Stripped Pan Bolt

[Kevin M]

I went to change the filter & oil on my new (to me) 96' California 1100, I bought it with like 7500 miles on it. It truly looks like new, I was told the oil was changed yearly even though it wasn't ridden often, I drained the oil & I doubt the oil was changed very often, I got all of the pan bolts out but one & the head is stripped on that one. Just my luck! I read some threads in the archives & got some ideas but wondering if anyone with more experience than me, has any magic tricks to get the bolt out. Another question I have, is anyone using a different style bolt (like a hex head) for the oil pan? Thanks for all input.

Kevin

[fotoguzzi]

so it's one of the perimeter allen head bolts? get a slightly bigger torx bit, drive it into the stripped hex recess and turn it out, a little heat won't hurt but can you drip some pen oil down from the block end, I think that thread goes clear thru?

if one of the center hex heads a vice grips is your friend..
.

[Wayne Orwig]

Are you using a Craftsmen allen wrench? I had some trouble until I discovered that they are undersized. They tend to round out the bolts. A proper sized tool doesn't.

[Tom]

 :+1 on what the guys said so far.

[Kevin M]

Are you using a Craftsmen allen wrench? I had some trouble until I discovered that they are undersized. They tend to round out the bolts. A proper sized tool doesn't.

It's not a Craftsman, not sure of the brand but it worked great for all of the others. I'm pretty sure it was rounded off before I started, I think I inherited that way.😄

Kevin

[Kiwi_Roy]

If all else fails drill the head with a 6mm clearance drill that will take the head off and allow you to grab the bolt with vice grips while you have the sump off.

[rodekyll]

If all else fails drill the head with a 6mm clearance drill that will take the head off and allow you to grab the bolt with vice grips while you have the sump off.

This.

[jacksonracingcomau]

It's not a Craftsman, not sure of the brand but it worked great for all of the others. I'm pretty sure it was rounded off before I started, I think I inherited that way.😄

Kevin

Problem is more likely dirt etc in the caphead, use scriber to clean before inserting allen key to avoid this

If all else fails drill the head with a 6mm clearance drill that will take the head off and allow you to grab the bolt with vice grips while you have the sump off.

This

[balvenie]

           re hex head bolts
Short answer; don't bother. My 10mm socket, which fits the head of a 6mm hex head bolt, is of too big a diameter (14mm). There is insufficient clearance with the wall of the sump.
            Nice try though mate ;-T

[Dick]

Another question I have, is anyone using a different style bolt (like a hex head) for the oil pan? Thanks for all input.

Kevin

I believe you can purchase JIS bolts that might work. You'd have to do a search to find them, though. 6mm bolts with an 8mm hex head and flange. My old VF1000 Honda was loaded with them. Good luck.

[creaky99]

https://www.buyspeedout.com/?MID=4875929

[Dilliw]

I watched Screamday take one out of my pan and he just slotted it with a cutting wheel then used a flat screwdriver.  They don't put up much of a fight.  Now I always put a dab of Permatex anti seize on those buggers when I replace.

[dilligaf]

  Now I always put a dab of Permatex anti seize on those buggers when I replace.

 :+1 Always.  If you don't have any anti seize handy a good heavy oil will work.  I always get more anti seize on me than on the bolt threads.  Doesn't take much to do the job.  :BEER:
Matt

[charlie b]

One other suggestion.  When reinstalling don't torque them too much.  I found a spec for 7ftlb.  That isn't much.  But, mine leaks less with lower torque than if I crank them up tighter.

FWIW, I only researched this cause I had one of the hex bolts break on me.

[Muzz]

For similar situations I find that the slotted screwdriver method good.  Often on the first try I will get a slot type driver just fractionally bigger that the in-hex and hammer it in.  I think the effect of the impact while doing this helps to free it.

[Tom]

Slotting the head of the bolt and using a hand impact would work only if you can lift the bike up.

[youcanrunnaked]

When I had one of the bolts snap on me when doing an oil / filter change for my EV, I was able to get it out by soaking the remainder of the bolt (the piece stuck in the engine block) with PB Blaster over the course of a few days, followed by drilling into the center of the bolt, followed by the use of an Easy-Out.  If the hex head on your bolt is rounded, drilling a pilot hole and using an Easy-Out should work.  If the head is rounded because the bolt is stuck, try some PB blaster on it.  Go slow; patience pays.

