different age.
 
 
 
Bambou, France is little more than a gas station and cafe.  I had a  generally acceptable meal here.
 

 
Valenciennes, France.  I was hoping for a more historic looking  city, but evidently Valenciennes saw a great deal of damage during the war.
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
I asked for something simple--some bread and cheese.  Certainly; of  course.
 
 
 
Near Beaumont, France
 

 
Belgium
 
The idea was to ride around the border, so sometimes I was riding on the  other side of the border.  Near Daussois, Belgium.
 

 
France
 
Chapelle de Walcourt, built 1602 and rebuilt in 1781.   Restoration was completed in 2007.  At one time, it was even used as a  chapel by the occupying Russian army.  This place has seen a lot of  invaders over the centuries.
 

 
Givet, France.
 

 

 
Belgium
 
Neufchâteau, Belgium.
 

 
Luxembourg
 
Schengen, Luxembourg on the Moselle River.  You've likely heard of  Schengen in regards to the ability to cross European borders (such as I've  been doing) without any limits (as one might cross from Kansas to Nebraska).   The treaty that allows this was signed here in Schengen.
 

 
 
 
Germany
 
I did a lot of riding on the Autobahn, but took no photographs.
 
France
 
I am back in France, and grateful to be well off the main highways,.
 

 
Niederbronn-les-Bains, France in the Alsace region.  I'm not  expecting such a hotel in this small town.
 
 
 
  
 

 
  
 
Nearby is Fortress Four-a-Chaux, on the Maginot Line.  I was hoping  to tour this extensive defensive position, but tours are limited and are  only available by guide.  I'm sorry to have missed this opportunity.   The underground installation is massive.
 
 
 
Les Errues, France.  I've heard of these, but never have had one:   Religieuse (pâtisserie), just 2.60 €.  Do you see the likeness of a nun  in this pastry?
 
 
 
Le Doubs River.
 

 
La Tuilerie, France.
 

 
Le Gelot, France as I ride deeper into the foothills that eventually lead  to the Alps.  How do I remember the names of these small places?   The easy way is to just take a photograph of the GPS screen.
 
 
 
Pays-de-Clerval on Le Doubs River.
 

 
Near Cotebrune, France.  The southeast of France is one of my favorite  places to ride.
 

 

 
La Cluse-et-Mijoux, France.  As always, the routes is protected by a  fortress.
 

 
My favorite sort of place: a good restaurant with several rooms upstairs.
 
 
 
 
 
It's early morning, just before sunrise.  It looks to be a beautiful day  for riding.
 

 
Au fil de la Valserine (near Alpages).  This narrow road follows the  full length of this gorgeous valley.  I'm pretty certain that the road sees  more bicycles than cars.
 

 

 

 

 
Into the Jura Mountains.
 

 
I'm taking a crumble-and-coffee break near La Tuilière.
 

 
Lac d'Annecy.  The western end of this large lake is highly developed  with lots of resorts, but this other end remains natural.

[Daniel Kalal]

 
I've entered the French Alps.
 

 

 

 
Bourg-Saint-Maurice, France.  My hotel (below) is within easy  walking of the town.
 
 
 
There's a funicular that will take you to that hotel and access to the higher  ski centers.
 

 
Walking through the center of Bourg-Saint-Maurice.
 

 
   
 
Crossing Little Saint Bernard Pass and looking back to the town I started  from this morning.
 

 
When Hannibal crossed the Alps with his elephants, he might have come across  this pass.  There are other possibilities, but I like to image dozens of  war-elephants looking for grass to eat while the troops rested here.
 

 
The Maginot Line was here, too.
 

 

 
Italy
 
Mont Blanc.  There's a tunnel that runs under it, but I've come across  the Alps the old-fashioned way.
 

 
On the Autostrada, following the signs to Milano.
 
Incidentally, I am carrying the hard-to-find oil based on the fact that  the last time I rode a Guzzi TT, the engine consumed a fair amount of oil  and ran hot.  But, this bike ran beautifully and used no oil.   Based on the performance and power of this current motorcycle, I'm now  convinced that the last bike I rode was not at all what it should have been.
 

 
And, I'm back at Mandello del Lario.  Is this the most beautiful  lake in the world?  Some say it is.
 

 
Always, after walking to the lake after turning my ride in, I stop at the  best gelato store in Italy.  It always feels good to walk along the  lake after a long and successful ride.
 
   
 
My room is up there in the corner.
 
 
 
Walking through Mandello.
 
   
 
 
 
The next morning, I catch the train to Lecco, and then continue on that same  train to Milano.
 

 
Arriving in Milano, Italy.  It's a wet afternoon.
 
 
 
The reception area of my hotel.  I often give a quick look around when I  don't see my yellow bag.  Not to worry, it's in the luggage.   Actually, that luggage is not at all full, since I've left my BMW riding suit in  the Guzzi shop in Mandello for my next trip.  That's one less thing I'll  need to carry from now on.  Helmet, boots, and now riding suit are now  there for me.
 
 
 
The Duomo di Milano.  This plaza is always full; they're taking the same  photograph that I am.
 

 
The Galleria Vittorio Emanuel II.  It's not your ordinary suburbn  shopping mall.
 

 
The next morning, I'm catching the express train to Malpensa..
 
 
 
...where I'll board a United flight to Newark, New Jersey and then Houston,  Texas, before coming home.  Yes, I'll take one of those drinks.
 
