Question for Norge owners

[bobbyfromnc]

You folks that have owned a Norge for a while I have the following question... Besides normal checking of tightness of Fasteners... bolts, nuts, allen nuts etc. Anything that stands out in your mind to be on the lookout for? Thanks, BK

[Vasco DG]

Wallopers. Especially when you're having fun. Oh, and unicorns, nothing will spoil your day like running into a unicorn. You have to spend hours talking to Fox News reporters and then deal with the hate mail from the Unicorn Protection League.

Pete

[bratman2]

Besides a rare fake warning of loss of oil pressure on dripping, humid Eastern NC mornings, nothing! That is due to moisture in the connection. Mine has been trouble free for a little over three years. People stopping you to ask what is it, would be the only other thing I can think of.

[atavar]

The only real issues on the Norge are a snatchy throttle at parking lot speeds (generic CARC design issue) and a rear brake that needs to be bled quartarly.  Aside from those I do love my Norge. 

[Gliderjohn]

Ditto on my 2011, just maintanance and a aftermarket windscreen for better comfort.
GliderJohn

[bobbyfromnc]

Wallopers. Especially when you're having fun. Oh, and unicorns, nothing will spoil your day like running into a unicorn. You have to spend hours talking to Fox News reporters and then deal with the hate mail from the Unicorn Protection League.

Pete

LOL...  :BEER:

[bobbyfromnc]

Thanks for your replies.

[PJPR01]

I would recommend checking the oil drain tube from time to time...you'll see it on the RHS near the brake pedal.  Squeeze the clamp on the hose to let the oil drain out if it looks like it's accumulating.

Any grease around the CARC fill plug...make sure that's tight.

Normal maintenance otherwise...

[bobbyfromnc]

I would recommend checking the oil drain tube from time to time...you'll see it on the RHS near the brake pedal.  Squeeze the clamp on the hose to let the oil drain out if it looks like it's accumulating.

Any great around the CARC fill plug...make sure that's tight.

Normal maintenance otherwise...

Thanks!

[Vasco DG]

If you are getting a large build up of oil in the airbox drain it's because you are overfilling the sump.

Pete

[bratman2]

A good computer tune will take care of throttle issues. Over three years and no rear brake issues on mine. Careful not to let my oil get above the middle of the dip stick and have yet to drain more than an oz. total. Really not much to not love. It has character, sounds great, draws lots of questions and attention. Pretty comfortable for extend periods of time. Lots of carry space too! Maintenance is pretty easy too.

[PJPR01]

and while not exactly a "bike" maintenance issue, I would also highly recommend getting a better seat than stock if you plan to ride this longer than a couple of hours.  The corbin seat I have makes all day riding totally comfortable, the stock one puts me backside to sleep after about 2 hours.  So not sure if you want to file that under "body" maintenance!   :)

[auzziguzzi]

 :+1

The corbin seat I have makes all day riding totally comfortable, the stock one puts me backside to sleep after about 2 hours.  So not sure if you want to file that under "body" maintenance!   :)

[atavar]

A good computer tune will take care of throttle issues. Over three years and no rear brake issues on mine. Careful not to let my oil get above the middle of the dip stick and have yet to drain more than an oz. total. Really not much to not love. It has character, sounds great, draws lots of questions and attention. Pretty comfortable for extend periods of time. Lots of carry space too! Maintenance is pretty easy too.

A computer tune does not clean up the low speed throttle snatchiness.  That comes from the excessive play in the carc.  If you want to see what I mean shut the bike off, put it in gear, and see how far you can rock it back and forth.  The bike will move full inches.  The throttle at low speeds is about like a chain drive bike with a very loose chain.  This is a drive train design issue.  No amount of engine tuning is going to overcome a loosely coupled drive train. 

[Vasco DG]

A computer tune does not clean up the low speed throttle snatchiness.  That comes from the excessive play in the carc.  If you want to see what I mean shut the bike off, put it in gear, and see how far you can rock it back and forth.  The bike will move full inches.  The throttle at low speeds is about like a chain drive bike with a very loose chain.  This is a drive train design issue.  No amount of engine tuning is going to overcome a loosely coupled drive train. 

