Oil leak question V100

[Clifton]

This is on a 2024 V100 Stelvio with about 8,000 miles. I have recently noticed it leaving a small amount of oil when parked. I can see "about" where it's coming from but not exactly. It's on the left side behind the kickstand. There is a drain/breather hose there but it doesn't seem to have oil at the end.

Almost 1,000 miles back I changed the oil letting it drain overnight then put in 5 qts (slightly less than 4.9L that's called for) and new filter. It's not coming from the drain plug of filter cover. Checking the oil level is a little tricky. Upright and cold the level is over the full mark on the dipstick. But checking it as they say, which is check it upright a few seconds after being ridden and shut off, it's right between the add and full marks.

I'll be letting the dealer look at it when I get a chance but just wondered if anyone has heard of this on this motor? I've heard of some coolant leaks but not oil.

[azccj]

There are 2 drain hoses in that area of the bike. One comes from the charcoal canister which doesn't contain any oil, and the other hose attaches to a drain for the cavity between the oil and water seals of the water pump. If the oil is coming from the water pump then it indicates the water pump oil seal is leaking. In order to replace that $7.00 oil seal the back half of the engine/transmission needs to come off, no way around it. Which most likely means the engine needs to be removed from the bike. A very big job that I wouldn't want done on my bike, for fear of it not being put back together correctly after the seal is replaced. Hopefully that's not where the oil is coming from.

[Clifton]

There are 2 drain hoses in that area of the bike. One comes from the charcoal canister which doesn't contain any oil, and the other hose attaches to a drain for the cavity between the oil and water seals of the water pump. If the oil is coming from the water pump then it indicates the water pump oil seal is leaking.......

That would be the one in the image (second picture)?

[azccj]

This is the water pump seals hose, the hose which is circled in blue. Follow it to it's end and see if the oil is coming from that hose.

[Clifton]

OK thanks. I'll run the bike (after I clean it up again) and keep an eye on that hose.

[Clifton]

It's not coming from the water pump hose, rather somewhere a little forward and behind the side stand pivot. Appoint made to let the dealer sort it out.

[MGrego]

Thanks for the update, keep us posted.

I read another account of an oil leak on the new V100 engine, all it required was a re-torqueing of one of the engine case bolts.  Hopefully something as simple going on here.

[MG_rider]

I've seen minor leak like that on v100 mandello, 5800 miles.  Small drip on black plastic sidestand cover. Went over all the case bolts I could reach,seems to have stopped.

[Moparnut72]

I had a minor seep on mine. A couple of the pan bolts needed a snugging. Nothing since. My 6,000 mile service is due I will go over the whole bike then.
kk

[Clifton]

Thanks and good to hear that snugging up a few bolts stopped your leaks. I hope that's all that's needed on mine, but none of the ones I could reach were loose so it's going to the dealer in a week and they can check everything..

[Racer242]

My Stelvio has an oil leak and it's likely been that way since day 1, mile 1 although, It took about 1500 miles of riding to be sure (now sitting at 7000 miles).  Just after the first service I noticed the typical coolant leak at the junction above the water pump.  I also thought there was some oil in the mix but couldn't be sure since both fluids are pink and slippery.  The dealer replaced the hose clamp and I thought all was well, took the bike home and gave it a thorough degreasing and power washing.  A LOT OF LIQUID CRUD WASHED OFF/OUT OF THAT ENGINE!  I thought all would now be good. 

About 700-800 miles later I again noticed fluid under the water pump and on the other side under the alternator only this time it wasn't pink, more like a toasted red.  Could this be oil? It wasn't much, maybe 2 or 3 cc's.  I cleaned it up thinking it might still be some residual from the previous leak that got kind of cooked.  From there on out, every day after my commute to work (100 miles round trip) more dark red fluid, now identified as oil, was seen under the water pump and the alternator.  At about 3000 miles, I decided to find the source.

