Stornello Gear Shift Adjustment

[Stornello Fellow]

Got my 2016 Stornello back from the repair shop and the gear shift lever is just a bit too high. I find myself having to really lift my foot up to upshift and step off my peg to downshift. It's very annoying. I had them adjust it, but it seems to be back to being a little too high. It's great for when I wear my adventure boots, but I rarely wear those.

I thought there was an adjustment rod, and there is, but there isn't anything in the middle to rotate so it moves up and down. It's apparently a bolt I get to from the other side of the bike to move the lever a tooth or two up/down. Which bolt is this? I'd hate to go back to the shop, and I want to learn how to fix these things on my own. Anyone have an image of which bolt I'm supposed to loosen to drop the gear shift lever a tooth or two? Thanks everyone!

[guzzisteve]

Here Look parts book V7II scroll down to Stornello and page 15

https://www.guzzitek.org/parts_list/pb/750/V7-II_PL_Compil.pdf

[Stornello Fellow]

Here Look parts book V7II scroll down to Stornello and page 15

https://www.guzzitek.org/parts_list/pb/750/V7-II_PL_Compil.pdf

I don't have a V7II Racer. Page 24 of the English V7IIi manual has the diagram, but I have no idea what bolt to look for. Is it #3?

[DoubleGuzzi]

Here Look parts book V7II scroll down to Stornello and page 15

https://www.guzzitek.org/parts_list/pb/750/V7-II_PL_Compil.pdf

..but I have no idea what bolt to look for. Is it #3?

Good grief!

Page 385 Item eight. Loosen nuts top and bottom on the rod; rotate to adjust length; tighten nuts. Repair chapped hands and apologise to bike for swearing at it so much.

(Can also be achieved by shifting either of the arms 4 & 9, by one spline notch. You may need to completely remove bolt 6, to do so. This might be slightly more accessible depending on where the Allen bolt head is positioned.)




[Edits]Further detail.

[Bulldog9]

Look again, it is adjustable unless the OEM was replaced.

It adjustable just as Double Guzzi says.

[guzzisteve]

Sounds like he's not mechanical, hasn't a clue. Hey, make him a vid on it.

[Stornello Fellow]

Good grief!

Page 385 Item eight. Loosen nuts top and bottom on the rod; rotate to adjust length; tighten nuts. Repair chapped hands and apologise to bike for swearing at it so much.

(Can also be achieved by shifting either of the arms 4 & 9, by one spline notch. You may need to completely remove bolt 6, to do so. This might be slightly more accessible depending on where the Allen bolt head is positioned.)




[Edits]Further detail.

Thing is, the middle part of the rod isn't there for adjusting. See pictures. I believe it's bolt 3 on the second pic I loosen to move it a tooth or two.



 

[guzzisteve]

You got it, or loosen the locknuts on each end of rod & turn the threaded rod between. Try the bolt in pic 2, one or 2 splines. You got it
Sorry bout thinking otherwise.

[Stornello Fellow]

You got it, or loosen the locknuts on each end of rod & turn the threaded rod between. Try the bolt in pic 2, one or 2 splines. You got it
Sorry bout thinking otherwise.

No, I'm pretty much half an idiot, so you weren't too far off. I can't get that bolt loose to turn it a tooth, so I'll use the rod to adjust it. Still learning! Thanks for everyone's help.

[BMCMOTO]

A word of caution here. Sometimes Guzzi does things a little backwards. If one of those two nuts on that link is not lefthand thread, turning that link rod will not lengthen or shorten the overall length, just move the rod back and forth. So use caution when loosening the nuts and recognize what you are trying to accomplish. Good luck with this!

Brian 

[guzzisteve]

No, I'm pretty much half an idiot, so you weren't too far off. I can't get that bolt loose to turn it a tooth, so I'll use the rod to adjust it. Still learning! Thanks for everyone's help.

Put a pipe over the wrench or use a hammer & strike wrench to break loose the bolt It may have loctite on it.

[DoubleGuzzi]

Put a pipe over the wrench or use a hammer & strike wrench to break loose the bolt It may have loctite on it.

For more leverage with an Allen key, I use a 10 or 12mm ring spanner hooked around the long end.

The top nut on 1st photo is strange (hollow?) and now I see the actual item, I'd be tempted to go for option two..
Going by photo 2, it looks as though you would need to remove that Allen bolt completely, in order to remove the pivot arm, then you can replace it moving up a notch. It is likely easier to hold the gear lever in the position that you want, then push the pivot arm back on to the notches/slots.

[Stornello Fellow]

I got it. It was the link rod. I used a 3/8" to hold the static nut and 10mm to loosen the top and bottom ones and rotated the rod to get the shifter lower. Then tightened it all back up. Thanks for helping!

[Vagrant]

No worries! We all learned by trial and lots of error.

[guzzisteve]

You still have to get that allen out, how else will you grease the shaft through the frame. Replace it w/a hex. You did good.

[DoubleGuzzi]

You still have to get that allen out, how else will you grease the shaft through the frame. Replace it w/a hex. You did good.

Coincidentally, I'll be doing the same with the Classic. Seems like there's a lot of wear there and ideally a phosphor bronze sleeve should be inserted. Until sourced at a sensible price, I'll probably just put a washer on, to take up some of the end float.

[guzzisteve]

Big block's have a plastic bushing & Lee Bruns makes a bronze one for us, I changed all mine on Cal2 & EV. An area that's always been cheapened up from mfg.

[Vagrant]

Odds are you can walk into a big hardware store and find one that you can modify to fit.