Sorry but no. The backlash you feel in the driveline is in the gearbox between the engagement dogs, it has nothing to do with the reactive drive system behind it.

The term 'Computer tune' is also misleading. The bike has to be tuned correctly to perform optimally. That includes a raft of adjustments not just plugging in a computer.

Pete

[bratman2]

 I really don't notice anything snatchy about the low speed operation of mine. This is the third shaft drive bike I have owned so maybe it was just better than the other two.

On the other hand I do remember three quirks that had to be addressed. Front rotors that felt warped at 5-6k. I installed EBC HH pads, cleaned the rotors, scuffed them and cleaned the bobbins. Has been fine every since. The famous "starter interuptus" which I did the bypass wire on with fuse. Been fine every since. The last time I saw the oil pressure warning was last summer. Had made my mind up to purchase a new sender the next time it showed up, must have scared it into fixing itself. The right front fork seal shite herself. I replaced it myself even though it was under warranty. Nearest dealer is in another state away from me and I intended to change the fork oil out for 15w just the same.

On the seat, different butt different results. I had no problem with the factory seat. I did purchase a factory gel seat, mainly because it was a very good deal. It does seem to be a little more comfortable than the stock seat.

[lucian]

Wallopers. Especially when you're having fun. Oh, and unicorns, nothing will spoil your day like running into a unicorn. You have to spend hours talking to Fox News reporters and then deal with the hate mail from the Unicorn Protection League.


I see Pete's feeling better!

[jovato]

I have only had mine since August, when I bought it new.  Mine has been absolutely without fault, and a joy to ride.  I suppose what others are referring to as a snatchy throttle I think of as just having good torque down low.  I personally prefer this, but I am coming from an M109R that had monster torque off the line.  I like being able to instantly shoot out of city traffic to change lanes, etc.  Actually, I guess it was not completely without fault.  One of the catches on one of my side cases did not lock to the bike properly, and the case had to be replaced.  Motoguzzi did this under warranty without question.  The service manager said that they had a few of those with the same issue.  Apparently, there was a bad run of cases.  The new one is rock solid.  As to the CARC, I can't speak to longevity at this point.  What I can tell you is that this bike has the least amount of shaft jack of any shaft driven bike I have ever owned or ridden.  To me, this is a very well mannered ride with all of the bells and whistles you need and none of what you don't.

[Idontwantapickle]

No cupholder. Otherwise it is all grins!  ;D  :bike

[bobbyfromnc]

No cupholder. Otherwise it is all grins!  ;D  :bike

LOL...  :bow

[frans belgium]

and while not exactly a "bike" maintenance issue, I would also highly recommend getting a better seat than stock if you plan to ride this longer than a couple of hours.  The corbin seat I have makes all day riding totally comfortable, the stock one puts me backside to sleep after about 2 hours.  So not sure if you want to file that under "body" maintenance!   :)

But try the stock seat first, I've done hauls on my Norge's stock seat of 800 miles  with passenger and without problems.  Otoh, the Corbin I put on my EV 10 years ago, went after 1000 km.  To each his own, I guess.

[Bill Hagan]

But try the stock seat first, I've done hauls on my Norge's stock seat of 800 miles  with passenger and without problems.  Otoh, the Corbin I put on my EV 10 years ago, went after 1000 km.  To each his own, I guess.

Exactly ... tho my longest day was a mere 600.   :D

Bill

[ohiorider]

and while not exactly a "bike" maintenance issue, I would also highly recommend getting a better seat than stock if you plan to ride this longer than a couple of hours.  The corbin seat I have makes all day riding totally comfortable, the stock one puts me backside to sleep after about 2 hours.  So not sure if you want to file that under "body" maintenance!   :)

I put a Corbin on the 1200 Sport.  Not quite as 'sporty' looking without the b&w cowl, but miles more comfortable.  Ride the stocker close to home, drop the Corbin on for a road trip.

[canuguzzi]

Proper use of the clutch virtually eliminates drive snatch.

I must confess though that low speed riding isn't something I do much of.  ;-T

Don't over think a Norge, ride it and ride it and ...

