V7 Break-In Service (Oil Change/Sump Spacer/H Bolts/Valves/Clutch Adj etc)

[Kev m]

Just remember that if you take the alternator bolts out hot, let it fully cool before checking valves.

As a regular course, I get it hot, drain the fluids, and remove the cover, then let it overnight before checking valves (assuming you're doing a fluid change).

[guzzibob]

Sump spacer. I'll never bother with one. Yes I know, my 32 year old Monza is probably about to have a catastrophic failure any decade now and it will be all my fault.  :BEER: If you do a quick measure you will find the height of the oil above the pick up is about the same as a big Tonti with a spacer and much higher than any of the round fins. Look up and you will see that the block casting has a web that minimises windage too.
add the litre of oil in the gearbox and you have 3L, the same as in a Yammie 1100.

Cheers

Rod

The reason for the sump spacer has nothing to do with windage, and even less to do with early small blocks like your Monza or the V65 I used to own. The reason is that the newer small blocks (like, 750 Breva on) have an oil capacity of only 1.75 quarts and sometimes when new tend to burn a little oil until the rings bed in. Starting with only 1.75 quarts if you lose any significant amount bad, bad things happen-like you blow up your motor at the cost of a couple thousand dollars, easy. The sump adds a full quart more capacity, which is huge %age wise. Compared to the cost of the engine rebuild, the $300 for the sump spacer strikes me as cheap insurance. Ed Milich who races Guzzis and Ducatis  saw a couple of torched motors on street small blocks not remotely ridden that hard, then designed and now makes these sump extenders. The older small blocks just didn't seem to have the new bike oil burning issues like the new ones sometimes do.

[Richard Tasmania]

15,000 km service peformed today.
1. The tank would not go back on.
2. The air filter just would not fit. I checked with a different Guzzi dealer and it is the correct part. It appears to me that the lip is too thick. I cleaned the old air filter and put it back in. I had so much trouble getting to this filter and replacing the screws. I am sure I will end up putting in helicoil threads.
3. I set the valves at 0.1 intake amd 0.15 exhaust. This resulted in much reduced engine noise while coasting. I have read here on this forum that these tolerances are too small but I had already done the service. It sounds better to me. I think the person who suggested different tolerances also posted a link. I cant find it now.
4. The final drive oil was milky like it had water in it. I changed it just before Christmas at the 7,500 km service.
5. What is the story with the gearbox plug? It is so hard to get back in. I moved the crossover pipe. Got there but boy, why not leave 10 mm more room?
6. I replaced the plugs but also checked the ones coming out. The gap on those was way over.
7. Love this bike.
8. Hope my California Vintage arrives later in he week. So excited.[/font][/font][/font][/font][/font]

[Kev m]

Yours is probably OK, but I would be concerned if the valve train was completely silent.

A tappy valve is a happy valve :)

[sign216]

Charles,

I wrote a guide on changing the air filter.  You might find a tip there that makes it work.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/sets/72157638864403325/

Click on each photo to display the text below.

[Vasco DG]

The reason for the sump spacer has nothing to do with windage, and even less to do with early small blocks like your Monza or the V65 I used to own. The reason is that the newer small blocks (like, 750 Breva on) have an oil capacity of only 1.75 quarts and sometimes when new tend to burn a little oil until the rings bed in. Starting with only 1.75 quarts if you lose any significant amount bad, bad things happen-like you blow up your motor at the cost of a couple thousand dollars, easy. The sump adds a full quart more capacity, which is huge %age wise. Compared to the cost of the engine rebuild, the $300 for the sump spacer strikes me as cheap insurance. Ed Milich who races Guzzis and Ducatis  saw a couple of torched motors on street small blocks not remotely ridden that hard, then designed and now makes these sump extenders. The older small blocks just didn't seem to have the new bike oil burning issues like the new ones sometimes do.

Whatever was done with the re-design of the pistons and rings that occurred at the same time as the adoption of the single TB it seems to have cured the oil-drinking issue. Oddly the only bikes that seem to have really suffered from it are the FI 750's. Why? No idea, but the new pistons have substantially shorter skirts and like most modern pistons are more heavily relieved at the sides. Perhaps they don't go all sorts of queer shapes when they get hot and the older design did? The FI bikes do run appreciably hotter than the older, carbed, machines though which is probably why Rod has never had a problem with his smallblocks.

