Author Topic: jackal temp cutoff? (Read 32285 times)

Enrico Pallazzo · « **on:** February 08, 2015, 05:35:58 PM »

Quick question. Does the Jackal have a temperature cutoff? My oil light came on and now the bike will not turn over. I'm hoping it's not seized.

rodekyll · « **Reply #1 on:** February 08, 2015, 05:39:56 PM »

Did you check the oil? How much is there and what does it look like?

Get a screwdriver in the timing hole and try turning he engine with the ring gear. Optimistically, it could be an electrical or starter problem.

The oil light coming on at speed is never a good thing unless it's just a bad sender. Doesn't sound like your case. :(

Enrico Pallazzo · « **Reply #2 on:** February 08, 2015, 05:42:05 PM »

It was after idling in traffic. I'm stranded at the moment.

Enrico Pallazzo · « **Reply #3 on:** February 08, 2015, 05:51:45 PM »

Not looking good. The starter clicks but no cranking. I find it hard to believe that it would seize with no idiot light going on.

Enrico Pallazzo · « **Reply #4 on:** February 08, 2015, 05:58:16 PM »

Oil looks and smells OK. How screwed am I if it seized?

Enrico Pallazzo · « **Reply #5 on:** February 08, 2015, 06:09:58 PM »

Should I be able to turn the engine by pushing with the plugs in place? Don't have a wrench here on South Beach.

Vasco DG · « **Reply #6 on:** February 08, 2015, 06:16:44 PM »

You should be able to feel the crank turning and one or other of the Pistons coming up,against compression. If it just moves a short distance and then stops with very little 'Give' then you have probably seized it. There is a small amount of 'Give' from the input shaft shock absorber but on a later model like a Jackal it will be very slight.

If it has seized most likely culprits will be a loose oil filter or the oil pressure relief valve having jumped ship.

Pete

Enrico Pallazzo · « **Reply #7 on:** February 08, 2015, 06:17:09 PM »

Thanks. GEICO is on the way. I guess I'll learn the truth soon.

Enrico Pallazzo · « **Reply #8 on:** February 08, 2015, 06:20:13 PM »

Good news, possibly. It appears that it reluctantly turns when I push from the side. No joy when sitting on it. I guess it's too hard from that position.

Hoping for the best.

Enrico Pallazzo · « **Reply #9 on:** February 08, 2015, 06:28:29 PM »

Wondering about the alternator now. If it's not up to snuff, maybe idling ran the battery down. But that wouldn't explain the oil light. The battery light came on after a few very brief efforts to turn it over.

oldbike54 · « **Reply #10 on:** February 08, 2015, 06:31:46 PM »

Did the idle drop really low for a bit before the bike died ?

Dusty

Enrico Pallazzo · « **Reply #11 on:** February 08, 2015, 06:39:29 PM »

Memory is not perfect, but it didn't lock up instantly. Just petered out.

fotoguzzi · « **Reply #12 on:** February 08, 2015, 06:42:42 PM »

I'd get a known good battery first... maybe that's all that's wrong..

oil is good? don't get too worried yet, there will be plenty time for that once you get some answers.

biking sailor · « **Reply #13 on:** February 08, 2015, 06:50:06 PM »

Quote from: fotoguzzi on February 08, 2015, 06:42:42 PM

I'd get a known good battery first... maybe that's all that's wrong..

oil is good? don't get too worried yet, there will be plenty time for that once you get some answers.

This! Make sure there is plenty of current to the starter before worrying about catastrophic engine failure. Odds are that it is something simple to do with the electrical.

Simple and electrical, is that a contradiction in terms???

Enrico Pallazzo · « **Reply #14 on:** February 08, 2015, 06:51:07 PM »

I'll find out some day. The tow guy is on Cuban time.

radguzzi · « **Reply #15 on:** February 08, 2015, 07:03:02 PM »

Quote from: Pasta Hog on February 08, 2015, 06:39:29 PM

Memory is not perfect, but it didn't lock up instantly. Just petered out.

Quote from: biking sailor on February 08, 2015, 06:50:06 PM

This! Make sure there is plenty of current to the starter before worrying about catastrophic engine failure. Odds are that it is something simple to do with the electrical.

Simple and electrical, is that a contradiction in terms???

Engine slowing aside... Did the other V11 models of the same vintage suffer the locking starter that the Quotas did...? Mine just clicked and the new, re-glued magnets fixed the issue.

Hoping for the best for you.

Rob

Chuck in Indiana · « **Reply #16 on:** February 08, 2015, 07:03:34 PM »

It sounds electrical to me.. hopefully that is all it will be.

Enrico Pallazzo · « **Reply #17 on:** February 08, 2015, 07:24:40 PM »

You guys have been helpful. Riding in tow truck now. Thanks.

oldbike54 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 08, 2015, 07:39:13 PM »

Hey PH , any chance it was the charge light you saw and not the oil light ?

