Battery isolator

[Steph]

I have a slow battery drain. Has anybody installed a battery isolator on their motorcycle? I'm looking for suggestions on an easy set up for an isolator switch on the side of the bike. My 1year old oddysey battery is dead after 2weeks of no use...

[ibis1]

Don't you want to find the cause of the draw? That should not be too difficult.  :BEER:

[Steph]

Don't you want to find the cause of the draw? That should not be too difficult.  :BEER:

I tried, cleaned all the connectors etc. -I'm pathetic with electrics. Guess will need to buy a ohms meter and figure things out.

[atavar]

Two weeks of non use running a battery down is pretty normal for a vehicle with a computer.  If you use an isolator (disconnect switch) you will lose all your settings and and your computer will default every time you disconnect.

A much better solution is to get a battery maintainer.  You can get very decent ones on Amazon for less than you would spend putting in a disconnect switch properly and you will have a proper solution.

Here's one for $20 .  It will not charge a battery, that is not what it is intended for, but it will keep a battery charged. 

[Steph]

Two weeks of non use running a battery down is pretty normal for a vehicle with a computer.  If you use an isolator (disconnect switch) you will lose all your settings and and your computer will default every time you disconnect.

A much better solution is to get a battery maintainer.  You can get very decent ones on Amazon for less than you would spend putting in a disconnect switch properly and you will have a proper solution.

Not a lot of computer brain on a 2002 California Stone, so not worried about that.

[atavar]

A tiny bit of computer drain running down a battery in two weeks sounds about right to me.  i added a link to an example maintainer.

[Triple Jim]

I'm not tying to be nit-picky, but to shop for the right part, it's indeed a battery switch or battery disconnect.  A battery isolator is typically a couple of big diodes, and when connected to two batteries, it isolates them so one can be discharged without the other one being discharged, but they both get charged from a single alternator.

If you do suspect something is wrong and draining the battery, you can remove the ground cable(s) from the battery, keeping them connected to each other, and reconnect them through an ammeter (current meter).  Don't have anything turned on, and you'll read the current that's draining the battery.  By disconnecting one thing at a time, you can find out the amount of current that each one is drawing from the battery.

[atavar]

If your bike is parked where there are no outlets for a maintainer there are also solar versions for cheap.

[rodekyll]

Not a lot of computer brain on a 2002 California Stone, so not worried about that.

+1

I have used physical disconnects on both of my 15M machines forever.  It's nice to walk up to the bike after 8 months, toggle the disconnect, and start the engine.  The computer is too damn dumb to object.

The way I do it is with a hi-amp (one bike has a 75a and the other has a 150a) marine grade, resettable breaker.  The breaker sets up on the ground side.  You gather all of the existing ground wires to the 1/4" load post on the breaker and a strap from the other side (I used copper plumber's tape) to the battery.  Optional would be to substitute a shunt for the plumber's tape and add an amp meter to your dash.

The disconnect works like a simple switch with an added advantage -- it will act like a fuse if it senses a dead short of something high amp, like the alternator, starter, or a main wire.  To operate normally, there is a red button that opens the circuit and pops out a little lever.  Push the button and the bike goes dead and dark.  Push the reset lever and you're good to go.

Mine are hidden and even if you saw one you wouldn't know what it was there for.  It's a very good security measure.  I've told people that if they could start the bike in 90sec, they could have it.  For some reason there have been few takers on my '76, period-correct rat bagger.  I've never figured that one out.   ???  ::)  The few that have tried gave up before the 90sec were up.  No keyhole and no switches making anything light up is an effective deterrent.

[LaMojo]

More than likely, the battery has a weak cell causing the problem. The sure way to check battery problem issues is by disconnecting all terminations on one terminal and let it sit for awhile (two weeks?) then check the voltage.  You may can have it load tested but the weak cell may not show up if the cell is slightly below par but enough to cause a draw down over a long period of time.

[Steph]

More than likely, the battery has a weak cell causing the problem. The sure way to check battery problem issues is by disconnecting all terminations on one terminal and let it sit for awhile (two weeks?) then check the voltage.  You may can have it load tested but the weak cell may not show up if the cell is slightly below par but enough to cause a draw down over a long period of time.

Yes I thought of doing that. I'm expecting the oddysey battery to be alright

[Steph]

+1

I have used physical disconnects on both of my 15M machines forever.  It's nice to walk up to the bike after 8 months, toggle the disconnect, and start the engine.  The computer is too damn dumb to object.

The way I do it is with a hi-amp (one bike has a 75a and the other has a 150a) marine grade, resettable breaker.  The breaker sets up on the ground side.  You gather all of the existing ground wires to the 1/4" load post on the breaker and a strap from the other side (I used copper plumber's tape) to the battery.  Optional would be to substitute a shunt for the plumber's tape and add an amp meter to your dash.

The disconnect works like a simple switch with an added advantage -- it will act like a fuse if it senses a dead short of something high amp, like the alternator, starter, or a main wire.  To operate normally, there is a red button that opens the circuit and pops out a little lever.  Push the button and the bike goes dead and dark.  Push the reset lever and you're good to go.

Mine are hidden and even if you saw one you wouldn't know what it was there for.  It's a very good security measure.  I've told people that if they could start the bike in 90sec, they could have it.  For some reason there have been few takers on my '76, period-correct rat bagger.  I've never figured that one out.   ???  ::)  The few that have tried gave up before the 90sec were up.  No keyhole and no switches making anything light up is an effective deterrent.