What always fascinated me is where the oil goes to? When you take apart one of the ones that has seized its big ends after running out of oil there are no signs of oil being burnt in the combustion chambers, nor are the air boxes overly contaminated or full of oil! They don't smoke before they seize! Sometimes they drink an entire sump in a very short period of time! It just vanishes! Its very vexing.

Pete

[Richard Tasmania]

Does anyone have a list of the tourque settings for V7C servicing? I am particularly interested in oil filter and sump plug.

[Kev m]

The aluminum is pretty soft, be careful with the torque specs if you're not sure of your wrench calibration.

[Zoom Zoom]

Kev, I was just looking back through this thread since it has been revived. I didn't scour the thread, but did you ever get your question answered about the one way valve? I assume you were referring to item 28 in the picture, right? Anyway, that does resemble the one way valves Stucchi uses in the fuel line for their aux tank for the Stelvio.

BTW, Your bike really appeals to me. It looks good set up the way you have it.

John Henry

[Kev m]

John, you talking about this post?

Hmmm, maybe I've got this all wrong - is that a one-way valve in the common crankcase line?

http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-by-motorcycle.html

http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-by-motorcycle/2010-2020-moto-guzzis/v7-special-stone-750-2012-2013/air-box-en-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-20-21-22-23-24-25-26-27-28.html



And there are breather filter elements in the air box - wonder if they are ever supposed to be replaced?

I stopped worrying about it.

I don't know if that's a cranckcase vent, or oil drain back?

But I've found nothing in the form of air box drain that needs periodic service.

Oh, and thanks, I'm tickled with it.

[Loftness]

Those bolts....hate those bolts.  Learned the hard way doing my first service.  Bent two of them and had to find replacements. and then over tightened one of the replacements, sinking it into the soft plastic cover because my lighting was poor and I wasn't paying attention.  I think there's another thread here somewhere about them as well.

[Cam3512]

Just did my first service - 607 miles on my '14 V7 Special. My first small block.  Few observations on head re-torque and valve adjustment that might help...

After my last ride I loosened the alternator cover bolts while hot.  Not necessary as there was no Loctite on the bolts.  Came out easily, went back with blue.

Didn't realize spark plug was so small. Glad I had my thin walled socket left from the Calvin's inner plugs. Gap was fine, color perfect.

Propped up the rear of tank with 2x4 for more room, good suggestion (I DID think to leave tank almost empty).

Crush washers under 4 large valve cover bolts stayed in place. Cover came off smooth with gasket reused.  Added some grease to insure longevity.  I did buy some spares as insurance.

Tappets initially at TDC were TIGHT!  Once I re-torqued the head bolts, valves were still in spec at .006 in and .008 out.  No adjust necessary.

Added some anti seize to valve cover bolts, and buttoned it up.

Fresh fluids and sump spacer installed.  Guzzi breakfast tomorrow to shake it all down.  Life is good!

Cam

[davedel44]

Facinating reading for a rainy afterternoon on the Texas coast.  Hard to digest in one sitting but I sure, it will be extremely useful when I get enough miles to service my brand new white 2013 Stone.  ;D  Happy to join the ranks of v7 owners and thankful for all the work you guys, especially Kev, have put into this thread.  This may be a bit off topic, but has anyone been able to source a HP saddle rack in black in the US?  Listed as part # 650540-001 on the HP German ? site.  I know some folks have purchased the chrome version (Where?) and had them powder coated, but I'd prefer the black to begin with.  Chrome is not my friend in this salty environment.

Thanks again for the informative and extensive posts.

Dave
Galveston, Island just off the coast of Texas

[Kev m]

If no one has it in the US, bet the same EU supplier Cam just used for the c-bow racks could get it here reasonably fast and cheap.

[Cam3512]

If no one has it in the US, bet the same EU supplier Cam just used for the c-bow racks could get it here reasonably fast and cheap.

Motobins in the UK.  Special ordered HB C-Bow racks and had them in less than 3 weeks. 

[Eddose]

After reading this post and all that followed.  I am under the impression that my salesman has no idea what he is talking about.

He said....  The first service is just an oil change.  Which made me cringe at the 300 dollar service fee.

I can change the oil myself.

Stupid question:  (even after reading this post) But want to make sure....

The first "break in" service is NOT just an oil change, is that correct?

Yes, I know it's a stupid question.... but please answer anyway, before I throw away $300 for an oil change.

I am not the tech savvy to do most of what you have listed here.

Is it really worth bringing it into the shop for them to do?


