V7 Break-In Service (Oil Change/Sump Spacer/H Bolts/Valves/Clutch Adj etc)

[Kev m]

hi kev , how did u reset the maintenance on the clocks . thought it had to be done at the dealers  on there software , or can u reset with the buttons  , thanks

See post #18 earlier in this thread.

For perspective: I just had the 2014 V7 600 mile service completed at the dealer.   $336 Labor/$120 parts/Total: $456..plus..Tax.$32.    Grand total:  $488.00

WHAT? :o

Dayum....:-X

[Frulk]

Sadly...when you toss in the 90 mile round trip and consider the cost of gas for the truck and $270 I spent at Cabelas while I waited on the bike to get done it gets even worse :'(

[organfixsing]

The bike looks nice Kev. Are tyhe panniers the Moto Guzzi ones or Hepco & Becker. If they are H & B, what model?

Thanks in anticipation

Brian   ;D

[Kev m]

The bike looks nice Kev. Are tyhe panniers the Moto Guzzi ones or Hepco & Becker. If they are H & B, what model?

Thanks in anticipation

Brian   ;D

HB 30L Juniors, which were the official MG bags at one point.

[ClassicV7]

Getting ready to attempt valve adjustment on 2012 V7C (~7800 miles) . This thread has been a great resource.

Questions?
1. Looking at the front of the crank, are you turning clockwise or counterclockwise?
2. Does it matter which order valves are adjusted (first intake, then exhaust or other way around? 
3. Is it necessary to tork the head bolts when doing valve adjustment?
4. Additional gaskets and rubber valve cover caps are being ordered so I have them before the big day. Any other parts worth having on hand?
5. Any other recommended adjustments or servicing when doing valve adjustment?
6. Any other tips or suggestions?

Thanks everyone

[Cam3512]

Getting ready to attempt valve adjustment on 2012 V7C (~7800 miles) . This thread has been a great resource.

Questions?
1. Looking at the front of the crank, are you turning clockwise or counterclockwise?
2. Does it matter which order valves are adjusted (first intake, then exhaust or other way around? 
3. Is it necessary to tork the head bolts when doing valve adjustment?

Additional gaskets and rubber valve covers are being ordered so I have them before the big day.
Any other tips or suggestions?

1. Clockwise

2. No

3.  '13 + engines ( not sure about '12) call for a head bolt torque at the first service only.  Only valve adjusts thereafter.

Take both plugs out before rotating the engine.  I personally shine a flashlight into the plug hole to find TDC on the intake compression stroke.  You'll see the piston rise then pause for a moment, that's TDC.  If you've got it right you should be able to pull up and down on the rockers.  Now set intake and exhaust with feelers. I'm really anal with this (takes me longer). There should be a certain amount of drag on the feeler guage when setting the gap.  Once tightened down (don't overtorque the adjuster nut) I make sure I can't "easily" slide in the next size larger guage.  There are many ways to skin this cat, this is mine.  Repeat other side.

[Kev m]

Cam has you covered.

I'll add that the cylinder head retorque has been part of the FIRST SERVICE ONLY for the smallblock for years, including all modern versions that I know of and presumably that includes the V7II as well.

As for tips - be careful when tightening things, don't overtighten and strip things like the drain or fill plugs.

Be careful with the oil filter cap, if you overtighten that bolt you'll probably crack the cap.

If you think that might happen, it could be worth the $10 to have a spare handy, but that shouldn't happen unless you're really not paying attention.

[Cam3512]

 One more thing. The engine should be stone cold before adjusting the valves. So let the bike sit overnight and then go to work.

[ClassicV7]

thanks for the tips

[Steve Swan]

As i write this, a good friend of mine is picking up his new Moto Guzzi from Dave Richardson at Moto International. 

I asked my friend to ask Dave if heads on my 2011 V7R need to be retorqued at any given mileage interval from new. 

Dave told my friend, "No head torque or retorque required at 600 miles or thereafter."

What thoughts do you have why would Dave Richardson say to not retorque heads ?

[Kev m]

As i write this, a good friend of mine is picking up his new Moto Guzzi from Dave Richardson at Moto International. 

I asked my friend to ask Dave if heads on my 2011 V7R need to be retorqued at any given mileage interval from new. 

Dave told my friend, "No head torque or retorque required at 600 miles or thereafter."

What thoughts do you have why would Dave Richardson say to not retorque heads ?

For whatever reason he seems to be ignoring the OEM owner's manual, OEM service manual, AND the factory bulletin that Pete told us about which specifically said retorquing is still required on the Smallblock.

