Norge LCD Replacement

[blackcat]

I removed the board from the white plastic mount and I'd guess that this board is toast. Plus I broke the metal bar that locks into the LCD which might be replaceable but given how burned up the board is at the capacitor?, I'm going to pass on trying to find someone to fix this part.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Does the one I sent you work?

[DoubleGuzzi]

.. given how burned up the board is at the capacitor..

Does look kinda nasty.  [Could be like me and looks worse than it is (allegedly).]

[moto]

I agree the board on this side looks hopeless. Though there may be some brave technician with a bottle of solvent who could clean it up to look more carefully, I would give up on it.

Condensation may have caused a short circuit across two of the closely spaced conductor tracks, as I described in a decade-old post.

A conformal coating would be the way to go for your next board. I have wondered whether a conformal coding was added to later iterations of the board, since failures seem to have decreased over time. If you have a UV flashlight you could shine it on any new board to look for fluorescence of the coating. If you see it by all means report it.

If my lawn chairs are any guide, the upper surfaces of objects collect more droplets of condensation. The surface you are now revealing is the upper surface when mounted. If you have learned tricks by disassembling your old gauge that would be sufficient to make you confident in working on a new one, I would go for it and do the coating as needed.

Excellent work. Good luck and keep us posted.

Moto

[blackcat]

"Does the one I sent you work?"

Charlie, yes it works perfectly fine but I purchased the conformal coating as suggested by Moto and that is why I thought it would be best to see how difficult it would be to remove the board from the white plastic surround. And it would be pretty risky to remove it without breaking the bar which connects to the LCD. There must be some trick, like spraying that area with DeOxit?, but at this point I may just coat the easy side, shine the UV light on the flip side and hope for the best or see if I can coat that area with a thin long handled paint brush.
 
"I have wondered whether a conformal coding was added to later iterations of the board..."

John, I don't think this is a later board so I may go down this road again or just bite the bullet and keep my eye on a later new board though time is not on my side with that plan.

[moto]

There are spray cans of conformal coating available. MG Chemicals (no connection) offers several kinds and has a guide to them on their Amazon product pages.

I believe that the upper surface of the PCB doesn't have any exposed contacts (or air pressure sensors!) so you might spray some coating on that side through the gap that you are able to look through. You could also recheck the upper surface of your old board to make sure that everything looks OK for coating. I would still go with the paint-on type on the other side.

[blackcat]

There are spray cans of conformal coating available. MG Chemicals (no connection) offers several kinds and has a guide to them on their Amazon product pages.

I believe that the upper surface of the PCB doesn't have any exposed contacts (or air pressure sensors!) so you might spray some coating on that side through the gap that you are able to look through. You could also recheck the upper surface of your old board to make sure that everything looks OK for coating. I would still go with the paint-on type on the other side.

The spray would definitely work through the opening so I'll order a can. Thanks again.

[Bulldog9]

If I'm going to spend $400 bucks plus shipping there and back, it will be over $500 and at that price I'll just buy a new one for $700 bucks delivered. But I did send Carmo the photo's so will see what they say.

This is what did when I wanted the correct dash in my 1200 Sport. The PO had a Norge unit in that the basic functions worked, but a few of the pinouts were off.  I waited and looked for a sale, got a NOS for a good price from a reputable and esteemed vendor when they were clearing parts out.

For me it all depends on how long you plan to keep a bike, and what you want out of its functions. For me, little things like that drive me bonkers. It was pricey IIRC, but worth it.  I still have the original, and plan one day to try to sort it out when I have the time. It's getting it apart that looks like the hardest part, at least for me.

[Bulldog9]

I removed the board from the white plastic mount and I'd guess that this board is toast. Plus I broke the metal bar that locks into the LCD which might be replaceable but given how burned up the board is at the capacitor?, I'm going to pass on trying to find someone to fix this part.

I hate it when capacitors fail, and leak. 2 years ago, I inherited a 944 from a family friend. It had sat for 10+ years in his garage. The moment I put a new battery in and turned on the key to close the windows, it sent the Climate Control computer up in smoke..... It's not just the failed and burnt capacitor, it creates problems all up and down the line. I found a place that could refurbish it, but a new NOS from Porsche was only $200 more, so I went for it.

Some things aren't worth chasing down and repairing. I'm all about fixing stuff, resoldering connections (have had to do this on several ECU units in older FI cars, but when new is reasonably in reach and you want to keep the vehicle in top shape, its the only way to go.

[blackcat]

"Some things aren't worth chasing down and repairing. I'm all about fixing stuff, resoldering connections (have had to do this on several ECU units in older FI cars, but when new is reasonably in reach and you want to keep the vehicle in top shape, its the only way to go."

I agree and if it wasn't for Charlie, I'd probably take that route and be done with it.