Author Topic: Nevada 750 clutch job  (Read 484 times)

Offline WildGuzziNicholas

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Nevada 750 clutch job
« on: July 12, 2025, 11:10:05 AM »
Anyone done a clutch on a Nevada 750? My throw rod bearing is going out I think. Could be something else but from what I understand the throw rod bearing is the culprit. What else could it be? When I pull my clutch in it starts to squeal. Might as well do the whole clutch while I'm down there. Any way to get to it without taking the whole engine out?

Offline guzzisteve

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Re: Nevada 750 clutch job
« Reply #1 on: July 12, 2025, 02:37:55 PM »
Search "crabbing frame" Most likely only pull swingarm to get at rod & bearing but pull trans is split frame. They have a procedure in the shop manual, I would use it. Good luck
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Re: Nevada 750 clutch job
« Reply #2 on: July 13, 2025, 07:49:25 PM »
Don’t know if you’re aware, but Guzzi motors are like BMWs and automotive motors in that for a clutch job, you have to go in from the rear. For the small block, you can crab the frame (have one set of frame bolts on each side still connected to the lower frame rails and hinging the rear up, making sure you’ve disconnect all pertinent wires and engine bits). Or, disconnect the wires and engine bits, and then remove BOTH of the bolts for the lower frame rails on each side in the front, as well as the two engine-to-frame bolts. Then, you can remove the frame and forks from the engine and drive train., like this:



« Last Edit: July 13, 2025, 08:33:29 PM by Dirk_S »
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Online Tom H

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Re: Nevada 750 clutch job
« Reply #3 on: July 13, 2025, 09:02:12 PM »
As Steve said. You should only need to pull the swing arm, wheel, brake caliper (no need to undo the hose, just carefully hang out of the way) and any assorted bits to get to that bearing. NO NEED to pull the trans and/or engine for that bearing.

Tom
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Offline pehayes

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Re: Nevada 750 clutch job
« Reply #4 on: July 14, 2025, 03:07:45 PM »
Two massively different jobs.  The bearing is a fairly simple pull of the swingarm.  Not sure of your year model but there is a bit of trick language about a spacer washer when reinstalling the pivot pins.  Hopefully your bearing has not fully disassembled because if so, the whirling bits can quickly destroy the bore hole of the transmission rear cover.

If  you want the full clutch, you have to separate the transmission from the engine.  Stand back and look at the bike.  You will have to disconnect or dismantle almost everything which is NOT 'transmission'.

Keep us posted.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

Offline johnpaulcim

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Re: Nevada 750 clutch job
« Reply #5 on: July 14, 2025, 03:11:40 PM »
As Patrick Hayes said, doing a clutch job is much more involved than replacing the throw out bearing. If you decide to replace the clutch, there is a tutorial on This Old Tractor that walks through the process of getting to the clutch on a smallblock - the author was doing work on a 750 Breva's gearbox, but it is the same process to get to the Clutch. I found it an invaluable resource when working on the clutch on my 2013 V7. Don't know if this link will work, but here it is: https://www.google.com/url?client=internal-element-cse&cx=000333737378801057034:rqvmlkbisrg&q=https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzitech.dk/pdf/gearbox-repair-breva-750-nick-webb.pdf&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwj8jbSnkr2OAxW3EmIAHdo2BE4QFnoECAEQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2iazX8ACz7uUFrUMRx6jgs&fexp=72986053,72986052.


 


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