Maybe he's making a bad assumption based on much more limited experience than the factory. Maybe he's assuming the newer gaskets don't require it? Maybe he thinks just because the big blocks don't require it the V7 shouldn't either?

But I'll trust three factory sources and another dealer (Pete) thanks.

[sib]

I totally agree with Kev m.  You wouldn't want to have a blown head gasket down the line because you didn't torque the head bolts at 600 mi, and have a warranty claim denied because you didn't follow the service instructions.  Perhaps I'm being a bit presumptuous, but maybe you should suggest to Dave Richardson that he read the manual.

[Kev m]

Well, Dave is not without experience.

So I would probably ask WHY he recommends that in light the of the factory sources that say otherwise. If he claims the manuals are out dated I'd ask him how he explains the service bulletin which is the deciding factor for me.

I wish I had a copy or at least the reference number. Pete or anyone?

[tonUPRacer]

Just completed my first valve adjustment and thought I'd add my notes to this thread. I had the 600 mile break-in service completed by Rose Farm, so this was the 6K mile service. I followed all suggestions mentioned in the thread and they were very helpful. I'm just wondering why a valve adjustment isn't covered in the service manual? Anyway, I did loosen the alt. cover bolts with a warm engine and they weren't tight at all, I was shocked how easily they turned out. I was even more shocked the next morning when I tried getting them out of a cold engine since I had only loosed them up for the next day, they really tighten up!  So I guess having a warm engine is key to getting those out without much trouble. I also used a 2x4 to prop the tank for working room, another good tip.

With 6 valve cover bolts removed, I had to tap my valve covers with a rubber mallet to free them up, the gaskets were stuck to the head but peeled off without any trouble or residue. The spark plugs came out easily and looked nicely burned with greyish hue. My left side cylinder valve clearances were: exhaust slightly loose and intake slightly tight. I forgot to check the other side before loosening the locknut, so I can't tell you were they were at.

My next notes are for dummies (as I am one) so if you master tech's know something I don't, please enlighten me as I'm sure you will!

Dummy Tip #1. To make the actual adjustment use a 10mm combo wrench and flat screw-driver. Hold your adjustment screw in place while tightening your locknut. Does anyone have torque values for those locknuts? I just went snug by feel. My first attempt by adjusting and tightening with a ratchet resulted in moving the adjustment screw .

Dummy Tip #2. My biggest frustration during the job was getting my new rocker cover gaskets seated when putting the covers back on. Ultimately I found that a dab of grease on the cover and then inserting the the 2 center bolts through the cover with the gasket in place and then gently placing on the head while lining up the holes and slowly threading those bolts me the best result. All the other gasket holes were lined up (I used flashlight to look for any overlap). I then put the other 4 bolts in. (Again torque values anyone?)

I managed to get this done in about 2.5 hours which I think I can cut by an hour or so next time since I was going extra slow and triple checking things along the way. I also made TDC marks with paint so that should also help next go 'round. I started my little baby up and I'll be darned if it didn't even sound better than before! Oh and no leaks, which is really what I was most concerned about.

Cheers.

[sib]

Torque value for the valve adjusting nuts (M6) is 10 Nm.  For the valve cover bolts, 8-10 Nm all around.  Head bolts:  28 Nm for the top one (M8) and 42 Nm for the other four (M10).

[Eadnams]

See post #18 earlier in this thread.

WHAT? :o

Dayum....:-X

Just quoted $661.44  here in Alberta/Canada

[Cam3512]

Just completed my first valve adjustment and thought I'd add my notes to this thread. I had the 600 mile break-in service completed by Rose Farm, so this was the 6K mile service. I followed all suggestions mentioned in the thread and they were very helpful. I'm just wondering why a valve adjustment isn't covered in the service manual? Anyway, I did loosen the alt. cover bolts with a warm engine and they weren't tight at all, I was shocked how easily they turned out. I was even more shocked the next morning when I tried getting them out of a cold engine since I had only loosed them up for the next day, they really tighten up!  So I guess having a warm engine is key to getting those out without much trouble. I also used a 2x4 to prop the tank for working room, another good tip.

With 6 valve cover bolts removed, I had to tap my valve covers with a rubber mallet to free them up, the gaskets were stuck to the head but peeled off without any trouble or residue. The spark plugs came out easily and looked nicely burned with greyish hue. My left side cylinder valve clearances were: exhaust slightly loose and intake slightly tight. I forgot to check the other side before loosening the locknut, so I can't tell you were they were at.

My next notes are for dummies (as I am one) so if you master tech's know something I don't, please enlighten me as I'm sure you will!