Once you get all of the bolts out, I recommend you replace all of them with new, stainless steel hardware.  Harper's Moto Guzzi sells them as a set.  Put a little anti-seize on the bolt threads before installing the bolts, and don't over-torque them; they take a light torquing -- IIRC, around 9 lbs/ft or just hand tight plus 1/2 turn.

[Bobbilljim]

Slotting the head of the bolt and using a hand impact would work only if you can lift the bike up.

Not necessarily. Could you maybe use a breaker bar and a flat head bit in no 1/4 socket? Maybe even use a floor jack to add pressure? Just to break it loose?

I'm a big fan of drilling the head. It means you have to go to ACE for a bolt but they have the right ones there.

[Tobit]

The bolt is held in tension by the head clamping the pan to the block.  Drill the head off, remove the pan and you'll be able to spin the rest of the bolt out with your fingers.

Use a drill bit just slightly larger than the shank of the bolt.

I've used this method for years and it always works.  The only time the bolt isn't free to spin with the head removed is if the threaded hole isn't blind, but open on the other end and allows the elements in, which can corrode the bolt.  In that case, PBlaster and vise grips will get it out.

T-stat cover bolt in volvo block.  Head drilled off but corroded in place.  Hole is open on bottom.  Once the head was drilled off, the cover lifted off the bolt.



Pblaster and vice grips and the bolt was out in a minute.  Head and bolt.



I've replaced the LeMans sump bolts with SS.  Do check the tightness after a couple of heat/cool cycles.  I erred on the side of not overtightening and had a couple loosen, and one fall out.  (Where's that oil dripping from?)

Tobit

[Chuck in Indiana]

around 9 lbs/ft or just hand tight plus 1/2 turn.

Scares me, and I ain't afraid of nothin..  :o

[Tom]

Not necessarily. Could you maybe use a breaker bar and a flat head bit in no 1/4 socket? Maybe even use a floor jack to add pressure? Just to break it loose?

I'm a big fan of drilling the head. It means you have to go to ACE for a bolt but they have the right ones there.

Head of the bolt???   ;D  Using a floor jack to break what loose?   ;D

[Larry Wiechman]

 Kevin, put it back together and fill it with oil. Then ride north to Roscoe, IL. I'll pull that screw out; you buy lunch. Don't drill, slot or molest it in any way.

Larry

[Bobbilljim]

Head of the bolt???   ;D  Using a floor jack to break what loose?   ;D

I left some stuff out,
Grind a slot in the head of the bolt
Put a 1/4" socket on a breaker bar,
Put a flat head bit into the 1/4" socket
I am assuming the oil pan bolt head is pointing to the floor so...
Put the flathead bit setup into the slot of the bolt
Put a floor jack with a block of wood on it under the breaker bar and lift until pressure is applied to the head of the bolt sufficient to break the head of the bolt loose. Or snap the flat head bit off into your eyeball. That's why after all that I vote for drilling the heads off...  ;-T

[blackcat]

When I purchased my 1000S I discovered that the PO applied too much pressure to the pan bolts with one of them being stripped. I sharpened up a wood chisel and gave the bolt a couple of whacks in the correct direction and it came right off. Just be careful to not hit the pan.

[John A]

So is the bolt out or did you scrap the whole pile? ;D

[Kevin M]

Kevin, put it back together and fill it with oil. Then ride north to Roscoe, IL. I'll pull that screw out; you buy lunch. Don't drill, slot or molest it in any way.

Larry

Larry,
You pick the time & day, I'll be there! I'm free anytime! I'll be happy to buy lunch and or other refreshments. I already filled it with oil & been riding it but I know I have to get it fixed. I look forward to hearing from you.

Kevin

[mradtke]

Holy cow folks I just had this happen to me Monday on my new-to-me 2001 California. 17 bolts came out, 1 with stripped out allen head stayed in. I used the above mentioned drill bit slightly larger in diameter than the bolt, drilled to cap depth and the head of the bolt popped right off. Oil pan came off and the rest of the bolt still in the bike came out by hand. When I reassembled things I just used a t-handle 5mm allen wrench to tighten things up with no leaks found later. I think I put plenty of torque to keeps things where they are supposed to be, but hopefully next year they will come out easier. All of the bolts were in really tight and I am surprised only one was bad.

Michael

[Larry Wiechman]

Kevin,
 I sent you an email with contact info.

Larry