I removed all of the body panels, fuel tank, air box and the throttle bodies.  I discovered that the entire valley was filled with oil.  What I was finding under the water pump and alternator was just the newly leaked oil that had made it's way over all of the little "dams" that occupy the valley under the throttles and the thermostat assembly.  So where was it originating?  As I stated cleaning, I carefully noted how far forward and how high up the oil had been deposited.  The high oil line was higher on the right side and further forward, we should be getting somewhere now.  I noted that there is a fluid drain on the bottom of the air box on the right side, just above the highest oil stain.  I also noted that, on removing the right throttle body, it had more oil mist than the left side.  My thought was that maybe the oil level was too high (from the dealer oil change) and excess oil was being sucked in to the air box, accumulating there and then dripping out in to the valley.  I opened the air box "hoping" to find lots of oil but alas, other than the finest misting, it was oil free.

There had to be something leaking on the right side and high enough for there to be an oil stain on the head.  I removed the right side valve cover.  The gasket was firmly in place and dry all the way around.  I noticed that there was a large brass plug on the front inside corner of the head, later determined to be the cam chain tensioner.  It looked dry but it was in the right position to be the source of my leak.  I tested it for tightness and while I didn't have a torque spec, it wasn't loose.  At this point, I noted an accumulation of oil on a tiny lip of the head gasket that occupied an indent in the head between the main body and what I would call the cam chain box.  This little indent is only about 2 cm x 1.5 cm roughly but it had oil on it.  Note that this little ledge sits at 45 degrees to ground level.  But, why would there be oil here? 

I next dug deep in to the engine shop manual and found that the oil feeds for the heads are in the vicinity of that area of the head.  I also found that the left side feed has a flow restrictor in the block and the right side does not.  I also learned that the big brass plug, which I had previously tightened is the cap for an oil pressurized chain tensioner.  What I now guessed w



as happening was that the head gasket was leaking in the area of the high pressure oil feed.  I wasn't fully convinced and still hoped that maybe it was just an overfilling of oil but with nothing else to go with, I put it all back together.  At least it was all clean and any new leak would be easier to see.

Rode to work the following Monday and about 20 minutes in to my commute, while at a light, I could smell oil cooking off of a hot engine.  That night, after I got home, I let the engine cool and got out my bore scope and this is what I found.  What you are seeing is a view from the top right looking inward and down at the little indent in the head.  The silver floor is the head gasket, exposed between the main body of the head on the right side and the cam chain box on the left.  I fashioned a cleaning wand with a bent coat hanger with some shop towel taped to the end.  Fishing that under the tank and over the valve cover, I could get it down to the that little ledge and beyond, in to the valley.  I found oil on the ledge but not in the valley so pretty sure at this point that I have a leaking head gasket.  That was at about mile 3800 and I am now at 7000.  Every day after work or after every 100 miles of riding, I get out my cleaning wand and soak up about 1-2 cc's of oil.  The 7500 mile service is scheduled and I already talked to the tech about this.  It's minor disappointment but otherwise, the bike has been an absolute joy to ride and own.

[Huzo]

This is on a 2024 V100 Stelvio with about 8,000 miles. I have recently noticed it leaving a small amount of oil when parked. I can see "about" where it's coming from but not exactly. It's on the left side behind the kickstand. There is a drain/breather hose there but it doesn't seem to have oil at the end.

Almost 1,000 miles back I changed the oil letting it drain overnight then put in 5 qts (slightly less than 4.9L that's called for) and new filter. It's not coming from the drain plug of filter cover. Checking the oil level is a little tricky. Upright and cold the level is over the full mark on the dipstick. But checking it as they say, which is check it upright a few seconds after being ridden and shut off, it's right between the add and full marks.

I'll be letting the dealer look at it when I get a chance but just wondered if anyone has heard of this on this motor? I've heard of some coolant leaks but not oil.

That looks pretty dark for oil, more like the condensed oil mist/water vapour combination that drains from the intake box.

[Clifton]

Racer you were certainly very thorough in tracing your leak.

Huzo I think you're referring to a dark stain on the lift that was already present. There is some oil on the stain as well but in the 3rd image look to the right of the dark stain and you'll see almost clear, fresh oil. That's what's leaking out not anything dark.

[azccj]

My Stelvio has an oil leak and it's likely been that way since day 1, mile 1 although, It took about 1500 miles of riding to be sure (now sitting at 7000 miles).  Just after the first service I noticed the typical coolant leak at the junction above the water pump.  I also thought there was some oil in the mix but couldn't be sure since both fluids are pink and slippery.  The dealer replaced the hose clamp and I thought all was well, took the bike home and gave it a thorough degreasing and power washing.  A LOT OF LIQUID CRUD WASHED OFF/OUT OF THAT ENGINE!  I thought all would now be good. 

