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I'm up to 9600 miles on 2024 Stelvio 00044. I completely enjoy the bike, but all I can compare it to is my 2007 Norge and the earlier 2003 California EV and a friend's 2005 BMW GS. It's way better than those. Suspension is stock but all the settings were adjusted by Jim Hamlin at the first service. I imagine upgrades would make it better, but I am content with it as is; maybe I don't know any better. It clunks into first gear, and is top heavy and a little bit tall, but the engine, comfort, and ride quality more than offset those "issues" which aren't really issues to me.
I wish it had a compression adjustment because IMO its fixed on sport touring with a rider and luggage or rider and pillion; new the rear can be particularly jarring unless you back the rebound off almost all the way. I keep a screwdriver and a socket under the seat and tend to make large changes just to see what happens then fine tune; I will say it's mellowed a bit with age but still prefers weight for that compliant/sporty balance.