Author Topic: LM2 ignition switch repair.  (Read 1048 times)

Offline Stevex

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LM2 ignition switch repair.
« on: May 29, 2025, 11:59:11 AM »
My lights/charging light fault has been traced to the ignition switch.
A Zadi replacement has spade connectors instead of the oem bullets and would mean I'd need 2 keys and loose the oem round plastic key cap for the ignition.
I'd like to avoid this.
I've had the switch apart previously and noticed the 2 copper saddles have worn dimples; has anyone effected a decent repair on these?
alternatively I'd love to hear from someone with an oem NOS switch they're willing to part with.  :wink:

Offline blackcat

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Re: LM2 ignition switch repair.
« Reply #1 on: May 29, 2025, 01:49:14 PM »
I never got around to it when I changed the switch on my CX but I wonder if you took the Zadi switch key and the gas cap lock to a locksmith and see if they can modify the tank lock to match the new key?  Then you just have to cut the Zadi key, drill a hole in the key to the same size as the original key pin and install the new key in the button. 

That was my plan, but in the end I just bolted the two keys together and called it a day.
1968 Norton Fastback
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Offline guzzisteve

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Re: LM2 ignition switch repair.
« Reply #2 on: May 29, 2025, 02:34:04 PM »
Very good to hear, I had a thought about that but then no. You would have other issues.          Good to hear!!!
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Online cliffrod

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Re: LM2 ignition switch repair.
« Reply #3 on: May 29, 2025, 03:48:14 PM »
I never got around to it when I changed the switch on my CX but I wonder if you took the Zadi switch key and the gas cap lock to a locksmith and see if they can modify the tank lock to match the new key?  Then you just have to cut the Zadi key, drill a hole in the key to the same size as the original key pin and install the new key in the button. 

That was my plan, but in the end I just bolted the two keys together and called it a day.

I have had similar thoughts about my CX switch, in case it ever has problems.   

The original rebound key & switch assembly on my V7 Sport needed help for a long time and original replacement parts were insanely expensive if you could find them.  Keeping that iconic switch was important to me so I just dealt with it.  I finally got lucky with parts from another damaged original switch assembly
1973 V7 Sport  "Now THAT'S a motorcycle!"-  Master Sculptor Giuliano Cecchinelli
1967 V700 Corsa Record
1981 Lemans CX100
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Offline Stevex

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Re: LM2 ignition switch repair.
« Reply #4 on: June 03, 2025, 11:36:34 AM »
I removed the ignition switch and opened it up.
On a previous check a while back, after opening it up and finding some wear on the saddle dimples, I decided to turn the saddles round, as one dimple on each saddle had more wear than the other.
This appears to have been a mistake which lead to the fault of loosing the headlight and battery charging.
When I opened up the switch I could see the witness marks in the dielectric grease on the contact base plate that had been left by the dimples, and this showed there was minimal contact with one dimple.
When I removed the saddles and looked carefully at them, they were not symmetrical, as they first appeared to be; one end was slightly longer and the dimple further out from centre. This was enough to cause the fault, although it took a while to materialize.
I refitted the saddles correctly, put the switch back together and refitted it.
A run of 90 miles later and no faults seems to have proved a success.

Offline Kiwi_Roy

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Re: LM2 ignition switch repair.
« Reply #5 on: June 03, 2025, 03:00:19 PM »
Another option assuming at least one contact is making partial contact would be replace the main switch contact with a relay, use the existing switch to operate the coil.
I'm guessing the contact Red to White wire is still ok having less load.
Use 1 0r 2 relays rated 60 Amp Normally Open contacts, see link below.

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1978_LeMans_II.gif

https://wiringproducts.com/products/40-60-amp-automotive-relay-with-mounting-tab
This relay has a changeover contact, the normally open is rated 60 Amps, you should be able to pick one up at any Auto Electrical shop.

The relay coil will only draw about 100 milliamps, the switch contact will be happy with that.  :grin:

The relay contact would switch between Red & Brown, a second relay between Red & White wires or maybe just attach both white and Brown together.
Install the relay,s adjacent to the fuse block.
While you are there you could add an in line fuse holder into the white wire feeding the coils to protect the previously unfused circuit (an upgrade)

You might even be able to mount a low current micro-switch or Reed switch for the key to operate if there's not a decent contact available.

Roy
« Last Edit: June 05, 2025, 01:10:40 AM by Kiwi_Roy »
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