V85 Rear Wheel Removal trouble

[Luap McKeever]

So I needed to mount some new tires. Problem is, the bolt that holds that brake caliper assembly (I think it's called a plate) absolutely would not come out. I broke 3 allen wrenches and two 1/2" bit drivers. I got it to come out about 3/8" of an inch max. Finally said screw it and removed the caliper and went that route.




Now the problem is I cannot get that bolt back in at all. Same problem, way too hard. I never got it out all the way so I know it's not cross threaded. It's all secure and I've been riding it like this but I would much prefer to get the bolt back in. Have any of you ran into this issue and what was the resolution?  I'm thinking I could try heating it up quite a bit and try that.

Thanks

[Dirk_S]

I bought a V7 swing arm for my V9 racer build, and discovered the previous owner/salvage shop/ebay seller had cross-threaded the caliper mounting pin. Once I muscled it out, I struggled to thread it back in. The thread size is not common enough that I could find a suitable thread chaser with my cheap dollars, so I took a spare pin that I had lying around, ground off the flange head, and, retaining the interior hex socket, threaded it all the way through from the inside, repairing the threads (enough) for my need. If you’d like, I can mail the homemade “pin bolt thread chaser” out to you, assuming the caliper pins are the same across the small blocks (Edit: all Heron heads post-2003 and hemi-head small blocks indeed share the same pivot pin, Part# GU31544181)—if you think the threads could possibly be buggered.




If you really don’t think it’s knackered threads, my other guess is due to old thread locker compound that wasn’t cleaned off the last time it was removed from the swingarm?

[Luap McKeever]

I bought a V7 swing arm for my V9 racer build, and discovered the previous owner/salvage shop/ebay seller had cross-threaded the caliper mounting pin. Once I muscled it out, I struggled to thread it back in. The thread size is not common enough that I could find a suitable thread chaser with my cheap dollars, so I took a spare pin that I had lying around, ground off the flange head, and, retaining the interior hex socket, threaded it all the way through from the inside, repairing the threads (enough) for my need. If you’d like, I can mail the homemade “pin bolt thread chaser” out to you, assuming the caliper pins are the same across the small blocks (Edit: all Heron heads post-2003 and hemi-head small blocks indeed share the same pivot pin, Part# GU31544181)—if you think the threads could possibly be buggered.




If you really don’t think it’s the threads, my other guess is it’s due to old thread locker compound that wasn’t cleaned off the last time it was removed from the swingarm?

I may take you up on that offer. Thanks. I'd like to give it a bit more time for others to chime in with similar issues/resolutions.

[TN Mark]

Do you think it was installed with red LockTite? If so, yes, heat it up to soften whatever may be in their.

[kballowe]

I recently had a similar issue on a different motorcycle brand.

I ended up removing the assembly and applying heat to remove the offending bolt.  I then ordered the correct tap and chased the threads.

Worst case scenario is that you order a new plate and bolt.   

[BMCMOTO]

If this is the pin that is threaded into the swingarm, the caliper reaction pin/stay pin or whatever you want to call it, Guzzi has a history of using the highest strength loc-tite in their arsenal on these things. Heat is your friend, heat gun hot, not blue flame or hair dryer, but heat gun hot, about 250-350 degrees Fahrenheit should do it. Pain in the _____ but doable. You can roach the threads by forcing it.

Brian

[ridingron]

My 2¢ worth? I would use heat as mentioned (heat gun). If you use heat, try to remove the bolt quickly. I believe the thread locker will re-set and lock the bolt again as it cools.

[Dirk_S]

I haven’t checked other service manuals, but at least for the V7 III book, threadlocker is not listed in the notes beside the torque spec. And now that I’m thinking about it—I don’t recall seeing threadlocker on mine in the past, so perhaps galling causes the stiffness that happens commonly, considering we’ve got a steel pin with fine threads going into an aluminum swing arm.

[Grabcon]

On my 2020 V85TT I have always loosen the axel first and then the bolt for the caliper mount. I don't know if this is the correct procedure, but I have found that the caliper bolt seems overly tight when the axel is not loose. I reverse the procedure for the install.

They are also dissimilar metals so check for corrosion. Clean the threads on the bolt. Not sure how to do the bolt hole unless you use a tap, but be careful and make sure the tap is correct. Also use a lubricant.