Ed

[Vasco DG]

No, at the first service all the major oils are changed, engine, gearbox and bevelbox, oil filter too should be changed and the head bolts cracked off and re-torqued. The latter is it seems important as they can leak if the re-torque isn't performed. Valves are adjusted after the re-torque. I suggest you find a shop that has a service manager who can read.

Pete

[Pfaff!]

Does anyone have a list of the tourque settings for V7C servicing? I am particularly interested in oil filter and sump plug.

There is, or maybe was, got it somewhere deep down in one of the computers. But if my memory doesn't fail again the values are standard values for the bolt specs, say 10 Nm for a lightly oiled M6. Those tables can be found anywhere on the internet.
The ones for which you really need a light hand are the gearbox- and rear sump drain bolts. The bolt heads are oversized and too much force are easily applied if they are tightened by hand!

[Cam3512]

Ed,

First service requirements are specified in the small book that came with the bike.  It will show what is needed at 1000 km, etc.  Exactly what Pete said above.  It helps if your Guzzi dealer can read, I'd do it myself.

Cam

[Chuck in Indiana]

If you can't do the first service, find someone that can. It's pretty important...

[Vasco DG]

There is, or maybe was, got it somewhere deep down in one of the computers. But if my memory doesn't fail again the values are standard values for the bolt specs, say 10 Nm for a lightly oiled M6. Those tables can be found anywhere on the internet.
The ones for which you really need a light hand are the gearbox- and rear sump drain bolts. The bolt heads are oversized and too much force are easily applied if they are tightened by hand!

Anders, the head stud nuts that are re-torqued are not the rocker cover bolts. On a smallblock there are four ten millimetre studs and one 8 millimetre stud. From memory, (I should remember, I did one on Friday!) the 10mm ones are torqued to 32 ft/lbs and the 8mm one to 26 but RTFB!

Pete

[Kev m]

Anders, the head stud nuts that are re-torqued are not the rocker cover bolts. On a smallblock there are four ten millimetre studs and one 8 millimetre stud. From memory, (I should remember, I did one on Friday!) the 10mm ones are torqued to 32 ft/lbs and the 8mm one to 26 but RTFB!

Pete

Or maybe just read the first post of this thread... :D

[Eddose]

Thank you guys.  I knew the answer by reading the posts but wanted to specifically ask.

The salesman at the shop is not very knowledgeable about GUzzi's (nor am I.)

I am not sure about the service guys, the store and shop just opened.  (The sign isn't even up yet)

I will ask for credentials when I go in to get it done.


Thank you again for entertaining a stupid question.

Ed




 

[Pfaff!]

Anders, the head stud nuts that are re-torqued are not the rocker cover bolts. On a smallblock there are four ten millimetre studs and one 8 millimetre stud. From memory, (I should remember, I did one on Friday!) the 10mm ones are torqued to 32 ft/lbs and the 8mm one to 26 but RTFB!

Pete

Oh yes, I was referring to the drain bolts only. :)
Whish you were in Britain, they do use metric these days over there.... ;D

[Pfaff!]

Or maybe just read the first post of this thread... :D

After all these years, and you still overestimates our abilities. Some never learn. ;D

[Loftness]

Where's the 'face palm' emoticon when you need one?

Well at the least, if you're going to service the bike there make sure they know what they're supposed to be doing.  "Just an oil change..."  Maybe if he'd said, "Just and oilS change" it would have been a little closer to the truth. 

Do the guy a favor though and at least let him know. 

[Eddose]

Went and talked with the service manager in length.  About the bike, the first service and the salesman.

I am happy with what I heard and he gave me the extensive list of things that will be done (by them) at the first service.

The salesman also got a talking too by SM, about selling service.

I knew that it was a stupid question but I wanted a list of what should have been done at the first service,  you guys did not disappoint.

All is well,  carry on.

Thanks,
Ed

[jules]

hi kev , how did u reset the maintenance on the clocks . thought it had to be done at the dealers  on there software , or can u reset with the buttons  , thanks

[pyoungbl]

The service icon can be reset from the "A" and "B" buttons, no need to go to the dealer.  FWIW I understand that on the newest BMWs only the dealer can do this and they are urged to charge $50 for the change.  Be glad you have a Guzzi.

Peter Y.

[Frulk]

For perspective: I just had the 2014 V7 600 mile service completed at the dealer.   $336 Labor/$120 parts/Total: $456..plus..Tax.$32.    Grand total:  $488.00