[geezerboy]

 Have an 07 and as above developed warped rotors at about 8 k . Changed the rotors ( under warranty ) and clean and loosen the bobbins about every 500 miles with no further problems . Last year began having the mysterious starting problem which seriously reduces confidence for long trips . Have also experienced loss of rear brake ( air in line ) . Other than that an excellent , comfortable tourer except my significant other no longer trusts it .
  Geezerboy

[atavar]

Proper use of the clutch virtually eliminates drive snatch.

I must confess though that low speed riding isn't something I do much of.  ;-T

Don't over think a Norge, ride it and ride it and ...

I guess I need someone to teach me to use the clutch after 40 years of riding then.  All I know is that I should be able to roll at parking lot speeds without riding the brake and/or feathering the clutch.  At least on my Norge trying to navigate at 5mph creates some significant clunking and jerking as I transition between leading and trailing throttle.  The only solution I have found is to ride the brake to keep the drivetrain loaded and stay in the leading throttle mode. 
Any time there are inches of drive train play from whatever cause moving from leading to trailing throttle is going to make a clunk and a jerk.
I have had several good Guzzi shops look at the Norge and they all say "That's the way they ride".
I have not had to do this on any of the non-carc bikes I have owned unless I let a drive chain get seriously loose or a u-joint or two was dying.  My G5 was a pleasure to ride at 3mph. 
If there is a better driving method I would love to hear it.  From my experience the Norge is not ever going to be competitive in a slow race.

Other than this issue I seriously love the Norge.  It is the overall best handling most comfortable most reliable bike I have owned. 

[smdl]

Have an 07 and as above developed warped rotors at about 8 k . Changed the rotors ( under warranty ) and clean and loosen the bobbins about every 500 miles with no further problems . Last year began having the mysterious starting problem which seriously reduces confidence for long trips . Have also experienced loss of rear brake ( air in line ) . Other than that an excellent , comfortable tourer except my significant other no longer trusts it .
  Geezerboy

Hi, Geezerboy.

Have you done the Startus Interruptus mod?

Cheers,
Shaun

[ohiorider]

I guess I need someone to teach me to use the clutch after 40 years of riding then.  All I know is that I should be able to roll at parking lot speeds without riding the brake and/or feathering the clutch.  At least on my Norge trying to navigate at 5mph creates some significant clunking and jerking as I transition between leading and trailing throttle.  The only solution I have found is to ride the brake to keep the drivetrain loaded and stay in the leading throttle mode.  
Any time there are inches of drive train play from whatever cause moving from leading to trailing throttle is going to make a clunk and a jerk.
I have had several good Guzzi shops look at the Norge and they all say "That's the way they ride".
I have not had to do this on any of the non-carc bikes I have owned unless I let a drive chain get seriously loose or a u-joint or two was dying.  My G5 was a pleasure to ride at 3mph.  
If there is a better driving method I would love to hear it.  From my experience the Norge is not ever going to be competitive in a slow race.

Other than this issue I seriously love the Norge.  It is the overall best handling most comfortable most reliable bike I have owned.  

I tend to do a lot of clutch work on my CARC bikes at low speed (crawling in traffic) to ride around the drive train lash .  Same held true for most of my oilhead and K (brick) BMWs, not quite as much for the older carb'd R100GS.  I assumed this lash was in the final drive unit of my 1200 Sport until I pulled it.  I found play between the ring and pinion gears is non-existant, so the lash must be in the tranny, maybe in the shift dogs.  I agree, aside from a few niggling issues, the bb CARC bikes are wonderful machines.

[PJPR01]

But try the stock seat first, I've done hauls on my Norge's stock seat of 800 miles  with passenger and without problems.  Otoh, the Corbin I put on my EV 10 years ago, went after 1000 km.  To each his own, I guess.

  Definitely, seating and seat comfort are totally unique - body type, riding position, types of roads, stopping and stretching all play into comfort as well as hydration I think.  One other thing I did was buy LD Comfort undergarments for truly big trips as they have no seams and eliminate all discomfort from normal underwear.    Now...onto more interesting topics such as whether Blue Chimay is better than Red Chimay!   :)

[frans belgium]

Now...onto more interesting topics such as whether Blue Chimay is better than Red Chimay!   :)

Definitely, your words made me grab the Blue one as I type  ;D