Foolish idea?

[nwguy]

The absolute bottom you should see upon start up is 10v.  At speed (above 3K) you should see 13.8 to 14.1 or VERY close to it. 

When I got my 2001 it was 15.2v at speed.  Too much, much too much.  Rather that just getting part of the system replaced I went ahead and renewed every part.
Pay one time, work one time, be happy a long time.

I tested today and it was 12.7 v before starting. Then went down to 10.2 briefly when starting. At 3k it was 14.

[n3303j]

Sounds like good numbers.
Be sure your voltage regulator has a very good ground!
That regulator gets rid of extra current by shorting it to frame ground and turning it into heat. A bad ground will make it work improperly. The V11EV came with a separate ground wire that connects to the VR case and to frame ground. Both wire contact points should be corrosion free and have a bit of grease to prevent easy water intrusion and slow corrosion.

[Vagrant]

Item 16 on what page?

"Bikes can sense fear". I like that.

page 66 both are the same part #

[nwguy]

page 66 both are the same part #

I don't see any item #16 on page 66.

[antmanbee]

The Bassa does not have a sensor on the flywheel. It only has the one in the front for the cam sensor.

[nwguy]

The Bassa does not have a sensor on the flywheel. It only has the one in the front for the cam sensor.

Thank you.

[nwguy]

I bought the voltage regulator that Ron recommended:
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl450-voltrect.htm





Here is its wiring diagram:
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/edl450-voltrect%20diagram.pdf

My old regulator plugs and wires:




has these wires from left to right
2 yellows to alternator
2 reds, can't see where they go
1 brown, grounded to engine casing
Also ring connector with wire under right side mounting bolt on outside of rectifier. Presumably it's a ground. Can't see where the wire goes.

This 2000 Jackal wiring diagram that I've been using:
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/pdfs/2000_Jackal.pdf

shows a light blue wire coming from the regulator to the dash generator light, and a red/black wire leading to the lights relay, the ignition switch and the low fuel light.

Questions:
Connect new yellow wires to old?  Does it matter which yellow wire goes to which alternator terminal?

Connect new red wire to old red wires? Run new wires for red black and white wires on the new regulator per its wiring diagram?  I'm pretty hazy on those in the diagram.

Would you use plug ends with the wires so they can be unplugged, or just solder with heat shrink? If plugs, what's that connector type called on the new regulator wire ends?

[antmanbee]

Why are you getting a new regulator? It looks like it was replaced before. The one in the picture looks to be a Shindengen FH020AA regulator which is probably the best you can buy. If it is bad it would be easier to replace with the same kind which is still available. Someone already put on the proper connectors for that regulator.

[nwguy]

Why are you getting a new regulator? It looks like it was replaced before. The one in the picture looks to be a Shindengen FH020AA regulator which is probably the best you can buy. If it is bad it would be easier to replace with the same kind which is still available. Someone already put on the proper connectors for that regulator.

I thought it might be the original and would be good to replace before going on my long trip for the sake of reliability. Thank you for identifying this one. How long might my voltage regulator last?

[n3303j]

I thought it might be the original and would be good to replace before going on my long trip for the sake of reliability. Thank you for identifying this one. How long might my voltage regulator last?

Voltage regulators last forever or they don't. That device is solid state with no moving parts or contacts to fail. In a perfect world there is nothing to wear out.
Mine failed at 90K miles. Could have been an insufficient ground took it out. Could have been previous owner put a decorative cover over it that limited cooling air and weakened the component parts?

[TN Mark]

Very often, voltage regulators last the life of the bike itself.
They’re not known to fail prematurely or to need a replacement schedule.

[Stretch]

I've had voltage regulators die after having a battery go bad.

Coincidence? Maybe not.

As others have said, they frequently last the life of the vehicle.

If it still works fine, you might leave it alone and pack a spare if you're
worried.

How hard is it to get to on the road? Some are wicked easy to replace,
others require disassembly of the bike.

                                                                       -Stretch

[nwguy]

I just watched this video on how to tell a fake FH020AA from a real one:

https://youtu.be/TYxtCC330Xg

I have a fake. No stainless steel on the back. No printing on the top showing the model number. I think I'm going to buy a genuine one, install it, and bring the fake as a spare.

Pretty easy to replace it, could be done on the side of the road.

[n3303j]

If you are going to swap out regulators I'd install the EME unit and keep the $100 in my pocket for the trip. Just match up the wire colors.

I'd also install a voltmeter on the circuit to let you know if there was an issue. When my regulator quit in the V11EV it started delivering 16 VDC to the battery. Idiot light still worked (some) but battery boiled a bit. Voltmeter would have been a more courteous failure warning than the acid burn on my rear fender.

As far as roadside repairs go, it's all easy until it's a road without a shoulder on a dark and rainy night. That's why I try to make camp before dark.

Your trip will be an adventure filled with many excellent memories. Go for it and be prepared, but don't worry. Just enjoy.

[Stretch]

Your trip will be an adventure filled with many excellent memories. Go for it and be prepared, but don't worry. Just enjoy.

^^THIS!!! 

Pretty good approach to life as well.......

                                              -Stretch

[nwguy]

Anyone ever install one of these regulator kits from Roadster Cycle? Thoughts?

https://roadstercycle.com/

The regulator itself goes for $121, so it's about $25 extra for the parts and wire in the kit. I like the simplicity of their suggested wiring:

https://roadstercycle.com/Easy%20Mosfet%20Install.htm

[antmanbee]

If the regulator is working fine now I wouldn't do anything. It will most likely continue to work. In the unlikely event it did fail you can order a new Shindengen or even a clone for that matter and replace it without having to do any rewiring. Save your money and don't carry a lot of extra stuff you wont use.