Tune up sequence

[nwguy]

I've been restoring my 99 Bassa with 66k miles since I got it in April. It's back on the road now, running fairly well, but I can tell the engine/fueling has a ways to go. Head bolts have been retorqued and valves adjusted, so now it's time for the rest of the full tune up. I've ordered a new tachometer (old one doesn't work), throttle position sensor and Morgan Carbtune 2. Also have downloaded the Beetle map and installed GuzziDiag and the reader/writer software on my laptop. After reading different tune up guides, I'm unsure of the sequence in which I should do things since I'll have the new TPS and a new map. Several steps specify what RPMs different settings or readings should be, thus my buying a new tach. I figured I would install the new tach first, then the Beetle map after backing up the old one, then install the new TPS, then do the throttle body balancing. Does that sound right? I'm pondering the saying "Do what you can when you can with what you've got".

[n3303j]

Expect that the head gasket will shrink for the first 1,000 miles (assuming new gaskets) . Torque at 50, 150, 500, 1000 miles and your gaskets will probably be stable. Fun procedure as you get tons of practice removing and reinstalling the rocker arms, springs, washers and pins. To re-torque unwind the fastener 1/8 turn then smoothly run back to correct torque (one at a time). I like to put a reference mark on the socket to see how much further it rotated on the re-torque. Of course rocker clearance has to be reset after the re-torque.

[guzzisteve]

New World motor came out in 93, no need to retorque heads since then. Only after then if motor has been apart. There was a service bulletin on it then. If you do it will be less than factory at 35ft lbs. AND it's not listed anywhere.

Why do you think it was called New World Motor. Many changes.

[nwguy]

New World motor came out in 93, no need to retorque heads since then. Only after then if motor has been apart. There was a service bulletin on it then. If you do it will be less than factory at 35ft lbs. AND it's not listed anywhere.

Why do you think it was called New World Motor. Many changes.

So now that I've done this, what retorquing should be done in the future if any?

[n3303j]

New World motor came out in 93, no need to retorque heads since then. Only after then if motor has been apart. There was a service bulletin on it then. If you do it will be less than factory at 35ft lbs. AND it's not listed anywhere.

Why do you think it was called New World Motor. Many changes.

My '98 V11EV with new gaskets required re-torque for the first 1K miles after new gaskets.

[Tom H]

When your ready for the TPS install. Follow this guide, it works:

https://archive.guzzitech.com/EVTuneup-Jeff_B.html

Tom

[nwguy]

When your ready for the TPS install. Follow this guide, it works:

https://archive.guzzitech.com/EVTuneup-Jeff_B.html

Tom

Yup, that's one I've been reading.

So if I have to do all the head bolt retorquing and then adjusting valves again, should I wait to do other tune up things until I've ridden 1k miles?

[Tom H]

If I was you...

I would torque, adjust valves and do the tune up procedure as described at the same time.

Then when you re-torque and adjust valves again, you will "likely" not need to do the tune procedure again.

Many tune procedures want the valves adjusted correctly so it's breathing correctly. Then you can tune the bike more reliably.

And since your changing the tps you also have to adjust the voltage of the TPS with the throttle stop backed out so the butterfly will fully close. Yes a screw you shouldn't mess with. Follow the guide, it works. .150V with the idle screw backed out to set the base for the TPS by rotating the TPS and .525V with the TPS side TB throttle stop screw turned in. Then follow the guide.

I prefer the guide I posted the link for, but here is another with pictures. I would just use this one for the pics:
http://www.bikeboy.org/tpssetting.html

Tom

[n3303j]

https://www.casperselectronics.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=853&search=109172

When you finally address the TPS this piece of wire makes reading voltages so much easier than an attempted back probe. I've done it both ways and the breakout harness gives me more confidence.

[Tom H]

^^^^ This, but it is another expense if you do not plan to do this regularly. FWIW, I have 2 of those, one at home and one at a friends to make it easier when I'm there.

Tom

[nwguy]

https://www.casperselectronics.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=853&search=109172

When you finally address the TPS this piece of wire makes reading voltages so much easier than an attempted back probe. I've done it both ways and the breakout harness gives me more confidence.

How is this used? In their installation instructions page, there's no listing for that part number.

[nwguy]

My '98 V11EV with new gaskets required re-torque for the first 1K miles after new gaskets.

So since I loosened all head bolts at the same time before re-torquing them, I really should re-torque them again at these intervals (50, 150, 500, 1000)? Not looking forward to that.

[n3303j]

One connector plugs into the TPS.
The other connector plugs into the harness connector removed from the TPS.
Two of the exposed wire ends are connected to your precision voltmeter.

