Well I think I finally found a suitable project a 78 t3

[benebob]

After recovering a few years from the bad taste my 16 v7 left in my mouth and a far too ambitions first guzzi rebuild to start with in a v700 I drug this old gal home (a 78 t3) this past week.  Judging by the tires I doubt it has done much road duty for 25 years or so but it she does run, go and stop (though I wanna at least check the barrels before doing any of that stuff and do plan on replacing 'em as soon as I get everything else up to snuff. 

I know I will be in the market for at least the following parts wise.  The front turn signals and bracket as apparently they don't mount to the ears.  Headlight bucket, taillight and turns and maybe some more correct silencers. 

In the meantime I got tires on order, and will order all the bits to do a full fluid change this week.  Plenty to of things to do while I wait for parts on the other project that appeared in the trailer this month a 48 Norton es2.

I do have one question to start with.  The switch gear is pretty bastardized.  The left switch has wires soldered to the switch, the right is non existent, no keyed ignition and a push button for the starter.  I would like to go with a japanese or maybe a modern triumph switch set up.  Are there any that are more suited to an 850i then others?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Your front forks (at least the sliders) are later, probably from an SP. The front fender would have been a stainless one with braces mounting it to the fork.

The signals did mount to the headlight/ears originally. What's wrong with your headlight bucket? Perhaps it's just missing the thick rubber seal between the rim and bucket?

I have a pair of nice original mufflers (and header pipes as well).

Greg Bender sells a few different switches - vintage Yamaha style and modern Domino. I've been using K&S switches on my Convert and have a few spares of those.
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/for_sale_wiring_harness_tonti_850_t3.html
K&S switches:
https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_140&products_id=183
https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_140&products_id=2592

I'll be parting out a '76 850-T3 if there's anything else you need.

[benebob]

Good catch eagle eye Charlie on the forks and fender which is plastic.  I suspect the ears may be of an sp as well as no holes.

Headlight doesn't fit well and is slightly bent.  Haven't pulled it to look yet plus the bucket has some poor repairs. 

Yeah that complete exhaust may be up my alley.  Will need rear pegs as well at the very least so far.

Would love to find a period correct switch set that lets me turn the lights off  if I can.   

Got the bits on the way to do a full fluid change probably first since Ollie was selling guns to Iran.  she does run rather well though all things considering. 

Your front forks (at least the sliders) are later, probably from an SP. The front fender would have been a stainless one with braces mounting it to the fork.

The signals did mount to the headlight/ears originally. What's wrong with your headlight bucket? Perhaps it's just missing the thick rubber seal between the rim and bucket?

I have a pair of nice original mufflers (and header pipes as well).

Greg Bender sells a few different switches - vintage Yamaha style and modern Domino. I've been using K&S switches on my Convert and have a few spares of those.
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/for_sale_wiring_harness_tonti_850_t3.html
K&S switches:
https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_140&products_id=183
https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_140&products_id=2592

I'll be parting out a '76 850-T3 if there's anything else you need.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Good catch eagle eye Charlie on the forks and fender which is plastic.  I suspect the ears may be of an sp as well as no holes.

Headlight doesn't fit well and is slightly bent.  Haven't pulled it to look yet plus the bucket has some poor repairs. 

Yeah that complete exhaust may be up my alley.  Will need rear pegs as well at the very least so far.

Would love to find a period correct switch set that lets me turn the lights off  if I can.   

Got the bits on the way to do a full fluid change probably first since Ollie was selling guns to Iran.  she does run rather well though all things considering.

The signal stalks thread into the headlight shell at the mounting bolt holes.

I have a NOS headlight, but It's worth as much as some complete bikes.  Mark @ Moto Guzzi Classics might have a good bucket. I think I sold my last good one.

Greg Bender sells a replica of the '70s Yamaha switch, and there are repros for Kawasaki Z1s available as well. Not terribly difficult to wire in.

I don't have a crossover (already sold that) but do have header pipes and mufflers. 

[benebob]

Okay first dumb series of questions. Having read the clymer 850 section on forks i am confused as to what needs to be done to do a fluid swap as it seems they want ya to disassemble the whole
Fork and 1/2 the front end. To drain and refill
I just need to remove the hex bolt on the center on the top guessing 32mm nut then take the 32mm nut off turn upside down to drain then refill?  As Charlie said these are probably sp forks
Do they get atf as well and how much should each get?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

There's a drain screw (originally an "allen"/socket head) down at the bottom. To refill, I put a jack under the sump (with wood to protect the fins), unscrew the bolt holding the damper to the top plug (M8), raise the front end a little - forks should extend - dampers drop out of the top plug. >OR< leave the M8 bolt in, unscrew the top plug from the fork tube (helps if the top triple pinch bolt is loosened), lower the jack until there's a gap between the fork tube and bottom of the top plug enough to pour oil into. Measure the correct amount of atf and refill. One of those pointy tips from a gear oil bottle makes a good mini-funnel.

The spec. for SP forks is 40 cc each leg, but 850-T is 50 cc and T3 is 60 cc. It's only for lubrication.

[benebob]

All fluids aside from brake fluid has been changed but I do have some dot 3 waiting for some new pads to arrive to do that.  Spent today going over some electrics.  Seems I can get just about everything to work minus the tail light wiring.  Can't seem to find a T3 us wiring diagram but from looking at the euro wiring diagram and an online 74 usa t diagram I am assuming that the red wire going to the rear is for the tail light and the yellow is the  brake light.   There is a larger gauge black wire as well which from the 74 diagram appears to be for the plate light but that doesn't make much sense watt wise.  Also, I have two maybe 24-26 gauge black wires in the headlight bucket that I had thought might be grounds for the front turns but it doesn't appear they are grounds.  They are cut so any help on what these might have been for would be a big help.  Finally the fuse box is missing the  bottom fuse which from what it looks like to me the bottom two fuses are spare and aren't wired to anything is that right?  If not a diagram of what each one goes to would be lovely.  Still not exactly sure what I want to do for switches as what i have though working isn't for the long term as a po wired the left switch externally 

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Wiring diagram at page 60 of 62 here:
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/owners_manual_850-t3_1975-06_en.pdf