850 T front brakes and suspension

[BIF]

I am fairly new to Bikes but I just added my second 850 T for this year. I even managed to slide in a Ducati 907 in between them so I have issues.
The first 850 I got was fairly nice and runs well but not without issues and was presented as mostly stock with the exception of the upgraded jugs. The brakes are sub par and the front end bottoms. After getting the second bike and looking at the manuals I have determined that the front lower forks are wrong and the location of the caliper prevents decent bleeding.
Here are some pics of the 2 different front ends.




The blue bike is the first one I purchased and the silver one is the newest to thee stable.
Here is a shot of the new bike for those interested.


My questions are as follows
1) From what I can tell the forks on the blue bike are from either a T3 or 1000 SP. Is this considered an upgrade. SHould I keep them and change the caliper so it can be bled properly, or change the lower forks back to original.
2) the upper part is also different and I really like the headlight setup of the original, anyone have this part?
3) from what I understand the original shocks were not that good, what is the preferred replacement shock?
4) The silver bike has not run in years, and I plan to pull the cylinder heads to check for chrome flaking. If there is any kind of concern I will replace them but if they are still in good shape do I leave the chrome cylinders.
5) and this will show what an idiot I am. How do you pop the seat to get to the battery. My blue one is easy and probably not stock, but I don't want to break something opening the seat on the silver one, and I can't figure it out without forcing it, or taking apart more stuff than needed.

That is all for now but I am sure there will be more
Kevin

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

My questions are as follows
1) From what I can tell the forks on the blue bike are from either a T3 or 1000 SP. Is this considered an upgrade. SHould I keep them and change the caliper so it can be bled properly, or change the lower forks back to original.
2) the upper part is also different and I really like the headlight setup of the original, anyone have this part?
3) from what I understand the original shocks were not that good, what is the preferred replacement shock?
4) The silver bike has not run in years, and I plan to pull the cylinder heads to check for chrome flaking. If there is any kind of concern I will replace them but if they are still in good shape do I leave the chrome cylinders.
5) and this will show what an idiot I am. How do you pop the seat to get to the battery. My blue one is easy and probably not stock, but I don't want to break something opening the seat on the silver one, and I can't figure it out without forcing it, or taking apart more stuff than needed.

That is all for now but I am sure there will be more
Kevin

1) Likely 1000SP forks or just the lowers. Really no better or worse, same internals, SPs do have longer dampers and springs for more travel and ground clearance. You can move the calipers in front of the forks easily enough - just swap the forks (or just the lowers) left-to-right. They're on the wrong sides anyway, evidenced by the axle going in from the right side.
2) Stock fork "ears" aren't hard to find, I may have some, Mark @ Moto Guzzi Classics likely has a bunch.
3) Ikon or YSS would be my choice for rear shocks, others will have more suggestions. It largely depends on how much you want to spend.
4) If they are chrome, then I would recommend replacing them, no matter if they "look good" or not. It's not "if" they will flake, but "when".
5) There should be a release for the seat on the right side, above the upper rear corner of the toolbox. Push it forward.

 

[kballowe]

Lets move this thread to the General Discussion forum and see if it gets more attention.

[Turin]

My 850-T runs FAC dampers w/ Wirth springs up front, Ikon dial a ride shocks, and I double disked the front end with 4 piston calipers with the stock 15mm master cylinder. this master is the perfect size for 4piston calipers. My T is a happy canyon carver.
On a stock 850T front end you will have to raise the fork tubes through the triple clamps with the FAC dampers.

A lot of this stuff is in Guzziology and I recommend getting a copy.

[wirespokes]

The first series of bikes in the 70s with disc brakes had the calipers mounted in front of the sliders (the lower part of the forks). Then in about 1980 it was determined that calipers mounted behind the slider was better, so they turned the forks around. Exact same forks, just repositioned.

The silver bike has a stock front end, headlight mounts and all. Are you looking for a headlight mount like the blue bike or the silver?

If you want to save some money on shocks, look for some Konis (now Ikon) off an old airhead bmw. You may have to change the mounting eyes, but that's not difficult.

Source another disc and a left side caliper and brake line. That's the quickest way to better brakes. The original master works fine (actually, much better) with the extra caliper.

[GuzziNZ]

If you don't want the expense of a dual disk setup you could fit an after market 09 caliper and a new set of brake lines if they are getting old.
This made a big difference to my T along with getting a different material bonded to the rear shoes to depower them.
No more wooden front brakes and no more rear wheel lock up.

[BIF]

My 850-T runs FAC dampers w/ Wirth springs up front, Ikon dial a ride shocks, and I double disked the front end with 4 piston calipers with the stock 15mm master cylinder. this master is the perfect size for 4piston calipers. My T is a happy canyon carver.
On a stock 850T front end you will have to raise the fork tubes through the triple clamps with the FAC dampers.

A lot of this stuff is in Guzziology and I recommend getting a copy.

I have Guzziology so I guess that is a positive start, the only problem is that being new I am still learning the nomenclature and models.  The koni/ikon rear shocks is easy enough to do. I like your caliper and disc setup which brand or part type are these.
I am fairly certain that I am running 1000sp front forks as they are about 1 inch longer, and I will look at the FAC dampers and springs.
Thanks for your assistance.

[BIF]

The first series of bikes in the 70s with disc brakes had the calipers mounted in front of the sliders (the lower part of the forks). Then in about 1980 it was determined that calipers mounted behind the slider was better, so they turned the forks around. Exact same forks, just repositioned.

The silver bike has a stock front end, headlight mounts and all. Are you looking for a headlight mount like the blue bike or the silver?

If you want to save some money on shocks, look for some Konis (now Ikon) off an old airhead bmw. You may have to change the mounting eyes, but that's not difficult.

Source another disc and a left side caliper and brake line. That's the quickest way to better brakes. The original master works fine (actually, much better) with the extra caliper.

OK that makes sense on the calipers. The only issue is that the bleed nipples are not at the highest point and bleeding the brakes could be a pain. I think the also used a LS caliper from something like a T3, because when you move from front to back I think you have to switch left and right to make the caliper and rotor align.

For the headlight I actually like the look of the original silver bike, the blue bike is not bad I just like the original. I also figured out that handlebars have been changed to something that lowers them, but it doesn't have the internal wire loom like the original. I have a new wiring harness from Greg @ this old tractor with new switch gear and will address the handlebar and light when I install the harness.

Yes, I think I will add another caliper. I liked Turin's setup and will probably go this route,

Thanks for the info.

[Turin]

This is the recipe.

https://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_disc_brake_-_brembo_f08_to_4_piston_caliper_conversion_with_40_mount_spacing.html#google_vignette

https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2652

factory 15mm master cylinder, stainless brake line kit. 1 finger braking.