Author Topic: V7 Stone water in swingarm (Read 12764 times)

Zinfan · « **on:** June 05, 2015, 08:55:41 PM »

Rode in a short but heavy rainstorm yesterday and by chance I was doing a rear tire change today and took off the final drive to grease the splines. When the pumpkin came off I had about 1/4 cup of water pour out of the swingarm. The rubber boot looks ok and the four bolts holding the pumpkin onto the swingarm were snug (not overly tight but not loose at all). I shone a flashlight up the swingarm and didn't see any evidence of water higher up the arm or on the shaft at all leading me to believe it may have entered the swingarm at the pumpkin flange. Is this normal behavior? I changed the transmission oil (both the gearbox and final drive) and didn't see any sign that water had gotten into the oil.

fotoguzzi · « **Reply #1 on:** June 05, 2015, 09:17:16 PM »

:shocked:yikes, not normal, I might get alarmed, over time that could be a serious corrosion issue.

I have no idea as to how it got there.

balvenie · « **Reply #2 on:** June 05, 2015, 11:19:10 PM »

Could it have got in past the rubber boot?

Vasco DG · « **Reply #3 on:** June 06, 2015, 12:20:55 AM »

My guess would be it would have to have been via the boot. At least with the smallblocks the front of the Bevelbox is sealed so the water can't get into the box itself.

Pete

sib · « **Reply #4 on:** June 06, 2015, 07:09:29 AM »

There aren't many places where so much water can enter the swing arm, but one of them is the hole in the top of the cross piece that is supposed to be sealed by a plastic plug, part number GU03922280. This can be easily seen in the parts manual. I can imagine that if the plug is missing, water from a heavy storm could enter the hole and collect in the swing arm.

Zinfan · « **Reply #5 on:** June 06, 2015, 07:18:09 AM »

Thanks for the replies, I'll check it out again.

sign216 · « **Reply #6 on:** June 06, 2015, 08:19:57 AM »

Interesting. I don't recall this being a common problem, so if you find the cause please post.

Cam3512 · « **Reply #7 on:** June 06, 2015, 10:41:16 AM »

Quote from: Zinfan on June 06, 2015, 07:18:09 AM

Thanks for the replies, I'll check it out again.

I never knew that plug existed. Looked at mine, amd there it is!

Is your plug in place?

Zinfan · « **Reply #8 on:** June 06, 2015, 08:28:46 PM »

Plug is still in place. Can't see any damage to the boot but I'm a long way from home so can't get it on a lift right now. At least the chances it will rain in California are slim.

Penderic · « **Reply #9 on:** June 06, 2015, 09:07:09 PM »

Zinfan · « **Reply #10 on:** July 06, 2015, 11:17:12 PM »

Well revisiting this topic, I can't see any damage to the rubber boot but if I loosen the hose clamp do you think I will be able to rotate the boot for a better look? I guess no harm in trying that eh? Anyways if I need to pull the swingarm how difficult would you say it is?

I have experience in pulling the rear wheel and bevel box so what more would be needed to get the swingarm off? Removal of the right side shock (I usually loosen up the left side shock when pulling the rear wheel)

The bike in the midst of my first tire change

So in order to remove the swingarm I would need to remove the hose clamp on the boot, the nuts (#14 on drawing) and pins (#12) on both sides and pull the arm off? Assuming of course I've made sure no other hoses, brake lines etc.. are attached in some way to the swingarm.

Any handy hints or sage advice? Reassembly going to drive me to the asylum? I can get a new boot from MG Cycle for $12 or so.

SED · « **Reply #11 on:** July 06, 2015, 11:53:37 PM »

With the '81 Monza I pull the top shock mounts, the two caliper bolts (caliper is on the other side on the new V-7) and the two swing arm pivots. Loosen the clamps on the boot and wheel the swingarm out from under the back of the bike. The drive shaft slips off the transmission splines. The wheel and bevelbox stay attached the swingarm.

Not sure if this will work just like this on the new V-7, but it should give you some ideas.

Zinfan · « **Reply #12 on:** July 07, 2015, 12:54:11 AM »

Quote from: SED on July 06, 2015, 11:53:37 PM

With the '81 Monza I pull the top shock mounts, the two caliper bolts (caliper is on the other side on the new V-7) and the two swing arm pivots. Loosen the clamps on the boot and wheel the swingarm out from under the back of the bike. The drive shaft slips off the transmission splines. The wheel and bevelbox stay attached the swingarm.

Not sure if this will work just like this on the new V-7, but it should give you some ideas.

Ahh sounds like a cool way to do it. I'm not sure that the rear fender will allow the whole swingarm with wheel attached to clear it, it would make a bit quicker removal though. Thanks!!

steamdriven NZ · « **Reply #13 on:** July 07, 2015, 03:45:59 AM »

Circlip 9 on the parts page from memory needs to be INSIDE the boot (sits in a groove) to secure the boot to the swingarm by expanding. If it has not been fitted properly or isn't there, water could be driven in past the boot relatively easily.
Again from memory, but pretty sure that's how it lives.

Note shim 13 on the pin, make sure it's there when you put it all back in! The threaded portion of the pins should protrude equal amounts beyond the swingarm sides, just wind one in one out until you get them equal. They don't have to be cranked on, just snug so there is no side play.

