Fork cap removal with the Stanchion in the clamp

[JulienFlry]

Hello riders.

I am about to change the oil in my forks.
I was about to crack loose the fork cap with the stanchion blocked in the 3 clamp but the service manual is kind of explicitly saying to do it with a vice clamp and the leg out.

I am about to do something incredibly stupid if i do it with the fork mounted on the bike ? as far as i am aware the clamp is made of aluminum.
 
Also i wanted to crack it loose before i loosen the triple tree bolt but i found a lot forum saying we should loosen the top triple tree bolt before to loosen the fork cap, i am really scratching my head to understand why, that would put most of the effort on one part of the stanchion instead of two.

am I missing something ?
thanks

[Huzo]

I think they are advising to take the fork tube out before loosening the cap, because there is some deformation of the tube due to the clamping of the top pinch bolt and I imagine the concern is that the cap will be too tight.
However.
If you do go ahead and loosen the top pinch bolt, then “crack” the cap loose, you will have no dramas. If the cap has a hex head, try to do it with a six sided socket and if you can, use a rattle gun.
What bike do you have ?

[guzzisteve]

Correct , loosen top pinch then unscrew the cap, holding tube with lower pinch bolt. This is how I do it also & no drama.
You will have to make sure of fork alignment after wheel is put back on. 

[JulienFlry]

now i think i finally get it, the top bolt is deforming the fork to press against the cap.
Yes i already ordered the 30mm six sides socket, i read also to tape the cap to avoid marking it.
I have the V7 Stone :)

Thanks guys

[Moparnut72]

Six sided sockets and wrenches are you friends. I bought a bunch of new six sided tools when I went to work in the airplane shop. I still use them everywhere I can.
kk

[Kev m]

Unless I missed it reading too fast I didn't see anyone mention the MAKE SURE TO RAISE AND SUPPORT THE BIKE FIRST. You want to let the fork leg extend and make sure the spring is not compressed or the cap could pop off with some force once loosened.

And yes, loosening the upper pinch bolt is the standard recommendation across most brands/models when the fork is still installed.

[JulienFlry]

Guys I am changing the oil now and I thought I had a KAIFA fork because of the K printed inside the leg. However during the removal I found 2 spacer , one on the top of the "compressor" I don't remember the name and one below between the compressor and the spring. Does it mean it's a Marzochi ?

[Kev m]

Guys I am changing the oil now and I thought I had a KAIFA fork because of the K printed inside the leg. However during the removal I found 2 spacer , one on the top of the "compressor" I don't remember the name and one below between the compressor and the spring. Does it mean it's a Marzochi ?

No

That's a K, that's a Kafia period.

Do you think the Kafia shouldn't have both? I spot checked the parts book for my 2013 (which has Kafia, but I thought could have had either) and it shows both.

But, has someone been in it before? 

And by "Compressor" I'm assuming you mean the spacer that sits between the cap and the spring? And by "spacer" you meant washer?

[JulienFlry]

Ah no that's what I was afraid to read.
In the doubt I filled the fork with the Marzochi specs... I guess I have to remove everything again and take out 3 cm of oil or its not a big deal ?

Yes I meant exactly this , spacer are the washer, by the way I don't even find then in the service manual drawing.

That's why I don't trust mechanic anymore

Thanks Kev m

[Kev m]

Ah no that's what I was afraid to read.
In the doubt I filled the fork with the Marzochi specs... I guess I have to remove everything again and take out 3 cm of oil or its not a big deal ?

Yes I meant exactly this , spacer are the washer, by the way I don't even find then in the service manual drawing.

That's why I don't trust mechanic anymore

Thanks Kev m

Did you measure how much oil you drained? That's always a good way to help double check yourself.

Also keep in mind that the air gap can be changed from factory spec but that will affect the way the fork works/feels.

IIRC the specs are for a 150mm gap for Marzocchi forks or a smaller 120mm gap for Kafia. I wound up going with a 130 mm gap on 10W oil for my Kafia forks this year and am very happy, but I'm a big guy (~230#).

So wouldn't you have to actually add more oil if you went with the Marzocchi gap?

[JulienFlry]

Actually yes i would have to add :)
i didn't measure how much i drained.
well ok i am glad to hear at least that we can change the air gap.
I have also 10w, so if you like 130 mm , for my light weight (70kg) i am assuming i would need less oil so maybe the 150mm will work just ok.
In case i will just open the cap and add 50ml  without taking everything out :)

i am really curious how those 2 washers ended up there...

thank you guys, i am not super active on the forum but i ve learn a lot thanks to you, 1 year ago if would never imagine do this kind of job alone.

[Kev m]

Actually yes i would have to add :)
i didn't measure how much i drained.
well ok i am glad to hear at least that we can change the air gap.
I have also 10w, so if you like 130 mm , for my light weight (70kg) i am assuming i would need less oil so maybe the 150mm will work just ok.
In case i will just open the cap and add 50ml  without taking everything out :)

i am really curious how those 2 washers ended up there...

thank you guys, i am not super active on the forum but i ve learn a lot thanks to you, 1 year ago if would never imagine do this kind of job alone.

My limited understanding is that air compresses while fluid doesn't, so it's probably more important not to overfill the fluid. Or stated another way it's probably better to have a larger air gap than too small an air gap.