Author Topic: Latest map for 8V Norge (Read 12632 times)

Vasco DG · « **Reply #30 on:** June 21, 2015, 11:28:59 PM »

Sorry, four stroke engine should fire every second revolution of the crank if it's firing intermittently it may go through two or more cycles before you actually get a power stroke and ignition.

Can you take a few pics of the throttle stop screws, (Both sides.) and the ball joints on the linkage rod. Also just see if a 3mm Allen key will fit into the stop screws. Don't try and move them. Just see if one will fit in. If one fits in the LH stop screw but not in the right we're probably going to be looking into this a bit deeper.

In my experience as long as stuff hasn't been buggered about with all bikes respond in a very similar fashion to re-mapping, obviously with the same, correct, map.) any differences can usually be fine tuned by adding or shortening a few, very few, microseconds of fuel using the CO trim function but if someone with an essentially similar bike is having radically different outcomes there is usually either a *Physical* cause or there is something wrong in the tune.

Pete

Waltr · « **Reply #31 on:** June 22, 2015, 12:23:42 AM »

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=61267.0

Just read this and ordered the NGK caps. Last time I adjusted throttle body balance was last September, still when I can make time I will get on it and check and get the pictures.

I rode last Sunday and got caught in a tremendous downpour. Cant say it was doing the same thing but I remember the throttle at low speed seemed to be very abrupt. I noticed this because shortly after the rain cleared I pulled into a roadside BBQ to pick up a few chicken dinners for the wife and I and the parking lot was gravel and it seemed very difficult to be smooth with the throttle. Did not think much of it then because I had been on the bike for 9 hours and a little spent. The next time I started the bike was after I loaded the new map.

Waltr · « **Reply #32 on:** June 22, 2015, 12:52:32 AM »

Pete just reread your last post and I appreciate your involvement. I do not believe I touched the throttle stop screw but to say I am incapable of such would be a lie. Just like the last time I got stopped for a speeding ticket I appeared in court and stated that I have no doubt the speed you recorded is correct, but, I had no intention to be going that fast I simply was not paying attention. The Magistrate let me go with a reduced fine and no points on my license.

Waltr · « **Reply #33 on:** June 22, 2015, 08:19:35 AM »

Pulled the plug caps and wires, both side measured 4.9 - 4.95 K. So do not think there is a problem there. As usual both new plugs have bone white center insulators. Time to pull off the plastic.

Waltr · « **Reply #34 on:** June 22, 2015, 12:56:59 PM »

OK! Reset valves to a nice snug feel 008. ex and 006. in. The last time I did it I may have left them a little on the loose side of OK. Readjusted throttle free play, probably a little tight. Reset TPS with Guzzidiag. Hooked up the Carbmate balancer and was off a little at idle and did need to readjust the balance at high speed. Reset TPS and went back over idle--needed a tweek and high speed good. Reset tps.

Loaded latest map, cleared learning parameters.

Pete I took pictures and loaded them on photobucket but they are blurry, at least the ones close up on the throttle bodies. The yellow paint is undisturbed on the sacred screw and the same on the linkage.

I changed all the transmission and CARC fluid while at it.

So if you are waiting to here it still runs like shit well. Wait no more. at least warm this bike runs like a champ. Hit the key and fires with little oomph and settles in a few seconds. I have not ridden it yet, Taking a break. I need to put the plastic back on but while everything is off thought I would clean her up a bit.
Nothing was grossley out except the valves may have been on the loose side. But everything did need attention.. I am sorry for highjacking this thread but now I may be able to better evaluate.

Thanks Pete.
http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/r526/wroman214/027_zpsoxywnz2i.jpg
http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/r526/wroman214/023_zpsyi9pl1ds.jpg
http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/r526/wroman214/021_zpsovhnmexq.jpg

Vasco DG · « **Reply #35 on:** June 22, 2015, 02:10:34 PM »

When setting the high speed balance you do close both the air bleeds?

Pete

Waltr · « **Reply #36 on:** June 22, 2015, 03:43:38 PM »

No, I always adjusted the idle first the high speed. Doh! Have I been doing that backwards? I did 1) the throttle cable, 2) idle bleed 3) high speed, in that order. If I need to reverse the last 2 steps I will, just not today.

I did do a final check of idle balance after the high speed and it was spot on.

Just came back from a road test (4 miles) and it is smooooth. Been at this all day. Better off idle running than I can remember.

Vasco DG · « **Reply #37 on:** June 22, 2015, 04:45:06 PM »

Close both air bleeds.

Adjust high speed balance using the screw on the bell crank on the LH throttle body.

Kill motor.

Re-set TPS.

Restart engine.

Whichever side has the highest manifold depression open the air bleed to achive idle balance.

Pete

Waltr · « **Reply #38 on:** June 22, 2015, 05:43:11 PM »

Roger Captain! I just got done with the lawn though and I am going for a ride. It is hot as snot right now and I am not crawling around on the the ground and taking the plastic off again. Will have to wait for the AM and the sun is away from the garage door.

Come to think of it that is the way I did it the first time out and I came to understand the right side idle bleed was the one that would need to be opened I just did the two in reverse.

Lazy, you know.

MLR · « **Reply #39 on:** June 23, 2015, 08:33:05 PM »

Hi Pete. I know the steps you described are the correct method for a TB balance, I was just hoping you could elaborate a bit. If the air bleed screws only effect the balance at idle, why do you need to close them before you adjust the high speed balance? Why kill the motor before you reset TPS? Should you recheck high speed balance after you complete the process? If it is off after adjusting the air bleed screw what does this indicate?

Close both air bleeds.

Adjust high speed balance using the screw on the bell crank on the LH throttle body.