Then follow instructions for setting voltage with throttle plate CLOSED.
Then follow instructions for setting voltage with throttle plate OPEN.

[n3303j]

So since I loosened all head bolts at the same time before re-torquing them, I really should re-torque them again at these intervals (50, 150, 500, 1000)? Not looking forward to that.

NEVER loosen all at once unless you plan on removing head!

Meanwhile recheck clearance at 100 miles. Then re-torque and recheck the clearance again. If clearance remains close to the same (< 0.001" change) probably all is stable and re-torque is finished.

[Tom H]

JMO: When installing the head (don't forget the O rings under the rocker carriers). Torque all the bolts per the sequence. Go grab a cold drink and smoke 'em if you got 'em. Then torque again. Repeat the cold drink and then torque again. Now the gaskets likely have crushed as far as they will with a cold never run engine.

Run engine for a few minutes to get it warmed up or better yet an easy ride around the neighborhood. Let cool overnight. Torque again.

Ride a few easy not racing days then cool overnight and torque again. Then I would ride it for a week, few hundred miles or so, and torque again, though not likely it will compress at that point. Your done. When you service the bike for it's oil change and valve adjust, pull the rockers, check torque and your done with torquing.

JMO,
Tom

[nwguy]

One connector plugs into the TPS.
The other connector plugs into the harness connector removed from the TPS.
Two of the exposed wire ends are connected to your precision voltmeter.

Then follow instructions for setting voltage with throttle plate CLOSED.
Then follow instructions for setting voltage with throttle plate OPEN.

Would this count as a precision voltmeter?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/126740001066?var=427799754119

I ordered one a few days ago.

[n3303j]

NO.

The readings you are setting are 3 decimal places after the dot. So they are in thousanths of a volt.

0.150

That meter only reads to tenths of a volt.

0.1??

"Real volt meters can be had for >$20 through the normal outlets.

https://www.amazon.com/Crenova-Auto-Ranging-Multimeter-Measuring-Backlight/dp/B00KXX2OYY/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?crid=3OQB2XIPXCUF6&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.0igT1Raq2QuSN2cSijNtPX2QCGCARbpLgYlND_Mg3DzVOOTNRe_7n7zyEFeiAaEkdpVeFDK14OH-e9symKExQyJHpCW4h7UBAv9pbeCYwIvUA63rqWypPRCPNtQj7P34ENBVzG0c8FXmIG2OoyOI4UoqLVCfWLtwMAr6O0bcrEr_WAW7myTqk45dnDkDXzyo7-eYkKoppB6em6aIJ5pmPQ.2GFDV01a4SL1jm0GON0B738AiXEaO-mxla0HY55pKp0&dib_tag=se&keywords=vom&qid=1751817232&sprefix=vom%2Caps%2C163&sr=8-9

[aklawok]

Just as an aside to the OP as no one has mentioned it: guzzidiag. Has a built in tach that shows on the screen, so you can do all your tuneup even without the new tach. And probably more accurate as well.
For doing the tune-up I have found that perfect accuracy rpm. Is not that necessary, +/-50 is usually as good as it gets. However TPS setting accuracy is. Thus why the breakout cable.
Klein tools make excellent reasonably priced meters, in fact I can recommend all their electrical tools.
Getting familiar with a multimeter will save you some headaches( and possible shop time$$) down the road for sure.

[nwguy]

I have 3, cheap, crappy multimeters and haven't bit the bullet yet on a good one (Klein, Fluke, etc.). I guess now's the time. So, which one? There are many. Manual or Auto ranging?

[n3303j]

I have 2 cheap crappy VOMs that spend their life on the road in the bikes. I also have a high quality Beckman.  All three of them read the same in the millivolt range. One of them was $1.27 from some Chinese direct mail order. If you have a reference standard then a test could show you if your meter is adequate.

But it is always nice to own quality tools.

Meanwhile, as previously mentioned, you could read these figures from Guzzi Diagnostics for the cost of a harness and an available PC. (Haven't done that yet)

[Tom H]

It has been mentioned in the past not to trust the Guzzidiag voltage for setting the TPS.

Even a cheap HF voltmeter will work unless you plan to become an electrician, then get the Klein or one of the top brands.

The voltage needs to be close to .150V (150millivolts) for the initial setting. You will find it rather hard to get an exact .150v, you'll likely be at .149 or .152 when you tighten up the screws with what the meter shows. Close enough, though I would consider erroring on the .150-.155v myself.

Don't overthink this, it's not that hard
Tom