New Moto Guzzi Door Mats Available Now
First off - what Guzzi?
This one?https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/valeo-solenoid.htmhttps://www.euromotoelectrics.com/Starter-Solenoid-BMW-Airhead-BO157-SOL1-p/bo157-sol1.htmhttps://www.euromotoelectrics.com/Starter-Solenoid-BMW-R-Airhead-MG-BO157-SOL2-p/bo157-sol2.htm
How do you know it is bad? They have a REALLY low resistance that is almost impossible to measure with a normal meter. Could be startus interuptus? That looks like a bad/stuck solenoid.
If you want to replace the whole starter, the Valeo copies are very inexpensive and work well. https://www.ebay.com/itm/296937369596
Thanks for the info - Would be nice if it were true but your ebay web jump info shows (12V High Torque Starter for Moto Guzzi 1969 1970 1971 1972) will not work for 2007 Norge *but looks just like the one I took off? Are you stating you know that it does? That would be great.. They can't be that different can they after all...
Need replacement Solenoid for 2007 Norge 1200 - where to find or where did you buy your CARC Bosch replacement starter? Yes I took apart both solenoid and starter and the solenoid is bad. Bosch starter cleaned up looks as new inside. Original Bosch made in Hungary 2006.Anyone replaced theirs - where did you get it from or even Amazon?
How do you know the solenoid is bad, is the winding fried?Or is it just not pulling in because the wiring is too weak (Startus Interuptus)
I using one on the 2007 Norge powered Ambassador I'm building for a customer.
Thank you! The second one is pretty close and my shorted out solenoid body is black so a call to to company to confirm.
Using an Ohmeter it probably seems like it's shorted but in reality it's about 0.25 Ohms 12 Volt / 0.25 Ohms = 48 Amps, that's about right. for a Guzzi.Take a hot wire nd flash it from battery positive, it will crank, trust me!
Yes you are correct but I have the yellow wire SI fix done years ago. Thanks.
That's only half the job, the wire Guzzi provide from relay to starter solenoid is way too small as well cut it adjacent to the relay and crimp on a 16 AWG or equivalent with a new crimp link at the solenoid end.Roy
Sorry, is your temporary button rated at 50 Amps?Better to just touch the wire on battery.
SO you are saying to add another wire from the yellow relay connection to solenoid spade REPLACING the factory one connected to the solenoid, spade if I understand correctly? AND - Roy, thanks for the insight but "No click" nothing but the fuse frying? Why is the fuse blowing as soon as I press the handlebar start button if the solenoid was not shorted out?Thanks, SV
Sounds like it likely is a bad unit. Probably time for a replacement.Does the solenoid move? When the solenoid pulls in the contacts bypass (turn off) one of the coils. If that 'boost' coil stays engaged, it keeps pulling WAY too much current for the fuse. It is OK for 1/2 second, then pop. So a bad contact can do it, or anything interfering with it.
When the system is working at optimum the solenoid should engage in 10 milliseconds at least thats what I found on my Griso after doing the SI fix and upgrading the wire from relay to solenoid.I forget what I calculated the resistance to be on the Griso but it will be 0.25 Ohms or lessSee my post called "Drop Test" (how to calculate the value of a low resistance)Of course it is possible the coil is shorted out but I haven't seen one short out yet.
:gotpics:Please, sounds like a nice mix of old and new.