About 700-800 miles later I again noticed fluid under the water pump and on the other side under the alternator only this time it wasn't pink, more like a toasted red.  Could this be oil? It wasn't much, maybe 2 or 3 cc's.  I cleaned it up thinking it might still be some residual from the previous leak that got kind of cooked.  From there on out, every day after my commute to work (100 miles round trip) more dark red fluid, now identified as oil, was seen under the water pump and the alternator.  At about 3000 miles, I decided to find the source.

I removed all of the body panels, fuel tank, air box and the throttle bodies.  I discovered that the entire valley was filled with oil.  What I was finding under the water pump and alternator was just the newly leaked oil that had made it's way over all of the little "dams" that occupy the valley under the throttles and the thermostat assembly.  So where was it originating?  As I stated cleaning, I carefully noted how far forward and how high up the oil had been deposited.  The high oil line was higher on the right side and further forward, we should be getting somewhere now.  I noted that there is a fluid drain on the bottom of the air box on the right side, just above the highest oil stain.  I also noted that, on removing the right throttle body, it had more oil mist than the left side.  My thought was that maybe the oil level was too high (from the dealer oil change) and excess oil was being sucked in to the air box, accumulating there and then dripping out in to the valley.  I opened the air box "hoping" to find lots of oil but alas, other than the finest misting, it was oil free.

There had to be something leaking on the right side and high enough for there to be an oil stain on the head.  I removed the right side valve cover.  The gasket was firmly in place and dry all the way around.  I noticed that there was a large brass plug on the front inside corner of the head, later determined to be the cam chain tensioner.  It looked dry but it was in the right position to be the source of my leak.  I tested it for tightness and while I didn't have a torque spec, it wasn't loose.  At this point, I noted an accumulation of oil on a tiny lip of the head gasket that occupied an indent in the head between the main body and what I would call the cam chain box.  This little indent is only about 2 cm x 1.5 cm roughly but it had oil on it.  Note that this little ledge sits at 45 degrees to ground level.  But, why would there be oil here? 

I next dug deep in to the engine shop manual and found that the oil feeds for the heads are in the vicinity of that area of the head.  I also found that the left side feed has a flow restrictor in the block and the right side does not.  I also learned that the big brass plug, which I had previously tightened is the cap for an oil pressurized chain tensioner.  What I now guessed w



as happening was that the head gasket was leaking in the area of the high pressure oil feed.  I wasn't fully convinced and still hoped that maybe it was just an overfilling of oil but with nothing else to go with, I put it all back together.  At least it was all clean and any new leak would be easier to see.

Rode to work the following Monday and about 20 minutes in to my commute, while at a light, I could smell oil cooking off of a hot engine.  That night, after I got home, I let the engine cool and got out my bore scope and this is what I found.  What you are seeing is a view from the top right looking inward and down at the little indent in the head.  The silver floor is the head gasket, exposed between the main body of the head on the right side and the cam chain box on the left.  I fashioned a cleaning wand with a bent coat hanger with some shop towel taped to the end.  Fishing that under the tank and over the valve cover, I could get it down to the that little ledge and beyond, in to the valley.  I found oil on the ledge but not in the valley so pretty sure at this point that I have a leaking head gasket.  That was at about mile 3800 and I am now at 7000.  Every day after work or after every 100 miles of riding, I get out my cleaning wand and soak up about 1-2 cc's of oil.  The 7500 mile service is scheduled and I already talked to the tech about this.  It's minor disappointment but otherwise, the bike has been an absolute joy to ride and own.

Great job tracking down the leak. Hopefully it will be fixed correctly and it's a straight forward head gasket replacement. Oddly there are 4 different thicknesses for the head gaskets listed in the parts diagram, and which one gets used is determined by measuring the difference between the top of the crankcase and the top of the piston.

[blu guzz]

Racer 242:  I noticed that this was your first post.  Welcome and thanks for that very well written and reasoned analysis.  More posts from you would be very helpful to the rest of the group as these v100 bikes make their way into our group. 

