Neophyte V7 Mechanical Advice

[adventurelounger]

So I decided to tackle the valve adjustment on my 2016 V7II Stornello this weekend. And after watching several YouTube tutorials, got up the mustard to try it myself.

Got the valve cover off and the sparkplug out with relative ease. Now comes the fun part.

In order to find Top Dead Center (TDC), one YouTuber recommended removing the alternator cover, and using a socket wrench to turn the engine in a clockwise direction until your TDC plastic straw is at its apogee, in which case you’ve achieved TDC.

My question comes from the step before that. I’ve started removing the bolts for the alternator cover, and…there’s a lot of them. Of non-uniform length. I think there’s one or two near the horn/top of alternator cover remaining.

In the YouTube video I watched, it must have been a V7I or V7III, because the alternator cover came off much more quickly and easily.

So my question is this: stop now, replace the alternator cover bolts, and use the “bike in high gear, turn the rear wheel” method to find TDC?

Or proceed and commit to getting the alternator cover off? Thanks in advance for any Sunday morning mechanical wisdom.

[kingoffleece]

wheel

[adventurelounger]

And couple other things:

1) when replacing the valve cover bolts, use “anti-seize”? Or use Locktite?

2) torque values for valve cover bolts? For alternator cover bolts?

Many thanks in advance!

[Vagrant]

Get the rear wheel off the ground and use the 5 or 6th gear. Use a big straw to find TDC.
Use your thumb and two fingers on a ratchet to snug bolts. Just put them back in as is.

[guzzisteve]

Make sure you don't have oil inside front cover, some V7 models do.  Use back wheel to turn.

[Kev m]

If you haven't already STOP... Ever since the last year of the MkI the alternator cover is sealed and contains engine oil.

You Boober sucks because he didn't reference that and that was about a decade ago.

[Kev m]

Dog only know how old of a YT video the OP was watching. Quite possible it predates his model.

Point remains the same. It's up to the Boober to make sure his/her content is clear with applicability. Give years and models, come back and update list periodically.

Granted it's also on the consumer to keep their eyes open but I put the majority of the children on the supplier of the tech info.

[Kiwi_Roy]

There are two Top Dead Centres one on the exhaust stroke on on compression, its the later you want.
As others have said the later V7s have an oil cooled alternator, don't take the cover off unless you have replacement oil on hand.

[Huzo]

There are some nuisances

Nuances…

[dguzzi]

   I thought boobers was a good thing?
  Really you should be able to see when a valve stops closing and has maximum clearance, that's when to check it.

[Huzo]

Huh, wonder how many YTubers are in violation of your policy. I'm guessing somewhere around 99.9999999999999999 9999999999999999999 9999999999999999999 99999%

Personally I think its up to the user to determine if the content is clear with applicability and relates to what they are working on. I mean lets just look at your small block content do you go back and review all your posts to make sure all your content is clear with applicability. Give years and models, come back and update list periodically?

I guess there are a couple of schools of thought there.
#1
A large portion of the total number of reasons that our society is going down the toilet, is that people have developed a a sense of lack of accountability for their actions  and words. One would hope that the reason someone posts information, is to provide guidance to another who is lost, a lot of what I see on these You Tube presentations, is a display by someone who found something out yesterday and wants to tell the rest of the world about it today…
#2
If I was so clueless as to need guidance from a You Tuber, how would I possess the accumen to know if the information was on point or otherwise ?

The great man Albert Einstein was quoted as having said…
“If you cannot explain something clearly and succinctly
You probably don’t understand it yourself…”

[Kev m]

Huh, wonder how many YTubers are in violation of your policy. I'm guessing somewhere around 99.9999999999999999 9999999999999999999 9999999999999999999 99999%

Personally I think its up to the user to determine if the content is clear with applicability and relates to what they are working on. I mean lets just look at your small block content do you go back and review all your posts to make sure all your content is clear with applicability. Give years and models, come back and update list periodically?

You're simply defining why I hate YouBoob.

I'm not monetizing my smallblock content. If I did I would feel an obligation to update and clarify.

But I spent more than three decades producing monetized service and repair instructions and always, ALWAYS gave applicability (years and models) so there's that.

[Kev m]

Who said the YTuber was making money.

< Snip >

Doing one's job and posting content on social media are not one in the same.
 

You tube is NOT social media, it's monetized media.

