New Moto Guzzi Door Mats Available Now
You used to be able to buy a Dyna Jet kit & install and it just works. That was 40yrs ago though. I do know an expert though in Gainesville, GA
Not me for sure!I would suspect Billy at Gainesville Motor Sports might be the best bet here, but he was just born then; I'd guess he has the knowledge needed. I'll be up at TWO this am. If I see any of the guys with old bikes, I'll ask around. I know there is a group, I would guess on FB that keeps old Japanese bikes running, but I don't remember the name.
find or make a 4 into one manafold, but i wonder did it ever run well after being sodamized.
It's not that big of a deal to sync them yourself. You can make your own gauges cheap. It was covered here 3-6 years back. Try a search. Drop the float bowls first, pull the jets and blast out every hole you can find and check the float levels. Valve gap was mentioned. Have you checked them yourself?
How’s the battery? I’ve ran across more the one Honda that ran like crap without a healthy battery .
I will be removing the carbs from the bike for like the tenth time in a few weeks to double check the last mechanics work.
Bob, if you want to work out a way to get the carbs to me I’ll get my ole Honda mechanic to rebuild them with an OEM rebuild kit. You can PM me if interested and I’ll give you my ph number.
Okay I wanted to stay out of this but here goes since you mentioned you were pulling the carbs again. I have owned a half a dozen or so of these CB750 SOHC bikes. Ethanol fuel and the pot metal of these carbs don't work well if sitting for long periods, the carbs will corrode.First the number 1 carb always has issues if gas is left in the bowl. It is the left carb sitting on the bike. I would always run my carbs dry when I knew it was going to sit for any time.When pulling the carbs apart lay the parts out in order for each carb.Make sure you pull and clean the emulsion tubes. Welding tip cleaners work well but be careful as they are files and can remove matierial and make the holes larger.Make sure all main jets are the same size. This is something I have found is that sometime folks get things mixed up.If possible I would go back to standard OEM jetting, most likely 110 or 115. Also set the needles back to OEM original position. It is hard to chase a problem without a baseline.If doing parts replacement only use keihin carb parts. No aftermarket stuff.I know this is a custom bike but those types of air filters are known to be Performace inhibitors, the factory air box is best.If you set the needles back to OEM spec you will need to sync the carbs and will need a 4 gauge setup. In those carbs there is no baseline carb so syncing takes time. Set all air screws the same number of turns out to factory spec. and then adjust the slides first. It is a therapy session.And the comments about a single carb forget it. One would need a massive carb for the airflow requirements on that engine.That is my 2 cents. You may want to do a valve check, points and timing check. If a aftermarket points plate was used there Amy not be enough movement to rotate for proper timing. A static timing setup is fine to get running, once running use a timing light.Note: I was doing some digging and this was my carb setup for a CB750 with an 836cc big bore and a Web performance cam. (Set for 6500’ elevation 105 main jets, 38 slow jets andneedle valves set to second ring from top)Best of luck
I wouldn't even attempt to revive a CB750, I have enough trouble with simple Guzzis.