[Racer242]

Four head gasket thicknesses, this could very well be the issue.   I am not a power train engineer so please correct anything that I say or surmise.  I believe this engine is what is referred to as a "wet liner" type.  The bores are a press fit in the block and removable (although I don't believe replaceable). The height of the liner relative to the rest of the block deck would be a critical measurement and the various head gaskets must compensate for that. 

My brain capacity to absorb much more of the engine manual is limited but from what I have seen so far, this is a very, very sophisticated engine.  Wet liner engines are F1 stuff, oil fed chain tensioners are used on high end euro cars.  If you're curious, remove your air filter and look down at the throttle bores.  This engine is capable of producing far more power. 

[azccj]

Four head gasket thicknesses, this could very well be the issue.   I am not a power train engineer so please correct anything that I say or surmise.  I believe this engine is what is referred to as a "wet liner" type.  The bores are a press fit in the block and removable (although I don't believe replaceable). The height of the liner relative to the rest of the block deck would be a critical measurement and the various head gaskets must compensate for that. 

My brain capacity to absorb much more of the engine manual is limited but from what I have seen so far, this is a very, very sophisticated engine.  Wet liner engines are F1 stuff, oil fed chain tensioners are used on high end euro cars.  If you're curious, remove your air filter and look down at the throttle bores.  This engine is capable of producing far more power.

Wet liners are nothing new for engines, my last Triumph motorcycle used them. The same for oil fed tensioners. I think most of the bikes I've owned for the last 20 years have had oil fed tensioners.

You are correct that the cylinder liner is not replaceable. In fact if you damage a liner, left or right, you need to buy a whole new crankcase assembly, which I'm sure isn't going to be cheap. I suspect the reason the liners aren't available to purchase is because during manufacturing they are inserted into the crankcase, then the top of the crankcase along with the fitted liners are machined perfectly flat. I also suspect that because of this the top of the liners along with the crankcase actually sit below the height of the piston at TDC, hence the reason for the different thicknesses of head gaskets, so the pistons don't smack into the cylinder head.

This new MG liquid cooled engine isn't like the simple MG engines of the past. With the air cooled engines if you dropped a valve you could fix the engine yourself with a new jug, cylinder head, piston and required gaskets, all while the engine still sat in the frame and within a few hours. Drop a valve on this new liquid cooled engine and the cylinder liner gets damaged, you're buying a new crankcase assembly, a new cylinder head assembly, piston, and all kinds of gaskets..... minimum. I can only guess how long the bike would be down waiting for parts from MG, and how much it would all cost if the bike is out of warranty. Maybe that's why when a few V100 engines did have major mechanical failures, MG just replaced the complete engines under warranty instead of rebuilding them.

There is no doubt that the V100 Mandello is the hot rod in the Guzzi world. I just don't know if the extra power is worth all it's extreme engine complexity and cost of maintaining it, as well as the potential extreme cost should it break.

[Racer242]

Here is the latest on my oil leak.  I took the bike in for the 7500 mile service, pointed out the oil leak and explained my reasoning as to why I think it's a bad head gasket.  I understand the reticence of a dealer tech to believe ANYTHING that the customer says so it came as no shock when he said, "we'll look at it and let you know". One month later,,, I pick up the bike and they had replaced the oil pressure sensor.  The tech stated that Piaggio had yet to see a bad head gasket but had seen leaking sender units.  While that may be true, it doesn't explain how a fitting in the valley could lead to oil accumulated higher up on the block.  Sure enough, within 100 mikes of riding, I could smell the oil cooking.  Now, with about 7800 miles, the bike is back at the shop for the same oil leak and its third warranty service.  Given that it's been leaking since day one and this is the third time in the shop, my enchantment with this bike is over.  I'll give them one more chance to fix this and then I'll take my loss and move on.  Of the 30 or so bikes I have owned, only two have ever been in to the dealer for service.  The first was a 2015 Triumph Thruxton which got one chance at warranty service before I traded it on and now this Stelvio, on its third warranty claim in one year. 

I love the looks of this bike and it's joy to ride.  I so much want to make this work out but my confidence in it being reliable and free of long term issues is about gone.  There are too many stories of V100's "burping" coolant.  Water cooled engines can hiss if they over heat but they only burp when they blow a head gasket. My oil leak and the other coolant issues lead me to believe that there are flaws with the head gasket sealing properties of this engine.

