V7-850 oil usage

[buck]

Recently the oil usage on my bike seems to have increased. I am aware there may have been some ‘21 V7-850’s that got bad rings.

History:

I purchased this bike new from Cadre in Oct ‘21. I am currently at 27,000 miles. It has always used some quantity of oil, and I always find some oil carry over in the airbox (see photos). I had calculated oil usage to be in the neighborhood of 1 qt every 3000 miles, which most manufacturers wouldn’t consider to be excess. But recently the oil usage seems to have increased.

Today I decided to run compression and leak down tests. The engine was cold. Results were 130 PSI cranking compression in both cylinders. Leakdown (150
PSI shop air pressure) was 2% on the left cylinder and 3% on the right, equating to 3 PSI loss on the left cylinder and 4.5 PSI on the right. Guzzi doesn’t provide compression and leakdown specs, but by most anyone’s definition the leakdown results indicate a healthy engine. The compression results seem a little low to me, but in the absence of an actual spec from Guzzi I can’t say one way or the other.

If I can definitively confirm there is an issue with the rings I have no problem tearing it down and re-ringing it, but I don’t want to spend the time/money on it unless I can confirm that’s the issue.

Based on what I’ve provided, what do the late model small block experts have to say?

Thanks!

[CoolBreezeBreva]

Maybe go back to Enzo and query him on what's going on?

[TN Mark]

How much oil are you putting in at an oil & filter change? The reason I ask is that many overfill the engine oil. As evidenced by always having oil in the airbox.

On the 1400's, the 'manual' says 4 liters. The entire engine with the filter and the oil radiator with lines may hold 4 liters. But if you put more than 3.25 liters in, it will blow out through the airbox.

If adding a spacer were an option on the 850 I'd do that in a heartbeat. The 'small block' Guzzis all seem to hold too little oil and blow out too much. One quart in 3000 miles is an insane amount of oil consumption IMHO.

My point of reference: my Victory with over 105K miles would barely use a few ounces every 2500 miles. 4.25 quarts out and 4.5 quarts in every 2500 miles. And that motor had cams, a modified exhaust, a modified intake and a custom tune. It never needed to be babied. There was never a need to check the oil level either. My current Victory is the same.

Too early to tell on my Eldorado 1400. 

[Bulldog9]

How much oil are you putting in at an oil & filter change? The reason I ask is that many overfill the engine oil. As evidenced by always having oil in the airbox.

On the 1400's, the 'manual' says 4 liters. The entire engine with the filter and the oil radiator with lines may hold 4 liters. But if you put more than 3.25 liters in, it will blow out through the airbox.

Agreed.

The bike will find its own level and oil in the airbox usually indicates it is overfilled. If it is going from full to 1/2 and you keep refilling, it isn't burning oil, its puking it.

If you haven't yet, I would watch it once it gets to about 1/2 on the dipstick. If it drops to the 'low' mark on the bottom of the DS, you are burning oil. If not, the bike is just finding its own level.  All of my Guzzi's have done this with only few exceptions (Griso doesn't do this). The first time I did the service on the Stornello, I had been topping off the oil, and found the airbox puddled with at least 1/4 quart of oil, and the air filter was SOAKED with oil. I adjusted the oil fill level to about 1.5 liters and have never had the problem again. I absolutely flogged the bike in 2025 chasing a bunch of 850's (V7 & V85) all over the south and out to Arkansas, and it didn't burn a drop.

OK, one caveat. I make no statement but fact of my experience and observation.  Initially I used Guzzi Blood (what my grandson calls Motul) and Liquimoly. I found that the motor did burn a slight amount over my OCI which is 3K for oil and 6K oil & filter. In 2025 being in the middle of moving and unpacking, I didn't have time to dig, so I ordered a full Oil Change Kit from AF1. It came with the Castrol.  That was the oil in the trip where I didn't burn a drop. I've now changed over all my Oil CHanges to the Castrol 10W60 Euro Car oil and order it by the case from Amazon.........

[malik]

130psi seems somewhat low, but I have no experience with the 850 engine. My V7C reads 170/175psi. And I'm going to check it again.
This is the first recurrence I've heard of the small block disappearing oil phenomenon - it was recorded on a very few of the twin throttle body 750 engines. The oil would just vanish - no leaks, no smoke, just gone. I bought a 2011 V7C that had suffered this - the PO reported using 1L every 600km, until he got caught out & the engine seized. I'm yet to take the engine apart to check it out - my main disincentive for this is although I can take the engine apart, I don't really know what to look for or what I'd be looking at. Professionals may well have the experience (& the measuring tools), but I've not heard of any explanation so far for the phenomenon.