They paid contributors $32B in 2024 alone.

https://www.linkedin.com/posts/youtube_a-new-report-from-kpmg-analyzing-global-content-activity-7376653777946288128-8geY?utm_source=share&utm_medium=member_android&rcm=ACoAAFc4I2wBjUYamJindJ34vgIASbKB7YRWikM

YouBoobers can make anywhere from $0.50-7/1000 views, but it adds up.

And the model has little accountability though that's a whole other discussion other than the simple fact that if I do something to help others I prefer to have some basic standards, like making it clear to what it applies, especially for the novices.

YMMV

[Error]

Some of these responses are just kinda…..wow.

OP:

I have a V7ii as well.

1) I use the wheel method. I have a straw that I marked with a line at TDC, I drop that in the cylinder when I know I’m close and line it up. Then adjust from there. Note that because of angle, there is a chance of mashing the straw between the piston and the head. Don’t use anything that would mark up the metal like a screw driver. Plastic or paper straw only.

2) Just as a side note, I’ve pulled the front cover off to replace the seal on my bike, wasn’t all that messy. Still wouldn’t recommend doing it that way.

[Dirk_S]

Yeah, that top Allen bolt for the alternator cover is a doozy. Drilling a small hole through the frame brace to get at that bolt head is something to consider if you’re just itching to rotate the engine that way [Credit to Kiwi Roy (Vagrant as well?) for that tip]. The alternator cover removal method is helpful for the day your stator sharts the bed.

[adventurelounger]

Some of these responses are just kinda…..wow.

I mean, sheesh! Didn’t mean to start a referendum on YouTubers!

FWIW, I find YouTube incredibly helpful for visualizing some of the steps in maintenance or repair for minor league (really, bush league) garage-noodlers like me. And I fully recognize that any and all YT guidance or advice has to be taken with a grain of salt, and with the understanding that what pertains to a particular model or year of bike (or car or vacuum cleaner, for that matter) might not apply to whatever you’re noodling with.

That said, having undertaken it (at least initiatlly), I do not think that a valve adjustment on a V7II is beyond the ken or ability of even an amateur like me, if I have the right tools (I do—even picked up a set of German metric feeler gauges) and seek the right counsel.

Had no problem up until the “finding TDC part.” But that was only because I don’t have a center-stand or bike jack, and a buddy wasn’t available to help at the moment, and my wife wasn’t too enthusiastic about helping.

So I decided to pause and reassemble everything until I can borrow a jack and have my friend help with rear wheel rotation.

Everyone has to start somewhere. There’s a first time for every repair. Thank you to the folks who’ve provided some constructive guidance. Going to finish the job this coming weekend, and will report back how it goes!

[Dirk_S]

…Had no problem up until the “finding TDC part.” But that was only because I don’t have a center-stand or bike jack, and a buddy wasn’t available to help at the moment, and my wife wasn’t too enthusiastic about helping.

So I decided to pause and reassemble everything until I can borrow a jack and have my friend help with rear wheel rotation…

I have this work stand from Stein-Dinse. MG Cycle sells them and recently told me they’ll have more coming in within a couple weeks (you’ll have to pay the tariff):





https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=4932

I’ve also used jack stands, propping one under the pillion peg and carefully leaning the bike side-to-side to get the other wheel jack under the other side. That’s easier to do on a bike with scrambler pipes like yours and mine.

…I’ve ALSO also used both a SnapJack and a homemade jack stand made out of an aluminum crutch separately, with a brick or thick piece of wood propping the kick stand higher for leverage.

[Kev m]

Or for $20-30 go to cycle gear or harbor freight and buy a wheel roller stand:

Motorcycle Wheel Cleaning Stand https://share.google/eqapSdD7Zt8JzARd4

We use one to clean and lube the chain on the Duc but it would work fine to rotate the wheel when locating TDC if we didn't also have center stands.

[Kev m]

The wheel chock and scissors jack combo while more costly is more versatile. With this combo since the chock accommodate tires up to 5 inches wide the OP can get either wheel off the ground buy simple turning the bike around. Having the ability to get the wheels off the ground unencumbered by stands open up opportunities to do many more things, like remove the wheels for tire changes or work on suspension or......

Even better if the OP wants to make the investment and has a place to put it, I'd encourage him to get a lift and make all maintenance task easier. The good thing is the HF lifts are like money in the bank. I had mine for 7 or 8 years and sold it within 30 minutes of listing it for $50 less than i paid.

I think you just supported the point I was going to make. Keep it simple.

Dude didn't know the difference between a wet and dry alternator (which is fine), but you're suggesting he gets a lift.

Baby steps.

I'm glad he's tackling valve adjustment but I'm not about to make assumptions about how much more he wants to or should service his bike.