[PeteS]

I have found loctite used on the majority of fasteners on my 2025 V85. Places you never saw it before like on the sidecover screws. I only use on places that are hidden. Probably just a reaction to the litigious world we live in today.

Pete

[Bulldog9]

I had a similar problem on that bolt on my V7ii Stornello the first time I removed it. Was Loctite. I used a hammer impact device to break it loose.

[jcctx]

Is it where you can use a "rattle gun" on it? Would try to drive it in a bit then reverse to get out??

[Vagrant]

My 2020 was frozen in place and I broke a 40 year old Allen wrench right off. I put a torch on the back of the pin from the right side and it released it pretty quick. I saw no signs of lock tight when I removed it.

[Moparnut72]

I have found loctite used on the majority of fasteners on my 2025 V85. Places you never saw it before like on the sidecover screws. I only use on places that are hidden. Probably just a reaction to the litigious world we live in today.

Pete

I think MG must have gotten this from HD who puts so much Loctite on everything that I think they buy it in 55 gal drums. That and cheese head screws makes life a challenge. 
kk

[Vagrant]

So what was the final out come?

[Grabcon]

So what was the final out come?

Don't you just hate it when there is no follow up?

[Dirk_S]

Don't you just hate it when there is no follow up?

…or patience ;)

[Luap McKeever]

So what was the final out come?

I actually haven't gotten to it just yet. My plan is to heat it up. Life has been very hectic lately and I'm for sure craving a ride.

Don't you just hate it when there is no follow up?

I feel that too. I'll get it done.

…or patience ;)

Yep, the least patient person on the planet is me, so I get it.

[Luap McKeever]

Thing absolutely will not budge. I put tons of heat on it, broke another heavy duty bit and said oh well. Maybe if I ever have to take to to a dealer I’ll have them fix it up. Meanwhile, I’m riding the snot out of it 

[Dirk_S]

What about applying cold to the pivot bolt? Canned air upside down sprayed onto the bolt for a little while? Mixed with some PB Blaster a little heat on the swingarm.

(Curious how much heat an aluminum swingarm can take?)

[PeteS]

Appreciate the heads up. Just tried taking the one on my bike out and no problem. After breaking it loose I could take it out by hand. Lots of small threads that thread into the swingarm, not the bracket as expected. Applied never seize before threading back in.

I am wondering if this is a known problem area? I bought my bike from Jim Hamlin. The threads on the bolt in my bike was covered in lubricant. Wondering they did that as part of the setup?

Pete

[Vagrant]

Did you apply the heat to the other side of the bolt? That is what broke mine loose. There was no sign of locktite but it to snapped a good quality allen wrench the first time on the 2020.

[Perazzimx14]

What about applying cold to the pivot bolt? Canned air upside down sprayed onto the bolt for a little while? Mixed with some PB Blaster a little heat on the swingarm.

(Curious how much heat an aluminum swingarm can take?)

The aluminium alloy swingarm can tolerate much more heat than the paint or any threadlocker used in or around it can.

[Vagrant]

I started backwards and put the torch on the end of the bolt and that did it.

[PeteS]

Having taken that bolt out, I now doubt they ever used loctite. The thread is over an inch long with very fine thread. Loctite would make it near impossible to take out even if it was the weakest strength. I am guessing if it was put in dry and water got into the threads its being held in due to electrolysis. Aluminum bound to the steel galling the thread.
Its an odd thread so drilling out the bolt and retapping you would have to find that uncommon tap.
Cold applied to bolt might help but you would have to use something like liquid nitrogen to get it cold enough. If you have a dermatologist friend they might lend you their spray bottle used to remove blemishes.
I have had some luck using penetrating oil then heat and trying to torque the bolt back and forth. Then repeat until you can detect some movement.

Pete

[73 sport]

      What was the rationale for using such a fine thread?

[Moparnut72]

Good question. I have wondered the same.
kk

[Dirk_S]

      What was the rationale for using such a fine thread?

Finer thread is stronger than course thread (https://www.nord-lock.com/learnings/bolting-tips/2010/choose-fine-or-coarse-thread-bolts/)

Considering the pivot bolt threads into the swingarm the opposite direction that the braking torque is applied to the caliper, I assume the finer thread counters that torque and vibration.

[Luap McKeever]

The aluminium alloy swingarm can tolerate much more heat than the paint or any threadlocker used in or around it can.

No, I only tried the front. I might give the backside a try next,