I need to remove a Throttlemeister (stuck bolt)

[nikwax]

I'm in the process of installing Koso heated grips on my Breva 1100. Wiring is in place, left grip wasn't too hard to install (if I'm perfectly honest, it was a total PITA to get the grip all the way on). I've run into a massive problem with the right grip: in attempting to remove the bolt holding the bar end weight in place, I discovered that the right bar end weight is in fact a Throttlemeister throttle lock, and, that the bolt holding it in place is frozen. After having the head cam out, and having no better luck with a Torx bit, I took vice grips to the head of the bolt, and managed to pull the bolt and whatever it is attached to about 1/4" out from the handlebar. It occurred to me that this may be destructive to the handlebar, and I asked about this on Advrider, one inmate replied that he'd had to do the same thing and I could just keep working on the bolt with the vice grips to pull it out, then disassemble, replace the bolt, and reassemble.

I'm still nervous that I would do something destructive, don't really fancy riding without a bar end weight, so I visited my local shop. The mechanic basically went through what I've done with the Torx driver and vice grips, same result. He then poured some penetrating oil into the bolt threads, advised to keep at it with penetrating oil. Also said I could drill the bolt out with a bit slightly smaller than the bolt to remove it, but the drill bit would have to be very long and narrow to do so.

I then thought, well, worst case, I could replace the handle bar and reassemble the controls on it. Looks like the part (GU05600230) is about 80 Euros, and several weeks to reach me.

All this for a heated grip...


Anyway, question: has anyone had to forcefully remove a bar end weight bolt, and if so, what do I need to know?

[Huzo]

If it’s the same as a Norge, then yes.
Drill the head off the bolt, take all the dross off the ‘bar and put the ‘bar in the vice. You’ll have to put some compression on the bolt remainder after making sure it is not applying any tension, that is what expands the innards when it’s working correctly.

[Perazzimx14]

It is likley heat is your friend. Attached is a phoo of the Throttlemeister kit and that tube is blue thread compound is probably what is fighting you.

[Moparnut72]

A heat gun was one of my best friends when I worked in the aircraft shop. Wore out a couple of them. But what you are working on probably won't do much good. I would soak it with Liquid Wrench or equivalent as your mechanic said. If you do drill it out use a left handed drill bit.
kk

[Perazzimx14]

A heat gun was one of my best friends when I worked in the aircraft shop. Wore out a couple of them. But what you are working on probably won't do much good. I would soak it with Liquid Wrench or equivalent as your mechanic said. If you do drill it out use a left handed drill bit.
kk

Penetrating oils unfortunately don't seem to do much good at weaking thread lock compound. I batteled a bolt yeaterday that had red thread compound on it for over an hour with heat (not a good place to heat) penetrating earl and a cheater and in the end drilled the head off and punched it through. Put the nut and what was left of the bolt in the vise and it was still dogfast. Hit it with a rosebud for about 30 seconds and the fastner backed out by hand.

[Moparnut72]

I hate thread locker and other sealants and adhesives with a passion. When I worked in the aircraft shop one of my duties was to tear down and clean parts when an engine came in for overhaul.  Another shop somewhere used what I believe to be Yamaha Bond or something similar to assemble the engines they did, we got one every once in a while. They were the most miserable things to take apart, main cases were the worst. I was always afraid a case would break with the unbelievable amount of force the puller would be putting on them. Main cases were matched and for an old radials would be thousands to be replaced. On top of that it was miserable stuff to remove, heat, paint remover and scrapers all had to be used. On top of that the owner wound up with a higher bill due to all the extra hours involved.
kk

[nikwax]

I should have mentioned that I've already applied heat via both a heat gun and a pencil torch. I didn't see any thread lock on the left side bolt (which came off relatively easily), but that is not to say there isn't any on the right side.

[nikwax]

A heat gun was one of my best friends when I worked in the aircraft shop. Wore out a couple of them. But what you are working on probably won't do much good. I would soak it with Liquid Wrench or equivalent as your mechanic said. If you do drill it out use a left handed drill bit.
kk

tell me more about the left handed drill bit?

[nikwax]

It is likley heat is your friend. Attached is a phoo of the Throttlemeister kit and that tube is blue thread compound is probably what is fighting you.

that photo is incredibly helpful! Seeing the fudnut that is in the handlebar really helps.

Also, fricking Locktite, argh.

[pehayes]

tell me more about the left handed drill bit?

Most people never  heard of such a thing and think it is a joke.  Any good machine tooling supplier (even Amazon) will sell you individual bits or kits in a variety of sizes.
A left handed drill bit is identical to a right handed bit albeit it spirals in the opposite direction and has its cutting edges in the opposite direction.
You drill a hole the same logical way with either bit,  you just spin it in the other direction.
The hope is that somewhere along the way this left handed drill bit is going to grab or snag on the faulty part.  If that happens it may just stop drilling and then spin out the entire faulty bolt item.  Bob's your uncle.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[Moparnut72]

Even my local hardware store sells them. If you pick a size just under the size of the bolt a good chance that as you get near the end the shell of the bolt will spin out.
kk

[Perazzimx14]

that photo is incredibly helpful! Seeing the fudnut that is in the handlebar really helps.

Also, fricking Locktite, argh.

Thread lock compound need to be heated seveal hundred+ degrees to get it softened. Red thread isaround 500 degrees before it'll soften A pencil toruch may or may not have enough ass to get the fastener hot enough. Also remember you need the threads to be heated to 200+ that meand the head of the fastner where you are aplying th eheat may be much higher. I will say almost important as the heat source is an IR thermometer to help manage the heat in and around the surrrouning areas.

I hate thread locker and other sealants and adhesives with a passion. When I worked in the aircraft shop one of my duties was to tear down and clean parts when an engine came in for overhaul.  Another shop somewhere used what I believe to be Yamaha Bond or something similar to assemble the engines they did, we got one every once in a while. They were the most miserable things to take apart, main cases were the worst. I was always afraid a case would break with the unbelievable amount of force the puller would be putting on them. Main cases were matched and for an old radials would be thousands to be replaced. On top of that it was miserable stuff to remove, heat, paint remover and scrapers all had to be used. On top of that the owner wound up with a higher bill due to all the extra hours involved.
kk

I'm with you on thread compound and also torque wrenches to some degree. Both of these things are the casue of billions of broken and/or stripped fastners.

 

[nikwax]

Thread lock compound need to be heated seveal hundred+ degrees to get it softened. Red thread isaround 500 degrees before it'll soften A pencil toruch may or may not have enough ass to get the fastener hot enough. Also remember you need the threads to be heated to 200+ that meand the head of the fastner where you are aplying th eheat may be much higher. I will say almost important as the heat source is an IR thermometer to help manage the heat in and around the surrrouning areas.

I'm with you on thread compound and also torque wrenches to some degree. Both of these things are the casue of billions of broken and/or stripped fastners.

 

yeah, the massive bar end weight is sinking a lot of heat, not to mention the paint is coming off.