So why not offer the cheapest and simplest solution first?

[Kev m]

If you are keeping it simple I'm not sure why you'd suggest a expensive $30 wheel roller thingy when the OP could find a stick in his backyard wad it up against the swingarm and make a trail jack?

 

[adventurelounger]

Thanks for all the input here. Mission accomplished. Here’s how it went.

I have a local gearhead friend with approximately 8 BMW airheads in his garage, in varying states of completeness. He knows the German variant of everything I was doing, so good to have an “advisor” first go around. He lent me a motorcycle scissors jack and a wheel chock, pretty much what @Perazzimx14 suggested from Harbor Freight (after having used them, I think I’m going to take the plunge on my own. They worked like a charm). Will also check out your wheel roller suggestion when I’m at HF, @Kev m

Used the plastic straw method and rear wheel in 5th to find TDC. Took a little trial and error, but my friend (who helped with wheel jogging) indicated that the valves would have a little “play” when we reached TDC, which they did.




Here’s the video (can’t figure out how to embed here): https://vimeo.com/1127649871?fl=tl&fe=ec
The feeler-gauge + lock nut + adjustment screw is a fun, finesse-y job. Took a little noodling but I got all four valves feeling “just right” and snugged up the lock nut while holding the screw steady. Also ordered a set of the OEM-identical spark plugs, and put them in to replace the old ones.

After buttoning everything, she fired right up, idling sweetly, and running beautifully. When for a ride, and very pleased with my work (and all the guidance here).





Video here: https://vimeo.com/1127651909?fl=tl&fe=ec
As an old friend of mine would say, “I managed to fail to suck!"

[Dirk_S]

The single greatest thing you could’ve done was get someone with experience to watch your first time doing valves. They’re machines with intricate parts and processes, and doing it right is key to saving $$$ in repairs.

High-five.

[mhershon]

Wouldn't hurt to have another set of valve cover gaskets on hand for the next adjustment. They seem like they'll last forever but they won't. Many of us V7 owners have replaced our spark plug caps with NCK ones. The ones Guzzi supplies can give problems and it's an easy replacement. You then have to use a different model of spark plug to suit the caps. Worth doing. Good for you for taking the time to get help and learning to do the valve adjustment the right way. Gave you a good feeling, I'll bet.

[adventurelounger]

A great feeling. And a high five back. Very stoked. Gasket looked pretty good, and OEM spark plugs have been trouble free, so stayed with them (just fresh ones) for now. I don’t know if it’s psychosomatic or not, but the Storny sounded and felt even peppier than usual after the tune up!

[MikeP996]

"You then have to use a different model of spark plug to suit the caps"

???    I'm not understanding why you would have to change the plugs.  Aren't the aftermarket caps a standard fit for spark plugs?

[mhershon]

The NGK caps fit over threaded posts at the tops of the plugs, not the brass tops that the original plugs have. It's harder to explain than it would be to look at photos in a parts book. You'd immediately see the difference. The plugs are the same - except at the very tops. The OE (original equipment) caps are not all that good. Better to change them when you can. I bought my bike from the previous owner you think you'll never meet. He had done all those "little things" so by the time I bought my V7 I could just ride it and not have to fuss.

[MikeP996]

"The NGK caps fit over threaded posts at the tops of the plugs, not the brass tops that the original plugs have."

Interesting.  On the plugs I am familiar with the terminal nuts on the plugs unscrew so that the plug could be connected to either type of cap.   I didn't realize there were plugs that weren't made that way - with the option of using the terminal nut or leaving it off.

[SIR REAL ED]

Nuances…

One man's nuance is another man's nuisance.....

[SIR REAL ED]

You Boober sucks because he didn't reference that and that was about a decade ago.

IIRC, the You Boober channels are owned by Playboy magazine.....

No wonder the information is out of date.....

[SIR REAL ED]

I guess there are a couple of schools of thought there.
#1
A large portion of the total number of reasons that our society is going down the toilet, is that people have developed a a sense of lack of accountability for their actions  and words. One would hope that the reason someone posts information, is to provide guidance to another who is lost, a lot of what I see on these You Tube presentations, is a display by someone who found something out yesterday and wants to tell the rest of the world about it today…
#2
If I was so clueless as to need guidance from a You Tuber, how would I possess the accumen to know if the information was on point or otherwise ?

The great man Albert Einstein was quoted as having said…
“If you cannot explain something clearly and succinctly
You probably don’t understand it yourself…”

Amen.

"If you can tell good advice from bad advice, then you don't need advice."