Replacing brake lines--a tip

[Rich A]

I decided it was time to replace the brake lines on my Convert as they're nearly 40 years old. This is not a job I enjoy doing largely because the joints are often hard to disassemble. Even with a flare wrench it is easy to round off the 10 mm fittings. I used the old trick of cutting slots in the female part of the fitting with a Dremel--that heats up the joint and also weakens the fitting. Cut the slots close to the threads to weaken the joint. After doing that, the thing unscrewed w/o rounding the bolt. (If you do end up rounding the 10 mm fitting on a hard to replace hard pipe, you can grind or file the flats to fit a 3/8 wrench)




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This morning I was visiting my 92 y/o mother who was watching "The Price is Right!" One of the prizes in the big package was a V7 Stone.

Rich A

[canuck750]

Good tip!

Thanks

Jim

[mtiberio]

While I like the idea of having sections of the line be solid lines just for firmness, why not replace the entire line with braided stainless, and avoid all the intermediate junctions?

[Rich A]

While I like the idea of having sections of the line be solid lines just for firmness, why not replace the entire line with braided stainless, and avoid all the intermediate junctions?

I think that could be done, but it would be a long line, running all the way from the left front caliper to the splitter (and it would have to be custom made). The braided line is also much thicker than the pipe, so routing could be an issue though I haven't looked.

Rich A

[Groover]

Good tip, as I'm very close (still debating if I should) to replacing the soft lines on my G5 - Which brake lines did you end up getting? I know of two sets out there, on top of the OEM ones which seem impossible to find as a complete set. I have Police bars.

[Rich A]

I got a full set from MG Cycle. The only problem I had is that the PO of my bike installed some bar backs, so the line from the front master cylinder to the splitter was about 1.5 inches too short.

Rich A

[Groover]

Thanks again, would the Police Bars type/set have worked in your case?

[Stevex]

Mine came apart with no hassle and the solid line now sits in a corner as I've de linked the brakes.
Can't see a problem as long as decent tools are used to do the job and even if I'd needed to take a dremel to that joint I'd have removed the solid and flexi pipe as one and done it on the bench, not covered my bike with swarf.

[Rich A]

Can't see a problem as long as decent tools are used to do the job and even if I'd needed to take a dremel to that joint I'd have removed the solid and flexi pipe as one and done it on the bench, not covered my bike with swarf.

I think the "right tool" is the flare wrench I referred to, and it often doesn't work, even after soaking the joint with penetrating oil. If you try that, and it doesn't work, you've damaged the male fitting on the hard pipe. Not good for re-assembly.

If you're not de-linking the brakes, which I wouldn't want to do, you'd have to unscrew the (2 ft? long) hard pipe from the splitter in the back (which is hard enough to get to, let alone get a wrench on, and then you'd run the risk of compromising that connection), cut the front line, and wriggle the thing out--taking care not to drip brake fluid all over--to do this on a bench. Then you'd have to re-install the hard pipe and re-attach it to the splitter, or as Mike suggested get a longer braided line (but that would probably add $50+ dollars for a custom line).

A few blasts of compressed air should take care of most of the swarf.

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I think MG has a brake line kit for the higher bars.

Rich A

[mtiberio]

I think that could be done, but it would be a long line, running all the way from the left front caliper to the splitter (and it would have to be custom made). The braided line is also much thicker than the pipe, so routing could be an issue though I haven't looked.

Rich A

custom made works, but you can get premads with AN-3 fittings on the end and then use which ever banjos (or direct threaded connectors) you want.

I get all my braided stainless brake line bits from J&P cycles under the metric cruiser section. You just need to measure the length you want (say banjo bolt to banjo bolt, and subtract 2" (for the fittings you will add on each end). Then buy that length and the fittings. No cutting of SS line, the AN-3 fittings are flared, and do not leak...

[rodekyll]

While I like the idea of having sections of the line be solid lines just for firmness, why not replace the entire line with braided stainless, and avoid all the intermediate junctions?

My reasoning on it is that hard lines are more heat resistant and shed heat better than soft ones, hold the bends better, and don't expand with pressure.

Also, there are places where soft line banjos and hard line pipe/flare fittings become very complicated to fit. 

All brake line joints are prone to leaking if you don't do the connections just right.  I got a bunch of pre-flared hard line for the trike project.  Most of them were leaky.  I discovered sloppy flares on them.  I reflared with my tools and think I have the leaks all gone.  It was a mess.  I was glad I'd powder coated the adjacent metals -- the brake fluid would have ruined a paint job.

ymmv, $0.02, etc.

[Noguzznoglory]

I would add that the price of Snap-on flare nut wrenches are well worth the investment. First set of flare nut wrenches I bought was SK and after the first time I used them I traded them to the Snap-on dealer. BIG DIFFERENCE!

[jbell]

Good tip, Rich, thanks.