Winter project V7ii “CRABBIN”

[Vagrant]

The real question is who needs it. Ever see a car with one?

[DoubleGuzzi]

The real question is who needs it. Ever see a car with one?

Last time I saw a non-automatic car with a sequential shift was about 50 years ago! Even then, the Zephyr IIRC, may not have been sequential with its steering wheel mounted stick shift.

[malik]

The neutral sensor on both my V7's (& the 750 Breva & Nevadas) is on the top of the rear of the gearbox on the RHS, just forward of the boot over the uni joint. It's accessible, if barely, and you can get get your hands in there, the main problem is looking at it at the same time. If it gets too frustrating, you might be best removing the rear end again, along with the swingarm. Plenty of access then. Often the connection is a blade, but some have a button on the top, with a connector that slides horizontally, front to rear, both have a boot over the connector.
If there's not enough wire out the back to move it around, you may have to loosen off the screws holding the airbox again and lever the airbox up to create clearance for the wire threaded through under there.
Soldier on,

[Dirk_S]

The neutral sensor on both my V7's (& the 750 Breva & Nevadas) is on the top of the rear of the gearbox on the RHS, just forward of the boot over the uni joint. It's accessible, if barely, and you can get get your hands in there, the main problem is looking at it at the same time. If it gets too frustrating, you might be best removing the rear end again, along with the swingarm. Plenty of access then. Often the connection is a blade, but some have a button on the top, with a connector that slides horizontally, front to rear, both have a boot over the connector.
If there's not enough wire out the back to move it around, you may have to loosen off the screws holding the airbox again and lever the airbox up to create clearance for the wire threaded through under there.
Soldier on,

Keep in mind the V7 II has a different transmission case due to the added 6th gear. Accessing the neutral switch might not be quite as easy, but I hope I’m proven wrong for posterity.

[Error]

Keep in mind the V7 II has a different transmission case due to the added 6th gear. Accessing the neutral switch might not be quite as easy, but I hope I’m proven wrong for posterity.

I managed to get it out.

Unbolt the rear splash guard, leave the bike on the center stand, jam your hand in the space, swear a bunch, and its out. Not nearly as bas as I was expecting.

Its just a "Button" type, gear position presses in the button and light comes on (or maybe reversed, not sure). But I pulled it out and tried pressing it, moving the wire to see if I could get the light to come on, and got nothing.

Currently I have one on order from AF1 rather than fuss with this one.

The real question is who needs it. Ever see a car with one?

Kind of of apples to oranges in my mind. Gear position can be felt and visually seen, even tested by moving the shifter left to right while in neutral in a car. On the bike, not so much. Most street bikes have had natural lights since the 60s or 70s.  I expect if you ride outside of a city with no traffic lights most often, its not a big deal. But being able to get the visual "yes" so I can get off the clutch without having to do the up down foot hunt at a light is nice . Besides, why wouldn't you fix something that doesn't work?

[malik]

There is, from memory, in the Workshop Manual, Electrics section, the testing parameters for the Neutral Sensor. A bit technical. Had a thought - I think there is the connector at the front end under the seat, (?) do ensure that the connector is clean & plugged in. Just saying, just in case,
Occasionally the sensors are available from the wreckers, a small item not always listed in their parts list, worth double checking.

[Error]

There is, from memory, in the Workshop Manual, Electrics section, the testing parameters for the Neutral Sensor. A bit technical. Had a thought - I think there is the connector at the front end under the seat, (?) do ensure that the connector is clean & plugged in. Just saying, just in case,
Occasionally the sensors are available from the wreckers, a small item not always listed in their parts list, worth double checking.

I actually pulled the switch free, then cleaned and replugged it in hanging off the side of the bike, turned on the bike tried to get the light to come on. No dice.

Even after the warning from Dirk, I still managed to yank on it pretty hard several times when taking the bike apart, my guess is I’ve broken the wire internally. It would have been smart to check continuity before I ordered a new one, but AF1 had a short I wanted too so, you know…..

[guzzisteve]

Did you try moving trans w/back wheel? Just an idea. Maybe not in a good spot.

[Error]

Did you try moving trans w/back wheel? Just an idea. Maybe not in a good spot.

I’m not sure what you mean?

I’ve actually started the bike and ran through 1-3 on the center stand letting the wheel run freely. Seems to shift well, no issue. But no luck on the neutral light. It comes on when the bike fires up, so I know it’s not just the bulb.

Is that what you meant?

[Dirk_S]

It’s been almost 2 full pages, and I’m still waiting for the crabs to arrive. I was promised crabs.