This is what I'm looking for. Where did you get the 'red button' switch?

[rodekyll]

I got it from my local marine supply -- my local go-to for good grade hose and wiring stuff. 

Here's a random example -- mine have the posts on the opposite side from the buttons and are heavier amperage. 

http://www.amazon.com/SURFACE-MOUNT-DC-BREAKER-40A/dp/B00OKIBCDW/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1431212041&sr=8-22&keywords=resettable+marine+breaker

This will get you there too, but the price is the only advantage.  Otherwise it's bulky and you need somewhere to stash the key:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Disconnect-Master-Kill-Switch-Cut-Off-MARINE-RV-with-Quick-REMOVABLE-Key-/271576777350?hash=item3f3b3cc286&vxp=mtr

[Steph]

I got it from my local marine supply -- my local go-to for good grade hose and wiring stuff. 

Here's a random example -- mine have the posts on the opposite side from the buttons and are heavier amperage. 

http://www.amazon.com/SURFACE-MOUNT-DC-BREAKER-40A/dp/B00OKIBCDW/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1431212041&sr=8-22&keywords=resettable+marine+breaker

This will get you there too, but the price is the only advantage.  Otherwise it's bulky and you need somewhere to stash the key:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Disconnect-Master-Kill-Switch-Cut-Off-MARINE-RV-with-Quick-REMOVABLE-Key-/271576777350?hash=item3f3b3cc286&vxp=mtr

Thanks
I've seen the cheap one before, the more expensive is of interest.

[Markcarovilli]

Steph

I'm thinking your Stone is not too different than my 2000 Bassa with an Odyssey battery also.  Mine just sat for 6 months over the winter with no prep of any kind.  Fired right up last week without an issue.  So may be battery?

Mark

[ibis1]

Measure the current draw. Modern bikes should not have excessive draw and should be able to sit for extended periods and start with no problem. If your bike has more than 15 to 20 millamps send me an email and I will direct you with a path to isolate the problem. :BEER:

[canuguzzi]

WirthCo 20090 Battery Doctor 75 Amp/100 Amp Battery Isolator

if you have room under the seat. Mine goes to an extra battery I put in the tail trunk when on long trips.

If your battery went dead after just 2 weeks of sitting, something is wrong, either the battery or you have a current drain somewhere.

The instructions will explain how to set it up so that the spare remains charged. No use carrying around an extra that when you need it, is also dead.

The neat thing about this one (tried several) is that it uses a single master wire so getting it hooked up is a breeze.

You don't have to match batteries either. Just to get your bike started you can use a smaller second battery.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Modern bikes should not have excessive draw and should be able to sit for extended periods and start with no problem.

 :+1 Something wrong if a battery is dead in two weeks. Either the battery is bad, or there is parasitic drain that needs to be found.

[canuck750]

I have a battery disconnect switch on my Eldorado, the lever of the switch site just under the bottom of the left hand side cover, its a big clunky thing but it does the job.



I had a heck of time finding a slow drain, it was a faulty alternator diode (alternator upgrade replaces the big old generator), I gave up for a while, installed the switch and then with help from this site I traced the drain to the alternator.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Do you have a GPS adapter wired up, they will run the battery flat even if the GPS itself is unplugged.

Buying a multimeter and learning to use it is probably cheaper than an isolator.

[Steph]

There are no electrical 'extras' on the bike. No GPS, alarm or even digital clock!
I will buy a ohmmeter and figure out how to use it. Pulling the main fuse in and out is not an option. I just want to get up and go (to work) , not fiddle with side panel screws and fuses in the morning.
I have cleaned all the connectors this weekend, hopefully that should help.
I've looked at 'Eric the car guy' YouTube video on fixing parasite drains  with an ohmmeter  & looks pretty straight forward. Just need to find the time. I have a battery tender but a 'battery disconnect switch' can be a quick fix until then.
I realise that something is not right for a battery to go flat after two weeks -battery or current drain.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Measuring tiny currents with a multimeter can be tricky, if you put too much current through it the internal fuse blows and the meter reads zero so you think it's fine but it's not.

If you have a 12 Volt single LED lamp, remove the battery ground and wire the lamp between chassis and battery negative, turn the key on the LED will be full brightness (if it doesn't light you need to switch the wires)

Turn the key Off, the LED should go out, if it stays on at all that's too much leakage
Lamp is dim ~ 5 milliamps
Lamp is bright 10 - 15 milliamps

[Triple Jim]

If you have a 12 Volt single LED lamp, remove the battery ground and wire the lamp between chassis and battery negative, turn the key on the LED will be full brightness (if it doesn't light you need to switch the wires)

Neat idea, Roy.

[canuguzzi]

If your battery has gone completely dead, it is toast. There are plenty of folks who say a starting battery having gone dead can be resurrected. Fine if you don't need to depend on it for daily transportation or have a quick means of getting something a different way but more likely, that battery is going to leave you stranded. You can load test them all you want and it means diddly when you're the one sitting at the side of the road or after work can't ride home.

A switch will help in the short run if the battery is good, giving you time to hunt down a parasitic drain but what good will it do if the battery is at fault? Now you have two problems, a bad battery and still don't know if there is a parasitic drain that caused the problem in the first place.

New battery, switch if you need it and then hunt for parasitic drains. If none exist, battery was bad. If they do exist, fix it and continue life.