[Huzo]

Jeeez, you guys DO NOT deserve this.
I would have had a Stelvio by now, but it’s stuff like this that made me wait…I’m going out to pat my ditch pump Norge on the bum.
Good luck you guys, y’all deserve better… 

[Tkelly]

You may have a lemon law case,check with a lawyer who specializes in that area.

[blu guzz]

I am sure that this engine went through a great deal of testing and was computer analyzed before it was released to the public.  But it just goes to show that unfortunately for the owner, the only real test is on the road in the hands of regular riders.  I don't run the company, but a better strategy would be for corporate to decide that they are going to do whatever they have to in order to have happy customers for these new machines.  Corporate would have to support the dealers to do so because the dealers can't absorb the cost alone.  For example, when the OP took the bike in the first time, they could have offered a loaner (they would have a few in the ideal world) and they should have then stripped the OPs bike down to really find the problem and not to apply a band-aid (pretty sure Corporate would not pay for this on a first visit as things stand).  As radical an idea as this sounds, it is similar to the strategy that Honda Cars used when they were attempting to crack the US market, but you can see that it would only succeed with Piaggio support.  Just a crazy thought on a rainy Thursday.

[Racer242]

Here is the latest update on my oil leak.  I delivered the bike to the dealer on February 1.  It took a month before they were authorized to removed the tank and air box.  The tech convinced Piaggo that this very likely was a leaking head gasket and they authorized removal.  The dealer kindly apprised me of this update.  Wishing to make this as easy as possible for the dealer to do a quick turn around, I offered that if they would order all three sizes of the right side head gasket, I would pay for the two he did not use.  I figured this would allow them to do a quick teardown and rebuild without having to wait on parts or take the bike off the stand.  Things were looking good when I got a text from the dealer on March 25 that my parts had arrived.  I was thinking, okay, maybe another month and it will be fixed.  I was down right elated when I saw on April 1 an incoming call from the dealer. 

Unfortunately, the news could hardly be worse.  The manager explained that there are gouges in the head exactly in the position of the oil passage. He sent me this picture





What you are looking at is the head face, intake side, forward corner.  The pear shaped hole is the oil passage, the narrow box to the right is the cam chain box.  The oil was leaking in the recess directly below the oil passage.    That recess is what is shown in the bore scope pictures in an earlier post.  It's as if a QC manager with a carbide tipped pen explained to an engine assembly tech,  "If you see a scratch HERE, it's going to leak oil".  It's really hard to image what happened to that head in the time from when it was faced, valves installed and dropped on a block.  No one saw this? 

The dealer explained that he would have to go to Piaggio to authorize a replacement cylinder head and even after that came in, they would again be waiting for valve shims.   The parts manual shows the head as an assembly with valves installed but no cams.  Without actually saying it, he hinted that this could be a very long process.  I thanked him for the update and actually apologized that he had to go through this.  I was trying to make his job easier and get my bike back faster but instead left him with a real poop fest.   

I read the prior thread from 2019 about the difficulties in dealing with Piaggo group with regard to warranty repairs.  I had big plans this summer to go on a five week trip with this bike.  I bought it in January 2024 knowing full well that there might be "some" warranty work required.  This has been a major disappointment.  My mind runs to all kinds of dark places like, do I continue paying for insurance, registration?  I took out a small loan (to exercise my credit as I have no other debt) and if it weren't for that loan, I'd consider giving up on it. 

Mentally, I am in a place where I just want this thing to be out of my life.  Responders here might (I hope?) say, keep your chin up, it will get fixed and all will be good.  Unfortunately, I really want to avoid not only confrontational relationships but also any moderately involve or complicated relationship.  I am getting close to retirement, I am in excellent health, kids doing well, beautiful grandchildren (with more on the way) and I had available a big block of paid time off.  I just wanted to go on a long motorcycle trip, by myself on a brand new unique and awesome bike. 

Okay, I got that off my chest.  Maybe I can stop obsessing over this bike.  It certainly would be easier if I didn't love riding it so dam much!

[Sykestone8886]

Man that’s a real bummer, I get your frustration!!