Kill motor.

Re-set TPS.

Restart engine.

Whichever side has the highest manifold depression open the air bleed to achive idle balance.

Vasco DG · « **Reply #40 on:** June 23, 2015, 08:40:52 PM »

Quote from: MLR on June 23, 2015, 08:33:05 PM

Hi Pete. I know the steps you described are the correct method for a TB balance, I was just hoping you could elaborate a bit. If the air bleed screws only effect the balance at idle, why do you need to close them before you adjust the high speed balance? Why kill the motor before you reset TPS? Should you recheck high speed balance after you complete the process? If it is off after adjusting the air bleed screw what does this indicate?

The air bleeds will have an effect, t will just be very minor but it's good practice to close them.

Why kill the motor? Because you can't re-calibrate the TOS with the engine running!

Some people reckon that if you repeat the process a few times the balance will remain closer throughout the throttle opening range. I can't see why this would be the case and to my mind it's a bit too Uber-anal! I just perform the steps as listed and my bike is super-smooth and pulls like a freight train. I can't see any point in fart-arseing about trying to get it clinically perfect.

Pete

Waltr · « **Reply #41 on:** June 23, 2015, 11:13:27 PM »

Well got home from work and pulled the plastic on the Norge once again. And lets just say I fixed the bike by adjusting it correctly. I feel like I should wear one of those signs that pet owners make there pets wear and take there pictures. Mine should include "Lefty Loosey - Righty Tighty. I am going to leave it there.

Thanks Pete.

Vasco DG · « **Reply #42 on:** June 24, 2015, 02:05:29 AM »

All good. How do you find the map?

Pete

Waltr · « **Reply #43 on:** June 24, 2015, 05:56:08 AM »

Have not ridden yet, did not finish up until late. Starts and idles better. Will report back.

Waltr · « **Reply #44 on:** June 25, 2015, 01:53:16 PM »

A little over a hundred miles on the map so far. Quite a difference. Very smooth power delivery. Torque everywhere and very deceiving. Of all the motorcycles I have owned since 1976 I would say the best bike engine and transmission combo belonged to my BMW K1300LT. The bike was not my favorite but the engine and gearing were perfect. The Norge with this map is right there, about as perfect as I could imagine. Great Job!

Now if this rain would stop I would like to do ride up to the Thousand Islands and back. Eager to get out and do a long highway run to get a feeling for the new Matris forks and shock and this new map.

beetle · « **Reply #45 on:** June 25, 2015, 04:51:00 PM »

Good work Walt.

Waltr · « **Reply #46 on:** July 09, 2015, 08:45:59 PM »

Well just thought I would report. Since last posting I have logged around 1,400 to 1,500 miles and the bike is about where I left it after 100 miles on the new map. Pretty well pleased and fuel mileage and power is good.
I rode up to Lake George this week and stayed the night and got a high of 46 mpg and low of 43 mpg. All I can say is the 43 mpg was after filling up twice on the NY Thruway ( rt 87) with high test Sunoco. Bike did not like it. Coming back I filled up at a Stewart's and I could tell immediately everything was better.

One observation more than anything else, I regapped the Nippondenso Iridium plugs to .025 in (.6mm) and these are in the bike now. With them the bike has a different idle than with the stock twin ground electrode plugs, The Denso's have a more of a lope or power pulse at idle and the bike feels stronger but not nearly as smooth. I check the gaps on the stock plugs and they are new and measure .030 (.7 mm). My initial impression is the 12,000 mile regapped Denso's run better, with the stock plugs it seems as if the bike runs a little rich. I am not saying it runs rich but in comparison that is what it feels like. The other maps I have tried showed none of these differences in plugs.

All in all a happy camper, thanks again Pete and Beetle for all your help.

Walt

MGrego · « **Reply #47 on:** June 19, 2016, 06:50:12 PM »

Finally got around to installing map version 7286 on the '12 Norge - All good except the idle, very rough kept wanting to die. I have an aftermarket Agostini exhaust, and after some searching and reading here, ended up adjusting the CO trim to +10. - Problem solved, all is well -- if the weather isn't crazy hot next weekend I'll take it out for a proper trial run - Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this topic, and especially the guys in Australia for giving us the tools and knowledge to make it happen !

beetle · « **Reply #48 on:** June 19, 2016, 07:52:58 PM »

Not surprising, given the map was made for the stock exhaust.

If you feel there are any little areas you think might need tweaking, let me know and I'll tweak.

MGrego · « **Reply #49 on:** June 27, 2016, 01:56:59 PM »

Here is a 1000 mile report on Norge map 7286 (Loaded on my 2012 rollerized GT8V with an Agostini pipe and a canisterectomy )

The Good
1. Improved gas mileage, averaging 47 mpg
2. Decreased popping on deceleration
3. Smooth power deliver across all RPMs
4. Smooth idle

The Bad
1. Rough cold start, have to give some throttle to avoid dying for the first few seconds. ( Once the bike is warmed up, fires right up without touching the throttle. )

The Weird
1. Experiencing the "hanging idle", meaning when I let off the throttle and pull the clutch, there is a slight delay before the RPMs drop back down to idle. This doesn't really worry me too much, just thought I'd report it.

Overall my experience with this map is very positive. I may tinker with the CO setting a bit more to see if I can improve the cold start issue....currently at +10.

Thanks again !

beetle · « **Reply #50 on:** June 27, 2016, 06:14:56 PM »

I will modify the map based on your feedback and get back to you.

News:

Author Topic: Latest map for 8V Norge (Read 12632 times)

Vasco DG

Vasco DG

Vasco DG

Vasco DG

Vasco DG

beetle

beetle

beetle