 
 
Flying out over the Italian Po valley.
 

 
It felt good to return to Italy.  I'm especially glad to have  finally been able to spend time in the Pyrenees Mountains.  It's been a  great trip.

[AJ Huff]

Glad to see you back on here!

-AJ

[Guzzistajohn]

Good to see you here again Daniel! Spectacular report as usual!   

[Tusayan]

Great report!

I noticed your issues with US credit cards at gas stations in France.  I’ve had the same there and in Switzerland.  Did you ride any French Autoroutes?  I’ve been stuck at small Autoroute exits in the south where they take only credit cards, not cash, and don’t take US credit cards. I’m hoping that by the next time I’m at one of those exits, they will have sorted out the situation. One time I ended up paying somebody cash to get me ‘out of jail’ with their French credit card. The other time I was able to ride around the barrier!

[Daniel Kalal]

I noticed your issues with US credit cards at gas stations in France.  I’ve had the same there and in Switzerland.

It's a real problem!  In years past, I've had good luck with a Travelex Cash Card (issued out of the UK), but they've stopped supporting American customers and cancelled the card before I took this trip.  I avoided any tollways in France, but sometimes you need to fill up at a rural station that is not attended.  If there's an attendant, you're almost always going to be able to complete the transaction with that person even if the pumps refuse American cards.  Yes, I've had to pay somebody to use their card on several occasions.  It feels like you're begging even when paying them a premium.  I once gave 50 Euros for 20 Euros of fuel.

[Daniel Kalal]

they will have sorted out the situation

Don't count on this ever happening.  I've talked with a few folks at Visa and MasterCard (people high enough up who can do things) and they say it's not worth the expense to upgrade their domestic (US) customers to a true PIN and Chip card system.  We get Chip and Signature, which gets a good chuckle in France...

[Nick]

Thank you Daniel! Great ride report. 

[scra99tch]

Ahhh yes the Gelato, I could not stay away from that place last year.  Cheap and right near the water.

Nice Trip report, make me envious of my next one whenever that will be.  As of now going to do the National Parks with the family for the next few years.

[PJPR01]

Very enjoyable as always...travelling in style!

[Roebling3]

Daniel. Thank you ever so much.

It's been a long time since I lived there (60's). Then, in 1973 'til 2011; when I represented companies in Netherlands, France, Italy, Switzerland, plus the US.  I could borrow MCs from friends nearly every where I went.  To good to be true? I was so enamored with the friendships of hundreds I missed much of the beauty you have expressed. As many have said;' You can only go 'round once'.

I'll visit your wonderful photography many times. You have a generous soul, Danial.   Good fortune,  R3~

[Texas Turnip]

Thanks for taking this former high mileage Guzzi rider on your trip. Keep 'em coming.
Tex

[LowRyter]

 

[Sykestone8886]

Thoroughly enjoyed your trip report, beautiful scenery!!

[Ncdan]

I took my time going through the pictures and reading the information, one at a time.
These type of riding reviews are really great for us that will never get the chance to actually see all these wonderful places the planet had to offer.
Thanks you for taking your time to share this adventure with the members of the Wild Guzzi Forum.
I, for one, really enjoyed it!

Dan

[lazlokovacs]

great stuff!

I think you went right past my place. I'm in the french basque country, not far from the border with 'spain'

[pebra]

Wonderful - a true Tour de France! Thanks, Daniel.

Brought memories of my own trip around France; by Citroën back in 1998.

[nick949]

Wonderful, enviable tour. Great photos. Thanks Daniel.

Nick

[Pescatore]

Great pictures.  I appreciate the map you posted.  Very useful.

I'm curious about where you left your gear.  You know the shop owner?
Sounds like you're going back soon.

[Scout63]

Wonderful pictures and descriptions. Thanks so much for sharing it.  I would be happy to ride just one leg of this tour.

[Huzo]

Thanks for taking this former high mileage Guzzi rider on your trip. Keep 'em coming.
Tex

Tex.
There is no such thing as a former high mileage rider, it’s like being a former boxer.
You always will be and still are…

[Daniel Kalal]

I'm curious about where you left your gear.  You know the shop owner

My gear is with Agostini-Mandello Moto Guzzi.  I've been going there from the time Alis Agostini ran the shop (after being founded by her father, Duilio).  It is now owned by Alberto Agliati.  This was my 23rd trip, which fact astounds me.  I've got a large blue bag in the back that's full of things I'll need on every trip, which saves all the bother of lugging my helmet and boots each time (and now includes a riding suit).  Lake Como is as good a place as any to start a ride in Europe.  Milan is an easy train away, and there are plenty of flights to Malpensa Airport.

There are many excellent ways to ride in Europe; this works for me.

[chuck peterson]

  Absolutely amazing Daniel! Guzzi should just put you on the payroll to do what you do here…thanks

[9fingers]

That was and amazing trip! Thank you for taking the time to photograph and post.
Scott

[adaven]

Absolutely amazing Daniel! Guzzi should just put you on the payroll to do what you do here…thanks

The EU, too. You explain the charm and the quirks of traveling in southern Europe beautifully. And the scenery...what a joy to be able to ride in the Pyrenees

[bmc5733946]

I envy your ability to keep a remarkably svelte figure with all those pastries in evidence. I would have a difficult time resisting many of those! Thanks for sharing your trip and unique perspective Daniel.

Brian

[DC950]

thanks very much for writing this up.