Kev.

Chuck in Indiana · « **Reply #14 on:** July 07, 2015, 07:25:21 AM »

^^^^^^
This.

Zinfan · « **Reply #15 on:** July 07, 2015, 03:59:00 PM »

Hold my beer I'm going in!!!

Right side thread exposure

Left side thread exposure

Who wants to make a wish?

Looking into the boot

The rust spot is on the bottom as you might expect with it sitting in water, not sure it that is the point the water got in though.

The clip was in place

The rubber is flipped up just past the clip but I'm not sure that would cause the leakage, the clip should have sealed it?

The shaft just below the u-joint

Damn! Not sure how serious this is, looks to be surface rust. Removable without destroying the shaft? Methods?

Looking at the transmission, looks fine, no rust

So how do I get that #9 clip out without destroying the boot? It looks like I'd have to us a sharp instrument to pry under the clip to force it out of the groove but that would probably destroy the boot. Would like to see if the boot itself was damaged before I got at it.

Chuck in Indiana · « **Reply #16 on:** July 07, 2015, 04:05:18 PM »

It'll pop right out using a screwdriver, or better yet, a cotter pin puller. I documented this stuff in the Lario rehab thread.

Zinfan · « **Reply #17 on:** July 07, 2015, 04:15:07 PM »

Quote from: Chuck in Indiana on July 07, 2015, 04:05:18 PM

It'll pop right out using a screwdriver, or better yet, a cotter pin puller. I documented this stuff in the Lario rehab thread.

I'll go look that up. Thanks Chuck. I think it's a bit important because so far I can't see why the boot failed.

Zinfan · « **Reply #18 on:** July 07, 2015, 05:15:23 PM »

Well well well, time for a new boot I guess. This was located about 11 o'clock if you were looking towards the back of the bike. Hard to see with the boot off the bike but I guess when installed the boot stretched a bit and opened the hole up that is why I'm pulling the boot apart in the photo.

kevdog3019 · « **Reply #19 on:** July 07, 2015, 05:51:50 PM »

Yahtzee!! Good find. I think that had something to do with it.

Didn't look like much got in there but enough to make for humidity and small amount of settling. You could simply take a wire brush to the shaft and get that rust off. Should be good to go after a new boot. Chalk it up to learning something.

malik · « **Reply #20 on:** July 07, 2015, 06:24:20 PM »

From the photo it doesn't look as if there's grease on the shaft. Bone dry with rust. Happy you caught it before it became like mine did - rust all the way to the pinion, which then caught & deformed, resulting in "a failure to proceed". A new boot is a lot cheaper than a new shaft. Well done!

Mal

Zinfan · « **Reply #21 on:** July 07, 2015, 07:27:27 PM »

Quote from: malik on July 07, 2015, 06:24:20 PM

From the photo it doesn't look as if there's grease on the shaft. Bone dry with rust. Happy you caught it before it became like mine did - rust all the way to the pinion, which then caught & deformed, resulting in "a failure to proceed". A new boot is a lot cheaper than a new shaft. Well done!

Mal

Got my spline grease all ready to goop up the whole thing once the boot arrives. I agree there wasn't much grease on the shaft or splines, not bone dry either but just a smidge.
Real happy that the job wasn't quite as bad as I forecast for myself but I still have to put it back together.

Chuck in Indiana · « **Reply #22 on:** July 07, 2015, 08:33:04 PM »

Small blocks are easy. Attaboy...rust never sleeps.

Zinfan · « **Reply #23 on:** July 10, 2015, 09:49:13 PM »

New boot has arrived so...

A bit of metal polish and a nylon scratch pad took care of the rust on the shaft

The split ring is pretty strong and I didn't have anything that looked like it would help install the ring without tearing the boot so I used a ziptie to squeeze the ring together

Here is the ring installed. I just snipped the zip tie and wiggled the tie out being careful to not disturb the rubber. It seemed to work well.

I probably spent the most time on getting the rubber boot over the transmission end of the housing and getting the hose clamp installed. What a pain that was but I have experience at it now.

All back together and the test ride did not leave me stranded so that is a plus.

Well that was an adventure but I hope that I'm at the end of it now and with a tight rear end to boot!

kevdog3019 · « **Reply #24 on:** July 10, 2015, 10:03:21 PM »

Great job and something learned.

Now tell me about that exhaust?

Zinfan · « **Reply #25 on:** July 10, 2015, 10:17:52 PM »

Quote from: kevdog3019 on July 10, 2015, 10:03:21 PM

Great job and something learned.
Now tell me about that exhaust?

GuzziTech 2:2 stainless steel

zokn · « **Reply #26 on:** May 05, 2016, 09:35:42 AM »

I have the same problem: water and rust in the shaft housing. In my case, the rubber boot was torn near the points of the retaining spring. With 10,000 km on my 2013 V7 Stone, I suspect a poor initial installation, but who knows for sure?

I've ordered a new boot; I'll clean up the bits; and I'll put it all back together again. I would recommend an inspection of this area. I was doing this to grease the splits since I was changing the rear tire. I'm glad I caught the rust before it got worse.

Regards,

Stephen