Dummy Tip #1. To make the actual adjustment use a 10mm combo wrench and flat screw-driver. Hold your adjustment screw in place while tightening your locknut. Does anyone have torque values for those locknuts? I just went snug by feel. My first attempt by adjusting and tightening with a ratchet resulted in moving the adjustment screw .

Dummy Tip #2. My biggest frustration during the job was getting my new rocker cover gaskets seated when putting the covers back on. Ultimately I found that a dab of grease on the cover and then inserting the the 2 center bolts through the cover with the gasket in place and then gently placing on the head while lining up the holes and slowly threading those bolts me the best result. All the other gasket holes were lined up (I used flashlight to look for any overlap). I then put the other 4 bolts in. (Again torque values anyone?)

I managed to get this done in about 2.5 hours which I think I can cut by an hour or so next time since I was going extra slow and triple checking things along the way. I also made TDC marks with paint so that should also help next go 'round. I started my little baby up and I'll be darned if it didn't even sound better than before! Oh and no leaks, which is really what I was most concerned about.

Cheers.

As far as the adjuster nut and valve cover bolts, don't over tighten.  Both can strip easily.  Just snug up by hand.

[Kev m]

Bumped for Doc!

[SportsterDoc]

Bumped for Doc!

Thank you, Kev
M8 head botls are 28 Nm = 20.6 ft lbs
M10 are 42 Nm = 30.9 ft lbs

After looking at the vent hose spring clamps, I see why you suggested lifting the tank a few inches.

With plugs out, why not rotate tire to get TDC, rather than remove front engine cover?

Will go back and re-read.

[Kev m]

I didn't bother lifting the tank this last time. Maybe I'm getting used to it.

I really prefer the precision of turning the crankshaft with a socket to the rear tire, but that's not an option on later V7 models with a wet alternator, so the rear tire will be fine.

[SportsterDoc]

I didn't bother lifting the tank this last time. Maybe I'm getting used to it.

I really prefer the precision of turning the crankshaft with a socket to the rear tire, but that's not an option on later V7 models with a wet alternator, so the rear tire will be fine.

Ahh...thanks for the update.

[mulehill]

I just caught up with this thread. At 600 Miles my dealer, Reina International in Milwaukee, WI, only performed an oil change. Not too long after that I reviewed the service intervals and had another shop (The Shop) perform the full 600 mile recommended service. I have about 4,000 before my next service and 2,000 on my current oil from late last spring. Do you guys recommend I change the oil since it will soon be a year old or should I wait till the next service interval later in the season. Anyone form SE Wisconsin use Reina? I lost my faith from that 600 mile service incident, but could be swayed to give them another try. While I have a ton of BMW air head wrenching behind me, my condo is not too conducive for wrenching thus the need for competent shop.

Thanks!
Joe

[Kev m]

My usage and storage conditions told me long ago there's no reason for me to be changing oils earlier than mileage or time. These days most of my bikes get changed by time (and I tend to stretch that a little too if the mileage is low enough).

[JProdun]

I change earlier because 99% of my riding is commute on NYC streets... And for the peace of mind. I  go 2000 to 2500 between services, which happens every 6 months or so.


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[mulehill]

My usage and storage conditions told me long ago there's no reason for me to be changing oils earlier than mileage or time. These days most of my bikes get changed by time (and I tend to stretch that a little too if the mileage is low enough).

Changed by time: do you mean annual if it's before the service mileage?

[Kev m]

Changed by time: do you mean annual if it's before the service mileage?

AnnualISH (but generally yeah).

[mulehill]

AnnualISH (but generally yeah).

Thanks for the clarification Kev.

[kingoffleece]

One more thing.  Try not to disconnect the breather hose to the head.  It's a bear to get it back on.
I also use the grease trick to locate the gasket.

[TimmyTheHog]

Just want to rebump and thank you all for the information!

wow...this is a lot of info in this thread!

I am a new V7 owner and have not had the chance to ride her...stupid snow/rain storm in BC Canada...hopefully by July I will get my first 1K KM service done. Bike has been sitting in storage for the last year and only got 70 KM on her.

I wish the first service to be done by a dealer *personal thing* also get ECU updated @ the same time if any.

I got quoted about $350 CND + tax here by Chilliwack Motorsports...

With this thread, I will have a good idea what to watch out for and ask for when they do my service.

by the way, my is a 2015 V7 Stone...RED...LOVE the RED!

[Jim C]

Now that the snow has melted, I can finally think about
doing my first service on my 2016 V7II.

Two questions, to wit:

1.  Didn't I read that I have to tighten the head bolts twice, as you would tighten them
to one torque value, and then go back and tighten to the next value? and...

2.  Do I need to change my valve cover gaskets?

TIA,

Jim