Dusty

Wayne Orwig · « **Reply #19 on:** February 08, 2015, 07:41:37 PM »

Sounds like it lost RPM, so the oil and or charge light came on.
I vote for the odds being electrical.

Enrico Pallazzo · « **Reply #20 on:** February 08, 2015, 08:16:12 PM »

I am in the garage with the bike now. It's back on the tender. I don't know how good a Schumacher tender is for this kind of situation. Maybe I should just haul out the big charger.

I've been posting about a hum that comes from the front of the bike. I thought it was gone, but it turns out it starts after the bike is warm. Someone said the voltage regulator can make that sound. I don't know if a failed regulator would cause the problem I had.

I've only been in one vehicle that seized: a Pinto my cousin was driving. It didn't gradually crap out like my bike. It went KLUNK, and that was the end.

I have to look around for my manual. I have a downloaded workshop manual, but I don't have a PDF of the owner's manual, which would explain the idiot lights. I don't know exactly what the oil light means. I know it should signal low oil pressure, but I don't know if it has any other significance. There is no light specifically for overheating.

Wayne Orwig · « **Reply #21 on:** February 08, 2015, 08:23:50 PM »

Quote from: Pasta Hog on February 08, 2015, 08:16:12 PM

I have to look around for my manual. I have a downloaded workshop manual, but I don't have a PDF of the owner's manual, which would explain the idiot lights. I don't know exactly what the oil light means. I know it should signal low oil pressure, but I don't know if it has any other significance. There is no light specifically for overheating.

The oil light means only low oil pressure (or a failed sensor). There is nothing for overheating.

Enrico Pallazzo · « **Reply #22 on:** February 08, 2015, 08:25:13 PM »

Now I'm really mad. I'm at home with the bike, which cooled off during the tow. I just turned the key on, and the battery and oil lights were still on. For the hell of it, I tried to start it. Fired right up. Lights turned off.

??? ??? ??? ???

I mean, yes, I'm extremely relieved. But DAMMIT.

Enrico Pallazzo · « **Reply #23 on:** February 08, 2015, 08:33:45 PM »

I guess I should ask: can I fry this motor by idling too long? I know I'm just an ignorant consumer, but I would have expected some kind of warning light.

Vasco DG · « **Reply #24 on:** February 08, 2015, 08:35:41 PM »

In which case the flat battery is almost certainly down to the alternator not charging. Grab a multimeter and stick it across the battery terminals. Start bike and rev engine to 4,000 rpm. Does the voltage remain the same? Or does it go up to 13.7-14.3 volts?

If there is no voltage rise most likely cause is a dead reg/rec.

Pete

Enrico Pallazzo · « **Reply #25 on:** February 08, 2015, 08:44:03 PM »

I will test the voltage tomorrow. Stupidly, I did not keep the bike running when it started, so now the battery is too low to get it going again, and I'm too tired to fool with it.

I am wondering why a voltage regulator would hum. I don't have the slightest idea what components are in one. I have some knowledge of electronics. Maybe if I look this up I can get a clue. Someone recommended a replacement a while back. I'll see if I can find that.

The impression I have is that the bike charges well at high revs but not low. This is my working theory at the moment.

I'm fairly sure the guys at the local shop think I have brain damage, so it would be nice to fix this without their help.

Bill Havins · « **Reply #26 on:** February 08, 2015, 09:09:27 PM »

Make sure the Negative terminal of the battery is grounded to the engine/transmission - not just to the frame.

Make sure the voltage regulator case is grounded to the engine - add a wire if you have to.

You will find these two issues mentioned in many threads about the Ducati voltage regulator, IIRC.

Good luck!

Enrico Pallazzo · « **Reply #27 on:** February 08, 2015, 10:05:21 PM »

I am seeing prices of $200+ for that Ducati regulator. It must have a core of gold. I wish I had a schematic so I could see if there was a way to avoid that price tag.

I recently moved the battery around while fiddling with the petcock and making a fruitless attempt to get at the fuel filter. I'll check the cables to make sure I didn't leave anything off.

rodekyll · « **Reply #28 on:** February 08, 2015, 10:20:37 PM »

Buy the HD equiv in black off ebay for ~$30-$40. There are new takeoffs from when the rider upgraded to chrome. I think Wayne has the part#. All I remember is that it ends in 89. You have to change the wire ends.

1Sourdough · « **Reply #29 on:** February 08, 2015, 10:22:54 PM »

Quote from: Pasta Hog on February 08, 2015, 05:51:45 PM

Not looking good. The starter clicks but no cranking. I find it hard to believe that it would seize with no idiot light going on.

Does the Jackal have starter relay problems? Could that be the situation?

News:

Author Topic: jackal temp cutoff? (Read 32285 times)

Vasco DG

oldbike54

biking sailor

oldbike54

Vasco DG

Bill Havins