Just by the way, my single throttle body 2014 would pool oil in the airbox if filled to the specified 2L. Then oil was pushed up the manifolds past the throttle body, resulting in very rough running until all was cleaned out of the system.  Even when only filled to 1900ml a film of oil would line the airbox each service. Otherwise, this bike would mostly use hardly any oil at all over each 10,000km. My twin throttle body V7C on the other hand, still uses around 500ml of its1750ml capacity over its 7500km service period.

I wish you the very best of luck on this, & waiting with bated breath on proress.

[buck]

Thanks for the comments so far.

I fill the oil level to 1/2 way up the sight glass hot. I also have a V85 that doesn’t use any appreciable oil. I know that’s a different sump design, but the point being I know about not overfilling a Guzzi.

I’m definitely questioning the 130 psi compression reading and thought about reaching out to Enzo to see if he knows what is normal. I can’t take the bike to him because I now live several states away, and I wouldn’t take it to anyone anyway because I was a professional tech for many years and am capable of handling the mechanical work myself.

If anyone knows what “normal” compression is on the 850 hemi head please post.

Thanks!

*edit — completely forgot that my garage altitude of 4300 feet will lower compression readings by about 20 psi compared to sea level. And again, this was a cold engine. I may check it hot as well.

[Kev m]

I just stopped by to say that you don't check compression or perform a leak down cold engine in order to compare to specifications (if available). Cold they are only used to spot extremes like a dead cylinder.

Those numbers sound good to me for cold at partial altitude.

[MikeP996]

Compression check should be done with engine at operating temp, and throttle full open.  As noted, cold compression check is good for extreme problems but not accurate for general engine condition.  BUT if your leak down test is good (should also be with warm engine), then the engine is good; it's a much more thorough/accurate test than compression for indicating the condition of an engine.

[buck]

I just stopped by to say that you don't check compression or perform a leak down cold engine in order to compare to specifications (if available). Cold they are only used to spot extremes like a dead cylinder.

Those numbers sound good to me for cold at partial altitude.

Thanks Kev, I’m aware. It was just a quick and dirty test on a day when it was raining and I couldn’t take the bike out to properly warm it up. Btw, I’m Bueller on Advrider.

[Vagrant]

Go borrow a different compression tester from an auto parts store and do it hot with the throttle open. FYI, I seem to recall the starter button won't work with the throttle open so get a push button jumper just in case. Change to the Euro car Castrol. I did that a while back and it seemed to stop the tiny bit one of my bikes used and it's way cheaper on line than the fancy stuff.
Any chance the rings just aren't seated yet? I acquired a 2016 stone form an elderly gentleman who had gotten 13000 miles from the original rear tire. I get 3000. It was using oil at 13000 miles. A thousand mils of 4-6000 RPM mountain riding fixed that.
FWIW, my 2020 v85 with the bad rings started running for S... at about 13000. No power, missing etc. The dealer never told me what the compression was.

[buck]

Go borrow a different compression tester from an auto parts store and do it hot with the throttle open. FYI, I seem to recall the starter button won't work with the throttle open so get a push button jumper just in case. Change to the Euro car Castrol. I did that a while back and it seemed to stop the tiny bit one of my bikes used and it's way cheaper on line than the fancy stuff.
Any chance the rings just aren't seated yet? I acquired a 2016 stone form an elderly gentleman who had gotten 13000 miles from the original rear tire. I get 3000. It was using oil at 13000 miles. A thousand mils of 4-6000 RPM mountain riding fixed that.
FWIW, my 2020 v85 with the bad rings started running for S... at about 13000. No power, missing etc. The dealer never told me what the compression was.

If the rings aren’t seated by now they are never going to seat. This bike has spent most of its life in the mountains with lots of full throttle time.

I have no reason to question the readings on my compression tester. It is a Mac brand that I have owned for eons and used on countless cars and motorcycles when I was a professional wrench.

I’m using the same castrol oil you mentioned, courtesy of O’reillys.

Thank you for the suggestions!

[guzzisteve]

10.5/1  + or - .5-1                Warm it would be at least 180, I'd warm it up before tearing it down. Ring time Chinese stuff in there buy something else  NOT stock.