Fuel level sensor plug vs. electric petcock plug

[nwguy]

I foolishly didn't identify which plug was plugged into my fuel level sensor before unplugging it when removing my tank. Is there a way to tell which is which? I seem to remember reading a thread about this but I can't find it. This is on my 1999 Bassa.

[n3303j]

Correct plug should have the red band that matches its mate on the harness. On my '98 V11EV the red band is on the fuel petcock.

[nwguy]

Correct plug should have the red band that matches its mate on the harness. On my '98 V11EV the red band is on the fuel petcock.

I have a manual petcock. Here's a pic of the fuel level sensor plug from the tank:






So it's likely that it's the one without the red band?

[n3303j]

If in doubt put the voltmeter on the harness side plug and turn on the key. 12V is the petcock. Less is the logic circuit for fuel sensing.

[Kiwi_Roy]

If in doubt put the voltmeter on the harness side plug and turn on the key. 12V is the petcock. Less is the logic circuit for fuel sensing.

Yes, you don't want to get them mixed or you could burn out the expensive Fuel Level Sensor. It will burn out if the fuel is Low

[pehayes]

Ah, yes.  Brilliant engineering design out of Italy.  This ranks right up there with the early Norge fairing covering the dipstick.

Two identical plugs, side by side.  One set with a color band located some distance away from the plug itself.
They could have used two different plugs.
They could have inverted one pair so it would be impossible to cross-connect.
They could have put both wires into one 'triple' plug.
Bella Figura.  More concerned about form vs. function.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[nwguy]

It'll be a while before I get the battery back in and be able to run it, but I'll plan to measure the voltage once I reach that stage. I'm going to reveal my ignorance here, but to measure as you say Ron, you put the leads from the multimeter in the 2 slots in the plug coming from harness? Does polarity matter (which slot the leads are in)?

RE: expensive fuel sensor, yeah I looked them up. Hard to find and wildly expensive when you do.

[pehayes]

but I'll plan to measure the voltage once I reach that stage.

Have you checked for the red color heat shrink bands?  You should find two: one on the tank wires and the other on the frame harness wires.  They should be within an inch or two of the plugs.  Clearly shows in the picture you posted with two wires in your hand.

If  you wish to measure, then both are DC circuits and polarity will not matter.  Your meter will display "+" volts or "-" volts depending.  You don't care about the +/- just the absolute numbers  you measure.  The electric petcock should display around 12 volts.  The fuel level wire should display around 5 volts.  If  you are using an old school needle instrument, the needle might deflect the wrong way.  Just reverse your probes.  If  you have a more-modern digital display then ignore the +/- and just view the number.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[nwguy]

I have a new multimeter being delivered by Saturday. I think I can figure thins out from what you've described. Thank you.

[Wayne Orwig]

If in doubt put the voltmeter on the harness side plug and turn on the key. 12V is the petcock. Less is the logic circuit for fuel sensing.

This will not work.

12 volts goes to the solenoid.
12 volts also goes to the dashboard lamp then to the sensor. It will also measure 12 volts at the plug. If you are desperate, pull the bulb out of the dashboard and get zero volts at the correct sensor plug.

Look on the wire 'accordion' cover. Far away from the plug will be red paint or no red paint. If the sensor has the red paint on the cable cover, then match it to the red paint one in the harness. If the sensor does NOT have red paint, match it to the plug with no paint.

[ridingron]

Ah, yes.  Brilliant engineering design out of Italy.  This ranks right up there with the early Norge fairing covering the dipstick.

Two identical plugs, side by side.  One set with a color band located some distance away from the plug itself.
They could have used two different plugs.
They could have inverted one pair so it would be impossible to cross-connect.
They could have put both wires into one 'triple' plug.
Bella Figura.  More concerned about form vs. function.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

 
My thoughts are to put the 4 wires into a 4 pin connector. The 4 wires connection can't be messed up because the 2 connectors ends only go together one way.

 But since they all ready have the 2 pin connectors, putting a red stripe on on connector was probably cheaper and easier than sourcing a 4 pin connector.

[nwguy]

This will not work.

12 volts goes to the solenoid.
12 volts also goes to the dashboard lamp then to the sensor. It will also measure 12 volts at the plug. If you are desperate, pull the bulb out of the dashboard and get zero volts at the correct sensor plug.

Look on the wire 'accordion' cover. Far away from the plug will be red paint or no red paint. If the sensor has the red paint on the cable cover, then match it to the red pain one in the harness. If the sensor does NOT have red paint, match it to the plug with no paint.

Hmmmm, I'll ponder this. How hard is it to pull a bulb out of the dashboard? On my ride home after buying this bike the only dash light that seemed to work was the neutral light. I did just replace all the relays though.

[kingoffleece]

You'll get that all done in time.  Meanwhile, I don't trust my light on the Jackal.  It works-but I use the ODO.  At 176 miles I'm pushing it.