[Vagrant]

To the best of my knowledge, Ga. doesn't have a lemon law. But they should. I think it would be worth a couple of hundred bucks to have a lawyer send a letter asking for a replacement bike, seeing as it's been tied up so long and will remain tied up. At least a complete new engine.

[azccj]

Here is the latest update on my oil leak.  I delivered the bike to the dealer on February 1.  It took a month before they were authorized to removed the tank and air box.  The tech convinced Piaggo that this very likely was a leaking head gasket and they authorized removal.  The dealer kindly apprised me of this update.  Wishing to make this as easy as possible for the dealer to do a quick turn around, I offered that if they would order all three sizes of the right side head gasket, I would pay for the two he did not use.  I figured this would allow them to do a quick teardown and rebuild without having to wait on parts or take the bike off the stand.  Things were looking good when I got a text from the dealer on March 25 that my parts had arrived.  I was thinking, okay, maybe another month and it will be fixed.  I was down right elated when I saw on April 1 an incoming call from the dealer. 

Unfortunately, the news could hardly be worse.  The manager explained that there are gouges in the head exactly in the position of the oil passage. He sent me this picture





What you are looking at is the head face, intake side, forward corner.  The pear shaped hole is the oil passage, the narrow box to the right is the cam chain box.  The oil was leaking in the recess directly below the oil passage.    That recess is what is shown in the bore scope pictures in an earlier post.  It's as if a QC manager with a carbide tipped pen explained to an engine assembly tech,  "If you see a scratch HERE, it's going to leak oil".  It's really hard to image what happened to that head in the time from when it was faced, valves installed and dropped on a block.  No one saw this? 

The dealer explained that he would have to go to Piaggio to authorize a replacement cylinder head and even after that came in, they would again be waiting for valve shims.   The parts manual shows the head as an assembly with valves installed but no cams.  Without actually saying it, he hinted that this could be a very long process.  I thanked him for the update and actually apologized that he had to go through this.  I was trying to make his job easier and get my bike back faster but instead left him with a real poop fest.   

I read the prior thread from 2019 about the difficulties in dealing with Piaggo group with regard to warranty repairs.  I had big plans this summer to go on a five week trip with this bike.  I bought it in January 2024 knowing full well that there might be "some" warranty work required.  This has been a major disappointment.  My mind runs to all kinds of dark places like, do I continue paying for insurance, registration?  I took out a small loan (to exercise my credit as I have no other debt) and if it weren't for that loan, I'd consider giving up on it. 

Mentally, I am in a place where I just want this thing to be out of my life.  Responders here might (I hope?) say, keep your chin up, it will get fixed and all will be good.  Unfortunately, I really want to avoid not only confrontational relationships but also any moderately involve or complicated relationship.  I am getting close to retirement, I am in excellent health, kids doing well, beautiful grandchildren (with more on the way) and I had available a big block of paid time off.  I just wanted to go on a long motorcycle trip, by myself on a brand new unique and awesome bike. 

Okay, I got that off my chest.  Maybe I can stop obsessing over this bike.  It certainly would be easier if I didn't love riding it so dam much!

I know this is a bummer for you, but your mechanic should have no problem stopping that oil leak where that scratch is, especially if that is an oil return hole. Even if it's pressurized, I would think a little JB weld and then some light sanding would do the trick. I really hope you get this taken care of ASAP.

[Racer242]

I get the JB weld thing , that's exactly how I would fix this if I had bought it as a used bike, out of warranty.  There is nothing critical or structural going on in that area.  It is a pressurized passage, at full oil pressure.  The right side head has the cam chain tensioner in the head and from what I can tell, unrestricted oil pressure passes through that port and supplies full pressure to the cam chain tensioner.  On the top side of the head, below the towers that mount the cams, there is an oil flow restrictor.  It's the opposite on the left side bank, the can chain tensioner is in the block and the oil restrictor is on the top of the block, below the cylinder head.  Reduced oil pressure is flowing through the passage on the left side head. 

It was leaking about a quart in 5000 miles.  That might be tolerable if it were going on the ground under the bike but, this was going in to the valley and it would accumulate and manifest itself under the alternator and water pump.  By the time you see it under the alternator, there was around a cup in the valley. 

Maybe my expectations are twisted but,,,, If I CHOSE to do a JB weld repair on my bike, I can live with that.  I can't reconcile someone else doing a JB weld repair on my bike, especially one still under warranty and the issue was a manufactures defect.  It would be different if I had wadded this bike and cracked some aluminum casting.  I used to race a KTM RC390, that engine had so many JB weld repairs. The right side engine/swing arm mount was held on with JB weld.  The large hole in the bottom of the crank case, more JB weld.  Me crashes, me fixes! 

As far as leverage with Piaggio, Georgia Lemon Law specifically excludes motorcycles.  I don't think an attorney would provide any relief.  Involve an attorney and what could have been answered with an email or on a call now takes a letter and you get billed for it.  Like I said in my previous post, this is really disappointing and depressing.  I am not going to resort to disparaging comments about Piaggio, it is what it is.  It's not like I am the first person to relate a story like this.  I can even find some humor in this.  Sometime in August or so, I'll post up a For Sale 2024 Stelvio - low miles, all factory options, Don't buy new at $17,000 when you can have this bike for $20,000 with all post production quality check and repairs completed.

[ridingron]

I seriously doubt a dealer mechanic would be allowed to make that repair especially on a bike still under warranty.   

The obvious question is how did the part get through QA/QC? But it is a Guzzi so no surprise here. Why it isn't a no questions ask warranty repair is beyond me. Does Piaggio think this was not a manufacturing fault but that the customer did it?  Kinda falls under the old saying about how to win enemies and influence friends.

[AJ Huff]

Your dealer needs to tell Piagio those are casting defects. I see at least 3.

-AJ

[azccj]

I get the JB weld thing , that's exactly how I would fix this if I had bought it as a used bike, out of warranty.  There is nothing critical or structural going on in that area.  It is a pressurized passage, at full oil pressure.  The right side head has the cam chain tensioner in the head and from what I can tell, unrestricted oil pressure passes through that port and supplies full pressure to the cam chain tensioner.  On the top side of the head, below the towers that mount the cams, there is an oil flow restrictor.  It's the opposite on the left side bank, the can chain tensioner is in the block and the oil restrictor is on the top of the block, below the cylinder head.  Reduced oil pressure is flowing through the passage on the left side head. 

It was leaking about a quart in 5000 miles.  That might be tolerable if it were going on the ground under the bike but, this was going in to the valley and it would accumulate and manifest itself under the alternator and water pump.  By the time you see it under the alternator, there was around a cup in the valley. 

Maybe my expectations are twisted but,,,, If I CHOSE to do a JB weld repair on my bike, I can live with that.  I can't reconcile someone else doing a JB weld repair on my bike, especially one still under warranty and the issue was a manufactures defect.  It would be different if I had wadded this bike and cracked some aluminum casting.  I used to race a KTM RC390, that engine had so many JB weld repairs. The right side engine/swing arm mount was held on with JB weld.  The large hole in the bottom of the crank case, more JB weld.  Me crashes, me fixes! 

As far as leverage with Piaggio, Georgia Lemon Law specifically excludes motorcycles.  I don't think an attorney would provide any relief.  Involve an attorney and what could have been answered with an email or on a call now takes a letter and you get billed for it.  Like I said in my previous post, this is really disappointing and depressing.  I am not going to resort to disparaging comments about Piaggio, it is what it is.  It's not like I am the first person to relate a story like this.  I can even find some humor in this.  Sometime in August or so, I'll post up a For Sale 2024 Stelvio - low miles, all factory options, Don't buy new at $17,000 when you can have this bike for $20,000 with all post production quality check and repairs completed.

Don't get me wrong. I 100% think this should be taken care of by MG/Piaggio. But how long is that going to take, 3-5 months? I'm just saying that you have all the parts there at the MG shop to fix it, + 15 cents of JB weld, and the problem would be solved, most likely for the life of the bike.

[Moparnut72]

I agree that a repair with JB Weld would do the repair, that is what I would do. However I would use a product called Marine Tex. It is very similar to JB but I believe even tougher. I know of guys who have used it to reshape ports on two stroke outboards. I recommended to my boss when I worked in the aircraft shop when we had a similar situation on an unobtainable part on a radial. He was a very knowledgeable guy yet was amazed at how tough it was. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
kk